1901 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKERJ 
io3 
>f TALK ABOUT JAPAN PLUMS. 
The Essential Principles Boiled Down. 
CONDENSED WISDOM.—Fifteen years’ experience 
and time; money and thought spent watching and 
studying trees on plum roots or peach roots, in rich 
land, poor land, big holes, little holes; effect of se¬ 
vere thinning, no thinning, pruning, fertilizers, frost; 
trying to raise a profitable plum; boil down to a page 
or less for the benefit of the man with the plum fever. 
The Editor of The R. N.-Y. does not ask much! First 
let me say to him who would invest money in Japan 
plums, think twice before investing capital which can 
be used at a profit with your present crops, for of all 
the fruits I raise plums pay the least. Yet there may 
be locations where they v.ill prove a profitable ven¬ 
ture, and every home should have a few. Learn to 
know a (jood plum, with a determination to raise it, 
for of all neglected cultivated fruits no fruit so poor, 
so worthless, which no market wants, can be so easily 
raised as .Japan plums. 
SOIL AND LOCATION.—They will grow on any soil 
not too wet, and in almost any location. But best 
results can be obtained by choosing a high, sunny, 
fairly dry location, with good frost di-ainage; good 
corn land we in the East might call it. Yet I have 
had better success with a poor sandy or gravel soil 
by fertilizing to meet the needs of the tree, than in 
a moist and I'ich one. A high location is a protection 
from Spring frosts, less danger from winterkilling, for 
with our changeable New England climate (13 below 
zero January 20, 7 A. M.; 41 above January 21) a lo¬ 
cation subject to 20 below zero has reached the danger 
point for successful plum culture; 15 below and a sud¬ 
den change may cause loss. Location 
counts for him on the border line of suc¬ 
cessful plum growing. 
TREES.—Choose good one-year trees 
four to five feet, budded upon peach 
stock unless by chance trees might be 
obtained budded upon Japan plum seed¬ 
lings. Do not accept older trees as a 
gift. Set 13 to 16 feet apart; the poorer 
the land nearer the tree; this distance 
for those who will adopt severe prun¬ 
ing. h'’or the grower who lets his trees 
grow, and takes what he can get, 20 feet 
may be near enough. On poor sandy or 
gravelly soil we have found large holes 
18 inches to two feet deep, filled with 
top soil, a profitable investment. Set 
trees so that when the ground is level 
the plum wood shall be two to four 
inches under ground; the drier the land 
the deeper the tree. I might say right 
here that for the last 10 years we have 
set all trees deeper than recommended 
by the books. The tree stands firmer, 
is less liable to damage by wind, and in 
a measure grows upon its own roots. 
Trees of Abundance-Wickson type (up¬ 
right growers) should be cut back for 
low tops 12 to 18 inches high; spread¬ 
ing varieties (Burbank type) two to 
three feet. 
CULTIVATION.—Cultivate all the 
ground as early as it can be put into 
mellow condition. The man with the 
small orchard, who can raise at a profit crops which 
do not shade the trees (early potatoes, berries, etc.), 
can for the first two years more cheaply care for his 
orchard this way than any other. I never yet saw a 
young orchard injured by doing so. But do not plant 
small fruits in a plum orchard. We prefer to culti¬ 
vate only the trees, and grow a humus crop to plow 
under. Yes, grow something, if only weeds and Witch 
grass. Then when trees begin to bear we reverse the 
cultivation; cultivate between the trees and allow a 
sod, what the plow and Cutaway harrow do not de¬ 
stroy, to grow around the trees. The trees are less 
liable to damage by winds, and of more importance 
to us; the base of tree is less liable to damage from 
freezing. 
PRUNING; THINNING.—First grow the tree; this 
will require good judgment, as young trees require 
thinning of surplus branches, cutting back of pre¬ 
vious season’s growth, so as to form a fairly open, 
well-balanced top. When tree is large enough to bear 
fair crops of fruit severe pruning is adopted if tree is 
in proper shape. All of the previous season’s growth 
is cut back to three to six inches, and surplus growth 
is cut out entirely, and as the trees grow older, all 
growth may be cut back to two or three inches. With 
this method and thinning of fruit we have been able 
to raise a crop every season. Japan plums must be 
thinned. After hiring 250 heavily-laden trees thinned 
by hand at a cost of nearly all the profits, and the 
loss of a large proportion of our large (two to 2^ 
inches in diameter) Burbanks by cracking, we have 
adopted a medium course. Our severe pruning has 
done a large part of the thinning. Then as fruit be¬ 
gins to grow we practice shaking. Don’t get a lazy 
man for this job, but a strong, active one, for the 
tree should not be pushed back and forth, but given a 
quick, sharp jerk. Then after fruit is through drop¬ 
ping, trees are gone over by hand with the aid of more 
shaking, but the job is not done so nicely that no 
two plums may touch; yet as a rule we do not intend 
that they shall do so. If black rot appears this is 
picked by hand, and if much appears is done every 
day. We find this very important. 
FERTILIZERS.—Not too much nitrogen, a fair 
amount of phosphoric acid, and plenty of potash; the 
average grower is in little danger using too much of 
the latter, especially if the sulphate is used. We find 
the double sulphate of potash and magnesia very use¬ 
ful at least part of the time. Use nitrate of soda only 
to keep the trees in a healthy condition, for many a 
yellow, half-starved tree may be brought back to a 
life of usefulness if horse power and perhaps a small 
amount of elbow grease is used as a help to the nitrate 
of soda. From a business standpoint it does not pay 
to doctor a sick tree. Yet it is better not to lose one’s 
head over the yellows talk, and perhaps do more dam¬ 
age than the disease itself. Study your own condi¬ 
tions, and draw correct conclusions from your own 
experience, and ideas of value from that of others. Do 
not expect to learn it all from them, but attend strict¬ 
ly to business, give good care to your trees, and they 
may return you a small margin of profit. 
Massachusetts. ii. o. mead. 
NOTES ON CEMENT MIXING. 
1 have done an immense amount of cement work, 
and have also had an extensive experience in building. 
and my experience has taught me, with much bitter¬ 
ness, the fact that masons and carpenters are a nar¬ 
row, contracted, one-idea class. They all keep in the 
same rut, and it takes a mighty sight of crowding 
even to get one of them out of it. Now anyone of 
fairly good sense can make a splendid sidewalk or 
barn floor with three inches of grout and three-quar¬ 
ters of an inch of top coat. These points only are 
necessary, and they are absolutely so; A firm, solid 
foundation, good fresh cement thoroughly mixed with 
gravel or sharp sand; the grout must be solidly 
tamped and the top coat must be put on the grouting 
within a few hours. It is best to do it at once. Two 
hundred pounds (one-half barrel) of Portland cement 
to 100 heaping shovelfuls of good gravel is ample for 
the first, or foundation coat, and three inches is am¬ 
ple of thickness. To save material this should be laid 
evenly, by gauge, over an even foundation. The top 
coat should be two parts of sharp screened sand to 
one of cement, and troweled down perfectly smooth, 
leaving not a single hole, however minute, by which 
water may reach the foundation and freeze there. It 
is generally more convenient to put the top coat on 
as the operator proceeds, and best that it is done then, 
but protected from the sun one can wait 24 hours be¬ 
fore applying it. An inch coat of earth or sand should 
be applied as soon as the top coat has set or hardened 
enough to prevent the earth sticking to it, and it is 
best that this dirt or sand should remain there a 
week. This is done that it may dir slowly and even¬ 
ly. Masons will tell you to use five to one, even three 
to one for grouting, and half and half and five to 
three for top co8.t, but I know (hat nine to one (with 
plenty of elbow grease) for grouting will last forever. 
If the operator has more time than money, screen 
your gravel, use nine to one, mix it thoroughly, and 
then mix it a little more, and tamp it in the same 
manner. Cement sidewalks laid on the principal 
street of this city 30 years ago are just as good as 
when laid, showing absolutely no wear whatever. A 
cement wall can be made for one-half the cost of a 
stone wall; it will exclude all dampness, and last for¬ 
ever. Any man of sense can make it, too. In all my 
experience in building I have never found but one 
carpenter who knew how to hang a door, and I have 
never known a mason who knew how to top out a 
chimney. Stand over a mason and you can make him 
draw in the top of a chimney to a little more than 
half the size of its flue, but he’ll never do it other¬ 
wise, and yet this is the only way a chimney should 
be topped. Your rule for cement floor on page 53 
would make it cost four times more than necessary, 
and sand or earth is less expensive than hay and 10 
times better, too. We make here street crossings of 
cement, which stand the heaviest traffic; also plain 
and ornamental window sills and caps, water tables 
and many other things. s. e. B.\nnY. 
Indiana. 
SAND OR WINTER VETCH. 
Of this genus of legumes there are numbers of 
species, but few of them have succeeded here in this 
country. The particular one to which I would call 
special attention (Hairy vetch, Vicia villosa) is a na¬ 
tive of Russia, and was introduced into this country 
by the Department of Agriculture in 1886. It is a 
very hardy annual, usually remaining green during 
the entire Winter when left undisturbed, 
and where mulched by its own top of 
late Fall growth. To those unfamiliar 
with vetches it may be said that they 
are very much like peas, bearing slender 
leaflets, small stalks, small blue flowers 
and a small seed about the size of a No. 
2 shot, and almost as round. This vetch 
is usually considered a Winter variety, 
but may be sown in the Autumn or 
Spring. If in the Spring, the last of 
April or first of May; if in the Fall it 
should be sown early, certainly not after 
the middle of September. The ground 
should be at least moderately fertile, 
and should have thorough preparation. 
The seed may be sown broadcast, or may 
be put in with a drill at the rate of 30 
pounds per acre. If sown broadcast it 
should be harrowed once over to cover 
the seed. The plants grow very slowly 
for the first few weeks, and if sown in 
the Fall will not cover the ground be¬ 
fore the following May. 
After it is once well rooted, it grows 
much more rapidly, and if undisturbed 
will soon form a dense growth, covering 
the ground completely. It is relished by 
sheep, horses and cattle, but is regarded 
as especially adapted to sheep. Like 
other leguminous plants it is especially 
rich in albuminoids. It may be pastured, 
but I believe will be found more useful 
as a soiling crop. For this purpose it 
may be sown with oats, which will hold it up suffi¬ 
ciently to permit cutting with the mowing machine. 
It should be cut before or while in blossom, as the 
stalk soon begins to dry after the blossom has passed 
off. From the experience I have had with it I cannot 
think it more valuable than clover as far north as 
Ohio and New York. Our experience indicates that it 
will make a good Summer growth, will keep green 
during Winter if not pastured or cut too close in the 
Fall, but will not bear Winter pasturing in this lati¬ 
tude. For a sheep feed I believe it is superior, pound 
for pound, to any leguminous crop we can grow, but 
we cannot produce as large crops of it as we can of 
clover. Like other plants of its kind it is regarded as 
an excellent crop for green manuring, and from its 
manner of growth, on account of covering the ground 
so completely, there is good reason to believe that it 
is one of the best of the Pulse family for this purpose. 
Spring vetch (Vicia sativa) is a variety very closely 
related to the so-called Winter vetch. Its habits of 
growth, color of flowers and general structure are al¬ 
most identical, but in our experience it has not given 
as promising results as the Winter variety. Sheep 
breeders, especially those who breed and enter the 
show ring, might find the vetch a great help in giving 
variety of feed. It may fill a place to advantage in 
soiling, but as a general farm crop, I have not found 
it to work in with convenience in any ordinary rota¬ 
tion. J. FREMONT HICKMAN. 
Ohio Experiment Station. 
The English Society for the Promotion of Eandness to 
Animals Is endeavoring to have the protection accorded 
by the Geneva convention to those who tend wounded 
men on the field of battle extended also to those who 
tend wounded animals. 
NEW STRAWBERRY MARIE. Fie. 39. See Ruraeisms, Page 108. 
