X 
VoL. LX. No. 2679. NEW YORK, JUNE 1, 1901. 
SOME FACTS ABOUT THE USE OF BORDEAUX 
Wiiy IT IS USED. 
When and How Spraying Is Done. 
The accompanying illustrations, Figs. 15S and 156, 
show the two general types of spraying apparatus for 
Bordeaux as well as other spraying mixtures. Fig 155 
is the style of pump and wagon used in most orchards 
where, in order to spray the foliage thoroughly, it 
is necessary to reach a considerable height. It is 
usually manipulated by three men, one driving and 
pumping, and the others directing the nozzles from 
the tower. The tank holds several hundred gallons of 
the spraying mixture, which is kept stirred up by an 
automatic device. Consequently, it is an advantage 
to use a circular tank rather than a square one, as 
in the former there are no corners for the solids to ac¬ 
cumulate. For orchards of smaller trees, such as 
peach or pear, the spraying apparatus is frequently 
carried on a low wagon or a stone boat, and for still 
smaller fruits and shrubbery a device such as Fig. 156 
is commonly used. In the use of this one man per¬ 
forms the whole operation. A still simpler device is 
the knapsack tank and pump, but this necessitates a 
too frequent renewal of the spraying mixture. 
While much has been said about the use of Bor¬ 
deaux Mixture as a fungicide, and while it is used al¬ 
most universally among fruit growers, many are still 
ignorant of its practical importance or of its use in 
specific cases. The reason for this is probably due 
to the obscurity of its results as compared with those 
of insecticides such as Paris-green or London purple. 
In the use of these one can see the dead insects be¬ 
fore him as a proof of the efficiency of the spray, 
while in the use of the fungicide no fungus enemy 
may appear, and the fruit grower is uncertain wheth¬ 
er its disappearance is due to natural causes or the 
application of his remedy. Bordeaux Mixture being, 
like all other fungicides, a preventive, and in most 
cases not a cure, it is of the utmost importance that 
its application be made early before the fungus ap¬ 
pears. This is made doubly emphatic when one un¬ 
derstands the nature of the fungus attacks. A fun¬ 
gus is a plant parasitic upon other plants of a higher 
order. It is propagated by spores which are carried 
about in the air. On coming in contact with the host 
plant they germinate, sending mycelial threads into 
the tissue of the plant. Thus, after getting a foot¬ 
hold, it may be impossible to kill the fungus, but as 
it dies of its own accord each Fall after producing 
what are known as the Winter spores, the attacks the 
following Spring may be prevented by using some 
remedy that will prevent the germination of the 
spores. It is on this account that promptness in ap¬ 
plying Bordeaux is of prime importance. Thorough¬ 
ness is also a necessity, for if even a part of a leaf is 
not reached by the fungicide, the fungus may find a 
foothold on this portion. 
Although the time of applying Bordeaux depends 
upon circumstances—the locality, the condition of the 
weather, and the kind of plant treated—a general 
practice may be followed of first spraying just be¬ 
fore the fruit buds appear; next, just after the blos¬ 
soms fall and again about two weeks later. If the 
season is unusually wet a number of other sprayings 
should be practiced. Under no conditions should the 
spray be applied while the plants or trees are bloom¬ 
ing, as pollination may be seriously aft'ected. 
The proportion of different ingredients in the Bor¬ 
deaux Mixture should vary according to the time of 
year applied and the kind of fruit treated. For in¬ 
stance, the solution used early in the season should 
be strong, consisting of six pounds of copper sulphate, 
four pounds of quicklime and 50 gallons of water, 
and later a weaker solution of two pounds of copper 
sulphate, two pounds of quicklime, and 50 gallons of 
water should be used. For Japan plums a larger 
proportion of lime and water, than in the first for¬ 
mula, may be used to advantage. Frequently excel¬ 
lent results are obtained by combining the Bordeaux 
Mixture in the same spray with an insecticide, such 
as kerosene emulsion or Paris-green. Thus double 
results are obtained in but one spraying. Although 
the Bordeaux Mixture itself is strictly a fungicide, it 
also prevents, in a few cases, the ravages of insects 
WAGON SPRAYER FOR TALL TREKS. FiS. 155. 
by making the foliage unpleasant for them. This is 
noticeable in the case of potato vines, which on being 
sprayed with Bordeaux are freer from the attacks of 
the fiea-beetle than unsprayed vines. The spray gives 
a similar result when applied to cucumber vines. But 
unless one is spraying for a fungus enemy in such 
cases, it would be more economical to use an insec- 
SMALL SPRAYER FOR SHRUBS. Fia. 156. 
ticide. Successful spraying, whether with Bordeaux 
or any other mixture, is, after all, largely a matter 
of judgment. The fruit grower himself should best 
know his ow'n plants and their needs. If he act intel¬ 
ligently, fully understand the value of the different 
sprays, and follow the general principles applicable 
to all cases, he cannot fail to be successful in his 
results. A. F. B. 
Oh, what a rest and grand uplift this good old world 
see, if tongues would ne’er find fault until they had a 
remedy! 
EVERYBOOrs BARDEN. 
INTENSIVE CULTURE FOR CRISP QUALITY. 
Some Experience With Blackberry Rust. 
PLANT PROTECTORS.—A subscriber asks for 
more definite instructions in making the plant pro¬ 
tectors described in a previous issue. In the direc¬ 
tions given on page 322, read, “Bend the strips round,’’ 
etc., instead of “bind the strips,” and the meaning will 
be clear. Use the heaviest tarred building paper, which 
may be procured from any hardware dealer; the 
paper fasteners can be found at any book and sta¬ 
tionery store. For tomato plants, cut the material 
into strips 10x28 inches, bend the strip to form a 
cylinder, giving one inch lap, and secure with the fast¬ 
eners as shown in diagram. The fasteners, after be¬ 
ing passed through the lap, are easily clinched with 
the fingers. This will be almost identical in size with 
the ordinary steel peck measure. Any size desired 
may be made, and smaller ones especially are very 
convenient. The covers of the same material should 
be cut in squares from IY 2 , to two inches larger than 
diameter of protector, which in this case would be 11 
inches. When placing the protectors over the plants 
press them into the soil or bank lightly at the base; 
when so placed, if the covers are sufficiently weighted 
to hold tightly in place, they will protect against con¬ 
siderable freezing. On pleasant days, removing the 
covers will give the plants the sunshine and still pro¬ 
tect from cold winds, which often chill and whip the 
plants to their serious detriment. 
BEETS.—The late Fall and Winter supply, either 
for home use or market, are best not sown before 
June 15 or later, as overgrown stock is undesirable 
for any purpose except feeding. They will continue 
growth until late Fall, and the proper time will best 
be determined by the localities where grown. The 
best results both as to quality and yield will be ob¬ 
tained by later sowing and depending upon thorough¬ 
ly enriched soil and intensive culture for crisp quality 
and desirable size. 
PARSNIPS.—The seed is slow to germinate, and if 
yield is the one object sought, early sowing is essen¬ 
tial. For desirable table qualities, however, sow early 
in June and thin to four inches, and cultivate thor¬ 
oughly for the growth. Deep, mellow and moderately 
rich soil will give best results. Avoid fresh manure, 
as this causes the roots to grow rough and unshapely. 
The late Winter and Spring supply should remain in 
the rows where grown until wanted for use. 
VIGOROUS GROWTH.—The table qualities of all 
vegetables depend very largely upon vigorous growth. 
No vegetable grown under unfavorable conditions will 
ever reach anything like perfection. So then, for best 
results conditions should be as nearly right as possi¬ 
ble. These conditions, in so far as man is able to con¬ 
trol, are good seed,- thoroughly prepared seed bed, 
careful planting and diligent cultivation. With man’s 
part properly attended to. Nature will usually answer 
for the rest. 
CUCUMBERS.—The Japanese variety will be found 
excellent for small gardens, as the quality is of the 
best, and-little space will be required. They will read¬ 
ily clamber over a slanting trellis, or grow nearly up¬ 
right by occasionally tying the vines, to the slats with 
coarse twine or strips of cloth, A few hills will sup¬ 
ply the family needs nearly the entire season through, 
if well watered, and care be exercised in avoiding too 
large a growth of the fruits. By no means allow them 
to ripen the seeds; as this will soon destroy the vines. 
The greater part of the main crop will, according to 
location, be planted from June 1 to the first week in 
July. They are best planted in hills five feet apart, 
or they succeed nicely sown in drills on slightly raised 
ridges six feet apart. A plentiful supply of well- 
rotted manure should be worked into the hill or drill, 
and shallow but thorough cultivation continued as 
