468 
July 6 
Jarmers Club. 
[Every query must be accompanied by 
the name and address of the writer to in¬ 
sure attention. Before asking a question, 
please see whether it is not answered in 
our advertising columns. Ask only a few 
questions at one time. Put questions on a 
separate piece of paper.] 
Seeding Grass With Buckwheat. 
What are the chances of obtaining a 
good catch of Timothy and clover by seed¬ 
ing them with buckwheat this Summer? 
This system has been used in this 
State, and with satisfaction, provided 
the season is at all favorable, and the 
buckwheat does not grow so heavy as 
to lodge, and thus smother the young 
grass. Personally, however, I would 
prefer to take chances on plowing the 
land now and keeping it raw until July, 
and then seeding to grass. You would 
stand a much better Chance to get a 
good catch now and a crop next year, 
than if seeded with buckwheat. 
E. B. VOOBHEES. 
New Jersey Exp. Station. 
We have never attempted to sow 'lim- 
othy or clover in connection with buck¬ 
wheat, and I do not know of anyone 
having done this. The habit of growth 
of the buckwheat is such that I should 
not anticipate satisfactory results from 
such a combination. Possibly grass and 
clover might make a good start should 
the buckwheat be sown very thin, but 
if sown in the usual quantity the crop 
of buckwheat from the branching habit 
and broad leaves of the plants, would 
be sure to shade the ground to much 
greater extent than w'ould be favorable 
to the grass, i should prefer planting 
the land to corn. Corn for the silo might 
be best, but late sweet corn would an¬ 
swer. I should sow the mixed grass and 
clover seeds in the corn about August 1. 
Mass. Exp. Station, wm. p. brooks. 
I hear of many persons who have 
seeded not only with Timothy and ordi¬ 
nary Medium Red clover, but with 
Crimson clover in buckwheat most suc¬ 
cessfully. The time for sowing buck¬ 
wheat gives opportunity for fitting the 
land well. I may say, however, that 
better results are secured if the land is 
plowed and left to weather for two or 
three weeks before the seeding, which 
gives time for harrowing and compact¬ 
ing the sub-surface soil. However, it 
is now too late to give much time for 
weathering. Usually, buckwheat ground 
is very poorly prepared. Harrow, roll, 
harrow, and then harrow again before 
sowing. Do not sow over one-half bushel 
of buckwheat per acre. Even a less 
amount would give better opportunity 
for the clover and grasses. Use commer¬ 
cial fertilizers rather liberally. We have 
discovered in the last few years that few 
crops respond to a judicious application 
of fertilizers as promptly as does buck¬ 
wheat. The fertilizers will assist ma¬ 
terially in getting a perfect seeding of 
grasses. i. r. Roberts. 
New York Exp. Station. 
An Experience With Spraying, 
a. U'. //., Ogle, /•(/.—This season has been 
my first to try spraying apple trees. Al¬ 
though it rained a great deal, I kept right 
at it; used Bordeaux Mixture with Bondon 
purple at the rate of four to five ounces 
to 50 gallons Mixture. Could this be too 
much London purple? I find a great many 
of the leaves are scorched; also some of 
the fruit on upper side. The trouble seems 
to be the worst on early varieties, and on 
the sunny side of the trees. Could this 
have been caused by spraying when the 
sun was shining direct on the tree? Will 
the fruit thus damaged grow to maturity, 
or will it be one-sided or drop off? 
Ans.—L ondon purple is not nearly so 
safe to use as Paris-green, for it varies 
in composition, and often contains much 
free or soluble arsenic, which is what 
burns foliage. But I cannot understand 
how so small amount as G. W. H. used, 
and in combination with Bordeaux Mix¬ 
ture too, could have burned apple fo¬ 
liage. Possibly the ingredients of the 
Bordeaux were badly combined, so there 
was a surplus of the copper-sulphate 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
solution. With properly made Bordeaux 
Mixture we should be able to use Paris- 
green at the rate of one pound in 100 
gallons on apples without danger of in¬ 
juring; this is the strength now used 
by many New York apple growers. 
Spraying when the sun was shining 
should not have caused the spray to 
burn the leaves. I cannot determine 
from the description of the injury to the 
fruit whether it will outgrow the affec¬ 
tion or not. Doubtless a few days of 
this growing weather will soon demon¬ 
strate one way or the other. 
M. v. si.inuereand. 
Spraying for the Codling Moth. 
(j. H., Walla Walla, Tl'(/«/i.—Which i.s the 
best .spraying material for Codling moth 
only, irrespective of cost, sulphate of cop¬ 
per solution. Paris-green and lime, the 
Bordeaux Mixture, the ammoniacal mix¬ 
ture, or the London purple with lime? 
Also, why is it, as great stress is put 
forth in your valuable article of April 20 
in The R. N.-Y. on spraying early, that 
my early Summer apples last Summer were 
not affected with five per cent Codling 
moth, while with Fall varieties, at least 
5-) per cent was affected? My first spray¬ 
ing was not done for three weeks after the 
last blossoms had fallen off, but I do not 
think I sprayed later enough in the .season. 
Ans.—A solution of sulphate of cop¬ 
per, or Bordeaux Mixture, or the am¬ 
moniacal mixture, are all fungicides, 
and will thus prove of little avail 
against the Codling moth, and they 
should be used for combating fungous 
diseases only—like the apple scab, etc. 
To check the Codling moth with k spray 
it is necessary to use a poison, and there 
is little choice between London purple 
and Paris-green, provided plenty of lime 
is used with each. New York apple 
growers are using a poison at the rate 
of one pound in 100 gallons of Bordeaux 
Mixture or lime and water; many are 
using white arsenic boiled with lime or 
sal soda, and find it just as effectual and 
much cheaper than Paris-green. 
The all-important time to spray for 
the Codling moth is within a week after 
the blossoms fall, so as to get some of 
the poison into the cup at the calyx or 
blossom end of the fruit before the calyx 
leaves close up this cup. It is in this 
(up or cavity that most of the first brood 
of the caterpillars of the Codling moth 
spend the first few days of their life, 
and get their first meals. A thorough 
spraying at this all-important time in 
the growth of the fruit will be more ef¬ 
fectual in reducing the numher of 
wormy apples than three or four or 
more applications after that time, al¬ 
though oftentimes these later sprayings 
are necessary, and materially help in 
the warfare, especially in the West, 
where the insect has more than one 
brood annually. Do not fail to spray 
at this opportune time. Where the Cod¬ 
ling moth has two or three broods, as 
in the Far West, it will pay to supple¬ 
ment the poison spray with the banding 
system; that is bandages of burlap or 
some similar material put around the 
trunk of the tree and examined every 
week to kill the caterpillars w'hich have 
crawled under the band to transform. 
This weekly examination of the bands 
is all-important, and quite necessary to 
the success of the method. 
M. V. SELNUERLAND. 
Grafting Questions, 
W. J. (}. TV., Raleigh, Tenv. —1. I would like 
to bud the pecan on the hickory, and wish 
to know how it is done. I know it is dif¬ 
ficult to do, but will not be discouraged by 
failure. 2. Can the Scuppernong be graft¬ 
ed on the Muscadine? If so, how would 
you proceed? 3. Name some work on graft¬ 
ing and budding that would be of value 
to the novice. 
Ans. —1. The best method of budding 
the pecan on the hickory or upon 
pecan is by the ring method. This is 
done by selecting scions that have we'l 
developed buds, and if they have those 
that project into spurs they are very 
good. Cut out a ring of bark from the 
scion about an inch or two long. Place 
it on the stock as a pattern and cut out 
a piece of bark just the size to admit it. 
Bind it fast with waxed cloth, and it 
will quite surely grow. This should be 
done when the buds and stocks are well 
grown, which will usually be about Au¬ 
gust or September. 2. The Scuppernong 
grape may be grafted on the Muscadine, 
but with great difficulty. The stock 
should be cut off a few inches below the 
surface of the ground, and trimmed to 
a sharp wedge at the top. The scion 
should be about a foot long and a slit 
or gash cut in it about the middle. This 
slit should be straddled over the wedge 
of the stock, and the projecting butt end 
of the scion pushed into the ground. 
This makes a sort of combined cutting 
and graft, which is much more likely 
to grow than an ordinary graft. 3. The 
NuLsery Book, by li. H. Bailey, which 
may be had through The R. N.-Y., price 
$1, gives full directions for budding and 
grafting. H. E. van deman. 
Planting Asparagus in the Fall. 
T. H. M., Niagara, 0«<.—Have you any ex¬ 
perience in planting asparagus roots in the 
Fall? 1 purpose trying two-year-old plants. 
Ans. —We have seen asparagus suc¬ 
cessfully planted in the Fall in Ten¬ 
nessee, and see no reason why it should 
not succeed in your locality. In the as¬ 
paragus regions about New York plant¬ 
ing is always done in the Spring, but 
only, as we understand it, as a matter 
of convenience in arranging work. If 
planted the usual depth of three to five 
inches well covered and mulched to les¬ 
sen heaving, it should not be harmed by 
frost, as it is a very hardy plant. As a 
rule, however. Spring is the best time 
to plant herbaceous subjects. 
Starting Strawberry Seeds. 
P. A. R., Gardena, Cal.—l would like some 
information in regard to growing straw¬ 
berry seedlings. I find it hard to get the 
seeds to germinate. How should I treat 
them? 
Ans. —Crush the strawberries in some 
kind of absorbent paper. Scrape off the 
pulp and mix with enough dry sand to 
separate the seeds, which may be imme¬ 
diately sown thinly, sand and all, in 
pots or shallow boxes of light soil. If 
the seeds are viable they should soon 
come up, and the little plants may be 
pricked out and transplanted to similar 
boxes or small pots as soon as they can 
be handled. The seeds should be lightly 
covered, and the soil kept moist, but not 
sodden, until they germinate. 
Subduing Wild Growth. 
/.'. D. L., New Market, N. J.—How can I 
get rid of brleris in a sandy two-acre 
patch that I wish to use? The old farm¬ 
ers around here cannot see any way to 
subdue them, and their plows are not fitted 
to cut through them. I would like to learn 
the best way to treat the field and the 
best crop to cultivate. The land is old, 
and has been cultivated until the last few 
years. 
Ans. —Apparently the only way to 
subdue wild growths on old fields is to 
cut down or grub up the worst growths, 
and tear up the soil with a strong plow. 
All roots and trash should be gathered 
and burned, and the field planted to 
corn, potatoes or some crop needing 
prolonged cultivation. Two or three 
seasons of persistent work should tam^ 
the wildest land if there are no stumps 
or thick roots. 
When you write advertisers mention The 
R. N.-Y. and you will get a quick reply and 
“a square deal.” See our guarantee 8th page. 
ARMSTRONO & McKELVX 
IMttsburg^h. 
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: NewYorkStateFair 
4 
September 9 to 14, 1901 
$ 65 , 000 ; in Premiums and Purses ;$ 65,000 
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T T T ▼ T 
