532 
August 3 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
Jarmers Club. 
[Every query must be accompanied by 
the name and address of tha writer to In¬ 
sure attention. Before asking a question, 
please see whether It is not answered In 
our advertising columns. Ask only a few 
questions at one time. Put questions on a 
separate piece of paper.] 
Budding Peach Trees. 
J. C., Vineland, N. J.—l have bought a 
farm with about 10,000 peach seedlings on 
It These were planted last Spring, and 
are now about three feet in height. When 
should they be budded? What does a pro¬ 
fessional generally charge for such work 
when the farmer furnishes all material? 
Ans. —^The peach seedlings mentioned 
should be budded about the middle of 
August or possibly a little sooner. If 
the service of a good budder is secured 
he should receive about $2.60 per day 
and board. It is hard stooping -work, 
and requires much skill as well. 
n. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Tree Protectors; Stay man Apple. 
tv. W. TV., Tyrone, Pa.—\. Would It be 
feasible in a young apple orchard to build 
a wire protection around each tree, and 
pasture with sheep? I could make It so 
that It would not hinder spraying, examin¬ 
ing at the collar, or hoeing around each 
tree. When the trees should become large 
the wire would not be needed. 2. Is Stay- 
man the best of the Wlnesap seedlings? 
Do you think It would be as profitable as 
York Imperial here? Would Sutton and 
Grimes keep here till April in a good fruit 
cellar If picked at the right time? Do you 
know of any market variety as good as, 
or better than any one of these four? 
Ans. —1. Wire netting is sometimes 
used with good effect as a protection 
about apple trees where sheep or pigs 
are allowed to run in the orchard. Jt 
does not hurt them in any way, and It 
is only a matter of whether or not the 
cost of protection is greater than the 
benefit to the stock, that is, in case the 
trees would not do better under a state 
of tillage than used as pasture. 2. The 
Stayman apple seems to be the best of 
all the Winesap seedlings. I think it 
would be about as profitable as York 
Imperial 'in the region of Tyrone, Pa. I 
think it doubtful whether Sutton and 
Grimes would keep in that section un¬ 
til April in an ordinary fruit cellar, but 
they might do so. I think these four va¬ 
rieties just mentioned would be about 
the best that could be planted there for 
Winter use, either at home or for mar¬ 
ket. H. E. V. D. 
Questions About Apples. 
J. T., Petersburg. Va. —I have a lot of land 
that is very light and sandy and Is too 
thirsty for vegetables. I wish to set In 
late Winter apples. What kind would you 
advise setting? How far apart, and how 
prepare the soil? Is a water sprout as good 
to graft with as other parts of trees? 
Should trees be bought near location? Is 
the Le Conte pear the freest from blight 
that I can get? I have one planted on 
same soil as described, and it has made 
four feet of growth this year. 
Ans. —In the vicinity of Petersburg, 
Va., I would advise the setting of such 
Winter apples as Winesap, Stayman, 
York Imperial, Ben Davis and Rome 
Be.auty. These will all do well in that 
section. Apple trees should not be 
planted nearer than 30 feet in that soil 
and climate, and I think that 40 feet 
would be better, but in the latter case I 
would plant them 20 feet apart north 
and south, with the expectation of cut¬ 
ting out half the trees when they be¬ 
come large enough to crowd each other. 
The soil should be thoroughly plowed, 
just as if one were going to plant some 
farm crop, and where the rows are going 
to be I should make the dead furrows, 
plowing just as deep as possible in the 
bottom of each, and after the trees were 
planted I would use one horse to fill up 
these dead furrows with the plow, mak¬ 
ing at least two or three rounds. Water 
sprouts are not very good to use as 
scions, although I have grown a few 
scions for the purpose of testing the 
matter. The best scions are those which 
have large and well-developed buds, and 
that are one foot or more in length. It 
is always desirable to procure trees for 
planting as near home as possible If 
good ones are to be obtained, but if not, 
there is no good reason why they may 
not be transported some hundreds of 
miles and planted without any serious 
consequences. But, wherever a good 
nursery is at hand, I would advise going 
there with a wagon after the trees, or 
sending an order in writing to the nur¬ 
seryman and have them shipped. The 
Le Conte pear is by no means free from 
blight. It was at one time thought to 
be so, but experience has proven this to 
be a great mistake. The Kieffer pear 
rarely has the blight, and is a much 
more profitable variety to grow. 
H. E. V. D. 
Pecans and Chestnuts in Ohio. 
G. W. O., Columbus, O.—1. I noticed In 
The R. N.-Y. that the pecan can be graft¬ 
ed on to the hickory, and wish to know 
whether the pecan will ripen in the north¬ 
ern part of Ohio. 2. Several years since, 
seeing some nice young chestnuts on my 
Athens County farm, I sent 1,000 to my 
Hardin County farm; many of them lived 
for a year, and all died within three years. 
The change from a carboniferous forma¬ 
tion to the soils or clays of the limestone 
decomposition was too much for them. 
Will the Spanish, Italian or Japan 
chestnut thrive in the soils of the lime¬ 
stone formation, and mature in the cen¬ 
tral and northern part of Ohio? 
Ans. —1. Some varieties of the pecan 
will ripen in the northern part of Ohio, 
but there are very few varieties that 
will do so. It is not at all likely that 
any great success will follow any experi¬ 
ment in this line, especially in grafting 
on the native hickories in the section 
mentioned. 2. In regard to growing 
chestnuts on limestone land, I would 
say that it rarely succeeds with either 
the native American species, or w'ith 
those from Japan or Europe. There is 
something quite uncongenial in such 
soil to all of the chesftiut family. 
H. E. V. D. 
Seedling Fruit Trees. 
J. 8. IT., Worcester. Mass.—Is it really 
necessary that peach, plum and cherry 
stones should be planted in the Pall, that 
they may freeze in the Winter to make 
them grow? How many years from plant¬ 
ing will It be before they bear? Will pear 
trees grow well If grafted on to apple, or 
can’t it be done? The Sheldon is the va¬ 
riety referred to. 
Ans. —It is a very common opinion 
that peach, plum and cherry seeds re¬ 
quire freezing before they will sprout 
and grow, but this is a great mistake. 
It is, however, quite necessary that they 
should be kept moist, at least from Fall 
until Spring, and I like to keep them 
moist from, the time they are gathered 
in the Fall until the nejct Spring. My 
plan has been to lay them on the ground 
spread out, not in a pile, lest they fer¬ 
ment and heat, and upon the approach 
of cold weather mark out rows and plant 
them where they are to grow in the nur¬ 
sery. When we think of the fact that 
peaches are grown in Florida and some 
other places where the ground rarely, if 
ever freezes, we can readily see that 
freezing is not an essential. Peach trees 
usually bear about the third year from 
seed, and plums and cherries two or 
three years later. The pear does not 
succeed well when grafted upon the 
apple, because the union is quite imper¬ 
fect. Grafts will usually grow when 
properly set, but the wood of the one 
does not seem to be congenial with that 
of the other, and an ugly knot is usual¬ 
ly formed, and before many years’ bear¬ 
ing the graft will be blown off by the 
wind. H. E. V. D. 
Dodder on Raspberry Plants. 
F. IJ. F., Andover, Mass. —I send a parasite 
which attacks and runs on my raspberries. 
It troubled me to some extent last year, 
and has Just broken out again. I suppose 
the remedy is destruction of both parasite 
and host. 
Ans. —^The parasite attached to the 
raspberry stalk proved to be the plant 
known as dodder. This plant originally 
starts into growth from the ground, but 
as 'it runs up and finds some other plant 
to which it can attach Itself, it then gets 
its sustenance from the other plant, and 
its ground roots usually die. The dod¬ 
der then reaches out from plant to plant 
and attaches itself to the plants, living 
upon them. If the infested raspberry 
stalks can be isolated from the remain¬ 
der of the patch not yet infested by a 
few feet of open space, so that the dod¬ 
der cannot reach across, it will soon run 
itself out. I know of no method of kill¬ 
ing the dodder already attached to the 
plant without injuring the plant, unless 
the parasite can be pulled off from the 
plants. M. V. SLINGEKLAND. 
Killing the Cucumber Bug. 
J. 8. B., 8yossei, N. T.—I have a field of 
pickles which I spray regularly, but that 
does not seem to check a small striped 
bug, called here June bug. I have thought 
of using whale-oil soap on them but do 
not know how. What should I use and 
how, in order to exterminate this little 
pest? 
Ans. —The small striped bug is the 
well-known striped Cucumber beetle, 
which this year is proving a very de- 
sitructive pest, not only in its adult or 
beetle form, but its grubs are also doing 
much damage by boring into the stems 
of the same plants. The latest recom¬ 
mendation for fighting the pest is to 
plant some early squash along one side 
of the field before the melons or cucum¬ 
bers are planted. The beetles will take 
the squash vines in preference to the 
others, and then by keeping the melons 
or cucumber vines well sprayed with 
Bordeaux Mixture and applying Paris- 
green to the squash plants one can keep 
the beetles off the cucumber vines. Some 
report good results by using liberal 
quantities of tobacco dust on the infest¬ 
ed plants, while others claim to drive 
away the beetles by the use of air-slaked 
lime in which a little turpentine or kero¬ 
sene has been mixed. Of course, early 
in the season one can cover the plants 
with frames having a cloth top and then 
keep out the beetles until the plants be¬ 
gin to run. It is also well to put in a 
liberal amount oi seed, so that there will 
be plants enough for the bugs and to 
give a good setting of vines. The larg¬ 
er’ beetle sent with the striped beetles is 
the only kind of “lady bug” which is not 
beneficial. Instead of feeding upon 
plant-lice and other small insects as do 
n 
the rest of its family, it feeds upon 
plants and sometimes does considerable 
damage. It is called the Boreal lady 
bug (Epilachna borealis). It succumbs 
to the same treatment as the striped 
beetle. m. v. slingerland. 
The Use of Lime. 
D. O. 8., Myerstown, W. Va.—In liming 
would you recommend a large quantity of 
lime to acre, or not so much and oftener, 
applied on land that is worked down? Can 
lime and fertilizers be mixed together and 
sown with wheat? If so, how much to 
the acre? 
Ans. —Most farmers that we have 
talked with prefer to use lime every four 
or five years—20 to 25 bushels per acre. 
As a rule, they put the lime on the 
wheat and grass. This practice con¬ 
forms to the advice of the scientific 
men. The best plan seems to be to 
broadcast the lime after plowing and 
harrow it well into the ground. We 
would not mix the lime with the ferti¬ 
lizer. Grain fertilizers usually contain 
dissolved phosphate rock or other solu¬ 
ble phosphoric acid. The lime will 
cause this to revert and thus become 
less available as plant food. 
Winter Oats in the North. 
F. B. O., Tyngsboro, Mass. —Are Winter 
oats adapted to this climate, and where 
can the seed be purchased? 
Ans. —No, the Winter oats cannot be 
recommended for gram north of Phila¬ 
delphia. They make a heavy growth in 
the Fall, thus providing good pasture, 
but with us they die out in March. They 
make a good cover crop for Fall and 
Winter, as they die out before time for 
plowing. 
Blood Clots in Eggs. 
A. L. D., Southampton, L. I.—We occa¬ 
sionally find the yolk of a fresh-laid egg 
bloodshot. Can The R. N.-Y. tell me the 
cause and a remedy? 
Ans. —^The blood clots in the egg are 
usually the result of ruptured blood ves¬ 
sels in or near the oviduct of the hen. 
The trouble is worst in fat and lazy 
hens. The best remedies are change of 
feed, less food or exercise. Anything 
that will make the hen work off her fat 
or put her in better condition will help. 
ARMSTRONG * McKElVT 
I’ittsburgli. 
BEYMER-BAUMAN 
Pitlsbtirgh. 
DAVIS-CHAMBERS 
Biusburgh. 
FAHNESTOCK 
I’ittsburgh. 
ANbKOR ) 
1 Cincinnati. 
ECKSTEIN ) 
ATLANTIC 
BRADLEY 
BRCOKLYNl 
JEWETT 
ULSTER 
UNION 
SOUTHERN 
SHIPMAN 
COLLIER 
MISSOURI 
RED SEAL 
SOUTHERN 
New York. 
Chicago. 
(St. Louis. 
JOHN T. LEWIS & EROS CO 
Philadelphia. 
MORLEY 
SALEM 
CORNELL 
KENTUCKY 
Cleveland. 
Salem, Mass. 
Uuflalo. 
T.ouisville. 
D 
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The New Horticulture 
BY H. M. STRINCF=^ELLOW, 
We do not hesitate to say that this is one of the most 
interesting books on horticulture that ever was printed. 
Most reading farmers have heard of the now famous 
“ Stringfellow Method of planting trees, but few 
understand clearly what it is. This book tells the whole 
story in clear-cut, forcible style,'which all can under¬ 
stand. Not only is the theory of close root-pruning 
carefully explained, but the general principles of garden¬ 
ing and fruit-growing are discussed. Mr. Stringfellow 
is a practical gardener, and he gives his own experience. 
We commend the book to all without reserve. New 
Edition, paper covers, 50 cents. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER, New York. 
