i89o 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
5i9 
IN GAY ATTIRE ? 
HE oft-repeated and deeply Interest¬ 
ing question as to how a woman 
shall fittest array herself in order to appear 
at her I est, as well as in fashion, was sub¬ 
mitted, not so long ago, to a number of 
prominent New York women. Mrs. Wil¬ 
liam Astor, who may be regarded as the 
leader even of the super-exclusive 400, in¬ 
sists that simplicity covers the ground, 
nothing being so vulgar as over-dressing, 
or over-trimming, especially if the ma¬ 
terial is of cheap quality. She puts forth 
the dictum that jewelry should never be 
worn on the street, and if Mrs. Astor be 
not an authority upon jewelry, who can 
expect to attain unto that position ? Her 
ideal of a correct full dress is that It should 
be of elegant material, but simply made. 
Elegant simplicity, however, is an extrav¬ 
agance that causes a great strain upon the 
ordinary purse. 
Mrs. Frank Leslie enunciates the old 
principle that a well dressed woman is one 
who is well shod and well gloved. She 
also declares for simple raiment and no 
jewelry for the street, asserting that the 
woman who appears on the street in ap¬ 
parel so gorgeous as to be suitable only for 
the carriage, says in effect to every passer¬ 
by that she has no carriage although she 
would like to have. As the ability to keep 
a carriage is one of the sharp defining lines 
between people who are somebody and 
those who are not, the scathing nature of 
this criticism will be appreciated. Mrs. 
Leslie asserts that a business gown should 
be of the plainest and neatest, and com¬ 
plains that people tell about her “ elegant 
apparel, and handsome jewelry ” in de¬ 
scribing her office dress, when, in reality, 
she always wears a soft, black dress with 
only plain pearl ear-rings and pin. The 
especial suitability of pearls to the business 
office she does not explain, which is a pity, 
as Borne dull intellects may not be able to 
see why they, or any other jewelry, are any 
more suitable to the office than to the 
street. 
Margaret E. Sangster, who, as editor of 
Harper’s Bazar, a fashion periodical, is en¬ 
titled to have consideration given her 
opinions, says that a well-dressed woman 
must be quietly dressed, and careful in 
every little detail. She evidently approves 
of giving serious thought to the items of 
correct dress, and refers to the help which 
the consciousness of being well-dressed is 
in supporting women in every trying situa¬ 
tion. Subdued shades and no jewelry for 
the promenade are marks of good taste, 
and she adds the idea that to wear jewelry 
on the street or while shopping is bad from 
a moral point of view, as it encourages 
theft by advertising your valuables, and 
creates envy in the less fortunate. She 
sensibly declares for common-sense shoes, 
and veiled neck and shoulders, but declines 
to advocate the whole reform and eschew 
corsets, believing that they are “ good to 
give shape to the figure,” and “ essential 
in showing off a pretty costume.” Strange 
to say of such a sensible woman, her ideal 
dress is a gown made by a first-class 
modiste who understands the art of fitting 
perfectly. Is it not a pity that in “ shaping 
the figure” with a corset ready for a first- 
class modiste to fit, some of the incon¬ 
venient organs so closely fitted inside 
could not be laid aside, that they might 
not be subjected to the torture necessary 
to a perfect fit outside ? 
Miss Mary F. Seymour, editor of the 
Business Woman’s Journal, would consider 
the correct costume first of all hygienically, 
but would not have it ugly. She states 
that the tendency to adopt a quiet, refined 
style is fast becoming the distinguishing 
element between. cultivated people and 
those who are the reverse, and asserts that 
ddcollctd gowns are bad for the health and 
demoralizing to both men and women, re¬ 
moving the feeling of respect between 
them in some measure. She thinks women 
who are annoyed by the staring and ogling 
of men on the street have only themselves 
to blame, as their gay attire, bright colors, 
big hats, etc., are the direct cause of the 
annoyance. 
Hygienic and artistic are the adjectives 
that describe Laura Giddiugs’s ideal cos¬ 
tume. She would have women dress in 
harmony with their surroundings, and be¬ 
lieves in flowing folds and ample draperies. 
Dress should not be a mere caprice of 
fashion, but an epitome of the beauty and 
art of the centuries. As associate editor of 
Dress, this lady, no doubt, gives the Jen- 
ness-Miller idea of gowning. 
Jennie June is said to be the one woman 
in America competent to discuss the dress 
questfou. Her idea is that street dress 
should be in tone with the blue and gray of 
the sky and atmosphere; and that it should 
be that which will attract the least notice. 
If the majority of women should once grasp 
this idea, the shock might almost unsettle 
their poor minds. Think of dressing so as 
to attract the least notice, my sisters 1 
It may be noticed that the several ladies 
mentioned scarcely touch the question of 
fashion. It would need but a few weeks’ 
life in a large city,to thorougly revolution¬ 
ize the prevailing idea the country through 
as to what is fashionable ; for in the city, 
a gown, or a garment, to be fashionable, 
needs only to follow the general outlines 
of stylish patterns as given in the fashion 
plates. If any woman can add a decora¬ 
tion or an idea all her own, she has made a 
point; whereas the idea that prevails in 
country towns is that it is iconoclastic to 
tamper with a a fashion plate. Indivi¬ 
duality in detail, while following the 
general idea, is the present emancipating 
watchword from the tower (Eiffel ?) 
whence the goddess of fashion has so long 
dictated to cringing womanhood : and this 
is carried so far that no woman of note will 
wear a gown, unless assured that no one 
else has one like it. MYRA. V. NORYS. 
SUMMER DRESS FABRICS. 
HE old-fashioned ideal of love-in-a-cot- 
tage, with the presiding fairy in a 
cotton gown, has not been so near realiza¬ 
tion as at present, in many years. Possibly 
the prevailing “anglomania” has some¬ 
thing to do with this, as our English cous¬ 
ins so dote on cotton frocks for morning 
wear. It is said, too, that to masculine 
eyes lovely women always looks lovelier in 
a cotton gown than in any other. Yankee 
shrewdness whispers that if he has anything 
to do with paying lovely woman’s bills, he 
may well admire the cottons, as no others 
are so cheap; but the finest cotton dress 
fabrics are now almost as expensive as 
those of wool or silk. White gowns are very 
popular, both in cotton and in wool, but 
the white cotton gowns are seldom seen on 
the street or at church, except on very 
yotmg girls and children. This being the 
case, it has been quite difficult for the 
woman of small means to find anything 
cool enough to be comfortable during the 
heat of the present extra-heated season. 
The demand for something cheap, suitable 
for street wear, cool, and inconspicuous, 
has been satisfied lately by the appearance 
of black nainsooks and lawns, both plain 
and otherwise. Some of these have bor- 
derings in rainbow colors to relieve their 
somberness a little. The old-fashioned 
heavy gray linens are also finding consider¬ 
able favor as cool and serviceable gowns for 
general wear. 
DETAILS IN DRESSING. 
OLIVE E. DANA. 
N English lady writing for girls, says: 
“ Distrust the girl who professes not 
to care how she looks.” Usually, a grow¬ 
ing lack of care about one’s clothes and 
personal appearance implies a deterioration 
of some sort, mentally, morally or socially. 
Dress is an expression of the man, and 
most emphatically of the woman. Like 
other expressions of ourselves, it ought to 
be considered with reference to its fitness, 
our own self-respect, and its effect on 
others. 
I wonder if most women know that a 
dainty toilette, and the look of being well- 
dressed are oftenest attained by a careful 
attention to little things ? The comfort of 
a costume, and even its elegance, depend 
largely on the mmutirn of dressing. The 
best effects in beauty, economy, and fitness, 
are secured by taking care about trifles. 
And even one who lives far from town, and 
does her own dressmaking, may, with 
thought and care, bestow upon her dress 
that fiuish and daintiness that are a kind of 
stamp of ladyhood. 
So much depends on how a gown is worn, 
aud how it is kept. So much, also, on 
those little details of its making about 
which the expert dressmaker is always ex¬ 
ceedingly particular, but which the in¬ 
competent seamstress slights and the home 
dressmaker too often passes over as of no 
consequence. It is just these trifles that 
finish aud refine the whole costume. 
Here are some hiuts which may be help¬ 
ful. The plaits of a plaited skirt are best 
stayed by lengthwise runs, out of sight, of 
course, beginning about a quarter of a yard 
from the top binding, and leaving off at 
about the same distance from the bottom 
of the skirt. If properly plaited, this will 
secure its hanging properly. Tapes around 
the skirt should not be used. A skirt often 
hangs better, too, if it is fastened loosely 
about the waist and sags a little. For very 
slender people this way, however, will not 
answer. For such persons, a skirt-supporter 
is indispensable; for all it is desirable. It 
is an improvement to the figure, and, most 
important of all, it is comfortable and 
healthful. In its simplest and most common 
form, it can be bought at any store where 
such furnishings are kept, for 25 cents, and 
may be adjusted to any form. 
Gathered dress skirts would better have 
two gathering threads, one just beneath 
the other, under the belt. All wide, home¬ 
made belts should be well-stiffened. 
Petticoats are far more satisfactory if 
gathered at the top. 
High, full-sleeves, especially of soft wool 
or silk, often look better if a tiny ruffle of 
canvas or crinoline is inserted at the top, 
on the wrong side, to stand up under the 
fullness. 
A broad sash feels better if tied at first 
moderately tight. It will give enough for 
comfort. 
To draw on a tight jacket-sleeve easily 
carry a bit of string in your pocket. Twist 
one end around the thumb and pass the 
other about the lower part of the sleeve 
and back around the thumb. Or, better, 
double the string and slip it over the 
thumb, and then pass around the cuff and 
back. The sleeve will then go on easily 
and smoothly, aud the string slips off as 
easily. 
Where hooks and eyes, or any invisible 
fastenings, are used, as they are now on 
most dresses, the new spring hooks are by 
far the best. They should be set in, at 
least, half an inch from the outer edge, 
with the eye, of course, on the edge, and 
they should exactly correspond in distances 
apart. 
Invisible nets, however one may regret 
the necessity for them, are certainly far 
daintier in appearance than flying frizzes 
or dishevelled crimps. They are made in 
such shapes and colors that it is easy to 
match, quite perfectly, the color of one’s 
hair and the conformation of one’s crimps. 
Hairpins which have lost their freshness 
should be avoided. For crimps, the invis¬ 
ible sort are best, and for other use the 
plainer bone or steel pins are advisable. 
A few common black pins are very con¬ 
venient in dressing. 
High collars, always best for the street, 
and still much worn on stylish dresses, 
should be made long enough to lap a little. 
All garments should be supplied with 
loops. Skirts should be shaken into the 
proper folds and hung away carefully, or 
laid in boxes. The draperies then take 
their proper lines. 
DRESS REFORM ? 
HE following little story of an old- 
fashioned papa, which is vouched 
for by one of our great dailies, shows how 
the present mannfsh style of maiden cos¬ 
tuming is regarded in some quarters, and 
seems to point to a belief in a painful lack 
of brain-power in the girl of the period : 
“At the theaters some of the alert girls 
wear a black waistcoat with three buttons, 
displaying the largest possible expanse of 
snowy shirt bosom, and the high collar and 
white bow are an exact reflection of the 
gleaming and starchy articles that have so 
long formed the mainstay of full-dressed 
masculinity. An old broker who seldom 
notices how his pretty daughters dress, 
chanced to be at the theater on a recent 
night, with an old club crony, and, in look¬ 
ing about the house, he caught sight of his 
two girls in a box party. They both wore 
the masculine get-up, and the broker 
strained his eyes to make out what it all 
meant. He fumbled in his pocket and 
found a 25-cent piece, which he hastily 
jammed into the opera glass machine in 
front of him. Securing the glass, he leveled 
it with a great exhibition of agitation upon 
the box wherein his daughters sat, and 
gazed long and hard. Then, turning to his 
companion, he begged him to look and tell 
him what his girls had on. The other old 
fellow peered through the glasses and said: 
‘It’s that old dress-reform business, Char¬ 
ley. They are trying to get up all the 
girls to dress like men now, you know, 
and yours have caught the fever.’ 
The broker took a card from his pocket 
and scribbled something on the back. 
Summoning an usher he directed him to 
hand it to his daughters in the box. It 
said : 
‘ Stand up and let me see if you have on 
trousers.’ 
The girl received the card and read it. 
Then, looking about the house, she caught 
her father’s anxious eye, smiled reassur¬ 
ingly at him, and stood upright for him 
to satisfy himself that the lower half of 
her still retained the appearance of modest 
womanhood. The old man fell back re¬ 
lieved, and in all sincerity told his friend 
that he thanked heaven his girls were only 
half fools.” 
Almond Custard.— A recipe for a very 
rich custard for a fancy tea runs as 
follows: Take one-fourth pound of sweet 
almonds, and two bitter almonds (or a few 
drops of the bitter almond flavoring) 
blanch them by pouring boiling water over 
them, and pound them very smooth in a 
mortar. A few drops of rose-water or 
orange-flower water will keep them from 
oiling. Add to this paste one quart of 
sweet cream, the yelks of four eggs, two 
table-spoonfuls of orange-flower water, 
and fine sugar to taste; stir over a slow 
fire until it thickens, then pour into small 
porcelain cups. It is good served either 
hot or cold. 
Piscettaneousi 
Readers of The R. N.-Y will please the 
advertisers and benefit the paper by always 
mentioning it when writing to advertisers. 
Boils and Pimples 
Are nature's efforts to eliminate poison from 
the blood. This result may be accomplished 
much more effectually, as well as agreeably, 
through the proper excretory channels, by 
the use of Ayer’s Sarsaparilla. 
“ For several years I was troubled with 
boils and carbuncles. In casting about for a 
remedy, it occurred to me that Ayer’s Sarsa¬ 
parilla had been used in my father’s family, 
with excellent success, and I thought that 
what was good for the father would also be 
good for the son. Three or four bottles of 
this medicine entirely cured me, and I have 
not since —in more than two years—had a 
boil, pimple, or any other eruptive trouble. 
I can conscientiously speak in the highest 
terms of Ayer's Sarsaparilla, and many 
years’ experience in the drug business en¬ 
ables me to speak intelligently.” — C. Al. 
Latfield, Farmland, Ind. 
Ayer’s Sarsaparilla 
PREPARED BT 
DR. J. C. AYER & CO., Dowell, Mass. 
Price $1; six bottles, $5. Worth $5 a bottle. 
GOLD MEDAL, PARIS 1878 
W. BAKER Jc CG.’S 
Breakfast Cocoa 
Is absolutely pure and 
iv Is solitble. 
No Chemicals 
are used in its preparation. It baa mure 
than three timea the strength of Cocoa 
mixed with Starch, Arrowroot or Sugar, 
and is therefore far more economical, 
costing less than one cent a cup. It is 
delicious, nourishing, strengthening, EA¬ 
SILY Digested, and admirably adapted 
for invalids as well as persons in health. 
Sold by Grocers everywhere. 
TV RATTT'R At Cfl DrvreVi oator Mass. 
will Send a Sample 
Buggy, Road. Cart 
OK HARNESS 
to one person at each post-office 
who will show to others who we 
may send tosee it, Many people 
will buy if they on see for 
themselves, therefore we give 
a bargain to set samples of our 
work in a neighborhood. 
Will You Have One or All? 
Don’t miss this bargain, you may never 
have another We guarantee our work 
to be tirst class In every particular. 
Send 6 cents In stamps for eatalogu s to select from, 
and get testimonials 
from those who have had 
ou- bargains. 
UNION MACHINES,, 
Carriage Dept. No. 7, 
PHILADELPHIA. PA. 
RARE BARGAINS 
IN 
USEFUL ARTICLES 
In the course of trade we have obtained the follow 
lug named articles which we will sell at a big discount 
from manufacturers’ prices. We have no use for 
them and the prices named ought to take them off 
our hands iu short order 
A Weed Sewing Machine, Boudoir Cabinet of 
Black Walnut. Manufacturer’s price S75. We will 
sell in New York for $3u—a rare bargain for some 
one. 
A Wheel Hoe and Cultivator; retails for $6. 
Our price #S. 
Several Curtiss's Improved Needle Hay 
Knives, chisel edge teeth. Retail price #1.25 each. 
Our price only ,75c. each. Order at onre. Address 
N. E, FELLOWS, Box 4, Tenaily, N. J, 
