84 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
February 8 
build up the nervous system, thus leaving the egg 
uncompleted ; or that it weakens the nerves of the 
ovaries and oviduct, making them inactive, leaving 
no power to exclude the egg. james h. seely. 
I do not think that the hen has any desire or wili 
to control the egg production, but simply that change 
of quarters, of feed, or agitating her in any way, or 
worrying her will affect her egg production just as the 
same causes will affect the milk production in a 
sensitive, nervous cow. james rankin. 
It seems that hens, to do their best, must be thor¬ 
oughly accustomed to their quarters, and be con¬ 
tented. A flock can be kept from laying almost 
entirely, by changing from place to place. A hen 
that is laying regularly, if moved, will drop an egg or 
two, or may be three or four, then stop for a longer 
or shorter time, or until she gets accustomed to the 
place. For best results, I would advise keeping in 
the same quarters, feeding and caring for them regu¬ 
larly, and above all avoiding having them frightened 
in any way. I would never allow a dog in the 
poultry yard. d. a. mount. 
New Jersey. 
WHAT THEY SAY. 
“ Straw Potatoes” Again. — In order that the 
article on straw potatoes may not be misleading, I 
wish to make a correction. I would not consider the 
river bottoms suitable to grow straw potatoes. We 
live on the uplands, and consider the highest and 
driest acres on each farm as the most suitable for 
growing potatoes in this way ; also an early potato 
grown under straw will mature fully two weeks later 
than under cultivation. Thousands of acres of early 
potatoes are grown in the American bottom ; growers 
are very cautious to rush them into the market before 
our straw potatoes come in. They are also cautious 
to get our seed (never planting their own) and not 
always trusting the dealer, but often buy them in the 
field before they are dug. I would advise the readers 
of The R. N.-Y. to grow a few in this way, and try 
them as part of their seed at least, and should every¬ 
thing be as favorable as it is here, they will not 
regret it. d. F. m. 
Belleville, Ill. 
To Kile a Young Horn.—D. M. S., page 30, in¬ 
quires about killing horns on calves, and is advised fo 
use caustic potash ; but unless he knows how, he may 
find himself owning a calf with one horn off and one 
horn on. The calf should be treated when four or 
five days old, or as soon as the horns can be felt. A 
dish of water, a pair of scissors (blunt-pointed pre¬ 
ferred) and a piece of paper to hold the potash while 
using, are needed. Let the calf be thrown, and the 
assistant get astride of it. Clip the hair from around 
the horn for a space the size of a silver quarter. 
Wrap a piece of paper around one end of a stick of 
the caustic potash to protect the fingers. Wet the 
horn and rub on the potash until it has a slightly raw 
look and feeling. Rub the potash thoroughly over 
the whole space clipped, for if one spot be left, a 
horn will grow, though a deformed one. If properly 
done, one application is enough. Five cents’ worth 
of caustic potash is enough for three or four calves. 
Keep it in a small bottle tightly corked. t. l. b. 
Hamilton, N. Y. 
Whole Corn and Potatoes. — I send you some 
figures comparing whole corn with raw potatoes as a 
milk producer. The figures given are the average of 
seven days’ feeding of each : 
Pounds milk. 
55 pounds potatoes and 6 ears corn gave.15.94 
60 pounds potatoes and no corn gave.15.86 
38 pounds potatoes and 12 ears corn gave. 14 " 15 
60 pounds potatoes and 4 ears corn gave.15.38 
46 pounds mangels and 8 ears corn gave.14.21 
The cow got very little rough fodder. I gave two 
cows a small armful of corn fodder every day, and 
they had the run of a four-acre hay stubble picked 
nearly clean. This may seem like a good many pota¬ 
toes for one cow, but they did not hurt her, and she 
ate them greedily. However, I began feeding in 
small quantities, gradually increasing. As the yield 
diminished so rapidly when I cut off part of the pota¬ 
toes, I dared not try corn alone, for fear of a milk 
famine at our house. I am only a “ one-cow man.” 
Being unground, much of the corn, of course, was 
undigested. I admit that this was not a balanced 
ration, for as soon as I finished gathering corn, the 
bill of fare and results read as follows : 
Potatoes, 26 pounds. 
Stalk field (unlimited fodder). 
Milk, 18.27 pounds. 
an increase of over two pounds. g. h. j. 
Missouri. 
Dog, Sheep and Rifle. —I read often in The R. 
N.-Y. of the trouble that the sheep men have with 
dogs. As I live within a mile of a good-sized town, 
and have kept more or less sheep for 10 years without 
losing but one by dogs, 1 give my method. When I 
first got my sheep, I also bought a good 40-calibre 
rifle, and every time I saw a dog on my place, I tried 
to see how close I could come to his heels without 
hitting him. I followed that up for three or four 
years, and by that time, the dogs seemed to know 
that it was a bad place for dogs. If a dog did not 
learn after being shot at two or three times, I shot to 
kill, and used him under the grape vines. One year I 
did not see a dog on the place for more than six 
months. I never had any trouble with the owners of 
town dogs, as I gave them to understand that I would 
not shoot any dog that did not bother my sheep, and 
nights I always keep them shut up, so that if they 
wished they could turn them loose without any 
danger from me. There must be close to 50 hunting 
dogs within a mile of me, but to my knowledge, the 
only dogs that ever have bothered any, were part 
bull dogs and little black and tans. h. p. d. 
Warwick, N. Y. 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
the writer to insure attention. Before asking a question please 
see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper.] 
Best Vines for a Piazza. 
F. C. Elizabeth, N. J. —1. Our house faces the south, and has 
an L-shaped piazza on the south and east. What ornamental 
vines would you recommend for shade ? The piazza roof is about 
15 feet from the ground. I would like them to run to the piazza 
roof on the east side, and on the front to the eaves of the house— 
about 25 or 30 feet. We formerly had Virginia Creeper, but it be¬ 
came so unsightly that we cut it down and tried Variegated hop 
on the recommendation of The R. N.-Y. ; but it does not answer 
at all. What do you think of Akebia quinata ? What about the 
different varieties of clematis ? Which variety of the clematis 
grows the tallest? The catalogues differ on this point. What¬ 
ever kind of vine you recommend, give the distance apart to plant 
so as to secure the desired shade, as I may not know the spread¬ 
ing qualities of those. 2. All things considered, what is the best 
wrinkled pea for quality and quantity, that can be grown without 
brushing for the kitchen garden ? 
Ans. —1. For variety’s sake, we would suggest Ake¬ 
bia quinata, the Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia sipho), 
one-of the very best for shade; the Climbing hydrangea, 
which will stand dense shade; Actinidia arguta, the 
rankest-growing vine we have ever had experience 
with, and Hall’s honeysuckle. The wistarias are fine 
for their grand racemes of flowers, but not so good 
for shade. Jackmanii, Henryi and Lawsoniana are 
the best of the clematises of which we know. The 
clematises may be planted rather close together—two 
feet apart. The others may be planted five feet apart, 
and cut back as needed. 2. We really know of no bet¬ 
ter pea than the Improved Stratagem—a selection of 
the old Stratagem. Among the dwarfs, Nott’s Excel¬ 
sior is the best. 
What Improvement in Gladioli ? 
tf. R. W., Lyndon, Ey.—l. Some time ago, I saw the statement 
that there had been no improvement in the newer gladioli over 
the older varieties. I have grown thousands of seedlings of late, 
and as fine, I believe, as do other disinterested parties who are 
capable of judging, as the sun ever shone upon. I would be 
pleased to have you name 10 or 12 of the best old kinds, as I wish 
to grow some for comparison. I mention some old ones that I 
have, that are not comparable : Napoleon III., Mad Monneret, 
Ceres and Reine Blanche. 2. Have the gladiolus and the mont- 
bretia ever been successfully crossed ? 3. Will the palm P. dacty- 
lifera make a good house plant ? 
Ans. —1. The R. N.-Y. has taken a lively interest in 
the gladiolus for 25 years. The first dozen we im¬ 
ported cost us $23. Really, some of those rank among 
the best of to-day ; notably Shakspeare, Eugene 
Scribe, Lord Byron and Addison. To these may be 
added, Meyerbeer, Napoleon III., Mary Stuart and 
Le Poussin. We have tried the of late, much-lauded 
“ Childsii” varieties, and have nothing to say in their 
favor. The so-called black, blue and brown colors 
are myths. The racemes are long and the flowers far 
apart. 2. No, we do not think the Montbretia and 
gladiolus have ever been crossed. Four years ago, we 
made a persistent effort to do it, but seeds did not 
form. 3. Yes. 
Prune Growing at the South. 
W. A. L., Orange, Mass .— Can good prunes be grown in northern 
Georgia and North Carolina? If not, why not? Is not the 
climate of those States quite similar to that on the Pacific coast ? 
Ans. —Every experiment in growing prunes in the 
localities referred to, has so far as I have been enabled 
to ascertain, resulted in failure. An occasional crop 
of fruit has been produced in some sections, but only 
a few specimens to a tree. The causes of failure are 
mainly climatic, as trees which have been carefully 
sprayed for the prevention of Black-knot and insect 
injuries, have never produced enough fruit to war¬ 
rant their cultivation. This refers to every variety 
tested. The climate of northern Georgia and North 
Carolina may, in a few localities, be somewhat similar 
to some of the higher sections of the Pacific coast, but 
there are local influences in the latter which do not 
exist here, and thus prevent the successful cultiva¬ 
tion of plum trees for the purpose of manufacturing 
prunes. p. j. berckmans. 
How Much Wood on a Peach Bud ? 
I. M., Banbury, Conn .—The budding of the peach was well set 
forth recently. Should the wood be taken out of the eye of the 
bud before setting ? I have done it, but with not very good suc¬ 
cess. I would like to know which is best. 
Ans. —No, buds with the small portion of wood left 
in will “ take” and grow just as well as if the bit of 
wood is removed. 
Pears Grafted on Quince. 
W. M. E., Albany, N. Y .—I would like to be advised what to do 
with 300 quince trees just beginning bearing, the fruit ripening 
too late for this section. Would it be profitable to graft pears, or 
an earlier quince? 
Ans. —Having had no experience in grafting the 
quince, I consulted a nurseryman about the matter. 
He thinks it very doubtful whether grafting would 
prove successful. W. M. E. might experiment on a 
few trees the coming season, by inserting a few pear 
buds, and fvatch the result. He does not say what 
variety of quince he has, but I presume that it is the 
Champion. They are somewhat of the nature of a 
winter apple, and will generally soften and color if 
kept till December. If he can ripen them, their late¬ 
ness will be a blessing instead of a calamity, for the 
price is always better late in the season. e. c. g. 
Best of the Carman Potatoes. 
A. B. V., Jndianola, Ia.—l wish to select one potato for general 
field culture from the Carmans. Which of them is the greatest 
yielder ? Which one is largest in size ? Which is the best quality? 
I wish but one, and from the reports, am at a loss to know which 
is best. 
Ans. —The quality varies greatly with the soil and 
season. The R. N.-Y. No. 2 is rarely as good as the 
others. Sometimes the No. 1 is better than the No. 3 ; 
sometimes the reverse. Both are excellent in quality. 
We believe that, generally, the No. 3 will outyield 
the others. 
How The R. N.-Y. Grows Corn. 
li. B. R., Woodstock, Tenn.—Wh&t is The R. N.-Y.’s method of 
cultivating corn ? 
Ans. —Plow in spring as early as possible—a sod 
field preferred if one is after a large yield. Harrow 
until the surface is as fine as need be. We sow fer¬ 
tilizer (high grade complete) before the last harrow¬ 
ing. When we raised our great yield, we sowed fer¬ 
tilizer on one field twice, on another thrice—say 500 
pounds at first, 250 when knee high and 250 before 
the last cultivation. The seed is drilled in, the drills 
four feet apart, the kernels about 14 inches apart. It 
is well to plant thicker than this, and to leave the 
plants 14 inches apart after the first hoeing. The 
first cultivation may be rather deep, subsequent ones 
merely mellowing the surface. Hilling up is avoided. 
Our best yields have come from the Chester County 
Mammoth. 
Two Southern Fertilizers Compared. 
J. F. J., Kinterbish, Ala.—l send the analysis of two brands of 
fertilizers. Which do you think is the cheaper and better, No. 1 
or No. 2 ? 
Analysis of No. 1. 
Water-soluble phosphoric acid. 
Per ceot. 
Citrate-soluble phosphoric acid. 
Insoluble phosphoric acid. 
Total available phosphoric acid. 
Analysis of No. 2. 
Moisture. 
Nitrogen. gj 
Phosnhorie acid, soluble. 
Phosphoric acid, insoluble. 
PhosDhoric acid, reverted. 
Potash... 
No. 1 can be bought for about $17 per ton. Nitrogen can oe sup¬ 
plied in the form of cotton-seed meal for $17.50 per ton. No. 2 can 
be composted for about $10 per ton. 
Ans. —Let us see what these fertilizers contain to 
the ton : 
No. 1. Pounds. No. 2. Pounds. 
Available phosphoric acid...270 Nitrogen. 16 
Potash. 7 
Phosphoric acid.40 
In No. 1 at $17, the phosphoric acid costs 6% cents a 
pound. Counting the nitrogen and potash in No. 2 at 
the average trade prices, the 40 pounds of phosphoric 
acid will cost over $7, or more than 17% cents a 
pound. It is folly to use No. 2 at a cost of $10. A 
mixture of 1,200 pounds of No. 1 and 800 pounds ' 
cotton-seed meal would make a fair fertilizer. Or if 
you can use 1,000 pounds of No. 1, 600 pounds of 
cotton-seed meal and add separately 400 pounds of 
cotton-hull ashes, you would have a still better com¬ 
bination. 
A Fortune in Cheap Fertilizer. 
F. A. C., Cherokee, Tex .—I can get all the hard-wood ashes I wish 
from a gin within one mile of my farm. I can get all the sheep 
manure I wish by going five miles ; the manure has been lying 
exposed four years. Would it pay to haul the ashes and manure, 
or either, as they would cost only the hauling? If so, would you 
recommend one part ashes and one part manure for corn, or in 
what proportion? Would the ashes do to put on my peach 
orchard ? 
Ans. —This is a wonderful chance to obtain cheap 
fertility. The ashes are especially valuable,-and we 
would haul all we could get of them. The^sheep 
manure and ashes will give excellent results on corn. 
On sod, we would use equal parts by bulk. On bare 
ground,] we^would use twice as much of the sheep 
