216 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
March 28 
right-hand end, which admits of a place fora granary 
or for machinery, or, in a ground barn, for a stable. 
Decks are also represented over the driveways, which 
admit of the best place for oat, bran and meal bins, 
out of the way, but spouted down to the feeding- 
rooms below. JOHN L. SIIAWVER. 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
the writer to insure attention. Before asking a question please 
see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper. J 
Unfruitful Plum Trees ; Borers. 
./. A. 0., Courtney, Pa. —I have nine Marianna plum trees, eight 
years old, that bloom profusely every spring. Fruit forms and 
grows to the size of cherries, then turns yellow, and seldom more 
than a dozen remain on the trees until ripe. I find plenty of cur- 
culio on these trees, and last season jarred them until I could 
find none; but the plums fell off all the same. What is the cause ? 
Borers are using up the trees badly, and I also found, the past 
season, some on some of my younger trees of Beauty of Naples 
and Imperial Gage varieties. Shall I treat them in the same way 
as peach trees ? 
Ans.—M arianna plum is deficient in pollen that is 
potent upon its own stigmas, and this variety should 
have some other near it. This is, probably, why the 
fruit drops after setting. Almost any variety that 
blooms at the same time, will do, such as Hattie, 
Itaska or De Caradeuc, of the native American 
species or almost any of the Japanese kinds, as they 
bloom about with Marianna. If J. A. G., or any one 
in like predicament, will graft varieties that bloom 
at the same time with these old and unfertile plum 
or other fruit trees, on a few of their upper branches, 
there will be potent pollen available very soon after, 
but, why not dig up the Marianna trees and plant 
better kinds, unless there is a profitable market for 
the fruit? It is bitter, and makes jelly or sauce that 
goes begging for some one to eat it at our table. If 
borers are destroying J. A. G.’s plum trees, they must 
be on peach stocks. The best way to rid trees of 
borers is thoroughly and persistently to dig them out. 
If done once in August and again in October, there 
ought to be very few or none left. 
H. K. VAN DEMAN. 
An Orchard of Rich Red Apples. 
./. F. W., Marlboro, N. Y.— Is there any difference between Stay- 
man’s Winesap apple and the Wiuesap ? What about the Gano 
and Akin apples ? Where can I get some scions from bearing 
trees ? Are the above varieties of apples annual bearers ? What 
four varieties are the very best for market, such as have good 
size, high color, are attractive, red and good yielders annually ? 
The field I wish to plant is low, black top soil, with a clay sub¬ 
soil, well-drained. 
Ans. —Stayman (Winesap should be dropped from 
the name to simplify it), is a seedling of Winesap, 
grown by Dr. J. Stayman of Leavenworth, Kan., and 
resembles its parent very closely in color, shape, sea¬ 
son and quality ; but is larger, and the tree is much 
better in shape. I fruited it in Kansas many years 
ago. Gano is a chance seedling found by W. G. Gano 
of Missouri, in an old orchard in that State. It is of 
medium size, very brilliant red, fair quality, and a 
late keeper. Akin is a Western apple of high char¬ 
acter. It is of medium size, very red color, tender 
flesh, delicate flavor and keeps fairly well. For fancy 
market or family use, it is worthy of extended trial. 
I think that scions from bearing trees of all may be 
had of J. W. Kerr of Denton, Md., or of Charles 
Wright of Seaford, Del. My advice to J. F. W. would 
be to plant one-half his orchard to York Imperial, 
and if he is determined to have four varieties, divide 
the other half about equally between Sutton, Akin 
and Jonathan. H. K. v D. 
What Stock for Apple Grafting ? 
E. P. C., Bridge Valley. Pa.—I wish to plant an apple orchard, 
and to graft the trees with Smith’s Cider scions from trees in my 
own orchard, which I know to be of first quality. What variety of 
apples shall I plant ? In one I planted last year, I used the Bald¬ 
win as a stock, arguing that the Baldwin would give me a vigor¬ 
ous growth, and if the stock should affect the fruit in any way, it 
would improve the quality and color. Was I right ? 
Ans.—I f E. P. C. prefers to set top grafts from his 
own orchard in thrifty nursery trees, the Baldwin is 
a very suitable variety to use as a stock in Pennsyl¬ 
vania. Ben Davis would be fully as good for the same 
use. I do not believe that the stock will transfer its 
color or flavor to the fruit that may grow on the 
grafts. h. k. v. d. 
Some Apples for New York. 
B. M. L., Monticello, N. Y.— How do the Keswick Codlin and 
Tetofsky apples compare with the Bed Astracban as to quality 
aud earliness ? Are they good producers ? How about the Yellow 
Transparent ? 
Ans.—T etofsky is earlier and smaller than Red 
Astrachan ; Red Astrachan is, probably, the most 
valuable summer apple, all things considered, being 
high colored and handsome. Keswick Codlin ripens 
with Red Astrachan, but continues longer, and is con¬ 
sidered valuable for cooking; the tree bears early and 
heavily. ellwanger * barky. 
Something About Mushroom Culture. 
J.B. 0., Colden, N. Y. —Will The R. N.-Y. describe mushroom 
culture, how to get the start, and the necessary conditions ? 
Ans. —Mushrooms may be grown in any place where 
a temperature of 50 or 60 degrees F. may be main¬ 
tained during the winter. A cellar, stable, shed, 
space under the greenhouse benches, or any other 
out-of-the way place, no matter how dark, is suitable. 
With fresh horse manure, an equal bulk of good, clean 
soil is mixed, and made into solid beds eight or ten 
inches deep. These are made on the cellar floor, and 
additional ones may be made on shelves. This will 
heat, and when the heat declines to 90 or 95 degrees, 
the spawn is inserted. The bed is then covered with 
one or two inches of fresh loam, after a few days, and 
this with a few inches of hay or straw as a mulch. 
The beds are kept well watered. The time to start 
mushrooms is about the beginning of December. Deal¬ 
ers in spawn generally furnish necessary directions. 
What About the Triumph Peach ? 
A. E., Salem, Utah .— Canyou give me any information relating to 
the merits of the Triumph peach, advertised by Jos. H. Black, Son 
<fc Co., Hightstown, N. J. ? 
Ans. —It originated in Georgia, and has not been 
fully tested in the North. It is claimed that it is the 
earliest yellow-fleshed peach in the country. It ripens 
with Alexander, is fair in quality, and a good shipper. 
Paragon and Ridgeley Chestnuts Compared. 
G. 0. T., W hite Plains, N. Y .— Which is the more promising of 
the two new large chestnuts, the Paragon and Ridgeley ? Some 
nurserymen recommend one and some the other. I think 
earliness in ripening a very important point. I have seen it 
stated that the Ridgeley needed some other variety near by to help 
fertilize the blossoms. 
Ans. —Our impression is that the Ridgeley needs pol¬ 
len from other trees. In size, it is somewhat smaller 
than the Paragon. In quality, it is better. In fact, 
it is as good as our natives. The trees grow to a large 
size, though they begin to fruit early—three years. 
We cannot answer as to the relative productiveness 
of the two varieties. We would say that it would be 
difficult to find a more abundant bearer than the Para¬ 
gon. But then the trees are dwarf. The Ridgeley 
ripens a trifle earlier than the Paragon. 
Some Fertilizers for Strawberries. 
A. G. W., Reidenbach's Store, Pa. —I have i 'A acre that I desire 
to set to strawberries this spring. The soil is limestone, and rich 
enough to produce a fair crop of corn. Not having any stable 
manure, what should I apply which would contain sufficient food 
to mature a large crop of berries ? I wish to apply the fertilizer 
before setting the plants. 
Ans. —It is simply a question as to whether you 
will find it more profitable to buy a ready-mixed fer¬ 
tilizer, or mix the chemicals yourself. In the former 
case, any of the special mixtures for fruits advertised 
i Q J-he R. N.-Y., will answer. For home mixing, we 
advocate the use of finely-ground bone to supply 
nitrogen and phosphoric acid. As to potash, if 
unleached wood ashes of fair quality can be obtained 
for $9 a ton, we would use them with the bone—equal 
parts by weight. If such ashes cost more than $9 a 
ton, we would use muriate of potash, one part muriate 
to three parts of bone. An exception to this advice 
should be made where the soil is sour. In that case, 
the lime in the ashes will be found necessary, and one 
can well afford to pay $11 a ton. 
A Batch of Fruit Questions from Illinois. 
b.,/. B. , Vermilion, 111. —My tbree-year-old orchard is mulched 
witli this year’s half-rotten clover straw for about two feet around 
the tree and six inches deep. The mulch is close to the trees. 
Would you move it, and when ? How far ? I have cultivated for 
three feet in the rows of trees; the rest of the ground is in 
clover and Timothy ? Would you still cultivate and not bother 
to mulch ? I am within 20 miles of a city of 40,000, miles 
from a railroad station. Would there be any money in raising 
currants for market ? Do the Chicago prices justify it ? If so, 
what kind would I better set? When, aud how? Is there any¬ 
thing that will kill the currant worms without endangering the 
fruit ? Is the currant a tolerably sure crop for this locality ? 
Ans.—M y objections to a mulch for trees are that it 
brings the roots to the surface, and is a harbor for 
mice. Some of these bright spring mornings, the one 
who mulches is liable to go out into his orchard and 
find many trees ruined by mice, as I have done. If a 
heavy mulch be removed in the spring and summer, 
and a drought follow, the trees suffer. If removed 
in the fall, and a severe winter follow, the trees suffer. 
This is one of the objections to planting strawberries 
in a young orchard, as I have learned from the loss of 
many trees. If I were in W. J. B.’s place, I would 
shove away the mulch a couple of feet, and let it 
gradually rot and wear away. I would cultivate the 
spaces and plant to corn, potatoes, etc., but not wheat 
or oats. 
Currants have paid for several years. No man can 
tell as to the future. I would rather cultivate a home 
market than to depend on Chicago—everybody sends 
to Chicago, and often Chicago ships right back to your 
home market. Plant one or two-year-old plants in 
rows eight feet apart and five feet in the row. W. 
J. B. can even plant them along his tree rows with 
success. Victoria is a good red currant, and I think 
that he will find the White Grape a very productive 
white kind. The Long Bunch Holland is extremely 
late, and sells on a bare market, but, although ex¬ 
tremely vigorous, it is not very productive. New 
varieties should be tested in a small way. If the cur¬ 
rant worm comes early, I use an arsenical spray ; if 
later, on account of danger, better use hellebore or 
insect powder. b. buckman. 
Shall Potatoes Follow Potatoes ? 
C. W. R., Pleasant Valley, Va.—\. Last year, my potatoes, 
planted in April, grew vigorously until about tlie time that tubers 
began forming, when blight struck them. The vines wilted and 
finally died, and, of course, the crop was an entire failure. Now, 
as I would like to have the benefit of the special fertilizer used, I 
would be glad to know whether or not it would be considered safe 
to plant the same plot again to potatoes this year. 2. As it is 
seldom we get a good stand from late planting in this locality, 
would it oe advisable to plant Rural No. 2 and Carman No. 1 as 
early as April 1 ? 
Ans. —1. We cannot say whether it would be safe to 
plant potatoes again on this field or not; most per¬ 
sons would say that it would not be safe. We have 
this bit of experience to give, however : In The R. 
N.-Y. potato contest, about seven years ago, we lost 
the crop because of blight. The next year, potatoes 
were grown upon the same plot, and there was no 
blight whatever. Our friend should bear in mind that 
the fertilizer which he used has lost its nitrogen. 2 . 
Yes, the first of April or even earlier. 
Grain and Grass on a Swamp. 
•T.V.E., Waterville, Me. —What method of cropping and fer¬ 
tilizing (stable manure is outof the question), will most effectively 
and cheaply put Into Timothy an old swamp that was under¬ 
drained and plowed last fall ? The soil is six to eight inches of 
muck over clay. Would you let it lie fallow this coming season ? 
Ans. —If the land can be made reasonably smooth, 
sow as early as possible, one-half bushel of oats per 
acre. Should there be so much available nitrogen in 
the soil as to produce a very large growth which 
might fall down, cut the oats when coming into head, 
or a little later for hay, or better still, use the green 
oats in the stables as soon as they will do. This will 
help out the pastures. It is quite probable that barley 
would be better than oats if the seed can be easily 
procured, but in no case should an attempt be made 
to allow the grain to head and save it for the ordinary 
purpose, if it is likely to fall down so that it cannot 
be harvested without leaving much straw on the 
ground. Plow shallow immediately after the oats 
are cut, and harrow and roll often ; that is, try to get 
the ground packed down except an inch or two at the 
surface. Before harrowing this spring, treat the land 
to 20 bushels of quicklime, and it might be well to 
give an additional dressing of 10 bushels before the 
last harrowing in the fall, preparatory to sowing the 
Timothy seed. Much of the success will depend upon 
getting the grass seeds in early, and the condition of 
the weather. The Timothy should be sowed by the 
first to the middle of September, and if the soil be 
moist enough to bring it up, it should get a good hold 
on the soil before winter. Of course, after sowing 
the seeds, the ground should be rolled. 
Row to Treat Potato Ground. 
J. A. G., Courtney, Pa.— I purpose planting, this coming season, 
three acres of potatoes on a loose loam, with a western exposure, 
and a clay subsoil. It was sowu to oats last season, with the ex¬ 
ception of one-half acre which was in potatoes. This half acre 
was heavily top-dressed last spring with manure. On account 
of a very dry season, the oats were poor. I plowed this ground 
last December from six to nine inches deep. I wish to grow, at 
least, 200 bushels of potatoes per acre. How can I do it ? I shall 
have to depend on fertilizers. How much will I have to use per 
acre, and how should it analyze ? What varieties should I plant ? 
When shall I plant? What is the best mode of culture? Shall I 
plow the ground again ? 
Ans.— Our plan would be to plow again and harrow 
thoroughly. Then plow wide trenches and plant 
four inches deep, using seed of, at least, two eyes 
with all the flesh possible. We would use not less 
than 1,000 pounds to the acre of a fertilizer analyzing 
as follows : Nitrogen, 4 per cent; phosphoric acid, 10 
per cent; potash, 6 per cent. Sow this in the trenches 
after the seed pieces are lightly covered. Our choice 
of varieties would be Carman Nos. 1 and 3. We 
would advise our friend to go over our potato reports 
and to examine the catalogues. Sir William seems to 
be a popular sort. We would plant as soon as the 
land can be put in fine order. 
Pumpkins for Dairy Cows. 
P. S. t ., Kirkwood, N. J .— I would like the experience of readers 
in feeding pumpkins to dairy cows. What is the effect on the 
quality aud quantity of the milk ? Should the seeds be removed ? 
Ans. —I have fed pumpkins to dairy cows with good 
success, and consider them worth, as feed, at least, 
$2 per ton. I would feed from one-half bushel to one 
bushel per day to each cow. If one bushel be fed, it 
should be given in two feeds. Slice them with a 
knife, and feed in the manger. This is not a very big 
job, as my father will slice them as fast as my hired 
man and I can cut them open and scoop out the seeds. 
As to the effect on the quality of the milk, I would 
say that I am satisfied that it is all right. I have 
