352 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
May 23 
VINES FOR GARDEN AND LAWN. 
Clematis vitalba, Virginiana and paniculata are 
valuable for planting where rapid growing vines with 
feathery, white flowers are desired. Flamula, the 
sweet-scented one, is not so rapid a grower. As a 
rule, English ivy does not cling well to plastered 
walls. It prefers brick or stone, probably finding 
some roothold in the mortar spaces which usually 
exist in such structures. Let a trumpet vine or a 
honeysuckle wander up a decayed tree, or over a 
fallen one, and you will have a beautiful picture the 
whole summer long, especially when the vines flower 
in the summer time. 
It is a mistake to set grape vines in advance of 
some support, as many do. All sorts of vines grow 
faster when supports are at hand for them to cling 
to ; without them, their energies seem spent in trying 
to find something of the kind. The old Boursault 
answers admirably for a crimson, climbing, hardy 
rose, and it is almost thornless. The tea, Gloire de 
Dijon, with flesh-colored flowers, is quite hardy in 
this State, and blooms all summer long. For porches, 
no vine is more useful than the Akebia quinata. It 
is rapid growing, has beautiful leaves, and bears 
plum-colored, sweet-scented flowers soon after its 
leaves unfold. It seems perfectly hardy, even in cold 
Chicago. The Japanese ivy, Ampelopsis Veitchii, is 
the vine for positions where a close growing one is 
required ; but for many—such as low walls, rockeries, 
and the like—the Virginia creeper should be planted. 
Both are noted for their handsome foliage in the fall. 
The Dutchman’s Pipe, Aristolochia sipho, once a 
favorite here, is less popular nowadays, for the reason 
that its foliage is eaten by a huge, black beetle, 
which seems to rejoice when it meets with this and 
clematis vines. 
The bitter-sweet, Celastrus scandens, is famed for 
its scarlet-colored fruit in the fall. It does not pro¬ 
duce its fruit until the vine is quite strong. A foreign 
species, articulata, fruits abundantly when quite small 
Dolichos Japonicus, about which a great deal has 
been written lately, bears leaves almost like the Lima 
bean. It is a rapid, strong grower, but it takes many 
years before it makes wood that will live above 
ground over winter. It bears rosy purple flowers. 
Many in the North have tried to raise the Carolina 
jasmine, Gelsimium sempervirens, of which they be¬ 
come enamored after seeing it festooning the trees of 
the South. But even no further north than Philadel¬ 
phia, the tops get partly winterkilled, which prevents 
it getting strong enough to flower. The Chinese Wis¬ 
taria forms an interesting small tree when desired, 
as well as being a useful vine. Tie it to a stake for 
two or three years, at the end of which time it will 
support itself. Cut the top off at whatever height is 
desired, say, at five feet from the ground. 
Pennsylvania. _ Joseph meehan. 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
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see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper.] 
A GROUP OF INSECT DEPREDATORS. 
ANSWERS BY M. V. SI.INGERLANI). 
A Case of Rusted Wheat. 
G. J. It., Chetopa, Kan .—What causes the wheat to die at the 
roots and rust at the top at this time of the year ? Can the fly 
affect it and make it look like this ? The field smells just as 
though it was getting ripe. Damaged seed was sown about 
September 1. Two and a half bushels were sown per acre, and 
made only an average stand. 
I could find no indications of the work of insects on 
the stalks of wheat sent. I think that the presence 
of a large amount of the fungus known as Wheat rust, 
which the samples showed, and the fact that damaged 
seed was sown, are enough to account for the 
unhealthy and dying condition of the shoots, even 
early in the season. One stage of the rust fungus is 
able to survive the winter on the plants, and to re¬ 
produce itself indefinitely, thus accounting for its 
presence at almost any season of the year. No success¬ 
ful method of checking this Wheat rust has yet been 
found. 
Printers’ Ink on Trees. 
J. 1). P., Providence, R. /.—Will it injure the bark of trees, or in 
anyway injure the trees, to apply printers’ ink in the same man¬ 
ner and for the same purpose that you note in the article on 
Dendrolene, page 258 ? 
I do not know. Printers’ ink has been used to 
band trees for canker worms, but I know of no ex¬ 
periments to test its effect upon the bark when ap¬ 
plied directly to the bark in varying amounts. I 
doubt whether the ink could be used so freely as the 
Dendrolene. Could it be procured as cheaply ? 
The Oyster-shell Bark Louse. 
C. N. R., Canton, Pa. — I send a piece of bark taken from one of 
my apple trees. It is covered with these insects which are liter¬ 
ally killing it. I have several trees affected this way; they.are 
about 30 years old. I have a young orchard of 300 trees set 10 
years, that I am afraid will be troubled in the same way. 
The piece of bark bore an alarming collection of the 
scale insect most common here in the East. It is 
known as the Oyster-shell Bark louse (Mytilaspis 
pomorum). Although it attacks some other fruit and 
several forest trees, thus far, the apple tree has suf¬ 
fered the most During the winter, the only life to 
be found in the scales is contained in the numerous 
white eggs with which the scales are packed full 
underneath. The mother scales laid the eggs last 
fall, and their lifeless scales really serve as protecting 
homes for the eggs during the winter. The eggs 
hatch in May into active little creatures which move 
about the tree until they find a suitable place, when 
they establish themselves and begin sucking the sap 
from the tissues and, also, begin the secretion of the 
scale that is to protect their soft bodies. There is 
but one brood in a year ; those which hatch in May, 
get full grown by fall, and lay the eggs which hiber¬ 
nate. After the scale has formed, it is difficult to 
kill these creatures without injuring the tree. But 
in May and early June, the young, tender insects are 
not so well protected, and will succumb to a thorough 
drenching with kerosene emulsion diluted with about 
eight or nine parts of water. It is a good plan to 
scrape oft' all of the scales possible during the winter, 
and before May in the spring. After June 15, it will 
be difficult to check the pest with the spray. 
To Drive Flies Out of Stables. 
G. K., Bradshaw, Neb. — I have seen in Thk R. N.-Y., various 
ways for keeping flies out of the stable. I give my method which 
I find very effectual : Take one ounce of camphor gum, one ounce 
of corrosive sublimate, one pint of oil of turpentine; grind the 
sublimate thoroughly, put into a strong bottle, and add the cam¬ 
phor gum. Pour on the turpentine, and shake occasionally. It 
should be fit for use in 30 hours. Heat a piece of iron and drop a 
few drops on it in the stable. Flies may be driven out of the 
bouse in the same manner by dropping a few drops on a hot stove 
lid. By following these directions every other day, I think, any 
one will soon be rid of the flies. I would like to try it this coming 
season on cattle for the horn flies. Can The R. N.-Y.tell me what 
would be the best to mix with it to keep it from blistering V Would 
tallow be good ? 
G. K.’s combination is a strong one chemically, and 
might work in the stables against the Horn fly. I 
would not care to advise its use in any mixture 
directly on the cattle. Kerosene emulsion is much 
easier to make, is safe to use, and is proving a good 
thing for the purpose desired. Some spray it on the 
cattle, diluting it with 10 to 15 parts of water, when 
they are in the stables. It kills the flies then on the 
stock, and its odor serves to keep the flies off during 
the day. It takes but a moment to spray a cow on 
the parts most frequented by the flies. A knapsack 
sprayer is a very handy tool for this purpose. Those 
who begin this treatment early in the season, claim 
that after a week or so, the flies are very much les¬ 
sened in numbers, and are rarely troublesome during 
the rest of the season. 
What Will Kill Root Lice ? 
R. B., Farmingdale, III.— What is the up-to-date method of fight¬ 
ing the root aphides ? I think that they cause as much trouble in 
the orchard as any insect I can name. 1 have used ashes around 
small trees, with, apparently, beneficial effect, but would like 
more light on the subject. 
I do not know that anything new has recently been 
suggested in the way of fighting the root aphides. 
B. B., doubtless, has reference to the Wooly aphis, 
which is a very serious pest in some western localities. 
Curiously enough, although the insect is common here 
in the East, we rarely hear of its doing noticeable 
injury. I can suggest no practicable method of 
destroying the lice on the roots of large trees. Where 
very badly infested, I believe that it will be cheaper 
to destroy the trees and set the field to other kinds of 
fruit trees or devote it to other crops. If great care 
be taken when the trees are set, I believe that much 
of the trouble may be averted. If there are any 
suspicious, knotty swellings on the roots, dip the 
whole tree in strong soapsuds, tobacco decoction, or 
kerosene emulsion. Perhaps carbon bisulphide can 
be injected into the ground in such practicable quan¬ 
tities as to be effective. The Peach-root aphis here 
in the sandy regions of the East, is said to succumb to 
tobacco dust applied freely around the base of the 
tree, and then dug in around the roots. 
Use of Bordeaux Mixture on Apples. 
E. II. W., Mendon Centre, N. Y.— When and how shall I apply 
the Bordeaux Mixture to apple trees ? 
There are few apple orchards that will not well re- 
pay, at least three applications of Bordeaux Mixture ; 
and it is always advisable to use Paris-green with the 
fungicide at each application. One application should 
be made a few days before the flowers open, then 
wait until the petals of the blossoms fall—never spray 
a tree while it is in blossom—and make the second 
application. The third spraying should be applied 
about a week or tea days after the second. The Bor¬ 
deaux Mixture is to check the Apple-scab fungus, and 
the Paris-green kills the Bud-eating caterpillars, Tent 
caterpillars Codling moth worms and others. Unless 
the spraying be done very thoroughly, so that every 
bud is well coated, it is, usually, a waste of energy 
and money. Use about one pound of the Paris-green 
to 150 gallons of the Bordeaux Mixture. The ques¬ 
tion of how to apply the spray depends upon the size 
and number of the trees. In any case, I believe that 
it will pay in the end, to get one of the best and 
strongest pumps now on the market, and make a 
business of spraying, the same as one cultivates 
garden crops. Let E. H. W. hold the nozzle himself 
until he can train a man to understand what is wanted. 
AILING ANIMALS. 
ANSWER8 BY DR. F. L. KILBORNE. 
Vertigo or Megrims in a Horse. 
IK IK, Brookfield, Conn .—Wbat Is the trouble with my horse? 
Every time I have started to go to the field with a load of manure, 
the horse, after going two or three rods, begins to stagger, and, 
several times, has fallen, once breaking the wagon pole. He re¬ 
covers in about one minute, and is all right until I start with 
another load. He is between eight and ten years old, perfectly 
healthy, in good condition, and sound with the exception of being 
blind for the past five years, from periodic optbalmia. Until the 
past week, he has never shown any of the above symptoms. His 
feed has been four quarts of a mixtur e, one-half bran and one- 
half corn-and-cob meal, twice a day, and every other day, four 
quarts of potatoes. The team has not been used much the past 
winter, and it is possible that the horse has been fed heavier than 
before. 
The symptoms indicate vertigo or megrims, result¬ 
ing from cerebral congestion. This congestion of the 
brain is most commonly due to an ill or tight-fitting 
collar, that prevents the free return of the venous 
blood from the head. The congestion may also be 
due to reflex irritation, disease of the heart, severe 
exertion, or to overheating. Fat anima Is are especially 
liable to the attacks. In the present case, I suspect 
that the trouble is due to a collar that is too small, 
or fits too closely under the neck, together, perhaps, 
with the fact that the horse may be too fat. Make 
sure that the collar fits properly, and is large enough 
so as not to compress the jugular veins of the neck. 
Lf the attacks continue, stop the horse as soon as the 
first symptoms are shown, raise or remove the collar, 
and dash cold water over the head, lf the horse do 
not recover at once, rub the legs vigorously, either 
dry or with mustard water. Walking is desirable, as 
soon as the horse is able to move about. In severe 
cases, bleeding from the jugular vein is resorted to 
with advantage. 
Glander Heaves in a Horse. 
IK. E. E., Peru, N. 7.-5Iy seven-year-old mare, has a thick, 
whitish discharge from both nostrils, especially after being 
driven ; also, a slight, hacking cough. She has been bothered in 
this way about 15 months. Her appetite is not very good. In other 
ways, she seems to be in good health. What can I give to relieve 
her ? 
The horse is suffering from chronic bronchitis, a 
condition commonly called “glander heaves” by horse¬ 
men. There is nothing glanderous about the affec¬ 
tion, but the condition is often a precursor of heaves. 
Steam the head at evening, two or three times a week, 
by feeding a hot bran mash from a bucket. If the 
horse refuse to work over or eat the mash while 
sufficiently hot to steam the head, suspend the mash 
in a bag hung over the nose for a few minutes. Also 
feed one of the following powders in the feed night 
and morning : Powdered nux vomica and sulphate of 
copper, of each three ounces ; arsenic, 70 grains ; mix 
and make into 30 powders. If the horse is inclined to 
costiveness, give one pint of raw linseed oil every two 
or three days until the bowels are relaxed. Care 
must be taken that the horse is not exposed so as to 
be chilled and take cold during the treatment. The 
diet should be much the same as for heaves. Only 
bright, clean food should be given, and hay or other 
coarse fodder fed only in moderate quantity. If pos¬ 
sible, substitute grass or other green food for the hay. 
Two Homemade Veterinary Methods. 
J. II. M., New Baltimore, Mich.—l. On page 266, E. J. R. inquires 
what food or medicine will best induce a cow to clean after calv¬ 
ing. I have had success, so far, with my method. Cook eight or 
ten good-sized onions in lard, and feed warm. Roll in cabbage 
leaf or tissue paper, and put down the throat. 2. Many times it is 
convenient to care for a cow in the daytime, and Isend my method 
that has been tried for three generations, and never failed with 
us. When drying a cow, milk the last milking on Sunday, and 
she will calve in the daytime. I would like to hear from Dr. Kil- 
borne upon this subject. 
1. Onions are slightly stimulant and diuretic. I am 
of the opinion that they have little, if any, effect on 
the expulsion of the afterbirth. Even if they had in 
larger doses, the quantity given is too small to have 
any appreciable effect upon a cow. It is probable 
that J. H. M. has had no case of obstinate retention, 
so that any of his cows would have expelled the after¬ 
birth naturally, and just as well if the onions had 
not been giveD. 2. It is ridiculous to suppose that 
milking a cow the last time on Sunday will exert any 
influence in the time of her calving. This whim is on 
a par with an old whim of some horsemen, that if 
