1896 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
625 
see that Mr. John Craig, of the Canadian Horticultural 
Hureau, rather sides with those who decry these 
plums ; but I feel sure that further experience will 
greatly modify his judgment on this point. My Rus¬ 
sian plum trees are set in what would generally be 
called a very poor place ; being a sandy knoll; but 
this surface soil is underlaid by a tough clay, extend¬ 
ing to an unknown depth—giving, I think, better 
conditions than if it were all clay. 
I send herewith a small box of a late variety (the 
early sorts being past their time), having been desir¬ 
ous of testing the whole list, so far as they have yet 
fruited. My experience has determined me to go 
largely into the culture of these plums, for which I 
have a good market. I am desirous to set the exact 
truth on this subject before that portion of Tiie R. 
N.-Y.’s readers whose home is, like my own, in the 
cold North. To those more favorably located, the 
matter is of less interest, except, perhaps, as indicat¬ 
ing a future lessening demand. The difference of 
season will, however, reduce this considerably. 
T. H. HOSKINS. 
[The plums were of medium size—two inches long 
by in width—dark purple in color, partially free 
stone, firm flesh, tough skin, and in quality, a combi¬ 
nation of more acid and sugar than we find in any of 
the Japan plums. The acidity predominates.— Eds ] 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
the writer to insure attention. Before asking a question please 
see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper.] 
Preserving Figs. 
F. C. Z., Brooklyn, N. Y.—How can I treat figs? I have a fig 
tree which bears considerable fruit every year, but I don’t know 
how to dry or preserve it. 
Ans —It would be useless to try to dry figs in theviein- 
ity of Brooklyn, N. Y., or for several hundred miles 
south of there ; because the few that may be grown 
in well-protected places, or by laying down the little 
trees in winter, are worth more to eat fresh or to 
preserve. When preserved, they are most delicious, 
and the process is not difficult. A syrup should be 
made of sugar, and well boiled until it is thick. Then 
put in the figs and continue the boiling until they be¬ 
come translucent and well done. Put into cans or 
jars, sealed or unsealed. Some persons take out the 
fruit after it is cooked and partially dry it in the sun 
in dishes before canning, in which case the syrup and 
fruit may be again heated before being put away 
finally, to destroy any lurking germs of ferment. 
H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Growing Lettuce at the South. 
J. S., Blackshear, Ga.—l wish to grow a quantity of lettuce for 
the winter market. What is a good method of culture in the 
South ? Is it necessary to protect the crop from frost ? We seldom 
have more than 10 degrees of frost here ? What is the best variety 
for the purpose ? New York will be the principal market. Is 
there any particular way of packing for shipment? 
ANSWERED BY PBOF. W. F. MASSEY. 
Glass pays as well in the South as it does in the 
North. Our southern gardeners, as soon as they begin 
to think about winter protection or forwarding plants, 
take to the miserable substitute for glass called plant 
cloth, which is merely a shelter from a little cold, 
but really retards plants by its shade, and is, in the 
long run, more expensive than glass. We grow let¬ 
tuce here under sashes in a simple cold frame, just 
as perfectly as it is grown in fire-heated houses in the 
North. It is true that a great part of the time, we 
need no glass at all, but when we do need it, we need 
it bad, as you will sometimes. 
We sow for the Christmas crop the first of Septem¬ 
ber (have just sown the first seeds). These are sown 
on the open border, and transplanted to the frames 
about the middle of October. The seeds are sown 
thinly, so as to get stout plants. For this crop, we 
use the Boston Market lettuce, as it can be planted 
about seven inches each way in the frames. As soon 
as the plants are set in the frames, we put the glass 
on and shade them for a few days, keeping the glass 
rather close till they recover. Then the glass is 
stripped off, and is not put on any more till the 
nights get frosty. The sashes are stripped off every 
sunny day, and during every warm rain, putting them 
on only in cold weather when cloudy, and during 
cold nights. The idea is to keep up a regular growth 
at all times, but not to have the lettuce grow flabby 
by being kept too warm. This crop should be ready 
to cut by the Christmas holidays, and the frames 
should be again manured and replanted from plants 
outside sown the last of September and middle of 
October. 
The soil should be light and sandy, and if some¬ 
what gravelly, so much the better, as lettuce seems 
to delight in a gravelly soil, and will not thrive in a 
clay. Bear in mind that the soil in the frames cannot 
be made too rich, if you want good lettuce. The chief 
care must be to_keep it from getting badly frosted, 
and at the same time to keep it from growing so ten¬ 
der that a slight freeze will scorch the leaves. 
In cutting for shipment, trim off the dead and yel¬ 
low leaves under the heads, dip each in cold water, 
and pack in close boxes or layers, stems upwards. 
Always cut before the sun gets warm in the morning, 
but never when frosted. Tuck the outer leaves in 
neatly under each head, and pack rather closely. Ship 
in tight cars. The second crop will come on in Feb¬ 
ruary, and the same treatment must be observed. For 
the second crop, I prefer to plant the Big Boston, as 
it will sell better at that time. It must have a foot 
room each way. If one put up good frames, and use 
the 3x6-foot hotbed sashes, he will never fail to use 
glass thereafter. We get these sashes here made 
with grooves to slip the glass in end to end, and do 
not lap or putty them. The sashes cost about $1.25 
each, and will last a lifetime if kept painted. 
Asparagus and Rhubarb Culture. 
8. B. S., Chepachet, R. /.—What soils are required for rhubarb 
and asparagus ? What are the most profitable varieties ? When 
would you advise setting the roots ? What do you know of Eaton 
rhubarb? An agent gave it a great recommendation, but I fail 
to find it mentioned in any of the leading catalogues. He also 
talked very boastingly of the Donald Almira asparagus, and I 
also fail to see this variety mentioned in any catalogue which 
I have. 
Ans. —As to asparagus, it doesn’t matter materially 
whether the roots be planted in the spring or fall, if 
the land or plot be thoroughly prepared. One can 
hardly prepare the plot too well. Manure and culti¬ 
vation are the secret of successful asparagus culture. 
The trenches should be, at least, four feet apart and 
10 inches deep, the plants set not less than two feet 
apart in the trenches. Previously, the plot should 
have received at the rate of not less than 30 tons of 
rotted manure per acre. After the plants are set, a 
dressing of raw bone flour and unleached ashes will 
help to give the plants a vigorous growth, and give, the 
third year, large, tender stalks. As to varieties, it 
matters little. The R. N.-Y. has tried all of the 
assumed Kinds, such as Colossal, Barr’s Mammoth, 
Palmetto, Red Dutch, Argenteuil, Moore’s Crossbred, 
and finds so little difference between them under the 
same cultivation, that we would lay little stress upon 
selection. We know nothing of the kinds our friend 
mentions, and would advise him not to pay an extra 
price for them. For 100 roots, he should not pay more 
than $1. As to rhubarb, as with asparagus, set either 
spring or fall as one may find more convenient. Pre¬ 
pare the land as for asparagus, using plenty of 
manure. Set the plants, at least, four feet apart each 
way. Linnaeus and Victoria are the best. We know 
nothing of the “Eaton.” 
Value of Northern-Grown Seed. 
8. D. B., Macon, Va.—l. Do northern-growu seeds do better than 
those acclimated in this locality ? 2. Do seeds grown in the same 
locality fora number of years lose in vitality or yielding quali¬ 
ties ? 3. What varieties of potatoes are best for Virginia ? 4. 
Will some of The It. N.-Y. readers give their experience in raising 
oats ? 5. From what varieties of corn did Tub R. N.-Y. get its 
large yield ? 
Ans.— 1. This question has never been settled, in so 
far as The R. N.-Y. is aware. Our opinion—an opin¬ 
ion only—is that if any kind of gram or any other 
plant is hardy in a certain locality, it will not be 
rendered less hardy by being cultivated in a more 
southerly climate. In other words, we do not believe 
that the hardiness of a given variety of seeds will be 
rendered less or more hardy by being cultivated north 
or south. 2. No, we should say not, provided due 
care be taken in selection. For example, we know of 
a case where the Early Ohio potato has been raised 
every year for the past 23 years, and it yields as well 
to day as when it was first introduced. The reason is 
that due care has been exercised in the selection of 
the seed potatoes. 3. We may not say. It is a ques¬ 
tion for Virginia farmers to settle for themselves. 4. 
Our readers will kindly answer. 5. Blount’s Prolific, 
a white dent corn bearing many small ears to a stalk, 
and Chester County Mammoth, which bears one or 
two very large ears of yellow dent. Both kinds are 
late in maturing. 
Small Farms On the Pacific Coast. 
J. K., Vernon, British Columbia.—1 own 20 acres of level land in 
western Washington; the soil is a dark clay loam, about four 
feet thick. It is located about five .miles from a railroad station 
and midway between two large cities, or 20 miles from each. The 
land is, at present, in glass. I purpose cultivating and giving 
my attention principally to fruit and poultry, also a truck gar¬ 
den, having had some experience in this line. 1. From such a 
small place, could I expect to make a living for myself and 
family? 2. How could such a place best be managed ? 3 What 
kinds of fruit are best adapted for that section ? 
Ans. —1. With favorable conditions other than those 
mentioned, I believe that a very comfortable living 
can be made from 20 acres of land. This is only pos¬ 
sible, however, when industry and thrift mark every 
step. 2. Plant 10 acres to orchard and small fruits ; 
the rest should furnish hay and forage for two small 
horses and two good cows. The grain should be pur¬ 
chased, for it is cheaper to buy than to try to raise 
grain on a small place. Two or three good pigs should 
be fattened each year for home use. Clover and 
vetches are good forage plants for western Washing¬ 
ton. Corn is also good for soiling purposes. Very 
nearly enough rough material can be grown on 10 
acres to feed two horses and two cows the year 
’round. 3. Five acres to apples, of the standard varie¬ 
ties, and only two or three varieties for the most part. 
Many times, a serious mistake is made by setting too 
many novelties One acre to cherries and pears, 
and three acres to small fruits, such as strawberries, 
raspberries, currants and blackberries. All of these 
find a good market in the inteiior towns of the North¬ 
west. Some vegetables might be grown among the 
fruit trees for the first two years. h. t. f. 
Notes On a Plank Frame Barn. 
W. If. B., Bucksport, Me. —1. Can a plank barn be built with a 
curb roof instead of a gable roof? 2. How large a stick is the 
purlin plate? 3. How are the different bents connected at the 
bottom? 4. In a barn with 18-foot posts, with a hay bay extend¬ 
ing from the ground up, would not the inside pressure, when 
filled with hay, make the barn bulge out on the sides and ends ? 
5. Is a barn built in this way, strong enough to admit of a silo 
being put in one corner ? 
Ans. —1. I receive letters inquiring whether the 
plank system permits of certain shapes, sizes and 
styles. In answer to all such, I will state that the 
system admits of any width up to 60 feet, and any 
length or height desired. It admits of square, rectan¬ 
gular, T or L-shape, hexagon or octagon, but not 
absolutely round- It admits of gable roof, gambrel, 
curb, mansard, French or Italian roof, hip roof, or 
gothic roof. 2. The purlin plate is made of two 2x8 
planks, but so constructed as to be equal to a 6x8 set 
edgewise. 3. The bents are connected by plank 
plates, nailers and sills, as well as by braces. 4. No, 
not if properly constructed, as we so insert braces as 
to counteract the tendency to bulge out. 5. Yes, but 
the silo should be built separately from the barn, just 
as in any other frame, to admit of repairs when the silo 
walls decay. The system will save you about $300 on 
a barn 40x60 feet, and on other dimensions, in about 
the same proportion. john l. shawveb. 
What is Oleomargarine '4 
M. It., Neu> York .—How can I tell the difference between butter 
and oleomargarine ? Is oleomargarine sometimes mixed in with 
butter ? 
Ans.—A s was stated in a recent issue of The R. N.- 
Y., 100 pounds of “ oleo ” contain about the following 
proportions, viz.: 34 pounds lard, 27 pounds oleo oil, 
12 pounds cottoD-seed oil, 18 pounds of milk, and nine 
pounds of salt. This mixture is churned together 
and colored to imitate butter. It is so cunningly 
done that only a careful chemical analysis by a skilled 
chemist, can show the difference. There is no doubt 
that “ oleo ” is sometimes mixed and sold with butter. 
How to Use Wood Ashes. 
W. II. C., Amoskeag, N. II .—I have aboutsix cords of hard-wood 
ashes which I wish to use in fitting ground for grass. My land is 
“pine plains”, rather light soil, but in fine condition. When, 
how and in what quantity should they be applied? I have thought 
some of plowing in manure, and then sowing the ashes to be har¬ 
rowed in on top with a smoothing harrow. About what is the 
average market value of ashes as a fertilizer for grass ground ? 
Ans. —Your plan of harrowing in the ashes after 
plowing, is the right one. We would use them this 
fall if the seed is to be sown in the fall, and would 
use one ton or more per acre. The value of wood 
ashes depends chiefly on the amounts of potash and 
phosphoric acid they contain. Probably $9 per ton is 
a fair value for an average sample. In addition to 
the potash and phosphoric acid, the ton of ashes will 
contain from 1,000 to 1,200 pounds of lime. On some 
soils—those inclined to be acid—this lime may be 
worth more than the actual plant food, not for feed¬ 
ing the plants, but for improving the chemical char¬ 
acter of the soil. 
Water for Constipation. 
F. 0. C., Washington, Kan .—I am troubled with constipation. 
A Country Doctor, page 543, says, “ A liberal use of water serves 
a good purpose here.” Will he give minute directions for its use 
to overcome chronic constipation ? 
Ans. —You may have noticed that the evacuations 
of the lower orders of the animal creation are affected 
by the kind of food they eat. If it be concentrated, 
containing little water, the evacuations are scanty 
and dry ; vice versa if bulky and holding much water 
in their composition, the evacuations are more copious 
and relaxed. Apply these observations to your own 
case. You may not have a stomach that will suffer 
you to adopt a diet of bulky, succulent vegetable 
food ; but you can, at any rate, make a practice of 
drinking plentifully of water, hot or cold, plain or 
flavored with some harmless addition, an hour before 
each meal. Taken in at this time, it will soon dis¬ 
appear from the stomach, and will not interfere with 
digestion. In this way, you may obtain a measure, at 
least, of the benefit that others derive from the expen¬ 
sive sojourns at celebrated mineral springs, w. o. k. 
