1896 
64i 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
The Farmers’ Club. 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
the writer to insure attention. Before asking a question please 
see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper.l 
A GRIST OF FRUIT QUESTIONS. 
ANSWERS BY H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Plums , Peaches , Grapes and Strawberries. 
V., Andersontown, ild. —1. I have 25 Wild Goose plum trees, 
about four years old, which have not borne any fruit. When the 
plums get about the size of a pigeon’s egg, they drop off and 
seem to be imperfect. What can I plant with the trees to fertilize 
the blossoms ? 2. Can peach trees be so pruned and cultivated 
that they will bear successfully every year? 3. How long can 
peaches be kept in cold storage? 4. Name the four best grapes 
for family use, and give a brief description of each. 5. At what 
time should strawberry beds be mulched ? 6. Can strawberry 
plants be raised from seed ? 
1. Top-graft Moreman plum scions in the tops of the 
trees. It will pollenize the Wild Goose. One or two 
good Moreman branches in each tree are plenty. 
Moreman trees planted in any space where the old 
trees have died, will do good service. 2. No. Head¬ 
ing back in winter and good cultivation, with abun¬ 
dant supplies of potash and phosphoric acid, and 
thoroughly thinning the fruit, will put them in as 
good condition to bear as can be done by the orchard- 
ist, but that will not prevent climatic or other troubles 
that may prevent bearing. 3. I have seen Heath 
Cling peaches kept in cold storage until Christmas, 
with profit, 30 years ago, but soft or delicate varie¬ 
ties are seldom worth much after being kept a month. 
Moreover, very few can be sold when out of season. 
4. Delaware : A small, red grape of the very highest 
quality. The vine is a moderate grower, but hardy 
in almost any grape section. Worden : Large, black, 
medium quality, early. The vine is very robust and 
productive. Brilliant: Medium size, red, choicest 
quality. It is thrifty, hardy and productive. Being 
one of the newer varieties, it is not so well known as 
some others, but it stands almost unrivaled for 
family use as a red grape, all points considered. The 
skin is so thin as almost to unfit it for a distant mar¬ 
ket. Niagara : Large, green, medium quality. The 
thrifty and productive character of the vine places it 
high in public favor. While several more lists of the 
same size might be made that are quite as good, this 
will not fail to please C., and any others who may 
wish to try it. 5. Mulch strawberries when freezing 
weather has fairly set in. About December 1 is the 
time in Maryland. 6. Strawberry plants are often 
raised from seed, but only for the purpose of getting 
new varieties. This seldom pays except in pleasure 
to those who like to experiment. 
What Ails the Plum Trees ? 
E. 3. B., Harwinton, Conn .—I have an Abundance plum tree 
three years old, which has seemed to be healthy until this sum¬ 
mer, when a part of the branches had withered leaves, which 
soon fell off. I could find no cause for the trouble, but those 
branches seem to be dead. Now, there is a gum-like substance 
on the outside of the bark, in places, and the bark is cracked. 
This is on the remainder of the tree on which there are three to 
six feet of new growth. What is the trouble and the remedy, if 
any ? Another tree, of the same variety, set near it at the same 
time, died two or three years ago. 
It is impossible for me to tell what is the matter 
with these plum trees, and I can offer no remedy 
other than to plant new trees. If this fatality con¬ 
tinue among E. S. B.’s trees, I would suggest sending 
specimens of the diseased parts to Mr. B. T. Gallo¬ 
way, United States Department of Agriculture at 
Washington, D. C., who may be able to give some 
information and assistance. 
Pruning Dwarf Pears. 
J. A. McP., Carrollton , 111 .—In the spring of 1894, I set out 40 
Duchess dwarf pear trees. The next spring, they bloomed pro¬ 
fusely, and bore a pear or two. Last spring, while they bloomed 
all right, they set no fruit, but have made an enormous growth— 
some of them as much as 10 feet. How much and when shall I 
cut them back ? 
These trees are, evidently, growing very rapidly, 
and all their force is going to wood. If cut back 
severely, and the stimulation in the soil continued, 
they will not bear soon. If the orchard is sown to 
grass (Orchard grass is preferable), and not pruned 
much, the trees will stop growing so rapidly, and 
bear. But the trees must be fed abundantly with 
potash and phosphoric acid, and the grass not allowed 
to choke them, but be plowed under and the land 
cultivated when bearing begins. 
Cooling Milk Without Ice. 
Several Subscribers.—We notice, in the southern agricultural 
papers, an advertisement of a device for cooling milk without the 
use of ice. The picture represents milk cans standing on a 
frame, one below the other, with water dripping down over them. 
Is this device practicable, and will this method really cool the 
milk ? 
Ans. —Prof. H. H. Harrington of the Texas Exper- 
ment Station, gives the following facts about this 
device : Porter’s Automatic Chemical Cooler and 
Creamer does not seem to be a success as tried at this 
station by Prof. Soule. The principle upon which it 
works, as used here, is that of evaporation merely. 
The cans are covered with a closely woven cloth, 
something like filter cloth ; a can of water at the top 
drops water on cloth around the first can to satura¬ 
tion. The water then drips off the cloth to that 
around the second can, and, finally, to the third. Of 
course, in a strong wind in a dry climate, the evapora¬ 
tion will considerably reduce the temperature, but 
not below 70 degrees in this climate ; usually about 
75 to 78 degrees. It was used here without any 
chemical whatever. If one has been added since, it 
must be used to dissolve in the water before it leaves 
the drip pan at the top, in order to lower the tem¬ 
perature of the water by solution—a power which 
many chemicals possess. But if the chemical be used, 
it would increase both expense and trouble in hand¬ 
ling. I might add that the owner of the apparatus 
was notified of its unsatisfactory work here, and was 
invited to come and superintend the test, but he did 
not respond. The Mexicans have, for many years, 
perhaps centuries, used the same thing to cool their 
drinking water, which they have in porous earthen 
urns covered with this cloth kept saturated with 
water, while the wind is given free access to the 
suspended vessel. 
Tomato Skins as Manure. 
J. li. T., Shiloh, N. J. —What is the analysis of tomato skins 
and cannery slops ? Would it pay to haul them one-half mile to 
spread on the land as a fertilizer ? 
Ans.—A n analysis of tomato pomace made at this 
station gave the following composition : 
Per cent. 
Total nitrogen.0.42 
Phosphoric acid.0.11 
Potash.0.18 
I presume that this analysis fairly represents the 
product of the various canning establishments. It 
contains nearly as much nitrogen as good yard 
manure, though very much less phosphoric acid and 
potash ; it is my judgment that it would pay to cart 
this material one-half mile for use as manure. 
E. B. VOORHEES. 
Substitutes for Glass in the Greenhouse. 
W. B., Fort Riley, Kan. —1. What is the tuade name of the 
material commonly known as “ plant cloth”, and used as a sub¬ 
stitute for glass in covering hotbeds and cold frames? 2. Is 
cheese cloth prepared with linseed oil a sufficient protection 
against the fi-eeziug of young plants at about 25 degrees above 
zero ? 3. Would a medium grade of burlap do under the same 
condition ? 4. I think of makiug a trial of using one of the above 
materials in pieces of 50 feet, more or less, aud 40 inches wide, as 
a covering on cold nights for early radishes, cauliflowers, etc., 
by simply drawing it over a frame of similar dimensions. Tack¬ 
ing plant cloth on sashes and handling these would thus be 
avoided. Do you think this scheme practical and superior to the 
common methods under circumstances as above indicated ? 
What objections could be made against it ? 
ANSWERED BY E. G. LODEMAN. 
1. We have had no experience with any “plant 
cloth ” now on the market, so I cannot tell what the 
merits of that article may be. 2. I should hesitate 
very much to expose plants which are injured by 
frost, to a temperature of 25 degrees above zero, with 
no other protection than oiled cheese cloth. If such 
cold be continued for only a few hours, no injury 
would result; but a long continued frost or freeze of 
that severity, would do mischief. The depth of the 
frames to be protected, also, has considerable influ¬ 
ence in keeping out cold; the deeper a frame, the 
warmer it is. Cabbages, cauliflowers, and such 
plants would do well with no further covering than 
cloth; but tomatoes and other tender plants might be 
injured, even though they are not frosted. 3. A 
medium grade of burlap would, probably, prove 
warmer under the same conditions. 
4. One serious objection to handling cloth that has 
been made tight with oil is the danger of cracking. 
The Californians have had much trouble in making 
preparations which would render cloth air-tight, and 
still leave it sufficiently pliable for repeated handling. 
The following recipe is successfully used in making 
canvas air-tight without stiffening it. It is taken 
from the report of the California State Board of 
Agriculture for 1894. The chief essential ingredient 
is a supply of common prickly-pear cactus (Opuntia 
Eogelmanni) that grows in abundance in the southern 
counties of the State. It is a flat-leafed species, and 
parties living in sections to which it is not indigenous, 
could have it sent in boxes. To make the cactus ex¬ 
tract, chop up enough cactus to fill a barrel two- 
thirds full, then fill the barrel with cold water. It 
should stand for 24 hours, when it will be ready for 
use. Do not prepare more than is required for im¬ 
mediate use, otherwise it will sour and become 
worthless. Stir well, then strain 10 gallons of the 
liquid into another tub or barrel; dissolve two pounds 
of common glue and add to the cactus extract, with 
sufficient yellow ocher or Venetian red to give it a 
good body. After thoroughly mixing the ingredients, 
it is ready for use. Both sides of the canvas should 
be painted, and the dressing well rubbed into the 
fiber with a flat paint brush. If oil be used, the can¬ 
vas should be spread out and thoroughly dried before 
it is rolled up, or it is liable to be destroyed by spon¬ 
taneous combustion. When dry, there is no danger oE 
this.” The above preparation is applied to canvas 
when fumigation for the San Jos6 scale is to be done. 
I see no objection to using it for the purpose of 
making cloth more impenetrable to cold air. Our ex¬ 
perience at the Cornell Station is not very encourag¬ 
ing for substitutes for glass on frames or greenhouses. 
We covered one house with strong muslin, giving it 
two coats of raw linseed oil. One cover of the cloth 
was applied in the fall ; it lasted until the following 
summer. Another attempt was made during the sum¬ 
mer and fall, but the cloth proved short-lived. We 
have also tried paper, using a grade of stiff, white 
paper known as “ Economy.” This was good, as it 
allowed much light to enter the house, for the oil 
used rendered the paper quite transparent, and it was 
also warm. But a cat punched holes into the paper, 
and the wind was given a chance to blow off the roof, 
which was done. Since then, we have used glass. If 
the cloth be fastened to frames and oiled, it will, 
probably, last longer than if rolled repeatedly ; but 
it soon stretches and becomes loose. Whether glass 
or cloth is the most economical in the end, is a ques¬ 
tion which depends largely upon local conditions. 
As a rule, the glass is to be preferred. 
Tar and Cement for a Silo. 
E. B. S., Connecticut.—My silo, built aud used several years, was 
covered on the sides with tar and resin. We had to add kerosene 
in order to spread it. It looks as though it needed coating again. 
One authority recouimends petroleum and roofing pitch, but gives 
no proportions. Is that the best preparation to use? What is 
next best, if that cannot be procured ? How large a quantity for 
100 square feet? Is one coat sufficient ? The bottom of the silo 
was cemented, but the rats got through. That coat was taken 
out, broken glass put around the outside, and another coat of 
cement, about a foot wide, put around the outside; but they tun¬ 
neled under that and got into the corn. What cau Ido? 
Ans. —There is nothing better with which to paint 
the interior of the silo, than coal tar. If it be too 
thick to spread well with a brush, heat it in some old 
kettle until it is thin enough to spread well. Coal tar 
is always better put on hot than when thinned by 
kerosene, or anything else. When hot, it will pene¬ 
trate to every crack and crevice. If it be put on 
thoroughly and with care, one coat is sufficient. If 
there is any of the old tar that is loose and scaly, it 
should be scraped or brushed off before applying the 
new coat of tar. Two and one half gallons should 
cover 100 square feet if it has had tar before. 
The only thing E. B. S. can do to keep the rats out, 
is to make a concrete bottom. A band of cement near 
the outside will not answer the purpose. The bottom 
might be paved with small field stones, or with 
crushed rock. Pack them well into the ground, and 
then with Portland cement, make a covering over the 
stone pavement. Rock may be crushed and mixed 
with the Portland cement, and this mixture spread 
over the bottom of the silo. When it has well hard¬ 
ened, no rat will be able to force an entrance. This 
cement bottom should not be less than three inches 
in thickness. l. a. c. 
Fertilizing an Apple Orchard. 
C. L. M., Northern Michigan—l am requested to advise how to 
fertilize an old bearing orchard. The trees are planted two rods 
apart, and completely shade the land. The orchard is cultivated, 
but has never been seeded to clover nor, until two years ago, been 
fertilized, but an annual crop of rye has been plowed under. Last 
year, on the 11 acres, one-half ton of a prepared potato fertilizer, 
and one-half ton of bone meal, were applied, and the year before, 
one ton of bone meal. The owner notices such an improvement 
in the crop, due to the fertilizing, that he is interested, and asked 
me to advise him. I shall do so as follows, but I wish your opinion: 
The land has been cropped for over 30 years and, I think, is in 
need of nitrogen, potash and phosphoric acid. I advised dis¬ 
continuing the rye, because I see no especial advantage in the 
winter mulch, and they are left too long in the spring. I advised 
Red clover or peas instead, to be plowed under early in the spring. 
Commercial fertilizers would be expensive in this location, but 
unleached, hardwood ashes can be had for hauling six miles. 
Good, dry tankage can be had for about $t2 or $13 a ton, the latter 
containing about 6.7 nitrogen and 11 to 12 per cent of phosphoric 
acid. I should like to recommend an application of two tons of 
ashes, 200 pounds of tankage, aud 100 pounds of superphosphate 
per acre. If there were no danger from an excess of nitrogen, I 
would like to increase the amount of tankage, as it is cheaper 
than the same elements in superphosphate. For an immediate 
result, I have no faith in the bone in tankage, which is not fine 
enough, and, therefore, recommend the superphosphate. For a 
young cherry and plum orchard, I recommend 400 pounds of 
ashes and 200 of tankage, with 75 pounds of superphosphate. How 
much ashes would be safe or reasonable to apply in a good, sandy 
loam that is not particularly rich in potash ? 
Ans. —Our own choice would be woo ashes and 
bone, if the latter can be obtained. As a rule, bone 
can be bought wherever tankage is sold, and if you 
could buy a good quality of fine ground bone at a 
price that corresponds with that of the tankage, you 
can hardly do better than use two parts by weight of 
the ashes to one part of bone. We should not use 
the superphosphate. The chances are that such a 
soil needs potash rather than phosphoric acid. The 
two tons of ashes and 200 pounds of tankage will, 
probably, answer. We should experiment with the 
superphosphate before using it heavily. We should 
not fear to use five tons of wood ashes per acre on 
such soil; but the chances are that two tons will give 
you the desire^results. 
