1896 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
with the seeder, cover with a smoothing 1 harrow. 
Wherever a head of Timothy has gone to seed and 
shelled out, one will find young Timothy growing 
finely ; but it's early in the season, and does not seem 
to make any difference, then, whether it is covered 
or not; it all grows. I do not think that one would 
ever fail if lie sowed his seed at the same time Nature 
does. If sown too late, the grass does not always get 
root enough to survive cold and the heaving of the 
soil. Self-sown Timothy will sprout and grow on the 
poorest soil and roughest spots, but fails later to make 
a full crop, because its seed bed is not in proper con¬ 
dition. 
The success of Mr. Clark is not due to the fertilizer 
applied, but to the fact that the soil is filled so 
that plants find a congenial (perhaps comfortable 
would appeal more strongly) home. Most farmers 
fit ground so that tools will work better, or because 
their grandfathers did, without thinking what kind 
of a home they are making for the future plants. 
With the amount of cultivation given by Mr. Clark, a 
finely divided soil is obtained, which will hold mois¬ 
ture, favors decomposition, makes plant food avail¬ 
able, enables the roots to penetrate long distances 
making the danger of heaving less, and makes it pos¬ 
sible for every seed to germinate. It would seem a 
good deal of trouble, but if we should fit a few acres 
in this way each year, we should soon have more 
profitable farms. Such articles are more valuable 
because of the unrest of mind and study they occasion, 
than from the knowledge that some unusually favored 
location has produced yields so far above the average 
that half those who read do not believe. Among my 
acquaintances, those who do not believe are in the 
majority, and not one of them ever made an honest 
effort to obtain a large yield ; but they base their 
estimates of yields on what they have seen Nature 
produce unaided by man. The few who have intelli¬ 
gently sought to get above the average, admit that 
they have often been astonished and encouraged by 
their own efforts, always receiving a profit from 
thorough cultivation, and that their idea of the limit 
of production is set higher up after every trial. The 
farm without grass sod to plow under for humus will 
deteriorate, and the idea of grass being a secondary 
or catch crop will, in time, have to be abandoned. 
_ C. E. CHAPMAN. 
WHAT THEY SAY. 
Two More Corn Ties. —If F. H., on page 624, would 
add one piece to his arrangement for making corn 
ties, he could make the whole hook at one move The 
following is the method I use : Into a large block of 
hard wood I drive three 20-penny wire nails after re¬ 
moving the heads, as shown at Fig. 213. Then insert 
one end of a piece of wire between the two spikes at 
A, which should be just far enough apart to admit 
the wire. Bend the wire around the outside one at 
A, and then continue through between the center 
spike and B, then around B and towards the center 
spike again. Then cut it off at that point, and we 
have a hook like the one shown, which will be very 
nearly like those of F. H. The outside spikes should 
lean slightly towards the center one, so as to let the 
hook come off easily. The one at B need not stick up 
above the block more than three-fourths of an inch, 
while the others may be an inch high or more. 
Fulton, Mich. r. r. c. 
A Canadian Tie.—What do you think of the corn 
tie shown at Fig. 213 ? To make it, set a short length 
of iron rod about three-fourths of an inch in diameter 
into a block of wood, or wherever convenient, so that 
it will be firmly fixed with, say, three inches project¬ 
ing free. Alongside, with just enough space between 
to allow a No. 10 steel wire to pass freely, drive in a 
stout nail all but about half an inch. With this 
apparatus, bend a length of No. 10 steel wire into a 
succession of circles or loops, three inches apart, and 
then, with the aid of a cold chisel, cut through the 
center of each three-inch space, and divide it into as 
many sections as there are circles ; each section con¬ 
sisting of a circle with a 1%-inch arm extending from 
each side in a straight line. The cord is to be knotted 
around the circumference of the circle, where the 
wire intersects. In applying it around a shock of 
corn, it is drawn tightly and the loose end of the cord 
is then passed around the arms in a figure 8, and 
tucked under the band. It is effective as well as 
cheap, and its manufacture, moreover, may occupy 
an otherwise idle hour with interest and satisfaction. 
The cord I purpose to use in harvesting my own piece 
of corn, is tarred. w. o. e. 
More About Apple Jelly. —In my article on page 
576, on How to Make Cider Jelly, I thought that I 
had made everything plain ; but from the way ques¬ 
tions are pouring in, it is evident that more light is 
wanted. Our press has a capacity of 75 bushels of 
apples ; the pomace that the 75 bushels of apples pro¬ 
duce, after all the cider is pressed out, is thrown into 
a vat of suitable dimensions. With a hoe, we break 
up all lumps, about 125 gallons of hot water are 
poured over it, and left to soak about one hour. Some 
object to so much water, but when we bear in mind 
that a bushel of apples contains all the way from 
three to five gallons of cider, it will readily be seen 
that a little over 1% gallon of water added to every 
bushel of apples, will not make a pomace very wet ; 
in fact, all is required to liberate the jelly in the 
pomace. To boil the juice so obtained, after pressing 
the pomace, we have a copper vat with a coil of 
copper pipe in it. The steam is turned into this coil 
at one end ; at the other end, it escapes into a vat, 
and this water so obtained, we use to soak the pomace 
with. We use no sugar or anything else. We simply 
boil the juice until it will jelly. As stated before, 
we have ready sale for it in this shape ; however, 
sugar may be used, and thus make a superior jelly 
for table use. If I were the owner of the mill, I 
would grind the pomace over again, and then soak it, 
and I would get as much more jelly. The value of 
the pomace is not yet fully known. j. Bollinger. 
Ohio. 
Cow Peas and Crimson Clover in Ohio. 
In 1894, I sowed my first Crimson clover about 
August 20, on the most exposed spot on the farm. It 
was sown with Timothy and Red clover. The chickens 
got the most of it, but every plant that was alive in 
the fall, bloomed the nfext spring. About May 20, 
1895, I sowed some again, this time with Red clover 
alone. About half of it headed out in the fall, and 
died ; the rest came through all right. If the season 
had not been unusually dry, the Crimson clover 
A NEW SEEDLING CRAB APPLE. Fig. 214. 
See Rukalisms, Page 674. 
would, undoubtedly, have gone to seed in the fall, 
and then died. 
This spring, I had a piece of rye—after potatoes— 
that I plowed under when the grain was in the milk. 
I sowed about 24 quarts of cow peas to the acre, be¬ 
fore harrowing any. The soil was then worked till 
it was pretty solid, considering the heavy growth of 
rye that went under in places. The last stroke of the 
harrow left it in nice shape for the Crimson clover 
seed which was sown on June 20, eight quarts per 
acre, and covered with a light clod crusher, properly 
weighted with stones. A heavy rain the next day, 
followed by lighter ones, sprouted all the seed nicely, 
and a week from the day that the field was sown, it 
was quite green. The peas were a dark green at 
first, but soon began to turn yellow in spots, and 
•thort-ly after, ceased to grow. The yellow spot* in* 
671 
creased m size until they covered nearly all of the 
field. On a small part of the field, the peas have made 
a growth of about four feet, and stand about two feet 
high. I have seen but one blossom at this writing 
(September 21). The clover has made an excellent 
growth, covering the ground completely, and is now 
about eight inches high. About one-fourth of one 
per cent of the clover is starting to bloom now, but 
there will be plenty left if one-half does go to seed 
this fall. The cow peas, smartweed and Panic grass 
will furnish a good winter protection for the clover, 
and will make a “ balanced ration ” for potatoes next 
year. 
A part of the same field, from which the potatoes 
were not dug in time to follow with rye, was sown to 
oats and Canada peas, and cut for hay. They were 
cultivated in without plowing, and made a heavy 
growth. July 25, the stubble was cut up with a Cut¬ 
away harrow, and was sown to Crimson clover and 
turnips. Where the soil was light and loose, both 
clover and turnips have made a good growth, but 
where it is stiff clay, the growth of clover is compara¬ 
tively smaller than on the plowed ground adjoining. 
The cow peas were a dirty white color, with brown 
eyes. A neighbor sowed some of the same variety, 
alone and they made no better growth than mine did. 
Trumbull County, O. e. tully. 
A STRAWBERRY BED ON A BARREL. 
A UNIQUE SCHEME FOR CLOSE CULTURE. 
The idea of growing strawberries on a barrel, is, 
probably, a novelty to most people ; yet the plan is 
being quite extensively introduced in our village, by 
Mr. E. O. Hall, who is an expert gardener, and 
nurseryman. Having experimented for several years 
in the different methods of growing strawberries, I 
became interested in Mr. Hall’s plan. I obtained an 
interview with him, and he gave me a full description 
of his barrel method in detail, which is as follows : 
The barrels for this purpose are made of hard wood 
and strongly bound with iron. Linseed oil barrels 
are preferred. The outside of the barrel may be laid 
off in four-inch squares. Commencing about two 
inches from the bottom, inch holes are bored in the 
centers of the squares, horizontally around the barrel, 
making 27 holes in the row, four inches apart. Five 
rows of holes are bored around the barrel, eight 
inches apart, or in each alternate square. The second 
row of holes from the bottom is bored on the 
perpendicular lines, and so on, alternately, to the top 
of the barrel ; in this way, holes are bored for 135 
plants. Ordinary bedded plants are used, of any 
variety desired, mixing the perfect and imperfect 
varieties as in garden culture. 
The barrel is filled with soil to the level of the first 
row of holes, putting in rich garden soil with a little 
well-rotted manure thoroughly mixed with it. The 
plants are next inserted through the holes with the 
roots a little higher than the stems, to allow for 
settling. The roots are well spread apart, and more 
soil is put in, and firmly packed over them. A little 
water is sprinkled on them, and the process continued 
until the barrel is filled, when it is covered to prevent 
the escape of moisture. 
In watering the plants, care should be taken not 
to keep them wet. The better way is to make several 
holes down through the barrel with a stick, and pour 
in water or liquid manure according to the needs of 
the plants, giving them more during the time of 
fruiting. The advantages of the barrel method of 
growing strawberries are that no runners grow, and 
the whole strength of the plant is directed towards 
growing fruit. The berries are perfectly clean, all 
cultivation and weeding are dispensed with, and there 
is a great economy of space. If the plants were spread 
out as in garden culture, they would occupy nearly 
one square rod of land. The plants may be put in 
either in the spring or fall. If they are put in during 
August or September, they will yield nearly a full 
crop the next year, and will continue to bear for four 
or five years without renewal. Five bushels are the 
maximum yield, and three or four the average, de¬ 
pending on the variety and management. 
A good exposure to the sun is desirable, although 
they will do very well in partial shade. It is advised 
that the foliage of the plants be occasionally sprinkled, 
and in the winter, a light covering of straw thrown 
over the barrel. Mr. Hall has been working at this 
business for eight years, and has set up over 1,000 
barrels, and, as far as he knows, his work has been a 
success. The most of them were for city people, a 
large number in the city of Brooklyn. 
This plan of growing strawberries seems to be well 
adapted to people living in villages and. cities, who 
have no -gardens, and makes it possible for any one to 
grow his own strawberries, who has a space of three 
feet on which to set a barrel. When the plants are 
in full growth, the foliage completely hides the bar¬ 
rel, and When in bloorii, pte««nt# the appearance o 1 
