1896 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
7o3 
ORCHARD FRUITS FOR FAMILY AND MARKET 
WHAT APPLES, PEAKS, CHEKRIES AND PLUMS TO PLANT. 
Part II. 
Market Orchard Lists. 
Apples. —For profit, there is very little encourage¬ 
ment to plant any but winter varieties of the apple. 
In some peculiar localities, where there is a steady 
local demand for summer and fall apples, it will be 
well to plant a very few ; but the large markets are, 
usually, so flooded as to make early apples unprofit¬ 
able to the producer. In such places, the following 
will be found among the best. Summer: Yellow 
Transparent, Williams, Fanny, Lowell and Oldenburg. 
Fall: Maiden Blush, Jefferis, Gravenstein and 
Wine. In western Ohio and northward, the two 
latter, if gathered early, may be kept some seasons 
into the early winter. 
As to winter apples, it is useless to fight against the 
popular notions of the market. Quality has to give 
way to appearance. A red apple nearly always sells 
the best. It is the color that largely decides the 
buyer in favor of the Ben Davis and Baldwin, for both 
are so poor that I never eat them unless cooked, ex¬ 
cept, in case of necessity. In deciding which varie¬ 
ties to plant, this one idea must be kept in mind : 
those that will pay the best. The locality where the 
orchard is to be planted, also makes all difference. 
If J. C., who lives in northern Ohio, and others within 
the wider territory mentioned, comprising a large 
part of our country will plant the following varieties, 
and not wander off into a long list, although they be 
good ones, they will not be far out of the way. I 
could name a few other good kinds, but there should 
be enough of one variety to amount to something in 
order to attract buyers, or to make shipping conven¬ 
ient and profitable. Ben Davis, one-half ; York 
Imperial, one-quarter ; Jonathan, one- 
eighth ; Stayman, one-eighth. The 
last one may not be known to many. 
It is a seedling of Winesap that has 
all the good qualities of that old 
standard, and is much better in habit 
of tree. After I had planted my apple 
orchard of the above varieties, the 
trees not being closer than 30 feet, I 
would put in as many more in every 
row running north and south as “ fill¬ 
ers”, using Missouri Pippin and 
Wagener. These will bear early, and 
pay for the whole orchard before then- 
room is needed by the more permanent 
trees. 
Pears —Px-ofitable pear culture is 
not so common as we would like. 
Some very extensive pear growers 
have stated that Angouleme is the only 
kind that pays as a dwai'f ; but it is 
not planted so largely as formerly. 
For the general market, the Bartlett 
leads, and is preferred as a standard. 
Poor in quality as is the Keiffer, it is the “ business ” 
pear of America. The canners, hucksters and grocers 
like it, and, contrary to the opinion of the lover of good 
fruit, most of the consumers like it. As the tree is 
hardy and bears heavily, and the fruit may be handled 
almost like potatoes, the grower likes it. Among winter 
pears, the Lawrence has, so far, stood the test about 
the best. Therefore, the market pear grower will do 
well to plant about in the following proportion of 
standard trees, 25 feet apart, and fill in with Angou¬ 
leme on dwarf stock, doubling the number in each 
row, or, plant standards 20 feet apart: Keiffer, one- 
half ; Bartlett, one-fourth ; Lawrence, one-fourth. 
Peaches. —The cultivation of the peach as a profit¬ 
able enterprise is often quite doubtful, even within 
the limits where this fruit usually succeeds. I would 
recommend no one to go into the business without 
the most thorough investigation of the whole subject 
as locally applied. In the specially favored localities 
where failures are rare, nothing rash should be done ; 
for the wisest planning, the most thorough work, and 
the closest economy, are not always attended by profit¬ 
able results. The present season is an example of 
what crowded markets will do for the grower. Tak¬ 
ing the experience of the best growers in the best 
sections, the following kinds are those that have 
given the best returns, and should be planted accord¬ 
ingly. They are given in order of ripening : Tri¬ 
umph, one-tenth ; Bishop, one-twentieth ; St. John, 
one twentieth ; Mountain Rose, one-tenth ; Family 
Favorite, one-tenth ; Elberta, two-tenths ; Oldmixon 
Free, two-tenths ; Walker, one-tenth ; Ringgold or 
Heath Cling (preferably the former), one-twentieth ; 
Salway, one-tweptieth. 
Plums. —Commercial plum growing is a business 
which demands a knowledge of practical entomology 
as well as pomology ;'for, whoever will succeed must 
know how to fight the curculio, except on the Pacific 
slope where it does not exist, and in a few favored 
sections of the East, where its ravages are not serious. 
The oriental and native species are much more exempt 
than the European type, and, in some cases, are said 
not to be thinned enough by this enemy of the plum 
grower. Jarring seems to be the only successful 
means of fighting it. 
On the Pacific side of the Rocky Mountains, all 
kinds of plums succeed, and many thousands of acres 
are there devoted to growing them for drying and for 
shipping in the fresh state. The popular varieties 
are : Agen (commonly called French Prune), Fellen- 
berg. Tragedy, Pond (wrongly renamed Hungarian 
Prune), and Clyman. Where the European plums are 
grown in the East, the more profitable kinds are : 
Reine Claude, German Prune or true Quetsche, Fellen- 
berg and Grand Duke. Of the Japanese type, Bur¬ 
bank, Berckmans and Abundance are three that are 
well tested and proved/to be profitable. Among the 
native kinds, there are very many that can be 
depended on to bear under almost all ordinary cir¬ 
cumstances. I have selected, and arranged in order 
of ripening, the following : Newman, Wild Goose, 
Deep Creek, Louisa, Hawkeye, Ocheeda, Moreman and 
Wayland. Each class should be planted where it 
succeeds best or in that proportion. 
Cherries. —Cherry growing is too much neglected, 
especially in the Eastern States. The Pacific States 
furnish large quantities of the sweet varieties, of 
large size and good quality, but there are other sec¬ 
tions nearer our great markets that might be made 
to produce many more than at present. If carefully 
grown, and packed in neat, small packages, they will 
bring good returns. The sour varieties are always 
in demand for kitchen use, and many are eaten in the 
fresh state. Among those which are known, after 
long years of trial, to be dependable, are the follow- 
iug : Morellos : Dyehouse, Richmond, Montmorency 
and English Morello. Dukes : May Duke, Late Duke, 
Eugenie and Hortense. Hearts: Tartarian, Black 
Eagle, Napoleon and Windsor. These should be 
planted in the different sections where each class is 
adaptable, and each variety in about equal propor¬ 
tions. H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
TO TREAT A SOUTHERN PEACH ORCHARD. 
CLEAN CULTURE VS. GRASS GROWING. 
1. Does clean culture of a peach orchard lira it or promote wood 
growth ? Some growers here allow grass to grow after the fruit 
is gathered, to check wood growth. The hay is cut aud the 
stubble turned under to supply humus to the soil, which is sandy 
with a clay subsoil. 2. Would it damage peach trees in this 
warm section to break with a cultivator, the crust which forms 
after rains during winter, the object being to prevent washing in 
an orchard where clean cultivation is given ? Our trees make too 
great a wood growth if rye, clover or such crops are grown 
among them, so I am trying clean cultivation from the start, ex¬ 
pecting to supply nitrogen in chemical fertilizers, as the trees 
may need it. Soil washing during the winter is the problem that 
confronts me. How can I overcome it ? c. h. s. j. 
Tifton, Ga. 
Illustrated By a Photograph. 
1 . Clean culture always promotes wood growth. It 
is far better to supply the proper plant food to peach 
orchards by the addition of fertilizers containing 
potash and phosphates than to turn under stubble to 
supply humus. I inclose a photograph of two orchards, 
planted at the same time, five years ago, on the same 
class of soil, and divided by the road. See Fig. 228. The 
one on the left received continued clean cultivation ; 
grass was allowed to grow on that on the right. You 
can draw your own conclusions as to which system is 
better. 2. No damage is to be apprehended by 
breaking with a cultivator the crust which forms 
after rains during the winter. In my opinion, there¬ 
fore, the system which C. H. S. J. intends to follow, 
namely, clean cultivation from the start, and the 
supply of the necessary plant food from chemical fer¬ 
tilizers, is the best. As regards the washing of the 
soil during the winter, this must be overcome by 
judicious plowing and in such a way that each row 
carries off its own proportion of storm water. 
Georgia. p. j. rerckmans. 
J. H. Hale Says Clean Culture. 
Most certainly, thorough and clean culture promotes 
wood growth of peach trees. To allow grass to grow 
in an orchard, checks wood growth, and furnishes 
breeding places for curculio. The winter cultivation 
of peach trees in the latitude of Tifton, would be 
likely to be more injurious than beneficial; it might 
cause swelling of the buds earlier than would be safe 
for them. I should prevent soil washing in the winter 
by the sowing of wheat or rye in the fall ; plowing it 
under early in March would be most satisfactory. 
Connecticut. 
The Practice in North Carolina. 
Clean culture certainly promotes wood growth; but 
there comes a time when wood growth should be 
allowed to ripen, and cultivation should cease. I 
should cultivate a peach orchard in the best manner, 
but shallow up to the first week in July. But I 
should then do better than allow the natural grass to 
grow, for I should sow the orchard to cow peas, 
aided by a dressing of 300 pounds of a mixture of 500 
pounds of acid phosphate to one part of muriate or 
high grade sulphate of potash per acre. This will 
give a heavy growth of pea vines. I should let these 
die upon the land, and remain all winter as a soil 
cover. The soil, in the South, should never be 
allowed to lie bare during the winter, for it will 
waste fertility faster than in summer cultivation. 
We have more rain than freezing, and the soil should 
have some kind of a cover. This the dead pea vines 
will give, and at the same time, will furnish nitrogen 
for a vigorous growth the next season. 
If you have an orchard be content 
with a good fruit crop and do not at¬ 
tempt to make a hay crop at the same 
time. Grow the trees for peaches, 
and grow the peas for the benefit of 
the peach trees. It would damage 
the soil, and therefore, damage the 
trees to work it during the winter. 
The dead pea vines will prevent the 
washing, and the cultivation would 
only increase it. You would far better 
get the nitrogen from the pea vines 
than from artificial fertilizers. You 
need to fear the lack of potash and 
phosphoric acid more than the excess 
of nitrogen. A rapid growth caused 
by the fixation of nitrogen in the 
absence of a balanced amount of 
potash may give trouble ; but if the 
i*ation be balanced, as the cattle men 
say, the growth will be balanced. If 
you stop cultivation early in July, 
the mass of pea vines will be sufficient 
check and will cause the growth to ripen up well, so 
that its exuberance will do no damage. It is the 
winter washing, that you have to deal with, and 
the winter washing can be best prevented by a dense 
soil cover, and we know of no other way so effective. 
If you find that you are getting an excess of nitrogen 
by this treatment, you can then mow the peas and 
depend upon the stubble to stop the washing ; but I 
would far rather keep the whole mass on the soil. 
PROF. W. F. MASSEY. 
From a Delaware Standpoint. 
1. It seems to me thatC. II. S. J. would get all and, in 
fact, really more growth than he wishes on his peach 
trees if he were to cultivate in any way after the early 
summer. To prevent washing, I should allow such 
grass to grow and die on the ground, and lie there 
till I was ready to begin cultivation in the spring. If 
the grass be cut for hay, that much vegetable matter 
is certainly taken from the soil; then, too, it is left 
in a somewhat bare condition, so that the winter rains 
would wash it more than they would if all the vege¬ 
tation remained on the ground. I would wish young 
trees, not yet in bearing, to grow all they would, to 
make, say, from two to three feet of new wood each 
year. Those in bearing are making sufficient growth 
if they make 10 or 12 inches of new wood. When a 
tree makes too much wood, one won’t get much fruit, 
and this must be checked by cutting back or by stop¬ 
ping cultivation earlier in the season. The latter 
allows the wood to ripen and develop more and 
stronger fruit buds, and a crop is more certain. When 
hay is cut and the stubble turned down, a new growth 
naturally commences, which is likely to be immature 
and tender. The same result may be expected if rye, 
clover or peas are turned under in the fall. Clean 
cultivation is all right if you don’t get too much of it, 
and this will supply all the nitrogen that is needed by 
a bearing orchard. A young orchard may be hurried 
along by using artificial nitrogen, but I would aot 
A SOUTHERN PEACH ORCHARD. CLEAN CULTURE AND GRASS. Fig. 228. 
