MALTA AND SICILY. 
101 
a piece: they are adorned by a wide black 
ribbon, which appears to be the fashion 
in this island. 
On Christmas-day I witnessed a great 
many ceremonies at St. John’s church, 
where some of the opera performers were 
engaged for the occasion. The music was 
very beautiful, though a great part of it 
was of such a quick lively character, that it 
appeared quite unsuited for devotional pur¬ 
poses. The leader of the band had no in¬ 
strument, but in place of it a roll of paper, 
with which he beat time with so much energy, 
that the noise was very disagreeable. The next 
morning I heard some tolerably good music 
at the Carmelite church in Strada Teatro. 
At the door was stationed an old man, having 
before him a table covered with amulets, or 
charms, which consisted of pieces of linen 
about two inches square, bound with pink 
