1905. 
TIIE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
77 
Culture of Bartlett Pear. 
C. F., Warrens mile, N. J. —What is the best 
way to grow Bartlett pears? I planted oO 
trees last year and they all lived, but made 
only about two inches grow.th. I have been 
trying for 25 years to grow Bartlett pears, 
with very little success; yet there are some 
old trees in the neighborhood that seem to 
do well. My land is a light clay, stony side 
hill that slopes to the southeast. 
Ans. —Why Bartlett pear trees will not 
flourish in the location and soil described 
is not clear to me. It may be that the land 
is not well underdrained. Pear trees do 
not do well in wet soil. There may be 
springs that cause the subsoil to be wet, 
but not the top soil, so as to attract atten¬ 
tion. In any case, it would do good to 
drain the soil. This will not only make 
a wet soil drier, but a dry soil moister, 
strange as this may seem. Good tillage 
and not too much stimulating manuring 
ought to cause the trees to grow well. 
H. E. V. D. 
Liveland Raspberry Apple. 
F. L., Denison, 'l'cx. —Can you tell me any¬ 
thing about the Liveland Raspberry apple? 
What time does it ripen, compared with Red 
.lane? Will it succeed here and does it bear 
well ? 
Ans. —Liveland Raspberry apple is one 
of the Russian varieties that has beert 
grown but little at yet, and little is knowit 
of it. However, it has done quite well in 
several places and may be valuable, espe¬ 
cially where the hardiness of the tree is 
an important point. It is an early apple, 
but not quite so early as Red June, so far 
as I have had opportunity to judge. It 
will doubtless do very well in northern 
Texas, for the same varieties that endure 
severe cold will also endure extreme heat 
better than many less hardy kinds. We 
see this fact demonstrated in the Olden¬ 
burg, Red Astrachan, etc., which I have 
seen doing well at Denison and other 
places much farther south in Texas and 
other Southern States. H. E. v. D 
Stayman Apple with “Baldwin Spot." 
F., Redlands, Cal. —I planted 700 Stay- 
man apple trees in 1800, on my mountain 
ranch, 5.000 feet elevation, and they bore 
well t'’--, years ago and apples were fine qual¬ 
ity But the last crop was a great disap¬ 
pointment. The apples were full of dark 
specks, just like those in the Baldwin, and 
we call the trouble the “Baldwin spot.” What 
can I do for it? Our State Experiment Sta¬ 
tion experts say nothing can be done. Our 
common Winesap does not have this trouble. 
Ans. —This is the first time I have 
heard of the Stayman apple being affected 
in the way mentioned. Baldwin, Pennock 
and some other apples often have dark 
specks under the skin that seriously injure 
them. There are no germs or other causes 
apparent, the trouble being a natural fault 
of the varieties, so far as we now know. 
Nor is there a preventive or a remedy 
known. It would be well for others who 
may have had the same trouble appear in 
the Stayman apple to state the fact, if it 
has occurred, that we may be sure of the 
truth regarding its characteristics. Possi¬ 
bly, last season the conditions were pecu¬ 
liar in the California orchard, and caused 
the trouble, and it will not occur again. 
H. E. V. D. 
Sawdust or Ashes. 
W. H. Livingston Manor, N. V. —Which 
would be best, hard-wood ashes at. 10 cents a 
bushel (second class) or hard-wood sawdust 
at 50 cents for a double-box two-horse wagon 
load, as much as one can draw? If the saw¬ 
dust was used for bedding under horses, would 
it be rotted enough to give returns in the 
Spring (May) for vegetables, mainly potatoes? 
If you do not think well of the sawdust, what 
could I use with hen manure for beaus, peas, 
beets, carrots and cabbage? 
Ans. —You cannot well compare wood 
ashes and sawdust, since the plant food 
in the ashes is available, while that in 
the sawdust is not. A ton of unleached 
ashes should contain 100 pounds of pot¬ 
ash, 36 of phosphoric acid, and 600 pounds 
of lime. Ten cents a bushel means $5 
a ton, which is about half the market price 
when bought of dealers. The actual plant 
food in a ton of sawdust is hardly worth 
considering. There is but little of it, 
and what there is is insoluble until fully 
rotted. We should buy the ashes to sup¬ 
ply potash, phosphoric acid and lime, and 
the sawdust for bedding without paying 
much attention to the plant food in the 
latter. We do not think the sawdust will 
be rotted enough by Spring to be of much 
value. It will help the manure to have 
the sawdust worked through it. If you 
want to make the most of hen manure for 
beans you should dry and crush it fine 
and mix with chemicals—900 pounds fine 
hen manure, 700 pounds acid phosphate, 
and 200 pounds each ground bone and 
muriate of potash will make a good mix¬ 
ture for beans. 
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LA CROSSE,W1S. 
When writing to Salzer, be sure to mention this paper.—Editor. 
A 
