206 
TIIK RURAL NEW-YORKER 
March 11, 
SMALL FRUITS . 
Treatment of Raspberries. 
M. V. D., OhilUoothe, 0 .—How shall I treat 
Kansas blackcap raspberry plants set last 
Spring? They were not fertilized when set, 
but have made a fine growth; canes six to 
eight feet long. How trim and how fer¬ 
tilize? 
Ans.— Prune by cutting the new 
canes through at the bend, and trim¬ 
ming back side branches to about three 
buds. Cut out all weak canes, leaving 
not more than two of the strongest to 
a hill. The best fertilizer is stable ma¬ 
nure, between the rows, at the rate of 10 
tons to the acre, plowed lightly in. In 
default of stable manure apply 600 pounds 
to the acre of high-grade potato or vege¬ 
table chemical fertilizer after plowing, cul¬ 
tivating or harrowing it in. Cultivate 
frequently enough until berries are ready 
to pick to keep the soil mellow and free 
from weeds. After the first year all old 
canes that haVe fruited should be cut 
out at the annual pruning. 
Spraying for Raspberry Blight. 
W. O. If. C., Williamstoion, Ky .—When 
and how often should raspberries be sprayed, 
to prevent anthracnose? 
Ans. —The most successful treatment 
for raspberry anthracnose is to spray the 
canes in the Spring, before the buds swell 
with a solution of copper sulphate, one 
pound, and water, 50 gallons, and follow 
after the leaves appear with Bordeaux 
Mixture, made of four pounds each cop¬ 
per sulphate and lime, with 50 gallons 
of water, every two or three weeks un¬ 
til midsummer. All affected canes should 
be cut out and burned as soon as the 
spots appear. If the disease is very bad 
it may necessary to cut the canes to the 
ground in Spring, burn them and treat the 
new growth with the Bordeaux as rec¬ 
ommended. This means the loss of a 
year’s crop, but is quite an effectual way 
of controlling the disease. 
■Get a Good Sprayer. 
C. 8., Stanbridge East, Quo. —What style 
of sprayer would you recommend for spray¬ 
ing an acre of strawberries, and small 
fruit about a garden? Would a knapsack 
machine be preferable? 
Ans.— We do not like the knapsack- 
sprayers. They are hard to carry, and 
hard to pump so as to throw a good spray. 
Better get a good-sized pump and use a 
barrel or tank. It is always desirable to 
have a reserve of power. 
Fruits for Home Garden. 
A. R., Haddon Heights, N. J .—Give me a 
list of one or two varieties of each of the 
following, for a small home garden : Straw¬ 
berries, raspberries, blackberries, grapes, ap¬ 
ples, pears, peaches, plums (Japanese or 
European), quince. Soil a light sandy loam; 
near Camden, N. J. 
Ans. —The following tested varieties 
should do well in your soil and locality. 
Many more good ones might be added, 
particularly among apples, peaches and 
plums. In planting for home use it is 
well to ascertain what variety thrives best 
in your particular locality. Strawberries: 
Success, Wm. Belt. Raspberries: Black, 
Kansas: red, Cuthbert; yellow, Golden 
Queen. Blackberries: Snyder, Ward. 
Grapes: Black, Concord; white, Dia¬ 
mond; red. Brighton. Apples: Yellow 
Transparent, Maiden’s Blush, Hubbard- 
son, Smith's Cider. Pears: Le Conte, 
Bartlett, Duchess. Peaches: Carman, 
Champion, Chairs. Plums: Japan, Abun¬ 
dance, Chabot, Sultan; European, Spaul¬ 
ding, Grand Duke. Quinces: Orange, 
Borgeat. _ 
Turnips for Fertilizer; Garden Crops. 
IE. E. Ripley, N. Y.—Are fiat turnips any 
good as a fertilizer? I sowed my cornfield 
last season to turnips, and plowed them under 
last Fall. I could not get any cow peas here, 
so I got turnip seed to try. There was a 
big crop, some so large that they would not 
plow under. I learned through The R. N.- 
Y. about plowing a crop of green stuff under, 
and think it is the only way for farmers to 
help keep our farms up. 
Ans. —Flat turnips have little fertiliz¬ 
ing value. As compared with stable ma¬ 
nure they stand about as follows: 
Pounds in one ton. 
Nitrogen P. A. Potash 
Stable manure .10 6 13 
Turnips . 4 2 8 
Thus you will see that the turnips have 
little fertilizing value. They add nothing 
to the soil as clover and cow peas do. 
Yet they are useful. They grow at a time 
when the ground might otherwise be bare, 
thus saving plant food that might other¬ 
wise be wasted. They add humus or veg¬ 
etable matter to the soil, and keep it open 
and porous. We would sow turnips if we 
could get nothing else, but would prefer 
to mix Crimson clover seed with them. 
The variety known as Cow-horn turnips 
is better than the flat variety, since it has 
a long, deep root. Crimson clover grows 
well with Cow-horn turnips. We are 
often asked to give the analysis of va¬ 
rious fruits and vegetables as a guide to 
their fertilizer needs. Here is a table 
showing some of them: 
Pounds in One Ton. 
water nitrogen P. A. Potash 
Carrots . 1800 3 1.8 10 
Beets . 1750 4.8 1.8 8.8 
Turnips . 1800 3.6 2 7.8 
Potatoes . 1600 4 1.4 5.4 
Celery . 1700 5 5 15 
Cabbage . 1800 6 2 5 
Apples . 1700 2.6 .6 3.8 
Pears . 1675 1.2 .4 3 
Plums . 1775 2 .5 3.4 
Grapes . 1660 3.2 1.8 5.4 
Thus it will be seen that vegetables and 
fruits contain a large proportion of water, 
many of them being really more “watery” 
than milk. The actual amount of plant 
food in a ton of any fruit or vegetable is 
very small, but this does not mean that 
a small amount of manure or fertilizer can 
produce a large crop. We know better, 
since we all understand that vegetables re¬ 
quire the richest soils and heavy manur¬ 
ing to do their best. Vegetables should 
make a rapid growth. Any manure or 
fertilizer used to grow them should be 
soluble and quick in its action. In a gen¬ 
eral way nitrogen promotes the rapid 
pTowth of the plant, particularly that part 
which grows above ground—like stem or 
leaf. Such crops as cabbage, for example, 
require an abundance of nitrogen. Phos¬ 
phoric acid is the vital element in the pro¬ 
duction of seed, and also gives frame or 
structure to the plant. Potash affects the 
flavor or quality and also controls the 
vital functions of the plant. These ele¬ 
ments must all be present in fair propor¬ 
tions if we are to have a good garden or 
fruit patch. Where stable manure is 
heavily used it is advisable to use a fair 
amount of phosphoric acid and potash 
with it. If chemicals are bought a mix¬ 
ture of three parts acid phosphate to one 
of sulphate of potash will make a good 
addition to the manure. If a fertilizer is 
to be used largely or entirely on the gar¬ 
den or small fruit the following mixture 
will answer: 200 pounds nitrate of soda, 
30 pounds dried blood, 400 pounds fine 
ground bone, 400 pounds sulphate of pot¬ 
ash, 700 pounds acid phosphate. 
The best manure for gardens is out of 
a compost heap, well fermented and fine. 
It is better plowed or spaded under, well 
scattered all through the soil. In using 
the fertilizer mixture mentioned above we 
would make two or three applications, one 
at time of planting and the others along 
the row, not too close, as the crops grow. 
Nitrate of soda is sometimes used alone 
to stimulate garden crops. Remember that 
it furnishes nitrogen alone. This means 
a quick growth, but unless potash and 
phosphoric acid are present the vegetables 
will lack flavor or ability to stand up. 
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