THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
ioi 
190S. 
budding three-year-old peach 
TREES. 
Have you been successful in budding peach 
trees three years old or older? How can 
such trees be successfully budded? Do you 
recommend budding these trees or do you 
prefer to graft them? In case of budding 
what precautions are necessary with the older 
trees and what time of the year do you 
consider it best to make the attempt? 
Budding or grafting oeach trees three 
years oid or over is not much practiced 
here If I had such trees to top-work I 
wouid graft them early in the Spring. 
Then if any grafts should fail, buds can 
be inserted into the new growths in the 
Fall. If I did not graft them I would cut 
them back in the Spring and bud the new 
growth in the Fall. This should be done 
as near the end of the growing season as 
possible. I would not graft branches over 
one inch in diameter. Buds, as soon as 
they have matured sufficiently, may be in¬ 
serted successfully into old growths, or 
the buds of last year’s growth if kept 
dormant may be used as soon as the 
bark on the trees peels freely, in which 
case the buds should be forced into 
growth by cutting back to the buds in 
about eight or 10 days after budding. 
Of the two methods I prefer budding, as 
it is more quickly and easily done. The 
advantages of grafting are that it can be 
done earlier in the season and one year’s 
growth gained over Fall budding. Care 
should be had not to overstimulate the 
trees into growth, as rank growth of 
grafts or buds if not supported will be 
easily broken off by storms and birds. 
I have successfully practiced all of these 
methods in testing seedling plums on old 
peach trees. J. w. trinkle. 
Indiana. 
It can be done on three-year healthy 
trees, but is not advisable on older trees. 
I would cut all the branches back, leaving 
stems only a few feet long from main 
stem. Do this in March or April, accord¬ 
ing to locality. They will then send out 
young shoots all over the tree. In July 
or August, according to locality, if north 
of New Jersey about July 15 or 20, south 
of New York or New England some time 
in August. Bud several of the strongest 
young shoots as near as practicable to 
the old wood. Bud plenty so as to be sure 
of enough and some to spare to form the 
new top. In the following March or April 
cut away all of the top above the buds 
but leave a few unbudded branches to 
support the tree until the bud starts. Dur¬ 
ing the Summer after the buds and shoots 
have grown six to 10 inches, go over the 
trees and take off all the shoots oh the 
budded branches, leaving the bud alone, 
but let the other unbudded branches most¬ 
ly remain. The following Spring cut 
all out but the buds. It is not possible to 
graft the peach except in the South, and 
it is rarely even done then. Unless the 
varieties are worthless I would not advise 
trying to change even a three-vear tree, 
as there are chances of failure, although 
it is often done successfully. But if the 
varieties are at all desirable I would let 
them remain and set young trees of those 
I liked better. Where they are worthless 
the attempt would be all right. 
New Jersey chas. black. 
In order to test new sorts quickly, I 
have put buds in old peach trees and 
some I have thus worked over success¬ 
fully were above 10 years of age. Buds 
sometimes will take in wood one to two 
inches in thickness, but so seldom is this 
the case that it does not pay to work on 
wood above pencil thickness, and unless 
the trees have been “dehorned” this wood 
is so far from the center of the tree that 
the resultant tree is ungainly, and usu¬ 
ally the buds do not take uniformly 
enough to make a satisfactory orchard. 
Old peaches set their bark earlier than 
the younger ones and must be budded 
earlier, late August in most seasons here. 
While I have succeeded well enough in 
budding over a few hundred two-year 
and some three-vear trees in orchard 
work, the attempts I have seen on a large 
scale with older trees have been so un¬ 
successful that I would not advise anyone 
to try rebudding and certainly not graft¬ 
ing. The thing to do is to pull them out 
if the variety is wrong. 
New York. sylvanus b. huested. 
I have done very little in budding of 
late years, but would consider it en¬ 
tirely feasible to bud over peach trees 
three years old. Of course the larger 
the tree the greater amount of work in¬ 
volved. Had I large peach trees that 
were unsatisfactory I would root them out 
and replace with young trees of desirable 
varieties. Grafting of the stone fruits at 
the best is unsatisfactory. My method of 
procedure in working over peach trees 
would be as follows: In the Spring I 
would virtually cut away the entire top, 
the idea being to grow a new top that 
season late in the Summer, August being 
our most favorable month, the budding 
can be done, using the number of limbs 
we desire for the nermanant head. Peach 
growers all recognize the fact that the 
peach will stand very heavy cutting with¬ 
out injury, so there need be little fear 
from the method mentioned. Individually 
I would not attempt to work over peach 
trees that were over three or four years 
planted, preferring to root out undesirable 
varieties past that age and replant, as 
the peach soon comes into bearing. One 
of the difficulties that orchardists have to 
contend with is the unreliability of the 
average nurseryman, growers frequently 
receiving entirely different varieties than 
those ordered. The label shows true, 
but the fruiting tree shows false. It 
certainly is very exasperating, to say the 
least, to wait for years and then find you 
have instead of what you purchased a lot 
of inferior and often worthless varieties. 
The majority of growers have had more 
or less of this experience. 
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Date _ 1906. State. 
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5V 
