190b. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
: i73 
GROWING FALL BEARING STRAWBERRIES 
There are two classes of plants that are called Fall¬ 
bearing. One has very many varieties that bear a few 
berries in the Fall, mostly on the new runners; some 
on the old plants after fruiting in the Spring, caused by - 
certain climatic conditions, generally a dry time followed 
by warm moist weather, which develops the fruit buds 
out of season. These varieties seldom bear fruit in the 
Fall on plants set the previous Spring. I have never 
A STRANGLE HOLD—NATURAL SIZE. Fig. 79. 
See Ruralisms, Page 188. 
been able to get much of a crop from them, under the 
most favorable conditions, and none in ordinary seasons. 
There are, at least, two varieties that bear fruit in the 
Fall, on plants set the previous Spring, let the weather 
conditions be what they may. The Pan-American is a 
staminate and does not require any other set with it to 
pollinate its blossoms. If set early in the Spring, and 
all fruit stems picked off, it will continue to crown up 
and send out new fruit stems all Summer. I usually 
pick the fruit stems four or five times before I allow it 
to fruit. It sends out few, if any runners. I usually 
remove the runners, as soon as they have formed a 
few roots, two or three inches long. These I set out 
in good soil, about four inches apart in the row, rows 
18 inches apart, shading for a few days; then give a 
gbod clean cultivation the remainder of the season, 
picking off all fruit stems as they appear. These are 
the plants that I usually set in the Spring. I find that 
I can take better care of them, away from the mother 
plant, and the old plants fruit better than when feeding 
a lot of layers. But if the young plants are left on the 
mother plant, they will fruit heavily, thus weakening 
them for future usefulness. I think it would be bet¬ 
ter for the mother plant if taken off as soon as they 
appear, but as I want all the plants I can get, I save 
them. 
All plants set for fruiting should be set in the Spring, 
12 to 14 inches apart in the row, with rows 30 inches 
apart. Give good clean culture, which is easy, as there 
are no new plants in the way. I use a 14-tooth culti¬ 
vator some, but do considerable with a Planet Junior 
wheel hoe, after the plants get large. Thirty days after 
you stop picking fruit stems, you can begin to pick fruit, 
and continue to pick fruit until it freezes hard enough to 
freeze the green berries. The fruit is as large at the 
iast picking as at the first, as they continue to blossom 
all the Fall, and when Winter comes will have green 
fruit and blossoms on. 
To raise new plants, set some of the first new plants 
you can get. Set them in good soil, two feet apart in 
the row and rows three feet apart. Give good cultiva¬ 
tion all the Fall and the next Spring. Be sure to pick 
off all the fruit stems as they appear. Most of them 
will send out runners early and form strong plants. If 
any fail to do so, they will crown up and make from 
six to ten new plants, by dividing early next Spring for 
fruiting. I prefer these old, divided plants for fruit¬ 
ing to.the young ones, because most of them will send 
out new roots above the old ones, which is very im¬ 
portant in a Fall-bearing variety, as these new roots 
do not become woody and die, in August and Septem¬ 
ber, as do the roots on the common strawberry plant, 
and they need all the good strong roots they can grow 
to mature the large crops they produce. There is an¬ 
other way to produce new runner plants. Take out 
every other one of the plants, fruited the previous year, 
and cultivate the ground thoroughly, remove all fruit 
stems, and you will get a very good row of new plants, 
but the fruit will not be as good as on plants divided and 
set in the Spring before fruiting. A fruiting plant of 
Pan-American is shown at Fig. 75, page 171. 
The “Autumn” is a pistillate, and should be set in al¬ 
ternate rows with the Pan-American. It is a seedling 
of the Pan-American, but, unlike it, if set in the Fall, 
giving it plenty of room and good cultivation, removing 
all fruit stems the next Spring, it will make a host of 
new plants, that are small at first, but when set the next 
Spring in the row for fruiting will crown up and be 
larger in August than the Pan-American, and should be 
set 15 inches apart in the row. The first fruit stems 
should be removed in the Spring. Unlike the Pan- 
American, it will not blossom again, until about July 15. 
and will blossom heavily for about six weeks and then 
spend all its energies, ripening its load of fruit. All 
runners should be kept off the fruiting row. This plant 
does not fruit much on the new runners. The berries 
are not quite as large as the Pan-American, but better 
shape and color. samuel cooper. 
New York. 
LATE BROOD OF CODLING MOTH . 
In regard to the Codling moth, there seems to be an 
unusual amount of work by the second or late brood of 
the insect in many States this year. In New York State 
there is usually only a partial second brood, while in 
many other States, especially in the Far West, there 
seem to be two full broods of the insect each year. 
Favorable weather conditions undoubtedly have much to 
do with the size of the late or second brood of the pest 
in New York State. Entomologists are not yet able so 
intelligently to read the weather conditions as to be 
able to predict whether insect pests will be more or less 
injurious the next season. It is also difficult to deter¬ 
mine why pests are sometimes destructive in one part 
of the State and not in another, but it is usually largely 
due to different weather conditions. It has been demon¬ 
strated over and over again in different parts of the 
country that two or three thorough sprayings with a 
poison, once just after the blossoms drop and at inter¬ 
vals of a week or 10 days later, will greatly reduce the 
percentage of wormy fruits. In the Far West, as in 
Oregon, the insect seems to appear later in the Spring, 
so that the early sprayings are not apparently so ef¬ 
fectual as in the East, and it has been demonstrated 
that late sprayings in such localities are very effective 
against the insect. I do not recall any definite experi- 
SECOND BROOD OF CODLING MOTH. Fig. 80. 
ments here in the East with sprayings for the late brood, 
but I think that a thorough application of a poison 
spray early in August would undoubtedly pay for itself 
in the reduction of wormy fruits. As for banding the 
trees, I think that it is a good supplementary method to 
help out the poison sprays. The bands should be put 
on early in July and removed and examined every 10 
days until September. It has been demonstrated that 
many of the worms collect under the bands for trans¬ 
formation. But I think very few orchardists practice 
the method, and I doubt if it is often necessary where 
very thorough work is done with a poison spray. 
M. V. SLINGERLAND. 
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Patented Nov. 7, 1905. 
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cheap Fuel Oil; is lighted and 
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no sparks or danger from fire; needs no attention ex¬ 
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should have them. A few dollars invested in them will save thousands. 
8aued this Tree and Fruit. 
Protecting Vegetables from Frost. 
For particulars address, 
UTICA ORCHARD HEATER CO., 
53 Main Street, UTICA, N. T. 
TREES, PLANTS, ETC. 
We have an unusually fine stock of One Year Old and June Bud Peach Trees. 
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One and Two Year Old Apple, Pear, Cherry, and Plum Trees. Grape Vines, 
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Plants by the Million. Send for catalogue of low delivered prices. 
CHATTANOOGA NURSERIES, Chattanooga, Tenn. 
HOME STUDY COURSES 
/''A UR School offers the home student an 
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Our courses provide the best possible 
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Since the Agricultural Department of 
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invited to send for a free copy of our eighty page catalogue and full information 
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(Professor of Horticulture in Cornell University.) 
The Home Correspondence School, 
pt. 18. SPRINGFIELD, MASS 
