282 
March 31, 
DAHLIA NOTES. 
A good Dahlia must bloom from July 
till frost, and if it does not discard it. 
I saw some beautiful flowers on some 
plants in July and August, very double, 
fine striped. By the middle of October 
the same flowers were half the size; what 
were striped before at that time were one 
color and nearlj’ single. A plant like it 
is not good now. We had Keyne’s White 
for several years; it grew four feet tall; 
last year it grew eight and 10 feet. A 
plant like that is no more good. Dahlias 
can be grown from seeds; they grow 
stronger than from cuttings and roots, 
only it is hard to find good seeds, now 
we are in the cheap seed business, but the 
man who has a good article does not sell 
25 cent packets for 10 cents. If you want 
Dahlia roots for next year plant them in 
small pots and let them remain all Sum¬ 
mer. Keep them over Winter like the 
old roots; and start them again in the 
Spring. I do not say this is absolute, but 
it is the best way to raise Dahlias so far. 
The specialist does it and it is my experi¬ 
ence since 1867. Now is the time to start 
your Dahlia roots. Put them in a green¬ 
house or in a hotbed or other place where 
it is warm; bury them about two inches 
or more over the crown. When they are 
six inches long cut them clean about two 
inches from the roots and start your cut¬ 
tings like geraniums, etc.; it is very im¬ 
portant to have some young plants in the 
Spring. Divide a Dahlia and its life will 
be short. It is claimed by Dahlia growers 
that dividing the roots will degenerate 
almost all the varieties; that Is the reason 
we have such a few good flowers. Of 
course a good many will believe that a 
cutting will not flower and make roots to 
keep over Winter, but it is not true; they 
were raised that way many years ago, and 
that is. the way they are raised to-day in 
England, France, Germany and other 
countries, except the United States. It is 
the reason too that the Americans do not 
care much for Dahlias; they have been 
deceived too much. They buy old roots 
and get an old degenerate plant, some¬ 
times six feet tall and more, and not a 
blossom ,in sight. In October, when the 
night are cool, the degenerate shows 
buds, and if the frost does not catch 
them they will flower maybe two weeks, 
and the flowers deficient in color or size. 
They blame the weather, etc.; it is not 
the weather altogether, only the mode of 
planting, hf.nri beaulieu. 
Japanese Kudzu Vine. 
O. A. B., Thompson, Conn. —Can some one 
report success with the Japanese Kudzu vine? 
I planted seed in house last Spring, trans¬ 
planted into a sheltered corner where I could 
weed and water them. It was a very dry 
season, many things were a failure, but those 
vines—how they did grow !—up and out, put 
arms around everything they could reach. 
Not knowing how they would winter I cut 
them back. Will one vine be enough for a 
trellis? Will they live over on the north¬ 
west corner of house as well as south side? 
I wish to transplant this Spring. 
Ans. — A full-grown Kudzu vine is a 
large affair. One will probably cover all 
the space you have. From our observa¬ 
tion it should grow well at southwest 
corner of building if the roots are away 
from drip. The Kudzu belongs to the 
bean family, and does not transplant par¬ 
ticularly well. Be sure and dig up all 
possible roots. 
Propagating Azaleas. 
H. V. C., Findlay. 0 .— Will you inform me 
how to propagate Azaleas by slips or cut¬ 
tings? The plan must have reference to or¬ 
dinary house culture to be of any avail to me, 
as I have no greenhouse. 
Ans. —Azalea propagation by means of 
cuttings is not the easiest proposition for 
an amateur without greenhouse facilities 
to tackle, but an attempt might be made 
after the following fashion: A small 
glass-covered frame or box about one foot 
deep should be provided in which should 
be put sand or fine ashes to a depth of 
six inches, this being merely as a mois¬ 
ture-retainer in which to plunge the 
pots of cuttings. The box could be put 
in a north window in order to get light 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
without direct sunshine, but in a room 
kept at not less than 60 degrees tempera¬ 
ture. The best cuttings are the young 
growths of the Azaleas that are made af¬ 
ter the plants have flowered, and are in 
proper condition when they are about half 
ripened, or possibly when they are about 
a month or six weeks old. These young 
shoots are usually two to three inches 
long, and are taken from the old plant 
with a sharp knife, cutting the entire 
length of the shoot right down to the old 
wood. Then cut off the lower leaves, and 
the cuttings are ready to be planted. Use 
pots four to six inches in diameter for 
the cuttings, the pots being filled nearly 
full with sandy soil or bar sand mixed 
with fine leaf-mold, the soil pressed down 
as firmly as possible in the pots and then 
finished off with a layer of clean bar sand 
also made firm. The cuttings are then 
planted around the edge of the pot, using 
a sharpened stick as a planter, and water¬ 
ing them in thoroughly. The pots are 
then plunged in the sand in the box, the 
latter covered closely during the day 
with the glass, but allowed a little venti¬ 
lation at night. Keep the cuttings damp, 
for if they once wilt they will not root, 
and if successfully cared for, they may 
be rooted in a little over a month, and 
will then need potting individually in 
small pots, but should always be potted 
firmly, and protected from the sun until 
established. Considerable care is re¬ 
quired in the management of these cut¬ 
tings even in the greenhouse, so the suc¬ 
cess of this experiment is by no means 
guaranteed by the writer, w. h. taplin. 
Top-Working Kieffer and Ben Davis. 
U. N. C., Pennsylvania .—We have some 
Kieffer pear and Ben Davis apple trees that 
we wish to plant out in orchard and top- 
work to more desirable kinds. Has any one 
had experience? Do they make satisfactory- 
stocks? When should they he grafted, the 
next year after planting or later? Name two 
or three kinds of Winter apples, also two 
or three kinds of pears that you think would 
he most desirable for this purpose in north¬ 
western Pennsylvania. 
Ans. —The Kieffer pear tree is said by 
most people who have tried it not to be 
a good stock for other varieties of the 
pear, but I have never found it so, al¬ 
though I have only grafted a few trees 
of it. The Ben Davis apple tree is very 
good as a stock. The time to graft the 
trees is the next year after they are 
planted. They may be budded the same 
year they are planted; two or more buds 
being set in the main branches. This will 
make a good top the next year. Any 
buds that fail may be replaced by grafts 
the next Spring. Sutton, Rome Beauty 
and Hubbardston are good Winter apples 
for northern Pennsylvania. The Law¬ 
rence, Comice and Diel are good late 
pears. h. e. v. d. 
Apples for Central New York. 
C. T. /?., Munnsville, N. Y .—I would like 
to set out an orchard of apple trees this 
Spring for home use. with the surplus for 
market. I am not very well posted with re¬ 
gard to the most desirable varieties and so 
would like advice as to the kinds and num¬ 
ber of each for an orchard of 80 trees for 
central New York. (Madison Co.) We have 
an old orchard of about 50 trees, with such 
varieties as Nonsuch. Baldwin, Spy, It. I. 
Greening, Snow and a few other varieties, 
all of which do nicely, and are fine flavored. 
When The It. N.-Y. was printed in Rochester 
and edited by D. D. T. Moore, I made a re¬ 
quest of this nature for an orchard of 50 
trees for my father’s farm, and received a 
line list, which I have yet, hut since that 
time probably many new and desirable vari¬ 
eties have been introduced. 
Ans. —It is folly to be hunting for 
some new thing, yet most natural and 
desirable to want the best. It is wise to 
“prove all things and hold fast that which 
is good.” G. T. R. has proved the value 
of the kinds he mentions, now follow St. 
Paul’s advice clear through, and hold on 
to them. I think he can do no better than 
to take the four first named. Baldwins 
are less to be recommended in his lo¬ 
cality than the others. Four varieties are 
too many for an orchard of 80 trees. Spy 
and R. I. Greening are particularly suit¬ 
able for that locality. The Nonsuch is a 
good variety, not long lived, and rather a 
poor shipper. For home use a couple of 
trees of Snow will be desirable. I do not 
think more will be profitable with him. 
. E. VAN ALSTYNE. 
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