THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
543 
iooe. 
Five Stock Collars. 
Though so many of the new blouses 
have collars attached that the stock is less 
in evidence than for several seasons past, 
there are still waists that demand its use, 
and occasions when no other neck dress¬ 
ing is quite so neat and suitable. For 
business and morning wear a few fresh 
and easily laundered stock collars are 
still a necessity to most of us. The five— 
of which crude drawings give a working 
draft—may be made out of white pique 
at small expense, and with no great out¬ 
lay of labor. Two sorts of pique were 
purchased, one woven in figured pattern 
and the other a plain corded effect, three- 
eighths of a yard of each being sufficient 
for the five stocks. One 12-yard piece of 
wlv’te folded binding, known as “bias 
seam tape” finished all the edges. Nos. 
1 and 2 had touches of color introduced, 
but material which happened to be in the 
piece basket was used for this. Being 
designed for a stout person none of the 
stocks was cut very high, and all were 
given a decided dip in front, with con¬ 
siderable curve in the outlines of the 
collar portions. It would be nice to 
choose one’s best fitting collar as a pat¬ 
tern, remembering that the points men¬ 
tioned give far more comfort to the 
wearer than the nearly straight designs 
furnished with most of our “bought” 
patterns. All the parts of each of these 
stocks are made of a single thickness of 
the cloth, as linings give a heavy look| 
Nos. 1, 4 and 5 have a sort of necktie 
effect. In these the two pieces joining 
the necktie end in tab-shaped ends which 
reach out half way along the sides of the 
collar. Three tiny pearl buttons may at¬ 
tach these to the collar as in Fgure 4. In 
each case the collar was cut from one 
sort of p'que and the decorative portions 
from the other. If the collar was of the 
corded sort the tie showed the brocaded 
material. In others this was reversed, 
but the maker of the sketches had not 
drawings. 
To finish a stock like Fig. 1, baste thq 
binding upon all the edges, turning the 
corners neatly in a mitered line. Ma¬ 
chine-stitch this binding on along the 
lower edge and ends of the collar. Then 
with a colored embroidery cotton which 
washing will not fade, buttonhole-stitch 
the remainder of the binding in place. 
Let each stitch be a trifle more than an 
eighth of an inch from its neighbor, and 
carry the thread along on the inner edge 
of the binding, not on the edge of the 
piece bound. Have the stitches pierce the 
very edge of the binding and it will be 
held in place. A pretty feature of this 
stock is the ring through which the ties 
pass. Take a three-quarters inch brass 
ring and cover closely with crochet done 
in fine white knitting cotton or coarse 
thread, crowding the crochet so close that 
the ring can never be seen. Go over this 
with the colored buttonhole stitches to 
match those on the collar. Tack the ring 
to the center of the collar at one point 
and slip the tie ends through it. Pull 
them from the ring when the stock is 
washed that all may be ironed flat and 
have a fresh crisp look. A blue embroi¬ 
dery cotton was used in the model, but 
black twist in fast color would look well 
for a person in mourning. One of the 
pretty white pearl slides used this season 
for such articles would be very effective 
in place of the common ring, but a 
country woman must often use such things 
as she finds at hand, and this stock is 
really very attractive made exactly as 
described. 
Fig. 2 shows a touch of color intro¬ 
duced by means of a piping of blue 
linen. Here a collar with front tab has 
been cut of the brocaded pique. A half 
inch of its upper edge is cut away, the 
cloth turned under and a bias fold of 
colored linen basted on to show like a 
heavy cord. An inner collar of the 
corded pique is cut full height and laid 
beneath; the lower end of the tab has a 
like finish of cording with border of the 
contrasting pique. A line of machine 
stitching holds the pipings in place, and 
also secures the binding, which entirely 
surrounds the stock. 
What appears to be a collar of brocade 
with tabbed top collar of corded stuff is 
suggested in Fig. 3 . In this stock the 
bias binding is not used along the upper 
edge, the two collars are seamed together 
and the upper one turned over to hide the 
earn. The tab of contrasting material 
ailing below the upper one need not 
reach up to the under collar, but can be 
a separate piece tacked below the first. 
In Fig. 4 the necktie effect is obtained 
by scarf ends which cross each other in 
a single knot. Secure the knot by a few 
stitches, to be taken out when the stock 
is laundered. The design shown in Fig. 
5 should be cut much like that described 
with Fig. 1. Instead of the ring two 
long buttonholes are cut in the collar 
and worked in the ordinary way. Through 
these the tie ends are slipped to re-appear 
below the collar front. While Figs. 3, 4 
and 5 are all in white with the simple 
bias binding machine stitched on, they 
are really prettier than the drawings 
might lead one to expect. An all white 
stock is neatness itself, and returns tri¬ 
umphant from the wash, and from even 
the wash boiler ordeal, or a night’s 
bleaching on the grass. Yet this season’s 
demand for collars belonging to the gown 
will suggest the use of any of these five 
designs made up in the cloth used in 
the blouse combined with heavy white 
linen or pique. In such case it would be 
best to make the lower collar portion of 
the print, gingham or whatever the blouse 
may be, having the white as top collar 
or ties. A pretty conceit of this season’s 
stocks, but not attempted in the sketches, 
is a line of narrow trimming stuff along 
the top resembling a ruche. This should 
not exceed a half inch in width. If it 
should be difficult to find a suitable edge 
in the shops ask for the braids used in 
making duchess lace. There is a heavy 
sort scalloped on one edge and costing 
about eight cents the yard. Use it only 
along the collar top to give the soft 
becomingness of a ruche. 
AUGUSTA ROSE. 
The Bookshelf. 
The New Earth; by W. S. Flarwood; 
380 pages; 50 illustrations; Macmillan 
Co., New York. This is a review of 
recent achievements in agricultural affairs, 
somewhat spread eagle in tone, yet on the 
whole a creditable and useful work. 
Price, postpaid, from this office, $1.50. 
The Sin of George Warrener, by 
Marie Van Vorst. A novel of unmistak¬ 
able cleverness, in artistic construction 
far above anything previously written by 
this author. But the theme is a most re¬ 
pulsive one; it is Madame Bovary in 
American suburban life. The subject is 
the moral downfall of a decent man, 
limited intellectually, but strong in per¬ 
sonal rectitude through the demands of 
a corrupt woman, who does not possess 
sufficient feeling to realize her own de¬ 
gradation. Unfortunately the woman who 
considers that her husband’s earning 
capacity must reach her powers of spend¬ 
ing, no matter what the result, is a fre¬ 
quent figure in modern life. Miss Van 
Vorst has greatly gained in style, espe¬ 
cially in description; we hope she will 
use her maturing power and sympathetic 
insight upon a pleasanter theme. Pub¬ 
lished by the Macmillian Company, New 
York; price $1.50. 
The Garden, You and I. This is an¬ 
other pleasant book by the author of 
“The Garden of a Commuter’s Wife.” 
Its general style is the same; there is the 
same somewhat discursive talk about 
gardening in general, with a good deal of 
solid specific information; the same touch 
of human interest, and of pleasant, leis¬ 
urely home life. The country woman who 
loves her garden can always find much 
to interest and instruct her in the vari¬ 
ous books by this author, and she should 
by all means study them carefully. The 
suggestions for the hardy garden, and 
for the use of wild shrubs and trees, will 
be found most suggestive. We do not, 
however, agree with the author’s objec¬ 
tion to the Rambler roses for all but 
large gardens, but our judgment is biased 
at time of writing by great wreaths of 
glowing Philadelphia* “Barbara” prefers 
Gem of the Prairies, Baltimore Belle, and 
“Felicite Perpetual.” Ellwanger calls this 
old climber “Felicite Perpetuelle,” but 
English authorities appear agreed in call¬ 
ing it Felicite-Perpetue, as named for 
two virgin martyrs whose feast-days are 
united. Barbara objects to Rambler roses 
because of their lack of fragrance, but 
Baltimore Belle possesses the same dis¬ 
advantage. She does.not mention Ruby 
Queen, which blooms riotously, and dif¬ 
fuses a delicious eglantine perfume. 
“Barbara” is usually careful and accurate 
in plant names, but her proof-reader 
seems to waver in mind as to the proper 
use of capital letters, and this will puzzie 
the unbotanical amateur. Published by 
the Macmillan Company, New York; illus¬ 
trated; 397 pages; price $1.50. 
The Rural Patterns. 
A very pretty warm weather frock for 
little girls is shown in No. 5326. The 
frock consists of a smoothly fitted body 
lining, that can be used or omitted as 
preferred, the waist, skirt and bertha. The 
waist is full at both upper and lower 
edges and the bertha is circular, falling 
in folds at its lower edge. The sleeves 
5226 Child’s Dress, 2 , 4 and 6 years. 
are simply puffs, finished with straight 
bands, and the skirt is straight, gathered 
at its upper edge, so making one of the 
best of all models for washable materials. 
The quantity of material required for the 
medium size (4 years) is 3)4 yards of 
material 27, 2)4 yards 36 or 2 *4 yards 
44 inches wide with 4J4 yards of banding 
and 3 yards of edging to trim as illus¬ 
trated. The pattern 5326 is cut in sizes 
for children of 2, 4 and 6 years of age; 
price 10 cents. 
The blouse waist No. 5257 would be 
verv suitable for a Summer gown of 
light woolen or silk. The waist is made 
over a fitted lining that is closed at the 
front and on this lining is arranged the 
chemisette. The blouse itself is shirred 
at the shoulders and is closed invisibly 
at the front, the chemisette hooking into 
5267 Blou«e Waist, 32 to 40 bust. 
place beneath its left edge. The sleeves 
are laid in vertcal tuck shirrings, the 
outer portions being mounted upon 
smoothly fitted linings. The frills make 
an exceedingly graceful finish but are 
not obligatory. The quantity of material 
required for the medium size is 3)4 yards 
21, 3*4 yards 27 or 2*4 yards 44 inches 
wide, with §4 yard of all-over lace for 
the chemisette, 4 yards of lace for frills 
and 2*4 yards of banding, % yard of all- 
over lace if long sleeves are used. The 
pattern 5257 is cut in sizes for a 32, 34, 
36, 38 and 40 inch bust measure; price 
10 cents. 
IF YOU PLAY GOLF OR TENNIS 
OR BASEBALL OR IF YOU DRIVE 
AN AUTO OR A HORSE OR IF YOU 
BOAT—A CHICLET KEEPS THE 
MIND ON THE GAME — AND 
DRIVES THIRST AWAY. 
At all thp better kind of gtoren and at 
good Hot ela, fie. the ounce or In fic., 
10c. 4 amt 2fic. Packets. A 10c. packet 
by mall on receipt of price If your 
uelirhborhood store don’t sell Chiclets. 
FRANK H. FLEER & CO. Inc. 
Toronto, Canada. Philadelphia, U.S.A. 
THE THOUSAND 
ISLANDS 
are more attractive than ever this 
season. The New York Central Lines 
Four-Track Series No. 10, “The St. 
Lawrence River from the Thousand 
Islands to the Saguenay” contains the 
finest map ever made of this region. 
Copy will be sent free, postpaid, on 
receipt of a tvvo-cent stamp by George 
H. Daniels, Manager, General Adver¬ 
tising Department, Room 21G, Grand 
Central Station, New York. The 
“AMERICA’S GREATEST RAILROAD” 
REACH THE THOUSAND 
ISLANDS FROM EVERY 
DIRECTION 
C. F. DALY, Passenger Traffic Mgr., New York. 
A BREAKFAST SET. 
This is a premium we have secured espe 
daily for the good women of The R. N.-Y. 
family. It is a heauty. and we are able to 
give a great bargain in it. 
It is a 31-piece breakfast set In Prince 
decoration, which is a beautiful pure gold bor¬ 
der with a deealeomania flower in the centre 
of each piece. The flower is fixed perma¬ 
nently by this process, and the design is very 
pretty and popular. The set consists of six 
plates, six cups, six saucers, six butters, six 
oatmeal and oue meat plate. 
We will send this set by express safely 
packed to every woman reader who will send 
us a club of live uew yearly subscribers, 
at $1 each. The new subscribers will get the 
Rural New-Yorker for a year, and a copy 
of “The Farmer’s Garden.” described pre¬ 
viously. Now. ladies, this is your oppor¬ 
tunity. Get after your friends;' you ought 
to have a set. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER, NEW YORK. 
Jayne's Tonic Ye rmiftide 
gives rosy cheeks and act’iva health to pale, sickly children.*^ 
And it is good for their elders, too. 
Ask your druggist for it 
