778 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
October 20, 
A BUDDING PROBLEM. 
One of our readers in Michigan says that 
he has inserted several hundred buds in an 
effort to top-work some two, three and four- 
year-old apple trees. He says he cut the 
buds from shoots that had formed their 
terminals. After live or 10 days nearly all 
of these buds have started, which he under¬ 
stands is fatal to them. Now, he wants to 
know how he can bud these apple trees and 
have the buds remain dormant until next 
Spring. He also wants to know if there is 
any way to save these buds which are mak¬ 
ing their growth this Fall. 
The season in Michigan has been some¬ 
what abnormal, during July and forepart 
of August extremely dry, which checked 
the growth of nearly all vegetation; in 
fact many people had to feed their stock 
for want of pasture, and fires would 
spread almost anywhere. This was fol¬ 
lowed by warm rains which started every¬ 
thing growing again, and especially young 
trees made a distinct new growth. These 
rains came just in time to start these 
newly-set buds. The proper thing to do 
is to cut the strings and let them grow, 
and the chances are they will come out all 
right, but if we should have a very se¬ 
vere Winter and the buds are killed then 
set scions in the Spring. As the season 
has been it would have been better to set 
them about two weeks later. People who 
do this work should study weather con¬ 
ditions carefully, and then sometimes 
make a mistake. While we should prefer 
not to have them start in the Fall it need 
not necessarily be fatal. L. j. post. 
Kent Co., Mich. 
constant looking after when growing next 
Spring to keep the suckers out. The bud¬ 
grafting is the same principle as the bud¬ 
ding and subject to the same conditions. 
You ask if it is usual for buds to start in 
this way soon after setting. No, it is not 
when conditions are right, and one of the 
best means to prevent it is to put the bud¬ 
ding off as late as it can be done. 
New Jersey. chas. black. 
Lilium Candidum: Everlasting Peas. 
E. B. II., Southbridge, Mass. —Five or six 
years ago I planted three bulbs of the 
Lilium candidum. They have increased, and 
this Summer have given me 102 large perfect 
blooms. Would it be better to take up the 
bulbs the last of August and separate, re¬ 
planting in the same location, or leave them 
untouchedV I have some seedlings of Lath- 
yrus latifolius, seeds sown in the Spring. 
When is the proper time to transplant to a 
permanent position? Do they exhaust the 
soil, and so should not be near other plants? 
Are they a desirable vine? 
Ans. —As your Candidum lilies have 
done so well it would be best not to 
disturb them, but put on a mulch of 
fine old manure as soon as the second 
growth of leaves appears in August, 
leaving it on all Winter. L. candidum 
is much subject to disease, and when a 
clump is in good health it is best not to 
disturb it for many years. Your seed¬ 
lings of everlasting peas or Lathyrus lati¬ 
folius can be transplanted to a permanent 
place next Spring just before growth be¬ 
gins. It is a most excellent and long- 
lasting perennial flowering vine and 
rather improves than exhausts the soil. 
Plants very often misbehave in this dis¬ 
concerting way. A long time ago I dis¬ 
covered that the most respectable and 
highly civilized plants very often refuse 
to perform as the books say they will. 
Sometimes I have been suspicious that this 
was the fault of the books, but since I 
have found plants going contrary to state¬ 
ments made in books which 1 have written 
myself I have been compelled to charge it 
to the natural duplicity of the plants. Ac¬ 
cording to all the rules and regulations, 
these buds should have remained dormant 
until next Spring. It is by no means nec¬ 
essarily fatal that these buds have started 
into growth this year. The whole system 
of June budding, largely practiced in com¬ 
mercial nurseries, is managed in this way. 
Buds are put in with the intention that 
they will grow the first year. If these 
buds make six or eight inches of wood and 
ripen fairly sound stems with sound buds 
on them there is every reason to expect 
that the whole thing will work out satis¬ 
factorily. The fact that the buds started 
into growth shows simply that the budding 
was done too early. The difficulty can be 
avoided by simply budding later. Just 
how late it would be necessary to do this 
work cannot now be said. By all the rules 
and regulations before mentioned, the last 
week in August and the first week in Sep¬ 
tember ought to be late enough. Budding 
can be done, however, as long as the.bark 
is loose enough. As the trees which are 
being used as stocks seem to be making a 
late growth it may be possible to bud this 
Fall as late as October 1, especially if the 
weather remains good. F. a. waugh. 
I have often known it to occur, but I 
think there is some mistake in regard to 
the time, especially the five day lot. T hey 
will not heal fast, as a rule, in that time. 
There are several causes for this trouble; 
a check of growth and a renewal again 
in the stock will usually start the bud. 
Also, when the leaf blights on the stock 
sometimes it is in the bud; when growth 
stops it often starts again, and if buds are 
taken just before the start they are in con¬ 
dition to do so, and as soon as they heal 
fast in the stock they push out the in¬ 
tended growth. It is also very often 
caused by too early budding; unless they 
grow out a spur, stop and ripen the wood 
(which they often do), they usually suc¬ 
cumb to cold in Winter. My advice would 
be to bud again if there is growth enough 
in stocks to make the bark peel so he can 
get in the buds, or better still, top-graft 
next March or April. This would be the 
best way, and I prefer it to budding trees 
three or four years old. The buds need 
Cultivation of European Walnuts. 
G. 8., Killing worth. Conn. —What about 
die cultivation of European walnuts? I want 
to know when is the best time to plant 
them : what kind of soil they need, whether 
wet or dry, rich or poor, and whether the 
climate of Connecticut will suit them. 
Ans. —The Royal or European walnut, 
often called English walnut, is compara¬ 
tively of easy culture, but is not always 
hardy north of the latitude of Philadel¬ 
phia. The nuts are best planted in the 
Fall in rows three feet apart, placing the 
nuts on their side six inches apart and 
covering not over two inches deep. They 
may be protected from mice and other 
vermin by laying boards over the rows, 
which also lessens heaving from frost. 
If not planted in the Fall they should 
be kept over Winter in boxes of moist 
sand, placed in some outbuilding where 
they can freeze moderately, and the nuts 
planted in the Spring in the same manner 
as in Fall. When the seedlings are two 
years old they may be transplanted to 
the nursery rows or orchard, setting 
them not closer than 18-20 feet apart 
in the latter case. They prefer rich, well 
drained, loamy soil, but it should never 
be wet or swampy. They do fairly well 
on dry sandy upland, but in that case 
need occasional mulches of old hay or 
stable manure. They may begin bearing 
eight to 10 years from seed, but seldom 
produce good crops until 12 to 15 years 
old. 
Lightning Rods 
Vinch Soft Copper Cable for 10 cents 
per foot 
Send for samples and particulars to 
T. THOMPSON, 
1102 So. 6th. St., Burlington, Iowa. 
THE LANCWORTHYSPAVIN CURE 
THE CURE THAT CURES 
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u 
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Greatly improved. Better than ever. 
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8avos its 
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Oak Heater $ 2i! 
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STANCHION 
_ 
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