1906. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
959 
WESTERN N. Y. ORCHARD QUESTIONS . 
Would you advise Fail planting in preference to Spring 
setting? About what distance apart would you set Spies 
and the Baldwin? Is it best to set in squares or diag¬ 
onally? Would you advise setting dwarf apples for fillers? 
If so, Paradise or Doucin stock? I shall practice clean 
tillage, and what height from the ground would you start 
the lowest branch? Are two-year-okl trees better for 
setting than trees that are three years old? Are one-year 
apple trees ever set? Would it pay to set them if good 
thrifty two-year trees could not be bought? The Twenty 
Ounce does well in this part of the country. Is there a 
good demand for it? If you set dwarf trees for fillers what 
varieties would you advise setting? w. j. s. 
Hamlin, N. Y. 
In establishing our orchard we have set the trees in 
the Spring, because it was more convenient for us to 
do the work at that time, and the ground 
is generally in better condition. We 
have decided that 40 feet is about the 
proper distance for apples, and 20 feet 
for peaches and pears. We have never 
used dwarf apple trees for fillers, but 
are using peaches for that purpose, and 
so far can see no objection to them, 
Prof. Van Deman to the contrary not¬ 
withstanding. Dwarf apples for this 
part of the country are in the experi¬ 
mental stage, but if any of your read¬ 
ers want to experiment with dwarf 
stock, use the Doucin in preference to 
the Paradise. We aim to head our own 
apple trees from three to four feet from 
the ground, using well-rooted two-year- 
old trees. We never have set one-year 
trees, but see no objection if they have 
good roots, and arc thrifty. Three-year- 
old trees are not desirable, owing to the 
fact that they are not as thrifty, or they 
would have been dug at two years and 
disposed of. While the Twenty Ounce 
apple surely does well In western New 
York, we have not found it nearly as 
profitable as some other varieties, viz., 
R. I. Greening, Hubbardston or Bald¬ 
win, which are always standard sorts- 
Monroe Co., N. Y. s. w. wadhams. 
I have had no experience in Fall planting. I would 
not hesitate to plant apple trees in the Fall if condi¬ 
tions were favorable for such planting, but I would 
put a small mound of earth about each tree for Win¬ 
ter protection. In planting the Spy or Baldwin, or other 
varieties of large growth in our western New York 
apple soils, I would not plant less than 40 feet apart, 
in squares. In my last two plantings of about 1,700 
trees I have set these large growers 40 by 44 feet apart 
with fillers between. I do not, and would not, use 
dwarf stocks for fillers. If dwarfs are used I believe 
they should be given a plot by themselves. My experi¬ 
ence with dwarf pears has prejudiced me against dwarf 
trees for the commercial orchard. Instead, I use for 
both permanent trees and fillers good, 
healthy two-year-old trees, headed at 
about three feet from the ground. 
For fillers I would use such varieties 
as naturally come into bearing 
young. The Duchess of Oldenburg, 
Wealthy, Wagener, Hubbardston, 
Boiken, and many others that might 
be named are of this class. An or¬ 
chard of 800 trees, planted in this way 
in 1898 has produced four crops. 
Even the R. I. Greening has pro¬ 
duced more or less fruit each of these 
years. During each of the past two 
years individual trees of different 
varieties have produced a barrel or 
more of .fruit. In this orchard very 
little pruning has been done. The 
lower branches are allowed to re¬ 
main, only those that rest upon, or 
are near the ground, being removed. 
The orchard has been tilled and the 
trees kept in a good, healthy condi¬ 
tion. Many of these trees now have 
a spread of 15 to 18 feet, and are in 
good condition for regular crop pro¬ 
duction. So long as we can obtain such results as this 
with standard trees it certainly seems unwise to plant 
largely of dwarfs, which are at best a novelty of un¬ 
certain value for the commercial orchard. 
Niagara Co., N. Y. w. t. mann. 
Whether we would plant in Fall or Spring would 
depend upon the soil. Other things being equal we pre¬ 
fer Fall planting for apples. As a rule the soil works in 
better shape, and if suitable care be used in planting the 
changes of Winter will firm the soil about the roots, 
and trees will start to grow before they could be planted 
in the Spring in most soils. It is as easy to say “how 
large is a lump of chalk,” as to say how far apart trees 
should be set. It largely depends upon the soil. On 
the farm we sold is a Baldwin orchard with trees 40 
feet apart, and the tops are interlocked, so the sun cannot 
reach the ground. Were we going to plant Baldwins 
on such soil again we would not place them nearer 
than 50 or 60 feet apart. However, I would give 
them plenty of room, as one fully-developed tree with 
sun and air all about and in it will produce more and 
better apples than will two or three crowded into same 
area. I would prefer setting in squares. I think they 
look best that way, and are more pleasant to cultivate. 
I have had no experience with dwarf apples. For clean 
cultivation, and since the construction of modern appli¬ 
ances for cultivation and the prevalence of San Jose 
scale, I would start tops not over three feet from the 
ground. I would prefer trees two or three years old 
if properly developed. I once planted an orchard with 
A FAMILY COW WORTH HAVING. Fig. 434. 
one-year-old trees. It was on strong land, and al¬ 
though it finally made a fine orchard I do not want an¬ 
other experience of the kind. I had to stake nearly 
every tree, especially the Greenings, for two or three 
years. They grew so fast that the wind would lay them 
over flat on the ground if not staked up. With two 
or three-year-olds this is less likely to happen. If the 
Twenty Ounce does well no one can do better than to 
plant it, though here I would prefer to plant a stronger 
growing tree and top the Twenty Ounce on it. If 
soil is pretty heavy it is about an even thing as to which 
pays best. Twenty Ounce or Maiden Blush, but on 
lightish land the Twenty Ounce is preferable. It is a 
good bearer, good size, fine appearing, of good quality, 
A CALIFORNIA JERSEY HEIFER ON DUTY. Fig. 435 
a good shipper and always in demand. I do not know 
anything about dwarfs. j. s. woodward. 
Niagara Co., N. Y. 
10 inches apart, open a good furrow, strew the guano 
in remainder of furrow and drag a chain on the guano 
so as to mix the earth with guano, using 500 pounds of 
3-8-3. Use 200 pounds of this broadcast and harrow in, 
and then lay off rows and plant, using for seed Blue 
Mercer or Peachblow. After planting put stable ma¬ 
nure on top of potatoes and when up say three inches 
out of ground work them and the manure in the hills, 
and one will get good results. The above is my experi¬ 
ence and I have grown as high as 400 bushels. 
Croset, Va. j. w. e. 
I would suggest plowing the land deep after top¬ 
dressing with stable manure at earliest convenience, 
about March 1; follow after top-dressing again, and 
about March 15 to 20 thoroughly cultivate, and plant 
the potatoes, two pieces to hill, about 
18 inches apart in row. Then cultivate 
level from three to five times until the 
potatoes begin to bloom. Do not plow 
the potatoes while the dew is on the 
vines. Use fertilizer at rate of 600 
pounds per acre of the following mix¬ 
ture: 1,500 pounds of 16 per cent acid 
phosphate, 300 pounds of 17 per cent 
dried blood, 175 pounds muriate of pot¬ 
ash. After the potatoes begin to grow 
off -well if the vines show yellowish- 
brown color sow some muriate of potash 
and stir in lightly, then top-dress with 
nitrate of soda at rate of 40 pounds per 
acre. Apply this while the plants are 
dry or they will scald. I would advise 
not to use cold storage seed potatoes. 
As to variety I recommend White Ele¬ 
phant, Late Rose, or Burbank. I like 
March planting because the season is 
then better for starting the plant right. 
If the land lies along the river bottoms, 
later planting would perhaps be better. 
Lexington, Va. j. h. l. 
I have read the questions to one of the 
largest potato growers in this section of 
the valley of Virginia, and he says that 
the climatic conditions as well as those 
of soil we have here are unlike those in 
vicinity of Richmond, the season for planting about 
Richmond being earlier than here. He also says that 
the same processes for securing satisfactory yields are 
everywhere alike, so far as he has been able to learn. 
His favorite varieties are the Early Rose for first plant¬ 
ing, say to be planted the first of March, weather per¬ 
mitting, and that his staple variety, Carman No. 1, 
should be planted if possible not later than April 1, 
in rows three feet apart, and if seed comes from the 
North, that kept in cold storage would be preferred. 
It is dropped in rows 12 to 15 inches apart, and he uses 
stable manure and commercial fertilizer, very freely. 
It would be a waste of time, acreage and seed to make 
any such late planting as in July in this section as he 
suggests is commonly done about 
Richmond. s. p. b. 
Staunton, Va. 
I should plant earlier than the lat¬ 
ter part of July, as the potatoes will 
lie in the ground quite a while after 
they mature without injury. A 
good way to plant would be to cover 
the potatoes somewhat deeply by 
throwing two furrows on each row, 
and then just before the potatoes 
come up run a board at right angles 
to the rows, thus smoothing several 
rows at a time, and leveling the 
ground and incidentally killing all the 
weed and grass seed then about to 
sprout. If the land is now in Crim¬ 
son clover and will be top-dressed 
with fresh stable manure, then the 
fertilizer needed will be one contain¬ 
ing only potash and phosphoric acid, 
using a somewhat greater proportion 
of the potash. This would be my 
plan as the result of observation and 
experience in planting and caring for 
a potato crop under conditions simi¬ 
lar to those noted by the questioner. w. b. 
Lynchburg, Va. 
PLANTING POTATOES IN VIRGINIA. 
I want to plant five or six acres of potatoes next year 
(late crop) and would like to get your ideas on the matter. 
Most of the ground, a very sandy loam, is now in "German 
clover and oats, and will all be lightly top-dressed with fresh 
stable manure during the Winter. The oats aud clover will 
be cut for hay. What time would you plant, how thick, 
what kind and how much fertilizer would you use, and would 
you use cold-storage seed? Many here plant last half of 
July, hut my observation this year would lead me to be¬ 
lieve in earlier planting. g. b. 
Richmond, Va. 
I would say plant June 1 to 10 in rows 2 l / 2 feet wide, 
A NOVEL MILK OUTFIT . 
The Pacific Dairy Review prints the picture which w 
reproduce at Fig. 435. A California dairyman ha 
hitched a Jersey heifer to a wagon on which is bui 
a large case like a cream can. Imagine the effect o 
such an outfit driven through the average town! W 
have tried before now to interest dealers in “certifie 
milk” to use.some appropriate vehicle, such as a whit 
bottle. Such things are often used with good effec 
bv other dealers, but milkmen seem to be shy of sue 
display. 
