236 
MAKING BORDEAUX MIXTURE. 
Five years ago “Uncle John’’ Spencer 
wrote an article on Bordeaux which was 
generally recognized as being the simplest 
description of its making ever put in print. 
We reprint herewith a part of this article, 
with the pictures, to satisfy many ques¬ 
tions. 
“Sulphate of copper or bluestone is the 
best preventive against the fungus spores 
taking root. After having been dissolved 
in water it should he applied by means of 
a force pump having a peculiarly con¬ 
structed nozzle that throws the liquid in 
the form of fog. If dissolved bluestone 
were sprayed on to fruit trees it would 
burn the foliage, and the remedy would be 
worse than the disease. Lime will kill 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
DISSOLVING THE BLUESTONE. 
the power of the bluestone to burn foliage. 
How to mix the two in exactly the right 
proportions, and to do it quickly is a very 
important matter. Lime and bluestone 
mixed in certain prescribed quantities form 
a solution known as Bordeaux Mixture. The 
best way is to have a stock preparation of 
lime and bluestone so that when the spray¬ 
ing outfit comes from the field the blue- 
stone may be weighed out with a gallon 
measure, the lime the same, and the barrel 
or tank filled with water. 
First Prepare the Lime. —“Use the 
lump lime that comes from the kiln in 
barrels. Slake it the same as for making 
whitewash. For this purpose, water-staked 
lime is much superior to that which has 
been air-slaked. In slaking lime, apply the 
water in small installments. Of course a 
great deal will be needed during the pro¬ 
cess, but care must be taken lest any one 
installment be so large as to ‘drown tbe 
miller.’ Lime expands a lot in slaking. A 
clean barn floor is a good place to do this 
job. When it has been slaked to a fine 
powder put the lime into a tight barrel 
from which one head has been removed. 
Next, pump enough water into the barrel 
to cover the lime for the depth of a foot. 
Throughout the entire spraying season 
never fail to have water standing on the 
slaked lime. It keeps the lime from losing 
strength by excluding the air as perfectly 
as in the case of canned goods. Keep the 
barrel covered as a protection against dust 
and chaff, which might clog the spray 
nozzle. 
How to Prepare the Bluestone. —“One 
gallon of water will hold at full saturation 
about three pounds of bluestone. So that 
when a gallon of this solution is put in 
the barrel with the pump three pounds of 
bluestone go with it. The best way to fill 
slum—when our mothers and grandmoth¬ 
ers dyed carpet rags they called it yellow* 
prussiate of potash. Dissolve the cyanide 
in a pint bottle of water. Through the 
cork put a quill so that the solution may 
be shaken out by drops. After decorating 
the bottle with skull and cross-bones, and 
the word TOISON, set the bottle high out 
of reach of the careless. A few drops of 
this solution will show when enough lime 
has been added to the bluestone. With 
these preparations, a good pump and an 
ample supply of water, all is ready for mak¬ 
ing Bordeaux Mixture at' tbe drop of the 
hat. 
“The foliage of the peach and the plum 
is very sensitive to injury from Bordeaux 
Mixture, and because of this fact, the 
chances for Summer treatment for rot are 
very small. My best opportunity will be 
this Spring before the buds start. I shall 
make the Bordeaux Mixture unusually 
strong for this first spraying of the peaches 
and plums, using about six pounds of blue- 
stone to 50 gallons of water. I shall weigh 
that amount of bluestone with a gallon 
measure. I shall put two gallons of that 
saturated solution of bluestone into the 
spray barrel. Next add enough water 
to half fill the barrel. When it is in this 
state of dilution, but not before, proceed 
to kill the foliage-burning property in the 
bluestone by adding lime. Go to the barrel 
of stock-slaked lime, add water, stir slightly 
so that a pail of lime water can be readily 
dipped out without stirring up lumps that 
might clog the spray nozzle. The con¬ 
tents of the pail will look like milk. After 
adding the second pail of milk of lime, stir 
the contents of the spray barrel most thor¬ 
oughly. By this time the color will have 
changed greatly, and you will be approach¬ 
ing the point where you will have Bordeaux 
Mixture. To test whether you have added 
enough lime to destroy the leaf-burning 
property, shake a few drops from the ferro- 
cyanide bottle into the mixture. If the 
drops turn brown as they reach the liquid 
in the spray barrel you may know that 
more milk of lime is to be added. Put 
in another pailful. Try the test again. 
When the drops give no color to the liquid 
as they touch the surface, you may know 
that you have Bordeaux Mixture for sure. 
To make it seem even more certain, add an¬ 
other pailful of milk of lime. The extra 
lime does no harm and gives one the feeling 
of having a stake and rider on safety. 
Nothing remains to be done but to finish 
filling the spray barrel with water, then 
you are ready to go to the orchard.” 
SATURATED SOLUTION OF BLUE- 
STONE. 
the water with all the bluestone it will 
hold is to put the bluestone into a loosely- 
woven bag, such as a phosphate sack, and 
to hang the bag at the surface of the 
water in a keg or half barrel. Let all the 
bluestone dissolve that will. It is so im¬ 
portant that the bag of bluestone should 
hang at the surface of the water that I 
had a couple of pictures made to show the 
reason clearly. You will see in first cut 
that as soon as the particle of water has 
taken a bit of bluestone it becomes heavy 
and goes tumbling to the bottom. Second 
represents the water loaded with all the 
bluestone it will float. If the bluestone is 
put to soak in the afternoon, the water 
will have its full load—full saturation the 
chemist would say—by tbe next morning. 
This full saturation is ready for use at 
any time during the Summer when Bor¬ 
deaux Mixture may be required. Like the 
lime, it should be given protection from 
the dust and chaff by being covered in some 
way. 
Test Drops. —“The next step is to get 
five cents ■worth of ferrocyanide of potas- 
Spraying for Blister Mite. 
E. II., Shortsville, N. Y .—I would like 
information in regard to the lime and sul¬ 
phur spray for the control of tbe leaf blis¬ 
ter mite. When and how should it be used? 
I would prefer to use some of the com¬ 
mercial brands provided, they are as effec¬ 
tive as the homemade. I would not be 
much interested in the answer to this ques¬ 
tion from one dozen parties, all of different 
opinions, but would like to hear from one 
reliable orchardist who has used the above 
and can tell just the results obtained. 
Ans.— Bulletin No. 306, recently is¬ 
sued from the Geneva Agricultural Ex¬ 
periment Station, gives an account of 
some experiments against the leaf blis¬ 
ter mite by the station workers in sev¬ 
eral commercial orchards, and also some 
volunteer experiments by orchardists in 
many parts of New York State. Com¬ 
parative tests of the homemade boiled 
lime-sulphur wash, homemade concen¬ 
trated lime-sulphur wash, and two com¬ 
mercial brands of lime-sulphur washes 
gave equally satisfactory results. One 
application of either of these sprays 
practically prevented the spotting of the 
foliage by the mite. The application 
must be made during the late Fall after 
the majority of the leaves have drop¬ 
ped, or in the Spring before the new 
foliage appears. The Spring applica¬ 
tion should be made before the tips 
of the green leaves make their appear¬ 
ance, for by this time some of the 
mites have begun work, and it is too 
late to reach them. The commercial 
lime-sulphur washes proved entirely ef¬ 
fective when diluted with from nine to 
twelve parts of water. Equally as ef¬ 
fective results can also be obtained with 
the miscible oils diluted with the same 
amount of water, or with ordinary ker¬ 
osene emulsion containing 15 per cent 
of oil. To obtain the most satisfactory 
results the trees must be thoroughly 
drenched with the spray, especially the 
smaller twigs, as the mites hibernate 
under the outer scales of the buds. 
Success will depend very largely upon 
the thoroughness with which the ap¬ 
plications are made. 
M. V. SLINGERLAND. 
Self-Boiled Lime and Sulphur. 
L. P. M., Okonoko, TP. Va .—Are there 
many reports coming in to you of success 
in the use of lime-sulphur, self-boiled, ap¬ 
plied while the fruit is on the tree as a 
preventive of scab and rot of peaches? Our 
work here on an orchard of 60,000 peach 
trees of which we Summer-sprayed 12,000 
trees with lime-sulphur, seemed to give 
sufficiently favorable results to warrant an 
undertaking to spray the entire plant this 
coming season, using what we found to be 
the most favorable strength solution. 
Ans.— We have had a number of re¬ 
ports—all favorable. The self-boiled 
mixture seems to rank well with 
Bordeaux as a remedy for several dis¬ 
eases. 
THE NOVO 2t H. P. 
SPRAYING OUTFIT 
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Engine only weighs 300 lbs. Self 
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Complete Outfit Weighs 620 lbs. 
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THE ECLIPSE 
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' - 
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IT PAYS TO SPRAY 
The Tron Arc 4-row Sprayer gives | 
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San Jose Scale 
USE 
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FLOWERS of SULPHUR 
The best form of sulphur for Lime Sulphur Wash. 
Combines easily and quickly with lime. Write to 
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New York Boston Philadelphia Chicago I.os Angeles 
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OUR HAND SPRAMOTOR NO. I OR NO. 2. 
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L E. IT. HEARD, 
WHY NOT USE HUBBARD’S? 
