1909. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
563 
Salt for Quince. 
H. (.Vo Address .)— I trimmed, limed, 
manured, and dug around quince trees for 
eight years, and no fruit. Last year I did 
the same and in March put about a quart 
of salt about six inches away from trunks. 
The result was a good yield of nice quinces. 
How about salt on other fruit trees? 
Ans. —This would have demonstrated 
something if a few check trees had been 
left untreated and had failed to give a 
crop. Quite a large number of quinces 
are grown in western New York. One 
or two growers have used a cheap grade 
of salt, but do not think they got any 
benefit except the keeping down of a cer¬ 
tain amount of weeds. Many of the 
most successful quince growers are not 
using it at all. and it was used in the 
past in much greater quantities than at 
present, its use having been gradually 
discontinued. It is not wise to draw 
conclusions from results of this kind. 
The following instance came under my 
observation a few years ago that illus¬ 
trates this point. The owner of a young 
Baldwin orchard that had never fruited 
was advised to girdle it, and as he was 
a little skeptical as to the claim that no 
injury would result from the process, 
and the orchard having been planted 
rather closely needed thinning, he de¬ 
cided to try the process on every other 
tree in the orchard. The following year 
the trees girdled were loaded down with 
if you intend to take hay from the or¬ 
chard, or pasture cattle or horses there, 
you would better be without the grass. 
Plow anti cultivate the trees till July, 
and then sow Crimson for a Winter 
cover to turn under in the Spring. This 
will be far better than taking hay or 
pasture from the orchard. But if prop- 
e;ly treated, I believe the sod and 
mulch is the best way to get apples. 
w. F. MASSEY. 
Grafting Cherries. 
IF. G. If., St. Peters, Pa.—How can I 
convert volunteer cherry saplings into 
profitable trees, and does it pay to do so? 
Trees as thick as a wrist. Is budding or 
grafting the better? When should each be 
done? What is there about not using mem¬ 
bers of one or several certain families of 
cherries upon unrelated stocks? 
Ans. —I presume that you mean the 
Mazzard or common “Black Heart” 
cherry. If these trees arc as thick as 
a wrist the only way to convert them 
into good and desired varieties is by 
grafting, as they are too large to bud. 
The grafting must be by the cleft sys¬ 
tem. Such sized trees as named have 
perhaps made quite a head, or several 
large lateral branches, and these should 
be grafted as well as the main stem or 
leader. Each limb should have two 
grafts inserted in it, so that the whole 
wound or split will be filled and heal¬ 
ed up. The outer bark of the cherry 
A NEW YORK COUNTRY ROAD IN MAY ! Fig. 239. 
fruit. 'I hose ungirdled were loaded in 
a similar manner, showing that in that 
instance there had been no result from 
the girdling process, though if the en¬ 
tire orchard had been girdled it would 
have been proof conclusive to many that 
the crop of fruit was due to the process. 
is. d. v. b. ‘ 
Handling an Orchard. 
6*. N. II 7 ., Ednor, Aid. —I have an orchard 
eighteen years old that has been bearing 
nicely, and has not been plowed for six or 
seven years. It is in heavy Timothy sod. 
I intend lo cover with manure, lime, and 
apply potash fertilizer. Would you advise 
applying all three on top of sod, and let 
it be, or plow manure under, harrow lime 
in, and sow fertilizer on top? If it 
should be plowed, how close and deep 
should I plow? 
Ans. —If you want apples, and are 
content to get only apples from the 
kind, 1 would advise you to give the 
orchard an annual top-dressing of bone 
meal and muriate of potash, say 400 
pounds of meal and 50 pounds of pot¬ 
ash annually. Then use the grass 
solely for’trees, by mowing it several 
times and leaving the cut grass on the 
ground as a mulch to the trees. There 
will be nitrogen enough in raw bone 
to give a good growth both to the 
trees and the grass. The only stock T 
would atfow in an orchard is pigs with 
nose ringed to prevent rooting. T be¬ 
lieve that by this course you will get 
a more profitable orchard than in any 
other way, attending of course to reg¬ 
ular spraying for scab and insects. But 
runs around, instead of lengthwise, 
with the grain of the wood, and this 
outer bark should be cut with a sharp 
knife in the direction of and as far as 
the split in the limb that is to contain 
the graft, and before the split is made. 
The prevailing idea is that the cherry 
should be grafted very early in the 
Spring before the sap starts, but the 
most successful grafter of the cherry 
that I ever knew always chose the time 
as the buds were swelling, and cut his 
grafts at the same time, but only as 
fast as lie can insert them in the tree. 
The whole mode of grafting large trees 
was explained in a recent number of 
The R. N. Y., and except for the time 
of doing the work the instructions giv¬ 
en apply to cherries as well as other 
trees. The cherry is one of the most 
uncertain of all the fruit trees to graft. 
The Mazzard or Blat-k Heart is the 
very best stock to bud all the varieties 
of cherries on, but the Morellos are 
dwarf growers and do not seem to 
thrive when top-grafted on large Maz¬ 
zard stocks. The common wild cherry 
CCerasus Virginiana) cannot be used 
for a stock to work any of the Eleart 
or Morello cherries on. Neither would 
it be wise to bud or graft the Heart 
cherries on the Morello, as the Mor¬ 
ello is a dwarf. Nurserymen use the 
Mahaleb stock to bud all kinds on, but ! 
this stock should not be used for the ! 
Heart or Duke varieties, as the Mahaleb j 
is a dwarf-growing variety and never 
forms a good or lasting root system 
for the large-growing Heart and Duke 
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