785 
1909. 
THE RUR.AL NEW-YORKER 
CUTTING AND HANDLING PEACH BUDS. 
]{. IS., Louisville, Ky •—I have a few 
young peach stocks that I wish to bud 
some scions onto. How long is it safe to 
keep these scions after cutting them from 
the parent stock, as they will have to come 
by mail, and what is the best method of 
preserving them while in transit? In cut¬ 
ting the buds from the scions, do you cut 
any of the wood, or simply take the bud 
wkh about an inch of bark below the bud? 
Ans.—T he length of time that peach 
buds may be kept after cutting from the 
tree, depends a great deal upon their 
condition iien cut, and the care they 
get after they are cut. The buds should 
be cut from the current year’s growth, 
and if possible from a limb that is still 
growing, but of well-ripened wood. Cut 
the limb late in the afternoon, and stand 
the cut ends about four to six inches 
deep in a tub of water; sprinkle the 
tops with water, and the next morning 
cut the leaves off, leaving about one- 
eighth of an inch of the leaf stem on 
the bud for the thumb to press against 
when inserting the bud in stock. The 
limbs can be cut early in the morning 
while the dew is on them, and do just 
as well, but do not cut in the middle 
of the day, or when it is very hot, as 
they will not keep so well, nor have 
the vitality that they have when cut 
in the cool of the day. After the leaves 
are removed, if more than one variety 
is to be packed and shipped, tie in small 
bundles of 20 limbs with raffia and label 
each kind, then pack in oil or silk paper, 
using clean, damp (not wet) sphagnum 
moss, enough to cover the limbs, bv 
putting the moss on paper, then laying 
limbs on moss, and if there are many 
bundles, pack a little moss between the 
bundles until the package is complete; 
then cover the last layer of limbs with 
moss and fold the oil or silk paper 
neatly and firmly around the bundle, and 
tie string around it over this oil paper. 
Cover with an outside wrapper of good 
wrapping paper and tie securely. If 
moss is not to be had, then wrap the 
small bundles in damp cloth—old muslin 
or calico is best—wetting it thoroughly, 
then wringing it out so there will be 
no danger of its wetting through the 
outside wrapper in the mails. Damp 
sawdust or excelsior will also do to 
pack the buds in, but sphagnum moss 
is the very best material for this pur¬ 
pose. If many buds are to be shipped, 
the. best and safest way is to pack in 
a box and ship by express; then more 
damp material can be used, and as a 
rule, they go through quicker to main 
points than when sent by mail. 
As soon as buds are received, un¬ 
pack at once, and if dry, plunge in cold 
water until they are plump, then insert 
in stock as soon as possible. If buds 
must be kept some time before using, 
untie bundles and spread them thin be¬ 
tween damp cotton cloth or burlap, or 
old bags, and lay on the cellar floor. 
Buds can often be kept for 10 days or 
two weeks in this manner, but when 
kept several days, the leaf stem will 
loosen and the bud will have to be put 
in the stock by the point of a knife in¬ 
serted just below the eye and near the 
point of the bud. Have buds cut and 
shipped on Monday, so they will reach 
destination and be used without having 
to keep them over Sunday. When the 
limbs are growing, the bud can be 
taken off without wood, but when the 
limb has stopped growing, it must be 
cut with a thin piece of wood, and will 
live just as well as without wood. The 
bud should be cut with point about one- 
quarter inch below eye, and extend to 
three-quarters of an inch above the eye. 
A short point and long top is the best 
kind of a bud. It is important that the 
bud should be kept moist, but not soaked 
until used, and that it should be used 
as soon after cutting as possible. After 
it is inserted in stock, it must be securely 
tied with raffia or similar material, and 
the cross cut in bark closed to ex¬ 
clude water. If stock is growing fast, 
cut the tie in about 10 days after 
budding, or the bud and stock will be 
injured by the tying material cutting 
into the fast-growing stock. 
E. S. BLACK. 
WHAT FORM OF TANK? 
I am about to erect a water works on 
my tarm, but I cannot decide between an 
elevated storage tank or an air pressure 
tank. Can some of your readers give 
tiicir experience? Does it require a special 
pump for a compressed air tank? I have 
a rotary pump. I wish to use the water 
tor house and stable, also for watering 
lawn plant beds, etc. g. ii. l. 
Cologne, N. J. 
In regard to the question asked by G 
, j,, Cologne, N. J., will say either tan! 
,, 1 Answer for its purpose, but if ther 
* a knoll a sufficient height to give fore 
enough, which ought to be not less thai 
25 feet higher than where you wish to 
spray, and from there up as high as you 
can get it, this is ahead of all other tanks. 
Made of concrete it will last forever. 
Where the pressure is not secured in this 
way, the air compressor tank is next. Any 
good force pump with sufficient strength 
will pump the water in tank. The people 
are fast being aroused to the importance 
of pure water. The surface or wooden 
tank as a rule is made with an open bead, 
and is thus subject to contamination. 
Middletown, X. Y. e. l. s. 
I think I can help the inquirer to solve 
hjs water work problem. I would advise 
him to use the air pressure tank which 
makes the best water working plant there 
is to-day. We have oue here which has 
been in constant use for eight months and 
gives perfect satisfaction. We have a 
spring located 645 feet from house with 
75 feet elevation. We have a 3 horse gaso¬ 
line engine and a 4xG brass-lined double- 
acting pump, two-inch suction, lVt inch dis¬ 
charge. pumping capacity 40 gallons per 
minute: 1000 gallon air pressure tank, 
which we have in basement of house and 
the building is three stories above ground, 
40 feet to top faucet and 15 pounds pres¬ 
sure on tank will force the water on top 
door. To every pound of pressure on tank 
it will force water 24 feet high. At 12 
pounds on tank. T have carried the water 
300 feet, elevated it 20 feet and run a 
full head on a three-quarter inch hose. We 
use it here for all purposes—house, barn, 
lawn and garden. The inquirer says he 
has a rotary pump; it does not make any 
difference what kind of pump he uses, or 
how far he may bring it. My advice to 
G. H. L. is to get a good air pressure 
tank and to get the best airtight boiler he 
can get because the main thing is to get a 
good boiler that will not leak air, and place 
if in basement or bury if in ground to keep 
from frost, and he will have an even tem¬ 
perature of water the year around, and 
will not have to l>e bothered with an ele¬ 
vated tank freezing in Winter. I carry 70 
pounds of working pressure on boiler, and 
that makes a strong and quick pressure 
that will put the water any spot or place. 
By all means use the air pressure boiler. 
I don't have to pump any extra fit all: 
I get plenty of air from pump, so all ho 
will want is a good boiler and a small air 
compresser pump, and he will have as good 
a water works as any city will have. 
Waterville, N. Y. w. m. b. 
For the benefit of G. II. T,. and probably 
others, T will give my experience with the 
pneumatic water work system. About two 
years ago I decided to put in some kind 
of machinery to supply my dwelling with 
drinking water and irrigate my garden 
from a spring which was GO feet lower 
than my residence. I considered only two 
systems—the elevated storage tank system 
and the compressed air system. I carefully 
calculated the cost of installing the two 
systems and I found the compressed air 
system to be somewhat cheaper, and I 
think when the convenience is considered 
the air system has much in its' favor. I 
have the water pressure for sprinkling 
lawns, etc., with no elevated tank (such 
water is not tit to drink), to freeze and 
leak and fall down. T store air instead of 
water, and require very little space. I 
can place my air tank in the barn or any 
convenient out-of-the-way place. I have 
mine under a shed. 1 have a two horse¬ 
power gasoline engine which I use about 
one hour each week to fill the tank with 
compressed air. and when the hydrant is 
opened at the house the water comes fresh 
and pure from the spring. When the hy¬ 
drant is closed the pump stops. It ope¬ 
rates only while you draw water; if no 
water is drawn if stands' any length of 
time ready to send you pure fresh water 
when you turn the faucet. In a nutshell, 
villi about five minutes of my time, one 
hour’s run with the engine and one-half 
pint of gasoline, the air system furnishes 
50 gallons of always fresh water 00 feet 
per day. It requires an air compresser 
and a water pump made for the purpose. I 
consider the air system has all the ad¬ 
vantages of a storage water tank system 
and many other. o. o. g- 
Roopville, Ga. 
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