1909. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
880 
BELTS FOR FARM MACHINERY. 
On page 839. “E. D. G.” asks about 
belting. Leather belting would be the 
best, as the engine is to be under shel¬ 
ter. Leather, if protected from the 
weather and dampness, will give better 
satisfaction than rubber or cotton. A 
five-inch double-thick belt on the engine 
would not be too heavy, and still would 
be heavy enough to stand the rough 
usage a gas engine would give it. The 
saw would need a five-inch single belt, 
the emery wheel a two-inch single belt, 
and the feed mill a four-inch single 
belt. He should use a good brand of 
belt dressing and use it often enough to 
keep belts from getting dry or slippery. 
The belts should not be too tight, or 
they will cause the bearings to heat, and 
much power is lost in needless friction. 
The line shaft'should should be 115-16 
inch in diameter, and the pulleys placed 
near the bearings so as not to spring 
the shaft. He should have one bearing 
on each side of the main pulley; that 
is, the one driven by the engine. His 
engine should be on a firm permanent 
foundation, or it will give him trouble 
when loaded. He should use only the 
best materials, as they are the cheapest 
in the end. r. b. g. 
Bridgeton, N. J. 
CABBAGE WITH CLUB FOOT. 
Fig. 493 shows that root of a decided¬ 
ly lame cabbage. The swellings or clubs 
CLUB-FOOT IN CABBAGE. Fig. 493. 
on the roots are caused by a fungus 
disease, the germs of which may remain 
active in the soil for several years. The 
plant pictured had started to head, but 
gave it up as a bad job, and the leaves 
were dying when this root was dug. A 
heavy liming, about 75 bushels to the 
acre, appears to be the only effective 
treatment. As a preventive measure 
wait at least three years before putting 
plants of the cabbage family on ground 
where club-foot has developed. 
Rot in Cherries. 
0. /?. W., Westchester Co-, N. Y .—I have 
a vigorous cherry tree on my lawn which 
hears heavily every year a large red fruit, 
perhaps the Oxheart. Each year for the 
last six years, except last year, they have 
all rotted about three days before becoming 
ripe. In former years I attributed it to the 
rose beetles which swarmed upon the tree 
h.v the million, but two years ago the open 
Winter or some other condition destroyed 
the beetles, and I have not seen one since, 
f.ast year we had plenty of cherries, but 
this year they rotted again. The decay does 
not differ, as far as I can see, from that 
which attacks any fruit when kept too long. 
Ans. —Brown or ripe rot, which is 
common to peach, plum and cherry, is 
due to a fungous disease, and can only 
fie controlled by a good fungicide. The 
Bordeaux Mixture injures the foliage 
of the peach, plum and to some extent 
the cherry, and while it is the best pre¬ 
ventive of fungous diseases, it cannot 
he used on the above named fruits on 
account of the damage to the foliage 
fiy the blue stone. Prof. Surface, of 
Pennsylvania, recommends self-boiled 
lime-sulphur wash for cherry rot. Spray 
before or about the time the fruit is 
half grown; repeat after a hard rain, 
or if it does not rain repeat in a week 
or two and continue until just before 
fruit ripens; at which time there is no 
need of the spray, and there is danger 
of discoloring the fruit. Into a barrel 
put eight pounds of best quicklime and 
eight pounds of sulphur, and into this 
pour five gallons of hot water, cover 
with a thick cloth to keep in the heat, 
stir occasionally to keep it from burning 
and from settling too much. Let it re¬ 
main for one hour, then dilute it to 50 
gallons and spray tree and fruit thor¬ 
oughly. Cold water should be used for 
diluting. e. s. black. 
Renovating a Starved Orchard. 
TF. J. A. (No Add-ress ).—I planted in 
clover field about 80 trees' in Fall of 1896, 
and nearly half of them are now dead, hav¬ 
ing been totally neglected since by my ab¬ 
sence, except that I had the clover crop 
cut off and sold each Summer, and did no 
fertilizing or culture of any kind. Trees 
have grown very little, but cannot find any 
scale or other diseases. I think they were 
winter-killed. I want to push the live ones 
and replace the dead ; seems to me best to 
work the ground around the trees and put 
cow or horse manure close around them, 
and cover close with mulch cut around them. 
What do you think? 
Ans. —That was just the way to kill 
or stunt these trees. They had little 
chance to grow in the clover, and that 
was cut and taken away. People take 
such an experience as this and say it 
proves that “mulching” is a failure. 
Half of the clover should have been 
piled around those young trees. We 
should work around the live ones next 
Spring with hoe or spade, and give a 
good mulch of manure, with at least 
two pounds to each tree of bone and 
potash. 
Cracking of Grapes. 
A. Tj. 'S., Hunter Hall, Va .—Can you toll 
me what will prevent the skin of grapes 
splitting .just as they begin to ripen? 1 have 
tried bagging them, which protects the 
.grapes and makes them ripen perfectly but 
it is rather a slow business if you have many 
vinos. My grapes have been sprayed this 
year with Bordeaux Mixture, and are loaded 
with grapes, which are perfect until the 
skin begins to darken. Then the grapes 
burst and spoil. My vines seem to he per¬ 
fectly healthy, grow most luxuriantly, and 
never fail to be loaded with fruit, but for 
many years the grapes have been affected 
as I describe, and only bagging has enabled 
me to get any perfect fruit. 
Ans. —The cracking of grapes just 
before ripening is a trouble that is not 
easily overcome, and I do not think 
spraying with Bordeaux will do much 
to overcome it. The bagging keeps the 
skins from hardening by shading from 
sun and winds, and of course prevents 
the cracking. If there is a dry. period 
before ripening, the skin is hardened, 
and a rain following causes the fruit 
suddenly to take up more moisture, and 
the skin cannot expand fast enough, so 
it cracks. Tomatoes and muskmelons 
often do the same thing, and from the 
same cause. In dry seasons thorough cul¬ 
tivation or mulching should be practiced 
to prevent any check in growth of fruit. 
Apply phosphoric acid and potash, also 
lime in liberal quantities early next 
Spring, and repeat the following Spring. 
The soil may be lacking in organic mat¬ 
ter, and if deficient in these important 
fruit foods, may be the cause of the 
cracking of the grapes. E. s. black. 
Setting an Evergreen Hedge. 
D. IT. S., Gilboa, N. Y —I am preparing 
to plant an evergreen hedge. I have ma¬ 
nured and plowed the ground and planted 
with corn. The hedge will be about 30 feet 
distant from a row of quite large maple 
trees, running directly up to the trees in 
two places: soil clay or clay loam. I in¬ 
tend to plant either Norway spruce or 
American arbor vitae. Will you advise me 
when to plant, what to plant and how far 
apart ? 
Ans. —The large maple trees will 
draw heavily on the fertility and mois¬ 
ture in the soil which the evergreens 
will need, and of course will retard their 
growth and to some extent mar their 
beauty. Moisture will have to be pro¬ 
vided in case of a drought the first year 
after the evergreens are planted. If 
possible cultivate thoroughly and often 
the first Summer; otherwise mulch 
heavily and water through a dry spell. 
The first and important thing to do is 
to dig the trench wide enough to receive 
the roots without crowding them against 
the hard sides of the trench, then dig 
deep enough so that from four to six 
inches of good top soil can be put in 
the bottom for the young roots to feed 
on, and set the trees deep enough so 
the bottom limbs about touch the 
ground. Fill in trench with good soil 
and pound it in after roots are covered. 
The distance to plant will be controlled 
by the size of the tree planted and the 
use the hedge is intended for. If for 
wind-breaks then the trees can be plant¬ 
ed farther apart, but if the intention is 
to make a compact and ornamental 
hedge at once, the trees should be plant¬ 
ed close enough to touch each other 
when planted. Both the Norway spruce 
and American arbor vitae make beauti¬ 
ful and hardy hedges—also wind-breaks. 
The spruce is a stronger and coarser 
grower than the arbor vitte and harder 
to keep under control when a low or 
medium size hedge is wanted and alto¬ 
gether the arbor vitre is to be preferred 
for hedging, and also makes a good 
wind-break. e. s. black. 
v 0 Fence 
Buyers 
I Wan! to Send P 
ou This Free Book 
_ before you buy a rod of 
fence Take my word for 
it, it will pay you to give 
me the chalice. It’s a 
book about 
EMPIRE 
Atl-No.-9 Big Wire Fence 
I’ve had my say about fence in this 
book and I want you to read it. Most 
profitable fence in the world to buy, 
as I'll show you. 
THERE’S A NEW THING ABOUT IT 
It’s now sold delivered to fence-buyers every¬ 
where—not just in certain sections, but every¬ 
where In Iho U-S. Plainly priced in the book 
(factory prices) and the factory pays the freight 
to your railroad station. 
Send me a card or letter for book right away. 
I'm going to send out 45,000 of these books to 
farmersthis fall, but I'll get them out promptly. 
Address FARMER JONES, Fence Man for 
BOND STEEL POST CO. 
23 E. Maumee St, Adrian, Mich. 
Mrs. Bleecker (upstairs) : Bridget, 
have you turned the gas on in the par¬ 
lor, as I told you? The New Domestic 
Jewel: Yis, mum; can't yez smell it?— 
Christian Advocate. 
“So you don’t guide hunting parties 
any more?” “Nope,” said the guide. 
“Got tired of being mistook fer a deer.” 
“How do you earn your living now?” 
“Guide fisbin’ parties. So fer, nobody 
ain’t mistook me fer a fish.”—Kansas 
City Journal. 
FENCE 
Madoof High Carbon Double Strength 
Coiled Wire. Heavily Galvanized to 
prevent rust. Have no agents. Sell at 
factory prices on 30 days’ free trial. 
We pay al I freight. 37 heights of farm 
and poultry fence. Catalog Free. 
COILED SPRING FENCE CO. 
Box 263 Winchester, Indiana. 
Ornamental iron Fence Lawns, Churches,Cem- 
etenes.1 ublio Grounds. Also Wrought Irou Fence. Catalogue 
free. \Vrite for Special OfIVr. 
THE WARD FENCE CO*. Box Q75 t Docutur, lnd« , 
B pown fencer 
Strongest, most durable fence" l| -U 
made. Heaviest, closest wires. Double 
( galvanized. Practically indestructible. Stock 
strong.Chicken tight. 15 to 35c per rod. Sample Free.We pay fri. 
The Brown F ence & Wire Co., Dept. 59, Cleveland, Ohio, 
™99 %, % Pure- 
American Ingot Iron Roofing 
Guaranteed For 30 Years 
Without Painting 
The Only Guaranteed Metal Roofing ever put on the 
market. Samples free. Write for a free book showing 
remarkable tests. A way out of your roof troubles. 
THE AMERICAN IRON ROOFING CO.. Dept. 0, ELYRIA, OHId 
The Whitest Pure Paint 
Make certain first that the White Lead you buy is pure. Then 
look for Whiteness. It’s a certain indication of freedom from 
impurities. It indicates fineness, spreading and wearing qualities. 
The whitest of alt pure leads is 
GARTER 
Strictly Pure 
White Lead 
"The Lead With the Spread" 
Other pure leads appear grey by comparison. This superior whiteness as¬ 
sures strong, brilliant true and durable colors. Whiteness also means extreme 
fineness of grain. 
Carter never cracks or scales. It forms a tough, durable and elastic film. 
Wears down gradually—only years of wear will remove it. 
Carter costs a little more per pound than other pure white leads, but it’s the 
best and most lasting paint you can buy; the cheapest in the end. 
All reliable dealers sell Carter —good painters use it. 
Send today for our valuable Free Book, which tells how to test 
paint for purity—how to choose a harmonious color scheme and gives 
many valuable suggestions. We send with the book a set of colored 
plates showing how real buildings look when painted with Carter—■ 
just what you have long wanted. 
CARTER WHITE LEAD COMPANY 
12094 S. Peoria Street, Chicago Factories: Chicago— Omaha 
FARM CEME 
YOUR GUIDE 
TO QUALITY 
HE 
The New Illustrated Magazine for Farmers 
T ELLS all about the uses of cement and concrete on the 
farm. Teaches and illustrates the latest, most practical and 
improved methods of construction. Tells what other farmers’ 
have done, whatyo« can do, and how you can do it. 
FREE TO YOU 
To Keep You Up-To-Date on Uses of Cement and Concrete on the Farm. 
We want to send you this instructive, entertaining magazine absolutely free. 
Send us your name and address on coupon, on postal or in letter. 
We give this Journal free, so you will know how to economize In building by _ 
Using Universal Portland Cement. 
This cement is the most widely used by farmers because best adapted to all II 
Classes of construction, uniformly high grade, easy to work with. IB 
Get your name ou the free list for the magazine, at once. No obligation j ft 
incurred. Address III 
UNIVERSAL PORTLAND CEMENT CO. sJ/ll 
Dept. 2, Frick Bldg. - Pittsburg, Pa.J|^ 
uUniversal Portland Cement Co., I accept your offer to send mo, postpaid and 
J entirely free of cost, your illustrated magazine, “Farm Cement News.” 
* Name... 
« 
| Town... 
• State...R. F. D. 
« . . 
