1909, 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
loss 
A SMALL GREENHOUSE. 
In cases where more extensive glass 
structures are desired than those de¬ 
scribed on page 1027, it would be better 
if detached from the dwelling. Of 
course there is nothing arbitrary in the 
size. It may be made 50, 75 or 100 feet 
in length, or 18, 20 or 24 feet in width, 
as desired, and may be used either for 
growing cut flowers, bedding plants, or 
for forcing vegetables of various kinds. 
If it is to be used for cut flowers and 
the forcing of vegetables during the 
Winter I would recommend for best re¬ 
sults a three-quarter span roof facing 
south. In such a house we get the direct 
rays from the sun during the short days, 
and it is less exposed to the penetrating 
north winds. Where plant growing and 
bedding stock is to be the object, the 
ends should face north and south, with 
an even-span roof, so the distribution of 
the sun’s rays will be more equal on 
each side, thus insuring an even spread 
and better uniformity of potting stock. 
All the walls of the greenhouse, from 
the surface of the ground to the glass, 
would better be made of wood. The 
continued extremes in Winter between 
a zero temperature outside and 60 de¬ 
grees to 70 degrees inside will in a year 
or two destroy brick or stone walls, un¬ 
less they are built very thick. When 
the walls are formed of wood, the best 
way is to set locust posts at a distance 
of four feet apart, and nail to these a 
sheathing of matched boards on inside 
of house, and the outside should be in¬ 
closed with heavy weatherboarding. 
This will give an air space between the 
boards, which is very important. There 
are some growers, however, who advise 
the use of building or tarred paper be¬ 
tween the boards, but long experience 
has proven that the paper, when once 
wet, causes a continual dampness, frost 
forms on the inner walls, and the boards 
soon decay and rot away. A greenhouse 
wall well built as above described, if 
kept painted, will last for 30 years, and 
is equally as warm as brick because dry, 
costing less than half. A house built 
this style 20 feet wide will cost from $8 
to $10 per running foot without heating 
apparatus. 
When vegetables are to be grown the 
solid beds are to be preferred, and these 
are less expensive than raised benches. 
But for the germination of seed of all 
kinds, and for propagating plants 
from cuttings, the bench system of 
construction is necessary. Some years 
ago brick or tile flues as a means 
of heating greenhouses were very 
popular, but they should be used 
only on the score of economy. When¬ 
ever one can afford to have the 
heating done in the best manner, by all 
means let it be done by hot water. This 
system requires less attention than any 
other method, and its management is so 
simple that anyone able to take care of 
an ordinary stove or furnace can 
take care of a boiler for heat¬ 
ing hot water. There are a great 
many patterns of hot water boil¬ 
ers, and to recommend one more than 
another would seem invidious. I believe, 
however, from long experience, that 
there are few of the different makes 
of heaters on the market to day, but 
what are reliable, provided they are 
properly installed, and the work of pip¬ 
ing done in a substantial manner. We 
have used three different makes of boil¬ 
ers, and all have given thorough satis¬ 
faction. The number of pipe lines it will 
require will depend on the temperature 
wanted. A house 20 feet wide and 100' 
feet long, 10 lines of four-inch pipe cor¬ 
rectly distributed, is sufficient to give a 
temperature of from 60 degrees to 70 
degrees at night, while seven lines will 
maintain a temperature of from 40 de¬ 
grees to 50 degrees in the coldest weath¬ 
er. In greenhouses where vegetables are 
to be grown benches are not required. 
Two-inch pipe is to be preferred, as 
these can be hung on the side walls, on 
the center posts, or along the pathway. 
This gives more available planting space, 
and is economy in many ways. Some 
practical suggestions have been given in 
The R. N.-Y., as to size of glass, best 
method of glazing, size of sash, bars, etc. 
_T. m. WHITE. 
Seeding Clover With Oats and Rye. 
O. S. B., Rohobotli, Mass .—I have two 
or three fields I wish to get seeded to 
clover. The soil is light. Would it be prac¬ 
tical to sow Alsike and Ited clover with a 
light seeding of oats early in the Spring, 
the oats to be cut early for green fodder? 
Would it be a good plan to sow clover in 
the Spring on a Winter rye field intended 
to be cut for green fodder? 
Ans. —We have followed both plans 
in northern New Jersey with success. 
We think you are wise to sow both Al¬ 
sike and Red clover. Our best seeding 
is done with oats or some crop where 
the seed can be covered or rolled in. 
Seeding on Fall sowed grain is not usu¬ 
ally so successful, though rye is better 
than wheat for this purpose. Most peo¬ 
ple seem to wait too long belore putting 
on the clover seed in Springy We have 
a better seeding when the rye is cut 
early than when it is left for straw and 
grain. 
Use of Lime on Rye. 
II. IF. H.j New York .—I have bought 
water-slaked lime, aud wish to spread it 
in a field with a rye cover crop. I can buy 
manure cheap, and must get it now. I want 
to spread the manure on the rye for corn 
next year. On account of the chemicul 
action of lime on manure, should I pile the 
manure or lime to be applied next year? 
Would there be much loss if the lime were 
put in first and the manure on top? The 
lime contains (by analysis) two per cent 
nitrogen. I fear loss of the manure from 
heating, etc., if piled. What do you recom¬ 
mend ? 
Ans. —We should scatter the lime on 
the young rye now, and pile the manure 
for spreading later. If the manure is 
inclined to heat use land plaster or 
kainit in the pile. There would proba¬ 
bly not be much loss if the lime were 
spread first and the manure put on top 
of it, but it would depend somewhat on 
the weather. We should avoid any such 
loss by letting the lime soak well into 
the soil before broadcasting the manure. 
It may seem strange to some of our 
readers that nitrogen is found in lime! 
The lime spoken of is taken from a 
glue factory. Lime is used to preserve 
the “glue stock,” and carries some or¬ 
ganic matter away with it. 
Dodder in Clover. 
A. L. S. } Sylvania, Pa .—I send sample 
of a vine that is killing my clover, a piece 
of new seeding sown last Spring on rye. 
The vine made its appearance soon after 
I cut the rye. When growing it is a very 
fine yellow vine somewhat like Coptis tri¬ 
folia roots (gold thread) although much 
finer and more compact in growth. It 
forms such a thick mat that it seems to 
smother the clover, as the ground under 
it is perfectly bare. Some of the clover 
has made such a growth that it has blos¬ 
somed and produced seed. Is there danger 
of smothering? Ought I to pasture it off 
or leave it as it is? The soil is red shale, 
somewhat gravelly, level; a small creek on 
one side. 
Ans. —This is dodder. We have often 
told about it. The seed usually comes 
in the clover or Alfalfa seed. It is one 
of the meanest weeds known. It is a 
parasite which twines around the clover 
or Alfalfa plant and smothers it. Pas¬ 
turing will not kill it. If the field 
is well covered it will be best to plow 
and plant some cultivated crop. If 
there are only patches of it, mow them 
off and rake and burn the patches over. 
This curse comes in foul seed and every 
lot should be sampled and examined be¬ 
fore we sow it. 
A little boy came into the house with 
his clothes torn, his hair disheveled, and 
dirt all over him. Blood was trickling 
down his face. “Johnny,” his mother 
said, “haven’t I often told you not to 
play with that Simpson boy?” “Mam¬ 
ma,” the little boy said, “do I look as 
though I had been playing?”—Atchison 
Globe. 
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Get our catalogue and prices, 
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1913 Forest Home Ave., 
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t- 
Q JR,, 
t M” - 
Lit h 
V 
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. a 
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& 
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