1909 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1087 
MANURE FOR GARDENING. 
C. P., Jefferson City, Mo —With great 
interest I read the article on page 9S2, 
“The Use of Stable Manure,’’ by F. L. 
Allen. I believe the advice is correct, but 
how about the gardener who has no fields 
with living roots to haul the manure on? 
If not advisable to haul manure out on 
fields in Fall, what should we do? Land 
manured and plowed, say in October, 
cannot be sown to get a living crop on it. 
And were we to store the manure we haul 
from town in Fall would not the loss from 
storage be greater than when manure is 
hauled at once to the field and plowed 
under, even if left bare? 
Ans. —In this question you have fur¬ 
nished the same nut I am trying to 
crack, as my thoughts were along the 
same line as C. P.'s, and our conditions 
identical. I have not an acre of ground 
with living roots; all are under culture. 
We draw large quantities of horse ma¬ 
nure, and my way is to plow it under 
as soon as possible, as I think we lose 
much less nitrogen than in any other 
way, but there is a long time in Summer 
when the crops are on the ground, and 
in Winter when the ground is frozen, 
when we cannot do this, and the best 
way to do during these seasons is the 
problem. For the Summer I have tried 
piling and using the hose on it; put a 
spray on the hose and set the water 
running. I have not been as successful 
in this way as I could wish, as some 
parts of the pile are too wet and leach, 
while other parts are dry and burn. If 
one could turn the pile just at the right 
time I think it much better, but from my 
experience think there is much loss in 
this way. Another way is to keep hogs 
on it, which is a very good way. An¬ 
other is to pile in layers and use soil 
spread between the layers. Start a pile 
in a place when there is no danger of 
leaching, and as the manure is drawn 
spread it in layers from 12 to 18 inches 
thick. The condition of the manure has 
much to do with the depth. Then spread 
on a thin layer of soil, sand, or anything 
which will prevent its heating too rapidly. 
Another layer of manure, then more soil, 
and when the pile is deep enough cover 
with two or three inches of soil. In this 
was there is not near as much loss, and 
the manure is in fine shape to apply 
when the time comes to use it. When 
building the pile be sure to make it as 
compact as possible. We grow quantities 
of rhubarb roots for forcing; have just 
now, November 20, plowed out eight 
acres of them. We shall cover the 
ground at once with manure fresh from 
the stables, and plow it in unless the 
ground freezes before we can do it. The 
remainder of the Winter we are gov¬ 
erned by conditions. If we can apply it 
we do so, but we have heavy snowfalls, 
and when snow is deep have to pile. My 
experiment is that we get much better 
results from the fresh manure plowed 
in than as a top-dressing. My soil runs 
from a dark loam to a light sand. In 
some soils it might be different. 
ALLEN B. WELLS. 
Saratoga Co., N. Y. 
R. N.-Y.—The use of kainit in mak¬ 
ing up the pile will help prevent burning 
or “fire-fanging.” 
In trying to answer a question of this 
character, to give the best advice in our 
possession, the person trying to answer 
the question should be in possession of 
sufficient data to enable him to advise 
intelligently. The kind of soil and how 
rolling it is, is one factor; the type of 
subsoil, and how far the water-holding 
stratum is below the surface, is another. 
Not knowing these, I will simply give 
my own methods, as well as those of 
most farmers in any section. 
All through this section, the market 
gardeners and small fruit growers pur¬ 
chase their annual supply of manure 
from the large cities. This supply ar¬ 
rives usually in early Fall, is unloaded, 
carted to the farm, and mostly piled in 
heaps containing from 50 to 200 tons 
each. As inquirer seems to indicate by 
what he says, there is a loss of plant 
food by this method; nevertheless, I 
have two -yery good reasons for prac¬ 
ticing it. First, manure as received fresh 
from the city is too coarse and strawy 
to apply broadcast to our sandy soils 
when received. Second, I want to apply 
it with the manure spreader because it 
goes farther broken up finer, and spreads 
more evenly. In making ready to pile a 
large heap of manure for Winter stor¬ 
age, my practice has been to lay a foun¬ 
dation about one foot thick of anything 
that can be gathered around the farm, 
that will answer for that purpose. This 
takes care of the'soakage. On this, we 
begin building the heap, and about every 
foot or 14 inches of manure, the heap is 
leveled and trodden with a pair of 
horses. This is thoroughly done, con¬ 
tinuing the practice as the heap grows 
in thickness. When completed, the heap 
is usually three or more feet thick, when 
it is very thoroughly trodden again. 
Now, by spreading about two inches of 
soil over the heap, and packing it down 
quite hard, the loss by fermentation is 
cut down to a minimum. If weather 
conditions are favorable, I try to spread 
in February; this, however, is not al¬ 
ways accomplished, many times it is 
early March before the job is completed. 
Some years ago, I sent two samples of 
manure to the New Jersey Experiment 
Station for analysis, with the result that 
the sample of fresh manure analyzed 
considerably higher than the old. Never¬ 
theless, were I to anply this new coarse 
strawy manure to my sandy soil for 
truck crops, the soil would become so 
loose and porous, and admit air so free¬ 
ly, that it would be almost impossible to 
grow crops upon it, hence the method 
described above, irrespective of some 
loss of fertility. On the other hand, 
were my soil of a clayey nature, with a 
reasonably tight clayey subsoil, I would 
prefer broadcasting the new manure as 
received, feeling that by so doing, this 
new strawy undecayed manure would 
loosen up the soil, let in more air and 
sunlight, dry the soil out more quickly 
and make it more easily cultivated. This 
is a question, where no one not knowing 
the conditions, can lay down ironclad 
rules for another. The farmer must be 
governed by his soil, the topography of 
his farm, the kind of crops he wishes to 
grow and then be his own judge. 
_C. C. HULSART. 
ASPARAGUS GROWING IN MAINE. 
In the matter of advice to intending 
asparagus growers, there are some things 
worth considering, which were not men¬ 
tioned by Mr. Black, page 1024. The plot 
of ground should be level that the 
deep, light, and well-worked soil may 
not be washed away by rains. The as¬ 
paragus should not be set so deep in the 
North that the sun’s heat will not reach 
it early, and yet it should be so deep 
that a Cutaway or disk harrow may be 
used repeatedly in early Spring, to work 
in the heavy coat of manure which was 
spread over the bed in the Fall. If the 
plants are set in long rows, frequent har- 
rowings as above are possible, before the 
asparagus starts, and this saves an im¬ 
mense amount of hand labor, in forking 
and raking the bed. After the Cutaway 
the spike-tooth harrow, alternating with 
the clod crusher, may be used till the 
asparagus is nearing the surface of the 
ground, without damaging the new 
shoots. And the bed will be in much 
better condition, with a deep, light and 
porous soil, than if hand labor alone had 
been used. g. s. paine. 
Maine. _ 
Apple Seedlings as Grafting Stock. 
—I think E. S. Black's suggestions, page 
1021, excellent on this subject except 
the grafting, which I would do immedi¬ 
ately the Spring, after setting, or let 
grow two years before grafting. The 
grafting immediately after setting, if it 
fails, does no hurt to the stock, as it 
ought to be cut back anyway. The Spring 
after setting has not been very success¬ 
ful with us. I would prefer to hud in 
August after setting, cutting back at 
time of setting trees, and then inserting 
bud in new growth. This can be repeat¬ 
ed until all the trees have a new full 
top. I think budding the most satisfac¬ 
tory way -of changing the top of most 
fruit trees. i. j. blackwell. 
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xe Talks 
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