THE RURAL RE W-YORKER 
147 
1908. 
WESTERN NEW YORK HORTICULTURAL 
SOCIETY. 
pakt nr. 
ITof. Judson gave a short talk on apple 
packing, and demonstrated same by exhibit¬ 
ing a table used in packing box apples, in 
packing a lew apples in boxes and at the 
game time explaining the different steps in 
the process. These tables are made to ac¬ 
commodate two packers standing on oppo¬ 
site sides and packing two different sizes. 
The bottom of the table is of canvas, hung 
with a shallow dish shape, and a second 
loose cover of canvas is placed over the first 
one to facilitate cleaning the table. Brack¬ 
ets are provided at the sides of the. table for 
holding the box at an angle, the farther 
end being considerably higher than the end 
next, the packer. A little shelf is made to 
hang on side of box to hold the wrapping 
papers, and is known as the paper hod. 
The packer wears a rubber finger cot on 
his left hand to facilitate picking up the 
sheets of wrapping paper. The box is first 
lined with two sheets of paper, each having 
a pleat at the corner of the box to allow 
for the bulge, and lapping at the center of 
the bottom On this is placed a white paper 
board a trifle smaller than bottom of box 
and then the first layer of apples is put in. 
The packer reaches for an apple witli his 
right hand and a sheet of paper with his 
left and placing the apple, stem end in the 
center of paper draws the paper around the 
apple and twists it with an easy rapid mo¬ 
tion. In fact this wrapping can be done 
so quickly that it takes but little longer to 
wrap and pack than it does to pack without 
wrapping. The apples are placed in box 
stem down, and when the layer is com¬ 
pleted another paper board is placed on 
them and the process repeated, with the ex¬ 
ception that the succeeding layers are placed 
stem up as, unlike barrels, the top as packed 
is the top when opened. The center of the 
top layer midway between the ends should 
be about an inch higher than the apples 
next the ends, so that the apples may be 
held firmly. As top and bottom both have 
this bulge the boxes are packed on their 
sides and sometimes on end. For this rea¬ 
son the sides should be heavy enough not 
to bulge. A packing demonstration was also 
carried on between sessions. This short 
talk on packing was much more valuable 
than a very long lecture or paper without 
the demonstrations would have been. 
S. II. Fulton, of Sleepy Creek, W. Va., 
was the next speaker, Ills subject being 
“Planting and Caring for a Peach Orchard’” 
As profit is the first consideration in a com¬ 
mercial orchard a man who contemplates 
one should make a study of his conditions, 
competition and enemies. A north or north¬ 
west site is preferable, as is also a sandy 
or gravelly soil, though peaches can be 
grown on almost any soil if it is well 
drained. Great care should be exercised in 
procuring trees from a nursery, to make 
sure they are not infested with yellows. 
Many have sustained serious loss by setting 
diseased trees. Mr. Fulton said they were 
now propagating their own trees to make 
sure of healthy ones. They get their seed 
from a section where yellows Is not preva¬ 
lent, and their budding wood from known 
healthy trees. Varieties like Elberta, Bello 
of Georgia and others of that type are 
their principal ones, and they also have had 
good success with Carman and some of the 
newer varieties. Spring planting is best 
especially for northern latitudes. In regard 
to mixed plantings of apple and peach, its 
success depends mostly on the man. Prune 
thoroughly and head the trees low. From 
10 to 14 inches from the ground is high 
enough, and they have some trees that 
branch right from the ground. Three limbs 
are better than more in starting the top. 
Thorough cultivation is practiced, using 
cover crops later in the season. lie advises 
low hoed crops as nurse crops during the 
first years when trees are small. He be¬ 
lieves it profitable to let hogs have the run 
of the orchard until peaches begin to ripen. 
Use lime-sulphur for the scale and Peach 
leaf curl, and dig out borers. After digging 
out borers be careful not to leave a nollow 
around the tree, or serious injury is apt to 
result. For yellows remove trees as soon 
as discovered. Do not set varieties that are 
subject to brown rot. 
“Small Fruit Culture,” by W. W. Farns¬ 
worth, of Waterville, Ohio, was the next 
paper taken up. He said small fruit culture 
was a convenient side line to orchard fruits. 
The points to consider in choosing a loca¬ 
tion are a suitable soil, an elevation that 
will provide good air drainage, thus escap¬ 
ing many frosts that will fall on the lower 
land and in pockets, nearness to source of 
manure supply and a plentiful supply of 
help, transportation facilities and a liking 
for the business. Soil should be thoroughly 
underdrained unless naturally well drained 
and should always he well prepared, never 
losing sight of the fact that to do their 
best plants must have an abundance of 
food, moisture and warmth. Choose var¬ 
ieties to suit your market and prolong the 
season. For the strawberry ho said me¬ 
chanical condition of the soil was more im¬ 
portant than fertility. He prefers a clover 
sod manured in midsummer and plowed in 
the Fall. Work thoroughly in Spring, as 
early as conditions will permit, making bed 
fine and compact, and set as early as pos¬ 
sible, shortening the roots to about four 
inches. He sets with a horse transplanter 
in rows four feet apart, and from one to 
three feet in row, depending on variety and 
their ability to make runners. Begin cul¬ 
tivation at once. Keep blossoms off and 
place runners to fill any vacancies. He 
grows in thinly matted rows from 15 to 18 
inches wide, and keeps extra runners cut 
off. Begin mulching before ground freezes, 
and in Spring remove mulch from rows and 
leave in middles. Don’t try to grow mulch 
in field with the berries. The same soil 
requirements and preparation are needed for 
raspberries, and they may be set in the Fall, 
early Spring or by choosing suitable weather 
and moving with a spadeful of earth they 
can be safely set in late Spring after they 
have made some growth. Deep planting is 
desirable for blackcaps. Cultivate shallow 
with sweep shovels to avoid cutting roots 
and causing new sprouts to spring up. Do 
not have too many canes in the row. For 
red raspberries 25 to 30 canes per rod is 
sufficient, if plants are plentiful, set from 
six to eight inches in row when planting, 
and in this way a full crop may be secured 
the second year. This is of especial benefit 
where root gall and anthracnose prevail, 
and prevent the long standing of a patch. 
Cut out of the bearing canes as soon as 
through fruiting, and treat extra new canes 
as weeds. Blackl>erries need similar treat¬ 
ment to black raspberries, but can be suc¬ 
cessfully grown by working the middles of 
rows and mulching around the plants. Cur¬ 
rants need rich heavy soil and plenty of 
stable manure. They are suitable to grow 
in young orchards, as they do well in partial 
shade, and the shade helps hold crop on 
bushes until late in the season. Plant 
deeply to secure a low branching plant with 
from six to eight branches, and if neces¬ 
sary cut back to secure this form. In prun¬ 
ing cut out sortie of the old wood each year 
to be replaced with new. Vegetables may 
be grown between the bushes th,e first year, 
but after that practice clean cultivation 
followed by cover crops sown in August. 
Turnips and clover make a good cover crop. 
One secret of success in growing small fruits 
is to be fully prepared for marketing before 
crops begin to ripen. 
The editor of The It.- N.-Y. gave a very 
short talk, in which he said this society 
was built on honor and would endure. Judg¬ 
ing from its good growth and fruitfulness 
he thought it must be well cultivated. He 
said in olden times when the people had 
gained a great victory or accomplished a 
groat achievement they built a temple and 
filled it with treasure to commemorate the 
event and keep It in the minds of their de- 
cendants. He would like to see this society 
build a home and fill it with horticultural 
treasure, and he said if each member would 
donate a few barrels of apples this could 
soon be accomplished. 
As the time was short. Geo. T. Powell 
read only part of his paper on “Dwarf Apple 
Trees in Commercial Orchards and the 
Value and Possibilities in Dwarfing Stand¬ 
ard Trees Through Special Means of Prun¬ 
ing.” He had charts Illustrating methods 
of pruning and plans of setting. In regard 
to dwarf trees, he said that, trees on Para¬ 
dise stock reached a height of eight to nine 
feet, and trees on Doucin stock »made semi¬ 
dwarfs reaching a height of 10 to IS feet. 
Land for dwarfs should be loamy, with some 
clay, but they will grow on sandy soil, 
though they will not grow so large or vig¬ 
orously. They need more cultivation and 
pruning than standards, and better care in 
general. In Europe they are set from six 
to eight feet apart. The plan he has fol¬ 
lowed was to set trees on Doucin stock 20 
feet apart each way, and then set trees on 
Paradise stock 10 feet apart between the 
Doucin one way, giving rows 20 feet apart 
and trees 10 feet in the row. In a later 
planting they set standards 50x50 feet, 
Doucin 25x25 feet and then Paradise 12 VOx 
12% feet. Dwarfs should he planted deeper 
in the orchard than standards, and the 
union should he from four to five Inches 
below the surface. Otherwise the heavy 
tops and loads of fruit, being out of pro¬ 
portion to the dwarf root and its bold upon 
the ground, will break the whole tree over 
or break it off at the union. The varieties 
he recommended on Paradise were the finest 
dessert varieties: Spltzenburg, Jonathan, 
Newtown Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, Mc¬ 
Intosh, Grimes Golden, Chenango and Fall 
Strawberry. The Fall Strawberry lie said 
was especially adapted to dwarf culture, is 
an exceptionally fine dessert apple and 
ripens over a period of four to five weeks. 
For Doucin, the best standard commercial 
varieties: Northern Spy, Baldwin, It. I. 
Greening, Itoxbury Russet, Fall Pippin, 
Duchess, Wealthy. Twenty Ounce and Bed 
Astrachan. Start the head with four 
branches, the lower two 12 or 14 inches 
from the ground. Prune systematically, 
cutting back to keep head down and com¬ 
pact. Cultivate thoroughly, seeding to clover 
for cover crop. Use 18 pounds clover seed 
per acre, one-half Red and one-half Crim¬ 
son. It is necessary to get a strong an¬ 
nual growth to keep orchard in a good pay¬ 
ing condition. Insects and diseases are 
much more easily controlled on these dwarf 
trees. When blight appears cut out at once 
and burn. Thinning is easily practiced on 
these low heads, and should not be neglected 
to prevent the trees from overbearing, and 
to get the finest fruit. Standards can bo 
partially dwarfed and brought into earlj' 
bearing by pruning in July. Prune just be¬ 
fore growth is completed. G. R. s. 
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