776 
THE RURAL* NEW-YORKER 
October 3, 
AILING ANIMALS. 
Worms in Horse. 
What kind of medicine shall I give to. my 
horse for worms? lie has both short and 
long worms. s. B. 
New Jersey. 
Starve the horse for 12 hours and then 
give him at one dose, slowly and carefully 
from a long-necked bottle, a mixture of 
two ounces of turpentine and one pint of 
raw linseed oil well shaken together. In 
the feed night and morning, commencing 24 
hours after the dose of oil and turpentine, 
mix a tablespoonful of a mixture of equal 
parts dried sulphate of iron, flowers of sul¬ 
phur, common salt and ground gentian 
root. Continue for 10 days; then skip 10 
days and repeat the treatment. Avoid 
feeding hay that was mowed from low, wet 
land. See that the watering trough is clean. 
Keep the horse off pasture. a. s. a. 
Hand-Raising a Foal. 
I have a colt which the mare will not 
own, and I must raise ft by hand. It is 12 
days old. I give it one-half pint of cow’s 
milk mixed with oatmeal every three hours; 
it seems to be a little weak across the hind 
quarters. Am I giving it enough? If not, 
how much should I give, and what should 
I give It? f. b. s. 
New Jersey. 
Mare’s milk is sweeter and poorer in 
butter fat than that of the cow, so that 
in using cow’s milk for a foal, milk of a 
low-testing cow (three per cent or lower), 
should be chosen by preference, and then 
should be used as follows; Dissolve a des¬ 
sertspoonful of granulated sugar in a little 
warm water, then add three tablespoonfuls 
of lime water, and cow’s milk to make one 
pint, and of this allow the new-born foal 
half a cupful once an hour at first (John¬ 
stone), and gradually incre the amount 
of milk and feed less of the foal 
grows in days and strength, ai e present 
age the foal should be fed six times a day, 
and will take about a pint at a time. If 
he scours, and all hand-raised foals scour 
more or less, give two ounces of castor oil 
shaken up in a litllo milk, and feed less 
milk and weaken it with water, or add more 
lime water. In three or four weeks he 
should learn to drink from a pail, and will 
do without sugar in his milk. At this time, 
too, he should commence to lick and eat a 
mixture of fine oatmeal, three parts, and 
bran one part, and may be given all he cares 
for as he becomes used to it, and at two 
months or so sweet skim-milk may be given 
instead of new milk. The milk for a young 
foal at first may be given from a well- 
scalded bottle having a large straight rubber 
nipple. a. s. a. 
Chronic Catarrh in Horse. 
Does a horse ever have catarrh? If so, 
how does it affect the breathing, and what 
is the remedy? My horse had distemper 
a year ago, and his wind has been bad 
since. There is a whitish discharge from 
the nose after driving or working hard. 
While trotting he breathes quite hard, but 
pull him into a walk and he takes one 
long breath and then breathes naturally. 
Massachusetts. h. e. m. 
Catarrh is quite a common result of a 
badly or unsuccessfully treated case of 
strangles (distemper), or influenza, but it is 
not usually accompanied by difficulty or ab¬ 
normality in breathing. Your horse evident¬ 
ly is a “roarer” from paralysis of the vocal 
cord and cartilages of the larynx, and the 
discharge from the nose is occasioned by 
irritation of the mucous membranes of the 
nose and throat induced during labor. Roar¬ 
ing is incurable in a majority of cases, but 
in a few a difficult and expensive operation, 
known as “arytenectomy,” may succeed. This 
operation would scarcely be profitable for 
an ordinary farm horse. Try effects of 
blister applied from ear to ear after remov¬ 
ing the hair; wet all food and give a dram 
of iodide of potash in drinking water night 
and morning for four successive days a week 
for two weeks and then give half an ounce 
of Fowler’s solution of arsenic night and 
morning for two weeks, at end of which time 
gradually reduce the doses daily until in an¬ 
other week he is doing without the arsenic. 
The arsenic may, however, be given for a 
longer time, or may be repeated at any time 
if it has been found beneficial. a. s. a. 
Broken Down Boar. 
I have a fine O. I. C. boar I fed almost 
too strong. He got weak behind. 1 got 
him all right, but he walks slowly. Now 
he is getting a growth on the knee joint. 
I rubbed coal oil on it and it is better, but 
still is a little lame. What can I do for 
him ? L. b. B. 
Pennsylvania. 
Where a hog breaks down on his hind 
pasterns so that the “dew claws” come too 
close to the ground, or where he goes down 
paralyzed, the common cause is rickets, 
the tendency to which is hereditary, and the 
common cause of the attack is stuffing upon 
some incomplete ration, such as corn, or it 
may be brought out by irritation and indi¬ 
gestion caused by worms. Overfeeding in 
the case in question induced indigestion, 
and that means malnutrition and rickets, 
and it will he found impossible to put the 
boar upon his feet again. He may improve 
somewhat, but once broken down in the pas¬ 
terns it is rare for a hog wholly to recover, 
and such a weakness is the dread of the 
swine breeder who pampers and overfeeds 
his hogs for show purposes. It also should 
be the dread of the farmer who is foolish 
enough to buy a boar of that sort to beget 
the pigs he needs so badly to help market 
his crops and pay the expenses of his liv¬ 
ing. To prevent breaking down and drag¬ 
ging of the hind quarters use strong, robust 
boars from herds where pampering is not 
done, and where plenty of exercise on green 
feed is allowed in addition to an abundance 
of mixed foods. Reject for breeding pur¬ 
poses any sow that has had rickety pigs. 
At the first sign of the trouble decrease the 
fattening food and increase the nitrogenous 
(protein) foods. Also mix lime water free¬ 
ly with all food and drink, and make the 
pigs live an outdoor life. In the case of 
your boar feed a slop of milk, middlings or 
shorts, bran and flaxseed meal, and add one- 
fifth part lime water at each feed. Each 
other day rub the enlargement of the joint 
with iodine ointment. Allow him free 
range when the state of the weather will 
allow, and see that he has a dry bed. 
a. s. a. 
Milkless Cow. 
I have a purebred Jersey cow that should 
give from three to four gallons of milk 
per day; that is, she has done so with 
her first two calves. Ten days ago she 
had her third calf, and I went right to 
work on her udder to keep it soft, thinking 
that as usual I would have to milk out a 
whole lot of surplus milk. To my surprise 
I found that she had no milk, but T was 
still not worried much, thinking that it 
would come in a day or two. This is the 
tenth day, and she barely has enough to 
keep the calf alive; in fact he never seems 
to be satisfied. The cow is in fine condition, 
and is getting her regular good feeds of 
prepared cow feed besides good grazing. 
Her udder so far as I can see is all right, 
not a bit of hardness, in fact it is as slack 
and flabby as a dry cow. Can you tell me 
what to do? Do you think the milk will 
ever come, and if it does not what do you 
think of her in the future with other calves? 
I milked the cow up to two weeks before 
she had this calf without knowing that it 
was quite that close, and some suggest that 
that is the cause. J. B. b. 
South Carolina. 
It certainly would have been better to 
rest the cow longer before calving, but the 
long lactation period may not be the true 
cause of the present lack of milk, nor is it 
possible to assign a cause satisfactorily in 
such cases. Evidently the udder fails to 
elaborate milk, although the cow is in fine 
condition, and there is therefore ample ma¬ 
terial for milk formation in her system. 
Under the circumstances we would advise 
massaging the udder very thoroughly three 
times daily, going through the motions of 
milking and kneading the udder, but not 
necessarily removing the milk if the calf is 
being allowed to suckle. After the rubbing 
foment and rub the udder with good brandy, 
but omit this at noon. Feed for milk pro¬ 
duction and in each feed mix a tahlespoonful 
of a mixture of sulphuret of antimony, one 
ounce; sulphur, half ounce;powdered fennel, 
carraway seeds and juniper berries, of each 
1 y 2 ounce; common salt, five ounces; mix. 
a. s. A. 
PRIZE CATTLE AT FAIRS. 
I have read with interest the dis¬ 
cussion on exhibiting cattle at the fairs, 
and think such discussions are of value, 
although sometimes misleading. Your 
first correspondent is greatly misinformed, 
and exaggerates conditions which pre¬ 
vail in the show ring beyond all rea¬ 
son. After an experience covering a dec¬ 
ade as a constant exhibitor I have ascer¬ 
tained these facts: If an animal I am show¬ 
ing does not have a pronounced dairy form, 
good healthful appearance and freedom from 
fat I might as well leave it at home. Most 
of our present-day judges are ready to turn 
down any animal carrying high flesh. The 
chief trouble with the small or casual ex¬ 
hibitor is that firstly, he is not a good judge 
of his breed from lack of knowledge of the 
accepted type of the present day; secondly 
that he takes his cattle from his home and 
goes perhaps to only one fair, and everyone 
knows that cattle “gaunt up” terribly when 
put on dry feed and shipped to a strange 
fair ground, and when a judge sees the 
cattle in such sad plight, often in almost 
unpresentable shape, he may pass by really 
good animals, and justly leave them out of 
the prize money. The third reason for 
lack of success of the amateur exhibitor 
is his total lack of knowledge pertaining 
to the proper care and exhibition of ani¬ 
mals. 
It seems to be the general opinion that 
the small exhibitor has no chance at the 
State fairs, but this is with a few excep¬ 
tions entirely untrue, and if a man fails to 
lead his animals to victory it is reasonably 
certain that the fault lies with the man and 
not with the judge. It is no uncommon 
occurrence to see a man bring an animal 
into the ring in unmanageable condition, 
and then ensues the same performance ex¬ 
perienced on every farm when one tries to 
halter-break a large animal. Is it likely 
that such an exhibitor stands much show 
against another with a well-trained beast 
that is induced to present all its good 
points in perfect pose? There are a hun¬ 
dred and one little things that need atten¬ 
tion to become successful as an exhibitor, 
most of which are within the reach of the 
poorest breeders. Really the breeder of 
limited resources has an equal chance with 
the millionaire showman in all tilings ex¬ 
cept numbers of animals, as it is only neces¬ 
sary to attend to details and make a care¬ 
ful study of the chosen breeds. If anyone 
will take the trouble to make a trip to two 
or three county fairs in New York State 
he will, I believe,, be impressed with the 
fact that many dairy cattle are shown too 
thin rather than too fat. Another unfor¬ 
tunate feature is that many animals are 
shown that are so deficient in udder, milk 
vein, dairy excellence and beauty of form 
that they disgrace the breed they represent. 
It must be apparent that many really good 
dairy cows are not good types of their re¬ 
spective breeds. In order to maintain a 
breed at all there must be some accepted 
type, and if it were not for competitive 
exhibitions what incentive would a breeder 
have to Improve animal form and function ? 
I am strongly in favor of dairy tests and 
judging from a strict dairy standard, but 
there is no man living who can with cer¬ 
tainty tell which of a dozen really fine cows 
will give the most pounds of butter and 
milk as viewed from the show ring, hence 
for the benefit of breed development is it 
not right to award the prize to the animal 
most nearly approaching the accepted type 
of the breed? In order to determine the 
comparative value of cows for the dairy 
alone let us resort to that sure way, the 
Babcock test and milk scales. If we have 
no pleasure in developing animal beauty 
with utility it is certainly a condition far 
removed from the spirit of the true breeder. 
New Hampshire, frank reed sanders. 
Cane Skimmings for Hogs. 
Will it pay me to haul the green skim¬ 
mings of cane three miles to feed to my 
hogs? How are turnips to feed to hogs? 
Ansonia, Ohio. j. c. H. 
We have not been able to find an analysis 
of such skimmings. Can any practical man 
tell about feeding them? Turnips will an¬ 
swer for part of the ration, but hogs will 
not eat them well when they can get clover 
or grain. We feed a good many in Fall and 
Winter—cooking the turnips and sprinkling 
cornmeal over them. Sheep do much bet¬ 
ter on turnips. 
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