1908. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
875 
Buiiding a Cement Wall. 
F. TP. II., New Jersey .—I would like in¬ 
formation on building a cement wall - I 
have an addition to one side of my house, 
eight-foot posts, 20 feet long and eight feet 
wide. One side rests on an old wall, which 
is solid, and I want a foundation under 
the other side that will not heave. The 
space under the addition is of no value, 
but if the dirt is out the rooms will be 
warmer. The wall must be six feet high 
to be below frost. How heavy should the 
wall be? Should it be of cement and sand 
only? IIow much cement will it take, and 
what proportion of cement to sand? 
Ans. —The wall need not be more 
than one foot thick. Use one part ce¬ 
ment, two of coarse sand and four of 
coarse gravel or crushed rock. One 
barrel, four sacks, of cement would lay 
15 cubic feet of wall. If clean stone 
four to eight inches in diameter are 
available these may be added in the 
concrete, as the form is filled layer by 
layer, thus saving nearly half in the 
volume of concrete needed. f. h. k. 
“ Hog Haw ” Stock for Pears. 
J. M. B., Cory, Ind. —One of the large 
nurserymen of this State claims that one 
reason for blight in pear trees is that most 
of them are grafted on “hog haw” which 
makes a nice tree at the time of delivery, 
but when the pear tree makes more growth 
the root system of the “hog haw” is insuffi¬ 
cient to support the tree, and it blights. 
This nurseryman claims that the pear 
should be grafted on a whole-root pear or 
a root-stock which is obtained in France. 
Please let H. E. Van Deman or some other 
authority tell what there is in the claim. 
Ans. —If there are many pear trees 
grown by any nursery on “hog haw” 
roots (that is, a wild species of Crataegus, 
I suppose,) I have never heard of it nor 
seen the trees. But it will grow thus 
grafted, and I have tried it, but the 
union is not good nor durable. J. M. B. 
is right in thinking that the best stock 
for standard pear trees is the French 
seedling. This is generally used by all 
good nurserymen. Japan seedlings have 
also been used, and I think with good 
success. I have seen many so propa¬ 
gated that were all right so far as they 
had grown when I saw them. 
H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Seedling Rhubarb and Asparagus. 
L. M. L., Pulaski, N. Y .—1. Last Spring I 
sowed some rhubarb seed; plants are about 
18 inches high and each has a seed pod. 
What treatment should they have to get 
them ready to set next Spring? I can find 
no instructions anywhere. 2. I noticed in 
one paper that some growers were sowing 
asparagus seed where plants are to stand. 
Do you know if this is a good practice? I 
want to put out an acre. 
Ans. —1. There is no special treatment 
to give' young rhubarb plants prior to 
setting. I would let them remain where 
they are till early next Spring, then 
take them up with as little mutilation of 
the roots as possible and plant them 
where they are to remain. I believe it 
would have been better had inquirer re¬ 
moved all seed stalks from his young- 
plants. It would have been less drain 
on the plants, hence they would have 
been larger and stronger. Here, no one 
attempts to grow rhubarb from seed. It 
is done by dividing the roots. By this 
method the grower can discard all plants 
that do not suit his purpose. In grow¬ 
ing rhubarb from seed it is hard to get 
a uniform lot of plants, because this 
vegetable does not come absolutely true 
from seed. I have found in practice 
that there is much more in selecting and 
preparing the ground for setting the 
plants than there is in caring for the 
plants from now till planting time. The 
rhubarb plant is a gross feeder, hence it 
requires a good soil, a deep soil, and 
heavy applications of both manure and 
fertilizers for quickest and best returns. 
2. The sowing of asparagus seed where 
it is to remain is new in asparagus 
culture. It has, however, its advantages 
and disadvantages. If the grower can 
meet conditions as they arise, and not 
let weeds or any foul growth overrun 
his plants, and he is willing to do a 
tremendous amount of work in weeding 
by hand below the natural level of the 
soil, and has time and inclination to 
fight the Asparagus bugs and their young 
over a large area, never allowing those 
insects to get advantage of the young 
plants, then and not till then, is planting 
asparagus seed where it is to remain 
likely to be a success. I am confident 
from what I know of the plant and its 
habits that where a grower can meet all 
the conditions of care and protection of 
this plant, the planting of the seed where 
it is to remain will save one year in 
reaching the point where a full crop can 
be harvested. Remember these condi¬ 
tions must be met and handled at the 
right time, or an uneven stand of plants 
will result. A ragged bed is very poor 
property for anyone to own. 
c. c. HULSART. 
Alfalfa Questions. 
H., Neiccastle, Me .—I am interested in 
the Alfalfa crop; have a small patch and 
a fair catch last year. Will that soil in¬ 
oculate in the Spring of 1909? In H. H. 
D.’s article on Alfalfa growing, are we to 
understand that he did not inoculate his 
lands? Will land broken this Autumn be 
suitable to sow Alfalfa next Spring, limed, 
etc.? 
M. K. W., Northville, Conn .—How much 
lime to an acre, in preparing for Alfalfa, 
from a perpetual kiln, the refuse of which 
consists of small pieces of quicklime mixed 
with wood ashes, as they use wood for 
burning the lime? 
Ans. —There is a very great deal that 
we do not know yet about the inocula¬ 
tion of fields with Alfalfa and other 
kinds of germs. It seems true that when 
stable manures are used freely on the 
soil Alfalfa inoculation comes very 
promptly of its own accord, and when 
no manure has been used it is harder 
to get inoculation, and it must be intro¬ 
duced artificially. Any soil that has 
grown Alfalfa well for one year is 
filled with the helpful bacteria, and can 
be used for inoculating new fields. As 
to the lime and wood ashes, waste 
from the kiln, it should be an excellent 
combination, having in it both lime and 
potash. How much to use depends a 
good deal on the character of the soil. 
One cannot use large amounts of caustic 
lime without more or less danger of 
injuring humus; probably the use of 
two to four/tons per acre would be 
right for Alfalfa.. And get that lime 
on as long as you can before time to 
seed Alfalfa, and mixed through the 
soil. We constantly advise the use of 
ground limestone, carbonate of lime, 
since it never hurts soils, but there are 
situations where it is not available, and 
the fresh burned lime is; then use what 
is at hand. Some readers have written 
asking if I own limestone quarries! I 
do not. I never sold a pound of lime 
in any form, and never expect to sell 
any. But I do love Alfalfa, and dream 
about it and try hard to help men to 
grow it. CHAS. B. WING. 
m DREW CARRIER 
fNIpSi 
■ •uao't f 0 ' ;i ” : — 
^.^ 
DUMPING 
Besides it makes easy work of the drudgery of farm 
labor. The operator works in the shelter of the barn at all 
times. He simply loads the manure and gives the car a push. 
It runs to the place desired, dumps automatically. It is swung 
into position with the hand or fork, and is again ready to fill. 
Note how the three operations are shown above. 
The carrier method insures cleanliness and ban¬ 
ishes a fruitful source of disease by removing manure 
away from the barns. It saves the liquid manure, 
the most valuable part. In wages of help alone, the 
Drew Carrier, saves its entire cost in a few months. 
Oskaloosa.Kans.,3-23-08 
Drew Elevated Carrier Co. 
I am very much pleased with 
the system and regret that I 
did not install it earlier in the 
winter. I can save one day 
every week over the old wheel 
barrow system 
There is no Drew Carrier excepting 
the one made by the Drew Elevated 
Carrier Co., Waterloo, Wis. There are 
others that are made to LOOK like the 
Drew, but they are not the Drew, in fact 
nor in quality. Ask us about Drew carriers. 
turned end for end without lifting from the track, 
and the difficulty of turning corners is overcome.' 
Besides handling the manure, the Drew carrier 
can be used to transport hay, ensilage, grain, 
milk cans, barrels, earth or anything you wish to 
carry to and from the barns. 
We want to send you our 
new booklet on Drew carriers 
and other Drew time- labor- 
money-saving implements. 
Write for the book today— 
just a postal card—and it will 
be sent FREE. 
Address all correspondence 
F. J. SEARLE, Prop. E. Side Dairy Farm, to the home office, Waterloo, Wisconsin. 
And it will last a lifetime. No machinery to wear 
out. There is no trestle work or supports to en¬ 
cumber your barn yard and get out of repair. 
The Swivel Trolley is a feature original with the 
Drew. With this improvement, the car can be 
DREW ELEVATED CARRIER COMPANY 
115 Monroe Street, Waterloo, Wisconsin. 
Eastern Branch: Rome, New York 
Pacific Br: Mitchell, Lewis & Stayer Co., Portland, Ore. 
HIDES 
HIDES 
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212 Hooker Ave., Three Hirers, Mich. 
Gwm 
This 
We have a size to suit your power and requirements. Get one 
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now. Lumber is high. The 
mill will soon pay for it¬ 
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No Belts, Springs or compli- 
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JAW 
MUZ 
// 
order or cause trouble. 
Thesawerhas complete 
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Hope St., Hackettstown, N. J. 1582 Terminal Bldgs., New York 
msrwfflaf] HERCULES STEEL STUMP PULLER 
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Centerville. Iowa, U. S. A, 
irect To You—At Reduced Price—A ^ 
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No Money Down 
40 Years The Standard and Better this Year than Ever Before 
We Pay Freight 
,ok 
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But what we want you to note particularly 
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more ^ QUAKER CITY FAMILY OF GRlMDfly . 
favorably known than PLACEANDBYHIL^^m 
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have 
BO&W 
C8 A H 12 
11 Sizes—22 Styles 
From Hand to 20-Horse Power 
See Our Improvements 
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THE A. G. STRAUB COMPANY 
3737 Filbert Street 
Philadelphia, Pa 
