© 4 t 4 
THE RURAL- NEW-YORKER 
December 5, 
BUTTER FROM ONE COW. 
Every year we have a number of ques¬ 
tions from people who keep one cow and 
want to make blitter from this small amount 
of cream. It seems to be easy to obtain 
information about butter making on a large 
scale, but those who try to make a pound 
or two at a time have no rules to go by. 
We have seen people shaking the cream in 
a bottle or jar, or stirring it with a spoon, 
thus making a sort of cheesy mass. The 
following article is written by a Delaware 
woman, and is about the best statement of 
the best way of handling one cow's cream 
that we have read : 
Both in Winter and Summer I use a 
cylinder churn holding three gallons, a 
little wooden butter bowl measuring 12 
inches across the top, and a wooden 
ladle. I like this little churn better for 
this warm country, as I can churn as 
much as four pounds at one churning 
and as low as one-half pound or less. 
Then it is small, easy and light to 
handle; quickly cleaned and dried. Last 
Winter I used a “deep-setting canit 
is 19 inches high and measures 27 inches 
around the outside; has a flat lid on top, 
a handle like a pail, and at the bottom 
there is a glass set in to show the cream, 
and a tap at bottom to run off the milk. 
I use this can for the morning’s milk, 
which is about five quarts, and cool with 
water and ice; the night’s milking is 
not much over three quarts. I strain in 
small basins (after setting separately 
what I want to use). I add as much 
water as milk (morning also) ; in the 
Winter hot water; Summer cold. As 
the milk is for pigs it does not hurt it, 
and the cream separates better. I churn 
three times each week in Winter, and 
during the hot Summer months nearly 
every' morning, as I find I can keep the 
butter better and sweeter than the 
cream. In the Winter I use eight-quart 
tin pails to put the cream in. As the 
ripening of the cream is the finest point 
in butter making, I skim all the cream 
while sweet in one of these eight-quart 
pails. When I have gathered six or 
seven quarts of cream I put in one-half 
cupful of buttermilk, for a starter, from 
the previous churning. I stir all well 
together and set at the back of the stove 
to ripen, where it will keep warm, cov¬ 
ering over with a lid and towel. I do 
this in the morning of the day before 
churning; three or four times during 
the day I lift the cover and stir lightly 
once around. When the cream has be¬ 
come pleasantly acid and just starting to 
thicken, I remove cover and set away 
in a cool place until the next morning; 
it usually takes from seven to 10 hours, 
according to the heat, as it will ripen 
much quicker a warm day than a cold 
one. When ready to churn, heat up 
again to the temperature for churning; 
I churn at 68 degrees F. in Winter, 
lower in Summer. The cream should 
have a sweet acid flavor, and a velvety 
appearance when ready for churning. I 
use the tin for cream in Winter, as the 
cream ripens much better in it. During 
the hot Summer months I use one-gal¬ 
lon stone jars, as the milk is generally 
thick when skimmed; I can then keep 
the cream colder in stone than tin, as I 
use cold water for setting cream jars 
and milk in. I never skim new cream in 
just before churning, as it will not 
churn the same and is lost in the butter¬ 
milk. I use no starter when the milk is 
sour when skimmed. As there are no cel¬ 
lars here in this section of country, and 
no farmers have ice, I use small tin pails 
in Summer to strain the milk in and 
cool in tubs of cold water. I use one 
ounce of salt to the pound (one heap¬ 
ing tablespoonful), according to strength 
of salt and customers. For my churn¬ 
ing (two pounds at a churning or little 
over) I put in 12 or 13 drops of color. 
It takes me from 15 to 20 minutes to 
churn. I use a dairy thermometer, F. 
sjale. It is a round glass tube, with 
churning, cheese, etc., marked on it. I 
wash my butter through two waters, or 
until the water comes off clear, and the 
same temperature as the cream, then 
take from the churn into the little but¬ 
ter-bowl and salt; let stand one hour, 
then press as much water out as pos¬ 
sible, weigh and form in one-pound 
rolls, wrap in a sheet of dampened but¬ 
ter paper, place in a large stone jar for 
market day. I run off the buttermilk 
through a fine wire strainer to catch any 
particles of fine butter, also put the 
cream in the churn through a strainer 
in the Winter time, to make it more 
even. When ripening the cream I turn 
the pail around occasionally that it may 
not get too warm on one side. 
Cream from the milk of a fresh milk¬ 
ing cow will rise faster and better 
than from the milk of a cow that has 
been milking a long time; also, cream 
will rise faster and better from the 
milk of a cow that is fed cow peas, a ? 
the percentage of butter fat is so much 
greater. The Ontario Agricultural Col¬ 
lege allows no soap on tin dairy uten¬ 
sils, but uses the common baking soda, 
as it is better in the slops used for pigs, 
etc., than soap. Use plenty of sunshine 
and an abundance of boiling water for 
all dairy utensils, always rinsing first 
with cold or lukewarm water. When 
one is required to use the shallow pan 
for setting the milk in, I find it the best 
plan to watch closely, and as the milk 
just turns a slight acid to skim; it may 
be morning, noon or night. By doing 
so a good uniform quality of butter will 
be the result. e. a. parsons. 
Kent Co., Delaware. 
AILING ANIMALS. 
Scouring Horse. 
I have a horse about eight years old that 
is troubled with a very bad habit. When 
I take him out for about a half hour’s 
trot on the road, where the road is good 
and level, if I make him trot along a little 
faster than a walk, his bowels suddenly 
become very loose. I would like to know 
if there is some remedy for this. Other¬ 
wise the horse is good, and a good worker, 
and if he is allowed to take his time and 
walk along slowly, this will not happen. 
c. N. 
If the horse has a long, weak, “washy” 
coupling, so that ho looks cut up in the 
flank like a greyhound, the trouble will 
prove incurable. Otherwise it is due to 
indigestion from overfeeding and lack of 
work, and will in time disappear if you 
cut the grain ration in half and double 
the exercise. Also see that his teeth are 
in order, and that all food is of first-class 
quality. Give drinking water before feed¬ 
ing but none of it just before driving. 
Si range to say. fhe feeding of carrots some¬ 
times proves beneficial in such cases. 
a. s. A. 
Grease. 
I have a very valuable horse seven years 
old next Spring: have owned him about 18 
months. Last Fall early a real good case 
of grease heel developed, and he was a 
source of much trouble to me. I did not 
use him at all from November until April 
following. I fed him bran and oats with 
one tablespoonful Fowler’s solution, oil cake 
meal, horse middlings, etc., three times daily, 
and as Spring came on it healed up, only 
leaving scars around ankles where bunches 
had remained for some time. Now, as 
weather comes colder, I notice the slight 
cracks are reappearing something like they 
did last Winter. Would you repeat the 
Fowler’s solution again this Winter, and 
how much per day? Since I have had the 
horse lie has been kept in cleanliness and 
his stall is perfectly dry and well bedded. 
This case of grease heel had developed, 
of course, before I got the horse, from filthy 
stables, bad treatment, etc., and now it is 
almost if not quite incurable. w. p. p. 
Maryland. 
Stop feeding grain and let the horse live 
on hay, corn fodder and roots. He should 
either be worked or abundantly exercised 
every day of the year, Winter and Summer, 
or live practically an outdoor life. This 
is the natural way of curing grease, and 
it is better than much medicine. Apply 
sulphur ointment or sulphur and oil lotion 
freely every day. It you do not care to 
give such treatment then it would be best 
to let the horse go to some dealer who 
thinks he will enjoy and profit by the treat- 
HAND POWER 
OR 
HORSE POWER 
VERSUS 
GASOLINE ENGINE 
POWER 
W HETHER you, your men or your horses do the 
farm work some sort of power is exerted. 
The businesslike, money-making farmer will 
use the cheapest power. 
Neither hand labor nor horse labor can accomplish so 
much at so little expense as an I. H. C. gasoline engine. 
These engines are reliable and efficient. They will eas¬ 
ily supply power for corn shelling, feed grinding, ensilage 
cutting, turning the fanning mill, operating the cream sep¬ 
arator, and other dairy machines—and a dozen other things 
besides. They supply adequate, untiring, inexpensive power 
for everything that man or horse can do and for many they 
cannot do. 
An I. H. C. gasoline engine installed outside the barn 
door or within the barn means a power house on the farm. 
Horse power and man power can be applied only to certain 
tasks. I. H. C. gas enginepower may beused for every other duty 
about the farm. There is an I. H. C. engine for every purpose. 
They are money makers and money savers. They lighten both 
expense and labor. They afford a short cut to success and 
prosperity. 
There is no doubt that on the average farm, an I. H. C. gaso¬ 
line engine will more than repay its first cost each year. 
The nice adaptation of these engines to all farm duties is one 
of the most excellent features They are built in .— 
Vertical, 2, 3 and 25-horse power. 
Horizontal, (Stationary and Portable) 4, 6, 8,10 12, 15 and 20-horse power. 
Traction, 10,12,15 and 20-horse power. 
Air Cooled, 1 and 2-horse power. 
Also sawing, spraying and pumping outfits. 
It will be to your interest to investigate these dependable, 
efficient engines. Call on the International local agent and get 
catalogs and particulars, or write the home office. 
International Harvester Company of America, Chicago, U.S.A. 
(Incorporated) 
Siickney Gasoline Engines 
ARE THE BEST 
) The engine With an outside igniter and 
a modern open tank cooling system. 
W e have thousands of engines in suc¬ 
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/Seven sizes, 1% to 16 H. P. 
Send for free Catalog 
land Catechism which 
tells 57 reasons why we have the best engine. 
AGENTS EVERYWHERE SELL STICKNEY ENGINES. 
Charles A.Stickney Company 
MAIN OFFICE & FACTORY ST. PAUL. MINN. "L 
THE BADGER 
Gasoline 
Engine 
is the all-service engine* 
Simple, powerful, uses little 
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All types and sizes. For all 
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what our engine would save you in time 
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the 5-year 
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Writ© today for free 
{catalogue and our 
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Engine Company 
Dept 7, 
Waterloo, Iowa. 
ment of such an abominable disorder. The 
dose of Fowler’s .solution is half an ounce, 
and it should be given night and morning. 
a. s. A. 
GASOLINE ENGINES. 
W. D. DUNNING, SYRACUSE^ Yj 
You See Leffel 
Steam Engines 
wherever you go. They are 
engines that insure service. 
You want an engine 
that insures serv¬ 
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show you why a 
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/ engine. Book free. 
^ Send now to 
.'James Leffel & Co. 
Box 219, Springfield, O. 
TRYON STANCHIONS 
SIMPLE, DURABLE AND SAFE. 
A trial order will convince you that 
we have a stanchion that combines 
the good qualities of all other makes, 
without the objectionable features 
of any of them. 
Write for booklet. 
TRYON SPECIALTY CO., 
Be Hoy - - New York. 
WILDER'S 
7 Self-Adjusting 
Steel Latch 
STANCHION—a firm, safe, 
simple stanchion; fastens 
easily and holds stock se¬ 
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and freedom standing or 
lying down. Can be open¬ 
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It’s made of hard wood, 
has no cold iron to chill 
animals in frosty weather. 
A stanchion that combines 
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Strong enough for dehorn¬ 
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Box 33, Monroe, Mich, 
EXCELSIOR SWING STANCHION 
Warranted the Best. 
30 Days Trial. 
Unlike all others. Stationary when 
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Box OO, Cuba, New York. 
WARRINER’S 
STANCHION 
CHAIN 
HANGING 
I. B. Calvin, Vice-Pres¬ 
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Send for BOOKLET. 
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— Eorestvllle, Conn. 
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