266 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
Ruralisms 
Transplanting Wild Trees.— I would 
like some information about the planting of 
beech, cedar and elm trees, for ornamental 
purposes. About what time would you 
transplant them, and how would you go 
about it with the least danger of losing 
any? There are lots of them here in the 
woods from six inches tall and upwards. 
Would you cut off some of the limbs or 
not, and would it be policy to 'eave a lot 
of earth on the roots? I have chicken, 
cow and horse manure if needed, also sandy 
loam or muck soil. N. M. N. 
Swanson, Mich. 
It is quite practicable t® move many 
kinds of wild trees from the woods, 
pastures and hedge-rows to field or 
lawn for ornamental purposes, but 
beeches and cedars arc among the more 
difficult to transplant. Seedling beeches 
are usually found in rather moist and 
shady places. The bark is thin, and 
they do not often, when naturally 
grown, have compact root systems. If 
roughly moved to dry and sunny situa¬ 
tions they usually die. If young, well- 
formed trees up to four or five feet 
high can be found growing in ordinarily 
dry soil in rather open places, where 
rocks or large tree roots do not prevent 
getting up a good ball of soil, or even 
a fair spread of bare roots, provided 
the latter are quickly covered with wet 
blankets or bagging and not exposed to 
dry air until ready to plant, fair suc¬ 
cess may be expected. Even then it is 
best to select the least arid situations 
for planting, and in case of particularly 
fine specimens to afford some shade for 
foliage and bark for the first year or 
two by erecting a rough screen of 
boards, lath or branches to the south 
and west or overhead. Sometimes a 
place can be found where moderate 
shade is given by trees or buildings for 
a few years, but which the transplanted 
tree may eventually outgrow, if it 
thrives well. Wild Red cedars are very 
tricky subjects to handle; even experi¬ 
enced nurserymen and tree movers lose 
a considerable portion of those they at¬ 
tempt to establish. As a rule seedlings 
about three feet high transplant better 
than either larger or smaller ones. Red 
cedars of the proper size may usually 
be found growing in old pastures, in 
either wet or dry soil. They should be 
dug with a ball, if the earth in which 
they grow will hold together, or the 
roots at once packed in damp straw or 
wet burlap, and never exposed until 
planted. The Red cedar is really a 
juniper, Juniperus Virginiana, while the 
common White cedar of eastern North 
America is Thuja occidentalis, a close 
relative of the Asiatic arbor vitse so 
much used for evergreen hedges. 
Neither is a true cedar in the botanical 
sense, but the popular names are so 
widely used over the country that they 
are generally accepted. White cedars 
naturally have better roots than the Red 
ones, and are more easily transplanted 
if found growing in dryish open soil. 
It is most commonly a swamp-loving 
species, but thrives well almost any¬ 
where when established. Seedlings re¬ 
moved from dense shade and very 
boggy ground, however, seldom amount 
to much. Good-sized cedars, evergreens 
of most kinds and in fact most wild 
trees may be safely moved in Winter 
by digging them up with large balls of 
frozen earth clasping the roots, and at 
once planting in large holes previously 
dug and kept free of frost by heavy 
coatings of fermenting manure, but this 
is a laborious and expensive method. 
Good success is also had with large 
specimens and also smaller ones grow¬ 
ing in loose soil by digging a trench 
about the tree the previous Spring with 
a sharp spade, and undermining one 
side, thus cutting all the large roots. 
The trench should then be compactly 
filled with good top soil, well rammed, 
down, and the tree left undisturbed for 
a year, by which time the cut root ends 
will have healed and masses of fibrous 
roots formed that greatly assist a sub¬ 
sequent removal. Some of the most 
valued wild trees on the Rural Grounds 
were thus prepared and afterwards suc¬ 
cessfully transplanted. 
Elms are not particularly difficult to 
transplant; if carefully dug any time 
when not in leaf and firmly planted, the 
roots being kept from getting dry while 
out of the ground, they should succeed. 
Deciduous or leaf-shedding trees and 
shrubs generally give little trouble when 
transplanted from woods or fields, but 
specimens should always be selected 
when possible that are growing in the 
open rather than under large trees or 
in 'dense thickets. There are a few 
besides the beech that are not very easy 
to handle. Oaks usually must be dug 
with care, getting as many small roots 
as possible, the tulip tree (Lirioden- 
dron) and sweet gum (Liquidambar) 
are also examples, but they may all be 
moved if sufficient care is taken and 
with especial chances of success if 
trenched about the previous season as 
above described. Some of the maples 
are so easily transplanted that little 
seedlings may be pulled in Spring when 
the soil is soft from the effects of 
frost, without the trouble of digging, 
and survive the rough treatment if 
promptly heeled in or planted. 
Planting the Trees. —As forest 
grown or wild trees seldom have as 
compact root systems as those culti¬ 
vated in nurseries they suffer greater 
shock in transplanting. Special care 
should be taken to have the holes for 
their reception dug generously wide 
and deep. The top soil should be placed 
on one side and the subsoil on the other. 
Eill about the roots with the good top 
soil, tramping and firming it well, so 
that no air cavities be left to hinder the 
production of feeding roots. The sub¬ 
soil may be thrown in last, and over 
that should be placed a thick mulch of 
strawy manure or other litter that will 
tend to keep the surface moist. Mulch¬ 
ing is extremely important, and will 
save many trees that would otherwise 
perish. Use no manure or fertilizing 
material in the hole or about the roots 
—it will only lessen the chances of the 
tree surviving—but good clean top soil, 
mixed, if possible, with some of the soil 
in which the tree grew. This is quite 
important with oaks, beeches, pines, 
spruces, and perhaps other kinds that 
depend to some extent for their nour¬ 
ishment on symbiosis or the action of 
friendly fungi on the rootlets.' It will 
often be of advantage to cart a quan¬ 
tity of earth in which the trees grew 
to the planting ground. Tree planters 
understand that it is quite necessary 
to trim bruised or broken roots with a 
keen-edged knife so that they may 
quickly heal, and rootlets be thrown 
out near the new-formed callus. There 
is more difference of opinion about the 
need for pruning the limbs or branches, 
but it is a safe rule smoothly to cut out 
all crowded branches and shorten some 
of the remaining ones, taking out suffi¬ 
cient wood to balance the loss of roots. 
This is not always a simple matter with 
evergreens. When good roots or a suf¬ 
ficient ball of earth can be secured they 
need little, if any, trimming. When 
planting with a ball, whether frozen or 
not, see that the ends of projecting 
roots are smoothly trimmed, and that 
they are not bent under the ball, but 
project in their natural direction. Suc¬ 
cess or failure in getting good subse¬ 
quent vigor may depend on this point 
alone. As a general rule do not plant 
deeper than the tree naturally stood. 
There is more latitude with nursery- 
grown trees, as the soil level in culti¬ 
vated nursery rows may vary from 
time to time, but with wild trees it is 
practically constant, and the roots de¬ 
velop under that condition. Seedlings 
a foot or so high, such as N. M. N. 
mentions, may often with advantage be 
grown in nursery rows a few years 
until large enough for permanent plant¬ 
ing. We have grown collected pines 
and hollies this way with much success. 
They should be set two or more feet 
apart in good soil, in sun or partial 
shade, using the same care in planting 
as with larger specimens. They may 
be either mulched or cultivated, as most 
convenient, for the first two seasons of 
their growth, but whichever plan is 
adopted it should be thoroughly carried 
out. Taken altogether the month of 
April is best for moving deciduous 
trees, but the work may be done with 
good chances of success any time when 
the leaves are off and the soil in proper 
condition. The manner is far more 
important than the time. Trees with 
frozen balls must necessarily be moved 
in severe cold weather. Evergreens, 
particularly the conifers, succeed rather 
better when transplanted in May, just 
as the young growth starts, but good 
results are had every month in the year 
if the work is carefully done. 
w. v. F. 
March 21, 
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