1908. 
287 
A TALK ABOUT ARSENIC SPRAYS. 
Various Methods of Preparation. 
White arsenic crystals, two pounds; sal soda or carbon¬ 
ate of soda, four pounds; water, one gallon; boil until 
dissolved; arsenite of soda. White arsenic, one pound; 
stone lime, two pounds; water, 2 gallons; boil 45 minutes; 
arsenite of lime. IIow much of the above arsenites would 
be equal to 10 pounds of arsenate of lead in 100 gallons 
of water? Would they be as safe to use with reference 
to burning the foliage? Would they stick to the foliage 
as well as arsenate of lead? IIow long could the above 
arsenites be kept and hold tbeir full strength? Would 
new process lime in 100-pound paper bags be safe to use 
for Bordeaux Mixture one year old? We have the 
Brown-tail moth in full force, and nothing less than 10 
pounds to 100 gallons of water of arsenate of lead proves 
effective. The advance guard of the Gypsy moth is also 
in town. The elms and oaks are full of Brown-tail 
nests, some of them having 100 or more nests all on the 
top of the tree, and at the tip end of the branches many 
of the trees are 70 or more feet high; both dangerous and 
expensive work to cut them off. One man employed the 
linemen to clear these elm shade trees at an expense of 
$30. There is a prospect of many shade trees being cut 
down within the next two years. g. b g 
Stratham. N. H. 
1 he poison base in practically all of our insecticides 
for biting insects is white arsenic. It is one of the 
cheapest forms of available poisons for spraying pur¬ 
poses. Unfortunately, however, it cannot be safely 
used on foliage until it has been combined with some 
other substance to prevent its burning. The formulas 
given by the correspondent show two methods by 
which arsenic may be combined and rendered quite 
safe. It would be entirely unsafe to use the solution 
of arsenic dissolved with sal soda. The sal soda is 
used largely for the purpose of making sure that all 
of the arsenic is dissolved. Where the arsenic is 
boiled with lime it would probably all combine in 45 
minutes, but there is no easy way of determining if 
it has. I think the safer way to make up the arsenite 
of lime is to dissolve the arsenic with the sal soda 
according to the first formula, except that if the mix¬ 
ture is to be used soon two pounds of sal soda are 
sufficient. Take this arsenite of soda solution and use 
it to slake two pounds of stone lime. In 
the slaking process, if properly done, the 
arsenic will be combined with the lime as 
effectually as though it had been boiled 45 
minutes. Many fruit-growers make the 
arsenite of soda solution and then put it 
directly into Bordeaux Mixture contain¬ 
ing a considerable excess of lime. Usually 
the combination is effected properly and no 
free arsenic remains to burn the foliage, 
but occasionally injury results, and the 
same is true where the arsenic is boiled 
with lime. I always recommend that the 
arsenite of soda solution be used for slak¬ 
ing some lime, even though it is to be used 
in connection with Bordeaux Mixture. 
White arsenic is rarely adulterated, so 
that it is usually about 98 per cent pure. 
Paris-green contains but little more than 
one-half as much arsenic, and the arsenate 
of lead pastes now on the market contain 
■ from 40 to 50 per cent of water, and are 
only a little more than one-half as strong 
in arsenic as Paris-green. In other words 
one should use about two pounds of Paris- 
green for one of white arsenic, and two 
pounds of arsenate of lead paste for 
one pound of Paris-green or four pounds of 
the paste for one pound of white arsenic. 
On this basis the correspondent should use 
about 2 l / 2 pounds of white arsenic made 
up according to either formula in order 
to have about the same amount of ar¬ 
senic as would be contained in the 10 pounds of 
arsenate of lead to be used in, 100 gallons of water. 
If the arsenite of lime is correctly made, as it can be 
by the formulas, so that there is little or no free 
arsenic in the solution, it would be safe to use it in 
place of the arsenate of lead, and it would be much 
cheaper. But there is always some risk from using 
the arsenite of lime in water; it is safer to use it with 
the Bordeaux Mixture. 
A few words in regards to the comparative cost of 
these common poisonous insecticides may be of in¬ 
terest. Estimating white arsenic at 10 cents per 
pound, Paris-green at 35 cents and arsenate of lead 
paste at 12 cents, the comparative cost of 100 gallons 
of spray containing the equivalent of 10 pounds of 
arsenate of lead would be for the white arsenic spray 
about 40 cents plus the expense of making; for the 
Paris-green spray $1.75, and for the arsenate of lead 
spray $1.20. So far as the cost is concerned, there¬ 
fore, the white arsenic spray would be much the 
cheaper, but there is always the danger of burning 
the foliage with this spray. And the same is also 
true of the Paris-green, which usually needs some 
freshly slaked lime to render it more safe. There is 
practically no danger of burning the foliage with the 
THE RURAL, NR W-YORKER 
arsenate of lead, and this poison will also stick on 
longer than either of the others. I think that one 
thorough application of the arsenate of lead spray in 
ordinary seasons would last long enough to be equal 
in effectiveness to two applications of the other sprays. 
1 he Paris-green and white arsenic sprays, however, 
kill Gypsy moth and Brown-tail moth caterpillars more 
quickly than the arsenate of lead. 
I he arsenite of lime mixture if properly made ac¬ 
cording to the formulas will hold its full strength 
indefinitely. I should hesitate to use new-process 
lime, which has been in 100-pound paper bags for one 
year, in making Bordeaux Mixture. It would be an 
easy matter to determine, however, if the lime was 
all right by using the yellow prussiate of potash test, 
which most fruit-growers use in making Bordeaux 
Mixture. If the lime had air-slaked to any extent it 
would require considerably more than the three or 
four pounds to neutralize the four pounds of copper 
sulphate. 
In regard to the Brown-tail moth caterpillars, even 
though it cost $30 to clear three elm trees of the 
Winter nests, it is cheaper, I think, than if the same 
trees were thoroughly sprayed, and the results would 
be in favor of the Winter work on the nests. Each 
of the Winter nests contain from two to three hun¬ 
dred young Brown-tail caterpillars, and I think it is 
cheaper to do a thorough job in Winter than to try to 
kill them all with a poison spray in the Spring. I 
think those who cut down large shade trees in order 
to save an expense of even $10 per tree will regret it in 
future years. Often a few shade trees double the 
value of village property. m. v. slingerland. 
NURSING A PET GRAPEVINE. 
For planting a single vine conditions are rarely as 
favorable as when a site is duly selected and pre¬ 
pared for a vineyard. However, the grape is of such 
natural vitality and vigor that it will give some re¬ 
turns even under adverse conditions of soil and loca¬ 
tion and comparative neglect; though it will amply 
repay special care and attention. Where there is choice 
of location, a well drained sandy loam is to be pre¬ 
ferred and if somewhat elevated all the better. Full 
exposure to sunshine and air is desirable. It is not 
necessary that the soil should be rich, indeed moderate 
fertility is to be preferred. If the vine is to be planted 
in the border of the garden or lawn, or any place 
not plowed and prepared for a crop, a circular space 
four or five feet in diameter should be deeply dug 
and pulverized and then thoroughly firmed by tread¬ 
ing. A hole should then be made in the centre of the 
space for the vine. If the soil is of good quality this 
need be no larger than necessary for planting, but if 
not, a larger quantity of earth should be removed 
and replaced with good loam. The hole for planting 
should be wide and not too deep. The vine should 
be set a few inches deeper than it had stood before, 
the roots spread fan-shape with the ends a little 
lower than the base of the stem; then a few inches 
of soil should be scattered over the roots and tramped 
firm. If the soil is dry a pail of water may be now 
added to advantage, and after it has soaked into the 
ground fill up with loose soil. No manure or fertilizer 
should come in contact with the roots, but after the 
vine has been planted a few handfuls of good fer¬ 
tilizer, if available, or some wood ashes and a little 
hen manure may be spread over the prepared space 
and hoed and raked in, leaving the surface loose. 
This space should either be kept cultivated during 
the season, or covered with a mulch to conserve 
moisture. After planting the vine should be cut 
back to two or three buds, only one of which should 
be allowed to grow. When the young vine attains 
a height of 10 or 12 inches it should be tied to a stake, 
as it is very tender at this stage, and is liable to be 
broken off by the wind. During the following Win¬ 
ter or early Spring the young vine should be cut back 
to two or three buds again, and one or two vines al¬ 
lowed to grow according to method of pruning in¬ 
tended. A stout stake five feet high is all the support 
required the first two years, after which a trellis is 
required. With a single plant of a valuable new 
grape it is desirable to know how to increase the 
stock. This may be done in two ways. One is to 
prune the vine in the Fall soon after the leaves are 
off, cut the prunings into lengths with two buds each, 
set at once with the upper bud just at the surface of 
the ground. Mulch to prevent heaving by frost. The 
next season most of these will strike root and make 
nice plants. Another method consists in letting more 
vines grow than are needed for fruiting, then laying 
these down and covering part of their length with 
earth, when they will usually take root. This can be 
made more certain by cutting off a small strip of 
bark on the under side before covering. 
Pennsylvania. d. l. hartman. 
GALVANIZED CABLE FOR LIGHTNING RODS. 
Which is the best material for the money, copper or 
galvanized cable wire for use as lightning rods? Agents are 
working the farmers hard for 20 cents Der foot for copper 
cable. The Michigan Agricultural College says galvanized 
is just as good. I own three farms with, buildings; it 
would cost over $300 to rod them. t c. k 
Indiana. 
Although copper is a very much better conductor 
of electrcity than iron or zinc, yet the great difference 
in price at the present time makes it advisable to use 
a galvanized cable as a material for lightning rod 
construction in preference to copper. With buildings 
properly rodded with seven-sixteenths galvanized wire 
cable they will be safe against any damage from 
lightning except from ball lightning (from 
which probably nothing will protect), but 
this kind of lightning is so very rare that 
very little damage is caused by it; in fact 
I have never known of but one case where 
buildings were damaged by ball lightning. 
I would advise that the cable be run from 
permanent damp ground, from the water in 
a well if possible, to and up over the build¬ 
ing and down the other end into damp 
ground, running along the ridge of the 
building. If the building is a house the 
cable should go to every chimney and a 
point go up above the top of chimney two 
or three feet and that the wires of cable 
be then opened and spread out in all direc¬ 
tions, pointing about 45 degrees upwards. 
If a piece of brass or copper wire a foot 
long and one-fourth inch in diameter be 
filed to a sharp point at one end and the 
other end be placed down into the cente^ 
of cable below where wires are opened and 
the wires be brought in close contact with 
it and held there by a wire about the cable 
it will add largely to the rod’s efficiency. 
If it be a barn that is to be protected 
pieces of this same cable, six or more 
feet long, should be placed at each end of the 
barn and at intervals of about 20 feet along 
the ridge, supported firmly by some upright 
and the upper ends fixed as described for the house. 
In all cases the lower end of these uprights should 
be unwound and the wires closely wound around the 
main cable, being careful to lay them in close con¬ 
tact with the cable wires. If there is a cupola or a 
spire on the barn, or more than one of them, 
the cable should go to and be connected to 
an upright cable made as formely described. 
In all cases the utmost care should be taken 
to see that all groundings of the cable should go to 
and well into moist earth or water if possible. If not 
possible to reach water a hole should be dug to moist 
earth and the wires of the cable be unwound and 
the lower end of each one connected with some large 
piece of metal. Pieces of an old copper boiler or 
kettle or parts of a broken cast-iron implement; any¬ 
thing metallic will do, and if a half bushel, more or 
less, of broken charcoal, or even mineral coal be put 
into the hole and in connection with the lower end 
it will add to the value of the rod. If a well can 
be reached all that will be necessary will be to un¬ 
wind lower end of cable and let it run down into 
the water. One very great advantage the galvanized 
cable has over the copper is it is very much stronger 
and vastly less liable to be broken and disturbed than 
the copper. The cable will not need any insulating 
from the building. On the contrary if there are eaves 
troughs or conductors on the building, by all means 
be sure to make permanent connection with them 
wherever possible. j. s. woodward. 
HARWELL APPLE, NATURAL SIZE. Fig. 124. 
See Ruralisms, page 294. 
