738 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
September 19, 
Woman and the Home 
From Day to Day. 
ODE TO AUTUMN. 
Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness; 
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun; 
Conspiring with him now to load and bless 
With fruit the vines that round the 
thatch-eaves run ; 
To bend with apples the mossed cottage' 
trees, 
And fill all fruit with ripeness to the 
core; 
To swell the gourd, and plump the hazel- 
shells, 
With a sweet kernel : to set budding more, 
And still more, later flowers for the bees, 
Until they think warm days will never 
cease; 
For Summer has o’erbrimmed their 
clammy cells. 
Who hath not seen thee oft amid thy store? 
Sometimes whoever seeks abroad may find 
Thee sifting careless on a granary floor, 
Thy hair soft-lifted by the winnowing 
wind 
Or on a half-reaped furrow sound asleep. 
Drowsed with the fume of poppies, while 
thy hook 
Spares the next swath and all its twined 
flowers; 
And sometimes like a gleaner thou dost keep 
Steady thy laden head across a brook; 
Or by a cider press, with patient look, 
Thou watcliest the last oozings, hours by 
hours. 
Where are the songs of Spring? Ay, where 
are they? 
Think not of them, thou hast thy music, 
too— 
While barred clouds bloom the soft-dying 
day, 
And touch the stubble-plains with rosy 
hue; 
Then in a wailful choir the small gnats 
mourn 
Among the river sallows, borne aloft 
Or sinking as the light wind lives or dies; 
And full-grown lambs loud bleat from hilly 
bourn; 
Hedge crickets sing, and now with treble 
soft 
The red-breast whistles from a garden croft 
And gathering swallows twitter in the 
skies. —John Keats (1 705-1821). 
* 
The Chinese wear five buttons on 
their jackets, to remind them of the 
five great moral virtues inculcated by 
Confucius: Humanity, justice, order, 
rectitude and prudence. Some of the 
6989 Four Gored Skirt, 22 to 30 waist. 
Cotuit cod is an excellent way to 
cook this fish. Wipe two slices of fresh 
cod, each weighing about one pound, 
remove the skin and bones, and cut the 
fish in eight fillets. Melt one-fourth of 
a cupful of butter, and season with salt 
and onion juice. Dip each fillet sepa- 
6101 Girl's Semi-Princesse Dress* 
8 to 14 vears. 
rately in the butter, roll, and fasten with 
a small wooden skewer (toothpick). 
Put in a shallow pan, dredge with flour, 
and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven. 
Remove the skewers, arrange the fish 
on a hot serving dish, pour around the 
sauce, and garnish with parsley. For 
the sauce cook four tablespoonfuls of 
butter with one slice of onion, two 
slices of carrot, a bit of bay leaf, sprig 
of parsley and six peppercorns two 
minutes. Add five tablespoonfuls of 
flour, and stir until well blended; then 
pour on gradually, while stirring con¬ 
stantly, one cupful of chicken stock. 
Bring to the boiling point, and strain. 
Add one cupful of milk, one half tea¬ 
spoonful of salt and one-eighth of a tea¬ 
spoonful of pepper. Again bring to the 
boiling point, and add one tablespoonful 
of butter, bit by bit. 
* 
The long tight plain sleeves now com¬ 
ing in are often finished at the wrist 
with folds of fine lawn, basted in. Some¬ 
times only one fold is used, and some¬ 
times several. This gives a pretty finish, 
while saving wear and soil. These 
from striped material as illustrated; 6J4 
yards 24, 5% yards 32 or 3*4 yards 44 
inches wide if cut from plain material, 
or with perpendicular stripes, if material 
has neither figure nor nap; if there 
should be figure or nap 5 yards 44 inches 
wide will be needed. The pattern 5989 
is cut in sizes for a 22, 24, 26, 28 and 30 
inch waist measure; price 10 cents. 
The circular skirt shown in No. 6098 
gives the long close lines now popular. 
The skirt consists of two circular por¬ 
tions. There are extensions on the front 
edges that extend to about the depth of 
the trimming indicated and which form 
the inverted plaits, but the plaits at the 
back are laid for the entire length. 
When the seams over the hips are used 
the back portion is so cut as to bring 
the straight edge at the front. The 
quantity of material required for the 
medium size is 6J4 yards 24, 5% yards 
27, four yards 44 or 3^4 yards 52 inches 
wide without seams over the hips; 5^2 
yards either 44 or 52 inches wide with 
seams over the hips, with 3 yards of 
braid to trim as illustrated. The pattern 
6098 is cut in sizes for a 22, 24, 26, 28 
and 30 inch waist measure; price 
10 cents. 
The semi-princess dress is a popular 
model for young girls. As shown it is 
simple, but is made dressy in effect by 
means of the combined bertha and panel 
which is arranged over the plain dress. 
The panel which extends from the skirt 
over the blouse to form the bertha gives 
the characteristic princess lines and can 
be finished with banding or with em¬ 
broidery. The dress is made with the 
blouse and the skirt joined by a belt. 
The blouse is tucked at the shoulders 
and the five-gored skirt is laid in back¬ 
yard turning plaits, the panel with the 
bertha is arranged over it and the en¬ 
tire dress is closed at the back. The 
quantity of material required for the 
medium size (12 years) is 8^ yards 27, 
6$4 yards 32 or 5-Hj yards 44 inches wide 
with 12^4 yards of banding to trim as 
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* 
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<stoves 
/AANGsiy 
new Fall coats are fastened with five 
buttons, and we may therefore be re¬ 
minded of the Chinese virtues every 
time we put them on. 
* 
Among Fall colors the various shades 
of reddish brown and purplish brown 
are likely to be very much worn. Wild 
plum, Concord grape, prune and cedar 
brown are all popular. We have seen 
some very handsome tailored suits in 
these colors, trimmed with braiding. 
They all had rather long coats, suggest¬ 
ing the influence of the Directoire styles, 
and either fancy vests or broad revers. 
* 
Satin is to be the fashionable silk for 
the coming Fall and Winter, one of the 
new varieties being satin Directoire, a 
very soft and supple material. Bor¬ 
dered satins are shown in some very 
beautiful combinations. Egyptian satin 
is a wool-backed material, very supple 
and light in weight. It is double width, 
and is intended for making coats and 
wraps. Satin-covered buttons are being 
much used for trimming. 
sleeves have to fit very closely at the 
wrist, and as, to fit well, they must be 
too tight for a plump hand to go 
through, they are hooked or buttoned, 
invisibly or otherwise, on the under 
side. Sometimes snap fasteners are 
usqd, which close very smoothly. A 
turn-over white cuff does not give the 
right effect with these sleeves, as made 
at present, and we shall probably see 
ruching used a good deal as a finish at 
the wrist, for the tight sleeve, without 
this relief, is usually not very becoming 
to the hand. _ 
The Rural Patterns. 
The four-gored skirt shown is a use¬ 
ful pattern for any material, but it is es¬ 
pecially stylish in a striped fabric cut 
so as to join in chevron effect at front 
and sides. The skirt is cut in four gores 
and there is consequently a seam at the 
centre front and one at the centre back. 
The fullness is laid in inverted plaits. 
The quantity of material required for 
the medium size is 9 yards 24, 5% yards 
32 or 4% yards 44 inches wide if cut 
illustrated. The pattern 6101 is cut in 
sizes for girls of 8, 19, 12 and 14 years 
of age; price 10 cents. 
DltOKEN CllACKKltS are as fresh as whole 
ones and can be bought at $2 per barrel f. o. b. 
Worcester (about 50 pounds to the barrel) from the 
factory of NEW ENGLAND BISCUIT CO.. 
Worcester, Mass., manufacturers of the famous 
♦‘Toasted Butter Crackers ,” “Little Brothers Lunch Bisoiiit,’ ( 
tc. Check or money order must accompany order. Write ua. 
Three generation* ol 
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EDdystonE 
PRINTS 
Tounded 1842 
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Silver Greys 
The time-tested old* • Simpson ” Prints 
made only in Eddystone. 
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Some designs in the new silk finish. 
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Established by Wm. Simpson, Sr. 
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