BUT 
tained, a good fervant fliould be employed to milk them ; 
as, through the neglect and mifmanagement of fervants, 
it frequently happens, that the bed cows are fpoiled. No 
farmer fliould truft. entirely to fervants, but fometimes 
fee themfelves that their cows are milked clean ; for, if 
any milk is fuffered to remain in the udder, the cow will 
daily give lefs, till at length (lie will become dry before 
the proper time, and the next feafon (he will fcarcely give 
milk fufficient to.pay for her keep. 
During the hot Cummer-months, it is right to rife with 
or before the. fun, that the cream may be fkimined from 
the milk ere the dairy becomes warm ; nor fliould the milk 
at that feafon (land longer in the vats, &c. than twenty- 
four hours, nor be (kimmed in the evening till after fun- 
fet. In winter milk may remain unfkinuned for thirty-fix 
or forty-eight hours; the cream fliould be depofited in a 
deep pan, which (hould be kept during the fummer in the 
cooled part of the dairy ; or in a cool cellar where a free 
air is admitted, which is (fill better. Where people have 
not an opportunity of churning every other day, they 
(hould fliift the cream daily into clean pans, which will keep 
it cool, but they fliould never fail to churn at lead twice 
in the week in hot weather; and this work fliould be done 
in a morning befoie the fun appears, taking care to fix the 
churn where there is a free draught of air. If a pump- 
churn be to be ufed, it may be plunged a foot deep into 
into a rub of cold water, and (hould remain there during 
the whole time of churning, which will very much harden 
the butter. A drong rancid flavour will be given to but¬ 
ter, if churned fo near the fire as to heat the wood in the 
winter feafon. After the butter is churned, it (hould be 
immediately walked in many different waters till it is per¬ 
fectly cleanfed from the milk ; but here it mud be remark¬ 
ed, that a Warm hand will foften it, and make it appear 
greafy, fo that it will be inipoflible to obtain the bed price 
for it. The cheefemongers ale two pieces of wood for 
their butter ; and, if thofe who have a very hot hand were 
to have fitch, they might work the butter to more advan¬ 
tage. The Epping butter is made up for market in long 
rolls, weighing a pound each ; in the county of Somerfet 
they difii it in half-pounds for (ale ; but, if they forger to 
rub (alt round the inlide of the did), it will be difficult to 
Work it fo as to make it appear handforne. 
Thofe who ufe a pump-churn mud endeavour to keep a 
regular droke ; nor (hould they admit any perfon to aflid 
them, except they keep nearly the fame (treke : for, if 
they, churn more (lowly, the butter will in the winter go' 
bock , as it is called ; and, if the ftroke be more quick and 
violent in the fummer, it wall caufe a fermentation, by 
which means the butter will imbibe a very dilagreeable 
flavour. Where people keep many cows, a barrel churn 
is to be ip referred ; but, if this be not kept very clean, the 
bad etfcCls will foon be difeovered in the butter. In ma¬ 
ny parts of this kingdom they colour their butter in win¬ 
ter, but tills adds nothing to its goodnefs ; and it rarely 
happens that the fanners in or near Epping ufe any colour, 
but, when til\ey do, it is very innocent. They procure 
fome found carrots, whole juice they exprefs through a 
fieve, and mix with the cream when it enters the churn, 
which makes it appear like May butter; nor do they at 
any time ufe much fait, though a little is abfolutely ne- 
ce'lfary. As they make in that county but very little 
cheefe, .fo of courfe very little whey-butter is made ; nor 
indeed fliould any perfon make it, except for prefent ufe, 
as it will not keep good more than two days ; and the whey 
will turn to better account to Fatten pigs. Nothing im¬ 
proves thefe falter, nor will any thing make them lb deli¬ 
cately white. At the fame time it is to be obferved, that 
no good bacon can be made from pigs thus fatted ; v\ here 
much butter is made, good chee fe for fervants .may be 
obtained from [kimmed milk, and the .whey will afterwards 
do for flore-pigs. 
The foregoing rules will fuflice for making good butter 
in any county.; but, as fome people are partial to the weft- 
country method, it (flail be deferibed as briefly as poflible. 
In the firft place, they depofit tlieir milk in earthen pans 
in their dairy-houfe, and (after they have flood twelve 
hours in the fummer, and double that fpace in the winter) 
they remove them to ltoves made for that purpofe, which 
(loves are filled with hot embers ; on tliefe they remain till 
bubbles rife, and the cream changes its colour; it is then 
deemed heated enough, and this tiiey call (calded cream; 
it is afterwards removed fteadily to the dairy, where it re¬ 
mains twelve hours more, and is then (kimmed from the 
milk and put into the churn. The Cambridg.efliire fait 
butter is held in very high efleem, and is made nearly after 
the fame method as the Epping; and by vv a filing and 
working the fait from it the cheefemongers in London of¬ 
ten fell it at a high price for frdb butter. They depofit it 
v' hen made into wooden tubs or firkins, which they expofe 
to.tlie air for two or three weeks, and often wafh them; 
but a readier way is to feafon them with unflaked lime, or 
a large quantity of fait and water well boiled; with this 
they im:ft be (drubbed fcveral times, and afterwards thrown 
into cold water, where they fliould remain three or four 
days, or till they are wanted ; then they fliould be ferub- 
bed as before, and well rinfed with cold water; but, be¬ 
fore they receive the butter, care nuifl be taken to rub 
every part of the firkin with (alt: then if the butter be 
properly made, and perfedlly fvveet, it may be gently 
prelfed into the firkin ; b,ut it inr.lt be well faked when it 
is made up, and the fait fliould be equally diftributed 
through the whole mafsj.'and a good, handful of fa.lt mnft 
be fpread on the top of the firkin before it is heated, atter 
which the head (hould be immediately put on. They pur- 
fue nearly the fame method in Suffolk and York (hire ; nor 
is the butter that is made in tliefe counties inferior to that 
made in Cambridgefhire; indeed it is often fold in London 
for Cambridge butter: and no people make more butter 
from their cows than the Yorklhire farmers do, which is 
certainly owing to the care they take of tlieir cattle in the' 
.winter; as at that feafon they ho.ufe them all, feed them 
with good hay, and never fuffer them to go out (except 
to water) but when the weather is very ferene ; and, when 
their cows calve, they give them comfortable malt meflies 
for two or three days after; but tliefe cows never anlwer 
if they are removed to other counties,, except the fame 
care and attendance be given them, and then none an.fwer 
better. 
Land whereon cows feed will very often affect the but¬ 
ter. If wild garlic, charlock, .or May-weed, be found in 
a pafture-ground, cows fliould not feed therein till alter 
they have been mown, w hen,;fifch. pernicious plants will 
appear no more till the following fpring; but thofe cows 
that give milk mull not partake of tlie hay made there¬ 
from, as that will a!fo ditfufe its bad qualities. .Great 
part of the Epping butter is made from cows that feed 
during tlie -fummer-months in Epping foreft, where the 
leaves and fhrubby plants contribute greatly to the flavour 
of the butter. The mountains of Wales, the highlands 
of Scotland, and the moots, commons, and heaths, in 
England, produce excellent butter where it is properly 
managed .;, and, though not equal in quantity, yet is often 
fupericr in quality, to that which is produced from the 
richeft meadows; and the land is often blamed, when the- 
butter is bad through .mifmanagement, fluttifhnefs, or in¬ 
attention. Turnips and rape affect milk and butter, but 
brewers’ grains are fvveet and wholefome food, and will 
make cows give abundance of milk ; yet the cream there¬ 
on will be thin, except good hay be given at the lame- 
time, after every meal of grains. Coleworts and cabba¬ 
ges are.alfo excellent food ; and, if tliefe and fav-oys were 
cultivated for this purpofe, the farmers in general would 
find their account in it. 
The baron d’Alren remarks, that milch-cows are infi¬ 
nitely more profitably, kept in the hpufe than out of doors, 
btr they muff be early trained to it,.otherwise they do not 
thrive. The beft kinds of food for them tire clover,. lu¬ 
cerne, potatoes, yarns, turnips,carrots, cabbages, peafe, and 
beans. Such cows as thofe in the neighbourhood of Lon¬ 
don,, 
