1911 . 
THE RURAL NEW-VORKER 
42© 
CEMENT FOR BRACING POSTS. 
On page 186 is an article on non¬ 
twisting fence post. I tried a way that 
I think is much better than the method 
described by Mr. Kinsley. In my case 
I use for end or gate posts good locust 
posts nine feet long, not less than six or 
seven inches through at top; they should 
be seasoned and the bark removed. I 
dig hole i ]/2 feet deep, 18 to 24 inches 
square, set post in center of hole and 
stay it with lath so that it cannot get out 
of plumb; fill up the hole with concrete 
well tamped, and then let stand three or 
four weeks before stretching fence. If 
done in this way you will need no brace. 
The concrete will hold the post securely 
and straight. This method is especially 
to be recommended for fencing a garden 
or lawn, as it makes a much neater job 
than when braces are used. It also looks 
to me as if a post should last longer 
when set in cement. 
Ohio. JOHN c. HOFFMAN. 
MOTORS AND FRUITS. 
Tig. 145 shows how motors are made 
useful in handling small fruits. This 
is E. C. Gillette, secretary of the New 
York State Fruit Growers’ Association, 
on his own fruit farm in Yates Co. 
The car here shown has traveled several 
thousand miles over the State. It will 
take a party off to a convention or to 
visit some farm, eating up the miles as 
moth is bad add two pounds arsenate 
of lead to 50 gallons of mixture. Thq 
mixture will have enough better fungi¬ 
cidal value to pay cost of arsenate of 
lead. Spray again when blossoms are 
about all off, and be sure to get over 
them before the calyx closes for best 
results. Use for this application one 
gallon of concentrate lime-sulphur to 40 
gallons of water, and three pounds of 
arsenate of. lead to each 50 gallons of 
mixture. Keep all mixture well agi¬ 
tated. Make first application most thor¬ 
oughly from below, and second applica¬ 
tion mostly from above. Examine 
blossoms often to see that you are get¬ 
ting the mixture on a good percentage 
of the blossom lobes. If so these spray¬ 
ings should be enough for good fruit. 
As to the cherry tree, there is no 
doubt spraying would help it, and yet 
one should know what ails the tree be¬ 
fore saying what to use. However, the 
first spraying recommended for the 
apples will do it good, no matter what 
the trouble is. Then if R. H. T. will 
say what the trouble is I will be glad to 
advise him. w. H. 
Shall We Harrow in Lime ? 
8. S . C., Hardwick, Vt .—You have said 
so much about the use of lime that I have 
decided to try it for myself. I have bought 
a quantity of hydrated’ lime to be used 
this Spring at the rate of one ton to the 
acre. I intended to spread it on the fur¬ 
rows (land was plowed last Fall) just as 
A MOTOR CAR IN THE FRUIT BUSINESS. Fig. 145. 
if it enjoyed the diet. It can carry a 
bunch of trays or boxes of fruit as 
shown in the picture faster than a horse 
could travel—leaving the horse for farm 
work. This is but one of hundred of 
such cars now working as horse and 
hired man for fruit growers. They are 
put to all sorts of uses, and have become 
a regular part of the farm equipment in 
many fruit sections of New York. 
Spray the Apple Trees. 
R. II. T., Conneaut, O .—I have a small 
orchard of about 15 to 20 year-old apple 
trees, Baldwins and R. I. Greenings. They 
bear pretty well but last Fall every apple 
I picked had a worm hole in it, and out 
of 15 bushels put in cellar I think I have 
left one peck, having carried out all the 
rest on account of rot. Would you tell me 
when I ought to spray, how many times 
and whether lime-sulphur or something 
else? I am trimming them up this Winter 
and hope to have at least enough for my 
own use. I have an old giant of a black 
cherry tree; would spraying benefit it? It 
Is the only one on the farm, and they are 
very hard to start in this country. 
Ans.«— In regard to the apple trees, it 
may be possible there is some scab or 
rot or fungus on the trees that causes 
the fruit to rot so badly. In any event 
a good spraying with a fungicide will 
add to the health of the trees, and any¬ 
thing that adds to the health of the 
trees makes the fruit hang better and 
keep very much better. So for best re¬ 
sults I would give these trees a good 
application of lime-sulphur, used at the 
rate of one gallon of concentrate, test¬ 
ing 33° B., to 8 t /2 gallons of water, when 
buds begin to show quite green. If bud- 
soon as the snow goes, but I ami told that 
it should not be spread until it can be har¬ 
rowed in at once. Will it really make any 
particular difference if I go ahead and 
spread it as I have planned? My reason 
for this plan is that it will save time dur¬ 
ing the busy season, and also to avoid the 
high winds that prevail later in the season. 
Also, I thought that by the earlier spread¬ 
ing the crop next Summer might get more 
benefit from it than if it was not spread 
until planting time. 
Ans. —We believe it does make a dif¬ 
ference whether the lime is plowed un¬ 
der or thoroughly worked in. The ob¬ 
ject is to incorporate the lime evenly 
through the soil. An acre of soil one 
foot deep weighs about 1800 tons. If 
you use a ton of lime you will see 
that there must be a' very thorough 
mixture in order to reach all parts of 
the soil. We believe that where lime is 
put on the unplowed surface or plowed 
under that much of it remains in one 
place forming a sort of mortar in the 
soil. Some months ago mention was 
made of this and we repeat what was 
said: 
Prof. F. V. Coville has been conducting 
some remarkable experiments in blueberry 
culture which show up this point. The 
blueberry thrives in an acid soil, and is 
built especially for growing where the soil 
is sour. Whenever lime is used so as to 
sweeten the soil the blueberry fails. In one 
case blueberry plants were started in pots 
and watered for seven months with nothing 
but lime water. It was figured that the 
equivalent of nearly 25 tons of lime to the 
acre was put into this soil, and yet these 
acid plants kept on growing. An examina¬ 
tion showed that practically all this great 
amount of lime had been left in the upper 
few inches of soil. It had not penetrated 
Into the lower part of the pot. but had 
formed a sort of shell at the top. under 
which the soil was still sour, so that the 
blueberries grew in it. 
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ORCHARD CULTIVATOR 
THE FORKDIER LIGHT DRAFT HARROW 
is the only perfect light running wheel cultivator 
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boy can operate it and cultivate perfectly 30 acres 
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two teams with ordinary harrows. Works well 
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loose grass, roots, etc. Its extension of II ft., 
3*2 ft. each side of the team, enables perfect dust 
mulching near the tree trunks without disturb¬ 
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of the hoe. One machine will work 100 acres of 
orchard and keep it in garden tilth. These ma¬ 
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cultivating expenses one-half, even if you have 
but live or ten acres of orchard. Full particu¬ 
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LIGHT DRAFT HARROW COMPANY, Marshalltown, Iowa 
MODERN GARDENING 
Send for 
76th 
Anniversary 
Catalog 
FREB 
'Our No. 1 Wheel Hoe provides a way to 
plow, furrow, cultivate and weed your garden^ 
without taking valuable time from other work. < 
With this tool a boy can take care of a big ' 
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mm 
Farm and 
Garden Tools I 
75 
YEAR: 
BUSIN 
"Why try to got along the old way when J 
1 ou can buy these light, durable,, 
landy tools ? Writo for Anniversary^ 
Catalog showing entire line, in¬ 
cluding potato machinery, etc. ' 
BATEMAN M’F’G CO. 
Box 1021 No - 1 
Qrniloob,X. 1. ^w & Double I 
or 8inglo J 
Wheel Hoe 1 
FUMA 
itpiiii a ”v kills Prairie Dogs, 
“ m m Woodchucks, Gophers, 
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“The wheels of the gods 
grind slow but exceed¬ 
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£ with “ Fuma Carbon Bisulphide are doiDg. 
EUWAKU R. TAYLOR, Penn Yan, N. Y. 
Use a HERCULES 
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400 % And the 
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130 17th Street, Centerville, Iowa 
TRA0E MARK REGISTERED IN U. S. PATENT- OFTICE. 
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