460 
THE RURAL, NEW-YORKER 
April 1, 
The Henyard. 
CEMENT FLOOR FOR HENHOUSE. 
I am on the point of building one of Mr. 
Mapes’s henhouses, but think I will make 
the roof gambrel, thus giving more head 
room. I am in doubt about a cement floor. 
I know the general thought is that for 
humans to stand on cement all day will 
cause rheumatism. Don’t you think it might 
cause trouble with hens, cement being such 
cold stuff? There must be plenty of peo¬ 
ple who have used it in henhouses and 
would know. f. m. c. 
Rheumatism is a blood disease and is 
generally thought to be brought about 
by dampness. But it is location and not 
material that causes dampness and 
rheumatism. A cement floor, if properly 
made, is not damp. We first pave the 
floor like a Telford roadbed and spread 
cracked stone or coarse gravel over the 
top to fill chinks and prevent cement 
running down; then we spread a layer 
of cement over it and we have a floor 
perfectly drained, easy to clean, rat 
proof, and the driest floor we know of. 
Of course, no one should ever allow a 
hen to stand on any kind of a' bare floor, 
and with four or five inches of good 
litter only the rats can tell whether the 
floor is cement or something else. 
F. Q. WHITE. 
BRONZE TURKEYS. 
There will be a fresh demand for 
eggs and stock of turkeys this year. In 
the section where the 17-year locusts 
are expected turkeys will have a feast, 
as they are particularly fond of this in¬ 
sect. On many farms turkey raising has 
become almost a lost art, but in spite 
of “blackhead” and other diseases, 
farmers are disposed to try this fowl 
A BRONZE TURKEY. Fig. 151. 
once more. The Bronze is the favorite 
breed with most farmers, though we 
like the White Hollands. The Bronze 
birds are large and beautiful, and great 
foragers. The picture of a good Bronze 
is shown at Fig. 151. Let no one try 
turkey raising expecting that the little 
ones are easy to raise. It is a job to 
get them through the dangerous period. 
But it is great satisfaction to have a 
good flock on the farm. 
Clipping Hens’ Wings 
Will it harm in any way the parent or 
the offspring if we should cut out wing off 
the Leghorn fowls to prevent them from 
flying over the fence? Maybe some of your 
readers have had any experience with this. 
Plainfield, N. J. s> A - 
This refers to the flight feathers and 
is done frequently to prevent the hens 
from flying out when they are kept m 
small runs. Where the roosts are low, 
or have an incline, so the liens can get 
to their nests and perches easily, there is 
no harm done by clipping the flight 
feathers of one wing. 1 his must not be 
done to the male, however, nor is it 
necessary, as the male will stay quietl} 
with the hens. floyd q. white. 
Lice and Sitting Hens. 
Chicks hatched in an incubator are free 
from lice—one of the great advantages of 
artificial hatching over the natural method 
with the hen. Chicks that are lousy do 
not thrive; when they become badly infested 
with these pests they are very likely to 
die. Lice are probably responsible lor more 
deaths among newly-hatched chicks than 
any other cause for mortality. It is neeei 
wise to use a hen for hatching without 
subjecting her to a thorough treatment to 
get rid of any lice that she may have upon 
her body, no matter how careful we may be 
with our fowls or how firmly we may believe 
them to be entirely free from vermin. A 
clean nest to begin with, well sprayed with 
a good lice killer; before the hen is set 
upon the eggs she should be well dusted 
with a good insect powder. If she has lice 
upon her the powder will kill them, but 
it will not affect the eggs of lice—the nits— 
and these may be expected to hatch out a 
new crop of lice in the course of live or six 
days, so it is necessary to repeat the dusting 
about this time. Now, if a third dusting 
is used three or four days before the hatch¬ 
ing time, to catch possible stragglers that 
might have escaped the previous applica¬ 
tions we may look forward with confidence 
to a hatch that will be as free from vermin 
as if the chicks had been hatched in an 
incubator. But few sitting hens ever get 
that amount of attention. w. r. f. 
Bordeaux Mixture and Hens. 
I have rye under our fruit trees which 
the hens eat freely. If I spray with Bor¬ 
deaux mixture, will it poison the liens? 
E. w. R. 
Bordeaux alone will not be likely to hurt 
the hens, with arsenic added it might do so. 
Complete Henyard Fertilizer. 
I would like to use a mixture of floats, 
gypsum and fine sifted coal ashes on my 
droppings boards, in quantity and propor¬ 
tions to come as close as possible to a 
complete fertilizer, for general farm and 
garden crops, requiring only the addition 
of some potash. l. c. w. 
We see no reason for adding the gypsum 
or land plaster. The “floats’’ and sifted 
coal ashes will dry out the manure so it 
will keep. Acid phosphate will be better 
than the gypsum for holding the ammonia, 
and also furnish some available phosphoric 
acid, which you will need in the garden. 
Try one-third acid phosphate and two- 
thirds floats with the coal ashes. Kaimt 
is used by some poultrymen in storing the 
droppings. It keeps the manure and fur¬ 
nishes potash. 
The Nest Egg Fallacy. 
After many years’ experience with hens, 
I have come to the conclusion that the 
nest egg must go, along with some other 
mvths. There is no such thing as coaxing 
a hen to lay; she does it like she breathes, 
because she cannot do otherwise, provided 
the conditions for egg producing are right. 
There is no chance about it. If you keep 
your hens in comfortable quarters, so that 
their vitality is not all spent in keeping 
warm, in Winter, and give them the proper 
egg-producing food, they simply can't help 
laying. A warm feed of table scraps in 
the morning and corn or other grain food 
before roosting time, plenty of fresh, clean 
water to drink, and gravel to scratch in, 
along with all green scraps from the table, 
cabbage leaves, celery tops and whatever 
is commonly thrown in the garbage, will 
encourage the egg yield wonderfully. 
Indiana. m. r. b. 
Hex Lice. —To rid a building of hen 
lice, mites, etc., (page 294), don t tear it 
to pieces, nor undertake a nasty spraying 
job. Simply get some carbolineum avena- 
rius. It is inexpensive, and a gallon will 
last the average poultry keeper for years. 
Paint well the roosts with it and wherever 
these come in contact with supports or 
sides of buildings; apply to every crack, 
and also to joints in nest boxes. It marks 
a dead line for vermin. Red mites will 
disappear as if by magic. Its effects are 
lasting. gori & son. 
Corn Fodder for Litter. —Noting article 
on page 340 on shavings for litter, would 
like to give my experience. We have used 
corn fodder cut fine with a “Tornado cutter 
for several years as litter in the scratching 
pens with good results. The fowls appreci¬ 
ate it as much as they do their grain ra¬ 
tion, and consume much of it; it absorbs 
all moisture, and when removed from pens 
can be used as mulch. We find that by 
giving a bushel in each pen frequently it 
supplies a roughage that the fowls cannot 
get from any other litter. Fowls eat greed- 
ilv all particles of leaves and small pieces 
of pith, yet eggs are not “pithy.” e. r. f. 
Pennsylvania. 
Wet Grains in Storage. —On page 333 
.T S. D. asked if you could store wet brew¬ 
ery grains by car lots. I have stored car 
lots in pits with a good cover, well packed, 
and over every layer of grain sprinkled 
some salt. Be sure to have it well packed 
and covered up; it will keep for months. 
You don’t have to go to the expense to 
built a silo for that purpose. I wish I 
could get hold of car lots of grains in 
mv section where I live. H. k. 
'Whitney’s Point, N. Y. 
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