mi. 
687 
THR RURAb NEW-YORKER 
SHADE TREES FOR CONNECTICUT. 
Wliat is the best tree to plant along the 
highway ? I have a mile of cleared pasture 
land bordering on the road. Land stony 
and well drained. I want a row of orna¬ 
mental trees, one with bee nasture in the 
bloom. Will Catalpa fill the bill? m. 
In all cases we would advocate the maple. 
It is the hardiest in every way, and would 
certainly beautify the road much more than 
any other tree. Stephen hoyt’s sons go. 
Connecticut. 
I place first above all others the bass¬ 
wood or linden. This would probably do 
well in the location described; trees not 
so cheap as others, but always handsome, 
and the flowers, not showy, but very frag¬ 
rant and very valuable for bees. The 
Catalpa might do, but foliage comes very 
late and falls very early, and the trees are 
very stiff in general outline. Either Red 
or Silver maple would do. The tulip tree 
or white wood and horse chestnut are hand¬ 
some trees, but not valuable for bees. I 
may say for the linden that either the 
European or American can be used, but the 
first holds its form better when old. Any 
of the above would do well in locality 
named. prof. a. g. gulley. 
Connecticut College. 
Though the Catalpa grows in Connecti¬ 
cut and is mentioned as a honey-producing 
plant, it is not a very important one, and 
the trees are rather scrawny as they grow 
old. If this inquirer wishes the best tree 
that he can find as a honey producer, it 
would be without question the basswood or 
linden. This is also an attractive shade 
tree. Other trees which are of some use 
as honey producers are the black locust and 
honey locust, and the tulip tree. Then, 
too, all the different kinds of maples and 
willows are of considerable value for early 
brood rearing. Personally, I should regard 
the maples as better shade trees than any 
of the others, followed perhaps by the lin¬ 
dens, and any of those which I have men¬ 
tioned I should prefer to tfie Catalpa. 
• W. E. BRITTON. 
Connecticut State Entomologist. 
If you would be contented with a row of 
trees ornamental, while the bloom fur¬ 
nishes some food for bees, the Catalpa 
would seem to be the thing. The tree has 
not been planted extensively enough around 
here to rank very high as a honey bearer. 
We are waiting for somebody to plant a 
grove, and then a favorable report is ex¬ 
pected, for the bees just love the tree. 
The hardy catalpa only (Catalpa speciosa) 
is recommended for these parts. It needs 
good soil. Just before Arbor Day, in April, 
a dry-goods firm here gave out 25,000 Catal¬ 
pa trees to the children of Hartford and 
vicinity, and one of the good points of the 
tree especially emphasized was its honey- 
yielding property. At Clinton, Conn., a 
lady set out quite a number of Catalpa 
trees some years ago, purchasing them sim¬ 
ply for shade and ornamental purposes. As 
I was very much interested in them as 
“bee-keepers’ trees,’' I inquired what the 
objections to them were, and was quite 
pleased to hear only praise. At New Haven, 
Conn., the street department objected to 
the planting of Catalpa trees near side¬ 
walks, it being claimed that the latter 
would be slippery at times. That objection 
could hardly be raised in the country, how¬ 
ever, and the tree would seem to be a suit¬ 
able one there. The European basswood, or 
linden, is a great honey-berfrer, and much 
used in England as an avenue tree. 
,TAS. A. SMITH. 
Conn. Bee-Keepers’ Association. 
SHORT STORIES. 
Mussel Shell Waste. 
There is located near me a factory for 
cutting button blanks from mussel shells. 
They have a large quantity of scrap shells 
on hand. I would like to know how this 
shell waste compares with mineral lime in 
value for use on land? Should it bo burned 
or finely ground, or would coarsely crushed 
like chicken feed do? Does this material 
contain any appreciable amount of nitrogen 
or phosphoric acid? H. k. g. 
Newport, O. 
These shells contain about 50 per cent, of 
lime, with little or no nitrogen. They can 
be burned for best results. The coarse grit 
will have a slow effect on the soil. 
How to Start Alfalfa. 
I have a piece of land on which potatoes 
were grown last year. After the potatoes 
were dug the land was given a coat of ma¬ 
nure, plowed, limed and sowed to rye. I 
wish to seed this land with Alfalfa. IIow 
shall I proceed next? Shall I plow the 
rye under in May and sow the Alfalfa at 
that time, or shall I let the rye grow to 
maturity and after harvesting it plow un¬ 
der another coat of manure and sow the 
Alfalfa, say some time in August? The 
land is good loamy soil. g. o. t. 
White Plains, N. Y. 
We should plow the rye under early in 
May and then sow Canada field peas. Let 
these grow until the middle of July, then 
plow them under and run a ton of lime 
per acre on the furrows. Then give thor¬ 
ough harrowing until early August, and 
seed the Alfalfa if possible just about the 
time of a light rain. The object of this 
plan is to get as much organic matter as 
possible into the soil. The lime will pre 
vent souring, which might occur when a 
crop like peas is plowed under in hot 
weather. 
Lime on Potatoes. 
Would it be all right to give a thin coat 
of lime over the top of newly planted po 
tatoes? The ground has had no lime for 
years, and soon after it is planted it gets 
very hard to cultivate. I have boon plant 
ing potatoes on it; this is the third year 
Will the lime cause the scab or not? How 
would 20 bushels of lime to acre do? 
Emmettsbursr. Md. o. p. s. 
No, it would not be “all right”—more 
likely “all wrong” to put lime on the potato 
field. It will increase the scab. The lime 
would have some effect in loosening up the 
soil and prevent its baking, but a better 
way to help that trouble would be to sow 
a cover crop of clover and turnips or vetch 
and rye after the potatoes. Let such a 
crop grow through the Fall and Winter and 
plow it under in Spring; adding organic 
matter in this way will open the soil and 
improve its character. 
‘A Big Corn Crop. 
I have a piece of laud on which I wish to 
raise a crop of corn. It is quite poor land, 
with a light soil and light sod, and pre 
sume contains very little humus, and it 
will not produce much without manure or 
fertilizer. As I do not have the manure to 
put on it, can I raise anything like 100 
bushels shelled corn per acre by the use of 
fertilizers, and how should I proceed to ob¬ 
tain best results? c. o. t. 
White Plains, N. Y. 
It is doubtful if you can raise 100 bush¬ 
els of shelled corn on such land the first 
year. You read reports of great yields, but 
as a rule they are produced on very good 
soil and in a regular rotation which fitted 
the land for the corn crop. You can try it 
anyway. Get seed of the best local variety 
you can find. Test seed before planting and 
make sure it is strong and will sprout well. 
Use 1,000 pounds per acre of a good corn 
fertilizer—600 pounds broadcast and har¬ 
rowed in before planting, and 400 scattered 
along the rows wheu the corn is about four 
inches high. Plant the corn in hills and 
give the best of cultivation both ways. 
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ROOFING 
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