19] 1. 
TTHfcO RURAb NEW-YORKER 
857 
BOXES FOR EASTERN APPLES. 
Within recent years decided improve¬ 
ments have been made in Eastern meth¬ 
ods of handling the commercial apple 
orchard and its products. The result 
has been large quantities of choice 
fruit, as well fitted for box packing as 
that grown in the West. The pictures 
shown at Figs. 337, 338, 339 and 340 
are reproduced from Cornell Bulletin 
298, which describes the best methods 
HANDY PACKING TABLE. Fig. 337. 
of packing apples in boxes. The stand¬ 
ard box is lOj^xl 1 ^ 2 x 18 inches inside 
measurement. Another size conforming 
to the standard package bill that has 
been before Congress for two years is 
lO'/jxlV/ixWyZ, containing 2,342 cubic 
inches. 
A handy packing table is shown at 
Fig. 337. The table bed is 3x4 feet, 
covered with a double layer of canvas, 
DIAGONAL PACK. Fig. 33s. 
the top layer being fastened at one end 
only, so that the packer can lift it and 
shake off any dirt or leaves. The 
method of placing box is shown. The 
apples are usually graded before pack¬ 
ing. Until the operator gets experience, 
a grading board is used. Beginning 
with the smallest size the holes in this 
grading board are: 2y$ inches diameter 
for live-tier pack; 2 j^ for 4 j/Ctier; 27g 
OFFSET AND SQUARE PACK. Fig. 339. 
for three-tier pack. Two kinds of pack 
are used, the diagonal end straight. 
Fig. 338 shows two boxes of diagonal 
pack, what are known as 3]/ 2 and 402 - 
tier. At the right of Fig. 339 is the 
square pack, and at left what is called 
the offset. The apples shown in the 
cuts are all wrapped. This is consid¬ 
ered the better plan, although some 
growers think it does not pay. The 
paper for apples of ordinary size is 8x10 
inches. 
An essential in box packing is that 
the center shall be raised enough so 
that when the thin cover is put on there 
shall be a bulge, as shown in Fig. 340. 
To get this bulge large apples are used, 
or the apples are placed the way they 
will occupy the most up and down 
space. 
Some varieties suggested for box 
packing when well grown and fair are: 
Spitzenburg, Spy, King, Newtown, Mc¬ 
Intosh and Jonathan. 
The Curse of White Grubs. 
We planted out about 1,500 strawberry 
plants this Spring. They were doing finely. 
About half of them are destroyed now by 
what is called the white grub. The worm 
eats the roots off. then the plant withers 
and dies. We are digging up the withered 
plants and find at the root from one to five 
worms; we have killed over 100 already, 
and there are plenty more. Has anyone 
had like experience, and is there a cure or 
prevention? H. e. m. 
Salem, Ohio. 
Thousands have had “like experience." 
It is one of the most discouraging things 
in strawberry culture to see the line plants 
wither away in August. The white grubs 
work at the roots, and usually you cannot 
tell they are present until the plants be¬ 
gin to die. There is no prevention except 
digging up the plants, killing the grubs 
and replanting. Thorough culture will de¬ 
stroy the eggs and the young grubs, but the 
old ones are hard to get at. The life his¬ 
tory of the insect covers three or four 
years, and the only safe way is to avoid 
setting strawberries ou soil liable to con¬ 
tain the insects. They are usually found in 
old meadows or pastures. When these are 
plowed up the grubs appear in the soil for 
two years or more. Thorough culture and 
hoeing during late Summer will kill off the 
new crop, but the best treatment is to plow 
the sod in late Summer and turn a drove 
of lively young hogs into the field. We have 
known such hogs to dig more than two 
feet into the soil after these insects. There 
is no practical remedy when the grubs are 
working on strawberry plants, except baud 
digging and picking. 
White Grubs and Alfalfa. 
Last week I plowed up a small piece of 
Alfalfa that had been getting thinner for 
four or live years, and was none too thick 
at the start, though the growth and yield 
per plant were as good as I could ask for. 
I found great numbers of white grubs of all 
sizes, and suspect they may have had some¬ 
thing to do with the thinning out. Is this 
likely, and are they likely to' attack the 
next crop of Alfalfa which I propose to 
put in? I am liming the land, but I don't 
expect it to hurt those grubs much. Is it 
at all likely that this is the reason that 
Alfalfa gives place to the grasses after the 
first year, as it often does about here? 
Westchester Co.. N. Y. k. x. b. 
We think the white grubs are partly re¬ 
sponsible for the poor showing of the Al¬ 
falfa. We have known them to ruin clover 
and Timothy meadows. We should not 
reseed to Alfalfa at once. Better run some 
hilled crop which can be well cultivated 
both ways. This will largely destroy the 
grubs. 
Pasture Field, and Next Year’s Garden. 
I have a field of heavy sod which has 
Deen used for pasturage. Would it be ad¬ 
vantageous to plow under this Fall or broad¬ 
cast with manure and plow under in Spring? 
I intend' to use this field for vegetables next 
season, and want it in good condition for 
planting. J. u. u. 
Old pasture lands are usually rich, and if 
limed and well fitted make good garden soil. 
The trouble is that these pastures are full 
of weeds aud old grass. This make a nui¬ 
sance in garden culture and you should kill 
out all you can of this foul stuff this Fall. 
Handle this sod about as suggested for the 
"Clark grass" on page 783. Plow and tear 
up with spring-tooth or Cutaway during 
the late Summer and Fall and harrow in 
the manure. 
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