JLtTX X ■ 
KuKAb NEW -YORKER 
897 
INSECT ENEMIES OF THE APPLE TREE. 
Among the enemies of the apple tree 
with which the orchardist has to con¬ 
tend there are four worms which are 
quite common; the tent caterpillar, the 
canker-worm, the Fall web-worm, and 
the apple tree-borer. The three first 
mentioned may all be successfully com¬ 
bated by spraying, since they all at¬ 
tack and subsist in the larval state on 
the foliage. But it is not every farmer 
with more or less trees -who is equipped 
with spraying machinery, and other 
means have to be resorted to or none 
at all. The tent caterpillar, which is 
perhaps the most common and conse¬ 
quently the most destructive of the 
three, lays its eggs in the Summer— 
July and August—around the smaller 
twigs, in quite large numbers. These 
clusters of eggs are about one inch or 
more in length, extend clear around the 
twig, and look as though they had 
been incorporated in a ass of glue 
and thoroughly coated over with the 
same substance, which has a dark, 
gluish looking appearance. A cut of 
one just taken from a tree is shown 
in Fig. 360. 
After the leaves have fallen in 
HOME OF TENT CATERPILLAR. Fig. 360 
Autumn these clusters of eggs may 
easily be detected on young trees at any 
time throughout the Fall, Winter and 
Spring, and cut off and destroyed. If 
these eggs have not been discovered 
and dealt with they will hatch out 
the following Spring at about the time 
when the buds open and the first leaves 
begin to push forward. The young 
are very small when first hatched, and 
would be unnoticed by the casual ob¬ 
server until they begin to weave their 
web, or build their tent, as it is more 
commonly called. This is done down 
the limb in some convenient crotch— 
the tent being very small at first, but 
growing larger very rapidly. At any 
time after hatching they may be 
sprayed effectively with any of the poi¬ 
sons used for the purpose; Paris green 
or preferably arsenite of lead. If a 
good spraying apparatus is not at hand 
the young worms may be “wiped out” 
of existence with an old rag or a 
bunch of grass; and later, when they 
have grown to nearly their full size, 
varying somewhat from about two 
inches, they may be burned by attach¬ 
ing an old rag to a pole and saturating 
with kerosene. This ignited and held 
under the nest or tent will make quick 
work. The worms hatching from one 
good-sized cluster of eggs, unchecked, 
are sufficient completely to destroy a 
young apple tree from one to three 
years old, and it stands one in hand 
who is setting out young stock to keep 
an eye out for this pest; and should 
the cluster of eggs have been unde¬ 
tected and the eggs have hatched to 
see to it that they do not get under 
headway. The nests when quite small 
can easily be seen some distance away. 
Each day the damage done is greater 
and greater as the worms increase in 
size. The tent caterpillar has not been 
very numerous in this section the pres¬ 
ent season, but the indications are that 
there will be plenty of them another 
year. f. h. m'farland. 
Vermont. 
Dripping Chimney, 
G. M., Maine .—Can you tell me liow to 
prevent creosote from a wood furnace fire 
forming in‘my chimney? It penetrates the 
brick and mortar both outside and inside 
of the house and runs down outside of chim¬ 
ney. The flue is about 18 inches square 
with no cap or covering on top. 
Ans.— This troublesome drip is caused 
by a defective chimney or the use of 
green wood. If dry fuel has been used, 
the difficulty is probably with the chim¬ 
ney. This may have to be rebuilt, but 
in some cases a simpler way to correct 
the trouble may be found by making an 
opening in chimney below stovepipe and 
putting in a piece of iron pipe or a grat¬ 
ing that can be closed when desired. If 
done properly this will improve the draft 
and help dry out the chimney. One ef¬ 
fective way to clean the chimney is to 
lower a rope from the top and fasten to 
it a bunch of thorns or some other rough 
bushes. This is pulled up and down the 
chimney until the lumps are scraped off. 
It will not be necessary for the man at 
the lower end to wear his best clothes 
for this job. 
Will Concrete Icehouse Satisfy ? 
What can you toll me about Icehouses 
built of concrete. Is it a practical mate¬ 
rial to use for the side walls of an ice¬ 
house? I mean as a solid eight-inch wall, 
with the intention of using sawdust be¬ 
tween the ico and the walls. Do you know 
of any all-concrete icehouses in actual use? 
Do you know of any that are a success, that 
is, that keep ico as well as it could be 
. reasonably expected to keep in a house con¬ 
structed in good shape of wood or other 
suitable building material? I have plenty 
of information of the plans and building 
instruction, and can also figure out the 
ideal icehouse on my own account, and con¬ 
struct it properly, but what I want to know 
is whether the icehouse built of reinforced 
concrete would be best to build to keep ice 
in? The cost is not considered, as I can 
build about as cheap of concrete as any 
other material. I want to lind out if I 
can about some other man's success or 
failure with a concrete icehouse, and I 
look to your paper as being about as reli¬ 
able a source of information as can be 
found. I have seen stone wall icehouses 
where they gave all the good results that 
could be asked for in ice-keeping qualities. 
Why won’t a concrete structure be as good? 
R. c. 
R. N.-Y.—Can any reader give practical 
experience? 
I 
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