mi. 
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the; rural new-yorker 
FRUIT FOR CENTRAL NEW JERSEY. 
Part II. 
York Imperial is a good market apple 
when well grown, nearly every speci¬ 
men is uneven or lop-sided, but when 
sprayed it is a good selling apple; color 
dull red, quality fair, size large. I sup¬ 
pose it would not do to mention Ben 
Davis, which is one of the most con¬ 
demned varieties in existence, and 
which is being planted all the time by 
orchardists as a variety to stand by, and 
is quoted in the markets as high as 
most varieties that are classed above it. 
It is a sure and heavy cropper, and 
when given proper care and culture is 
a beautiful fruit. The scale likes the 
tree better than any other variety. The 
small boy likes it because he gets a nice 
big, red apple; quality does not count 
as much as size and color '-with the 
child. The housekeeper likes it because 
it is one of the best cooking apples she 
can get in the markets. I like it when 
cooked better than any other apple. 
The editor of The R. N.-Y. does not 
like it, but would feed it to criminals 
instead of capital punishment. Out of 
100 trees I certainly would not advise 
planting so many varieties. Rome 
Beauty, White Ohio Pippin, Jonathan or 
Ben Davis for market, and a few trees 
of Grimes Golden, Baldwin, Smoke¬ 
house, Dominie, Nero and Winesap 
for family use would be the better plan. 
A. M. has also had the agent’s advice 
on peaches. I could give him better 
advice if I knew in what part of Mid¬ 
dlesex County he was located, and 
where he intended to market his fruit. 
The best peaches to plant are the North 
China type; they are hardier and more 
sure croppers. The Carman, an early 
semi-cling, has been the best paying 
orchard peach that we have had for a 
long time. Miss Lolo is another of the 
same class, not quite so large, but a little 
earlier than Carman. If still an earlier 
variety is wanted then Greensboro is 
good—one of the earliest peaches we 
have, that is worth calling a peach. All 
of the above varieties are semi-clings. 
The Belle of Georgia is one of the best 
paying main crop peaches we have, 
white flesh, freestone, ripening before 
Elberta. Elberta is of the same class, 
a large yellow-fleshed freestone, and 
while it is not of the best quality it is 
a good cropper, large size, beautiful 
fruit that always finds a ready market 
at high prices. Fox’s Seedling is a 
white flesh freestone peach, ripening in 
September, and is one of our most 
profitable market varieties. Iron Moun¬ 
tain is a very late white peach; must 
be thinned to bring it to perfection, as 
it is inclined to overload, which causes 
the fruit to be under size and poor color 
and about worthless. Unless it can be 
grown right do not plant it; under pro¬ 
per care it is a very profitable variety. 
The Champion is one of our finest 
peaches, large size, beautiful mottled 
cream color, and of the very best qual¬ 
ity. Some seasons a perfect freestone, 
but most of the time a semi-cling. Un¬ 
der unfavorable soil and climatic condi¬ 
tions it is the "worst variety on the list 
for rotting. Spraying with self-boiled 
lime sulphur may control it, and if the 
rot can be controlled Champion is one 
of the best paying varieties we have. 
Mountain Rose, Oldmixon, Stump and 
the Crawford class belong to the Per¬ 
sian type and are tender in bud, more 
subject to brown rot and other diseases 
than the North China type. Champion, 
Belle of Georgia, Elberta, Fox’s Seed¬ 
ling and Iron Mountain are all good 
profitable varieties. Plant good three to 
four-foot trees; buy y?>ur trees early in 
the Fall of some good reliable nursery¬ 
man, and have him instruct you how to 
trench the trees for the Winter, as early 
Spring is the best time to plant peach 
trees. Buy your apple trees and plant 
this Fall, if you can buy good thrifty 
one-year-old trees that are tree feet 
high or more. Do not buy two-year-old 
trees, three to four feet, as many of 
the trees listed of this grade are two 
years old. Such trees are stunted and 
worthless culls to plant in orchard. 
Many of the large orchardists are now 
planting apples 20 feet apart each way, 
the idea being to cut out every other 
tree as soon as they begin to crowd, 
which will be from 12 to 15 years. I 
know of one orchard planted in this 
way with the old Winesap that at six 
years of age averaged a bushel of good 
fruit to the tree, and the following year 
when seven years old yielded 3300 
bushels of fine fruit from the 1700 trees 
in the orchard. Other orchardists plant 
20 feet, every other tree being what is 
termed a “filler;” that is, some smaller 
growing and early bearing variety like 
Duchess of Oldenburg, Wealthy, etc. 
These planters claim that when the 
peach is used as a filler, and it pays, the 
temptation is to leave them too long, 
thus crowding and starving the apple. 
On the other hand I know by experi¬ 
ence and observation that the men who 
follow either of the above methods are 
just as prone to get just one more crop 
before using the ax, as the men who 
uses peaches for fillers. Whether we 
plant all apple at 20 feet apart or use 
peaches to fill up, we must remember 
that extra food must be given to pro¬ 
vide for the extra number. I have a 
neighbor who planted his apples with 
peaches to fill, as A. M. proposes to do. 
After they were planted four years he 
sold from eight acres $850 worth of 
peaches. The following year (1910), 
when peaches were much lower in price, 
he sold about $2400 worth of peaches 
and about $100 of apples, the apples 
coming from Wealthy and a few Jona¬ 
than. Most of his apple trees were 
planted for stocks to graft another va¬ 
riety on. Local conditions, varieties that 
succeed well in your locality, should be 
carefully studied and should be your 
best guide. e. s. black. 
I would have had to cut nearly one-half 
of my orchard down, as nearly half of 
the trees were affected with borers. No 
use trying lime, as I had already tried 
that, and went at them with clear kero¬ 
sene. I would rather experiment with 
the trees than cut them down, even if 
I did lose them in the end. I wanted 
to see if I could find anything that would 
kill them. 1 sprayed body and larger 
limbs with kerosene and I think I have 
cleaned them out, as I found only one 
live bug in the whole orchard. I write 
this thinking that some one else may 
have the same trouble and my experi¬ 
ence may help them. H. b. welch. 
Wayne Co., N. Y. 
R. N.-Y.—The letter from the experi¬ 
ment station named the insect as “shot- 
hole borers.” The advice was to cut out 
the worst trees and whitewash the 
others. Mr. Welch certainly gave his 
trees a strong dose when he used pure 
kerosene. We shall want to know how 
these trees look next Spring. We have 
seen trees killed by spraying with pure 
kerosene, yet when it is put on in a fine 
mist and not too much of it we have 
known it to kill the scale without hurt¬ 
ing the trees. 
Kerosene for “ Shot-hole Borers.” 
I have a sour cherry orchard of about 
70 trees four years old, which have 
made a fine growth. They are from 
four to six inches through, and were 
a very healthy tree. I noticed some of 
the leaves were turning yellow'; upon 
examination I found a black b. 0 boring 
holes in the bark and the sap running 
out and forming a gum. There have 
been fruit men here from different parts 
of Wayne County, and no one ever 
saw anything like it, but we all thought 
lime and sulphur and arsenate of lead 
would do away with them, so I painted 
the body and large limbs, as that is 
where they work, with the clear lime- 
sulphur and arsenate of lead. It had 
no effect on them whatever. It looked 
very much as if I was to lose my 
whole orchard. One man said: “That is 
a job for the experiment station; send 
them some bugs and bark;” which I 
did. I will forward you the letter I re¬ 
ceived from them (Geneva Experiment 
Station), which did not enlighten me 
any, for if I had followed their advice 
Filling Up Gullies. —On page 810, 
R. K. asks how to stop a gully, and 
W. F. Massey tells of one way—and a 
good way—like all of his recommenda¬ 
tions for the farm. Here is another 
way that I have found very effective on 
a hilly clay farm that washes almost 
like water running over flour. Take 
brush—evergreen, i. e., pine, cedar, 
spruce, etc., is preferable. Cedar should 
be plentiful around R. K. Lay the tops 
up the gully and put some dirt on them 
to hold them down, and make the water 
run over them. Lay it all along the 
gully _ if the brush is plenty, and put 
piles in the deep places, being careful to 
put the tops up stream, and see that 
they are fastened. The piles are for 
dams, and should be made long with 
the tops to the bottom of the gully, and 
if sufficient care is taken to lay it in the 
water will not run under them. If ever¬ 
green brush cannot be had, use any kind 
and mix in some straw or leaves to help 
to catch the silt. The best part of Mr. 
Massey’s recommendation is to keep 
such land in sod as much as possible— 
then you keep all the soil to make more 
grass. When the sod is broken up you 
are sure to lose much of the best of 
your soil. 
Kewanee, Ill. 
E. m. v. 
When you write advertisers mention Tiim 
R. N.-Y. and you’ll get a quick reply and a 
“square deal.” See guarantee editorial page. 
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Founded 1850- 
M anuf acturers 
-Oldest American 
