1911. 
<rHEC RURAL* NKW-YOKKER 
1037 
Belts and Other Things. 
For many seasons we have been 
struggling with high collars, to get them 
well up to our ears and to make them 
stay there, and now the high belt line 
adds its problem. These new and up-to- 
date items of dress may denote foolish¬ 
ness in women, but they do mean the 
fresh and well-gowned look that most 
husbands and sons like (whatever they 
say) to notice about their women folks. 
If you have a good dressmaker she 
probably tells you to buy one of the 
high foundation belts to fit your skirt 
over. Though you are your own dress¬ 
maker you may do the same, but if you 
are far from a city notion counter, or 
very economically inclined, you may 
make a belt for yourself, using a fitted 
pattern if you have one. Cut it from 
stiffening material and reinforce its 
standup qualities by adding up ancj 
down pieces of whalebone, four or five 
of them slipped into casings and se¬ 
curely fastened at top and bottom. Re¬ 
member that the skirt is to be attached 
to the top of this belt and to hang free 
from there. You will see that the belt 
must conform to the figure well, and 
must be wide enough to let its lower 
edge rest upon the hips. Naturally it 
will need to be somewhat larger upon 
the upper edge than on the lower across 
back and hips, but in front it should 
curve a trifle the other way to avoid a 
oushed-up appearance. One girl made 
such a belt stiffening for herself out 
of some of her father’s worn out linen 
cuffs. By lapping the lengths at a 
slight angle she shaped a belt which 
stayed where she wanted it. Afjter 
trimming down the upper edge to a 
straight line she covered the belt with 
some thin silk upon its inner face 
and found that this answered the pur¬ 
pose admirably. 
Usually a narrow fold of the skirt 
material, or perhaps of a contrasting 
material if such is used elsewhere upon 
Tie gown, stands up above the joining 
of the skirt to the foundation belt. Thi; 
bias fold is not more than a fourth of 
an inch wide when in place and it is 
very useful in breaking the awkward 
line at the skirt’s toD and also for hid¬ 
ing all evidences of the foundation belt 
Be sure to use plenty of hooks and 
snaps at the placket opening of these 
narrow skirts, for upon these trifles the 
trigness of your costume depends, hav¬ 
ing no flowing lines or grace of drapery 
to relieve its shape. 
As to the high collars which seem 
always with us, if you have a pretty 
neck you can now eschew them and af¬ 
fecting Dutch necks for house wear, 
take your ease in comfort. But if na¬ 
ture has condemned you to scrawni¬ 
ness and wrinkles in place of the ala¬ 
baster like column which should sup¬ 
port your head, why see to it that you 
have well fitted collars as high as you 
can wear them and thank fashion for 
her indulgence. 
One of the simplest and most econom¬ 
ical, as well as most becoming ways, 
is to have several collars made of white 
lace and shaped after 'the lines of the 
boned foundations found in all depart' 
ment stores. These can be had quite 
high except at the front where they 
curve down comfortably to avoid the 
chin. You can, of course, make your 
collars upon these 'shapes, but if you 
cut a stiff paper pattern of one which 
fits you well, you can fashion any num¬ 
ber more which will launder well and 
keep their shape. Begin by basting a 
narrow lace edging onto the paper 
along its upper edge and two ends. In¬ 
side this baste a line of insertion; for 
the remainder of the collar use piece 
lace cut to fit. Overhand all together 
while on the paper, rolling the raw 
edge of the piece lace to give firmness. 
Now cut from the piece lace a small 
tucker, or square neck reaching around 
to the back without shoulder seams; 
sew this to the lower edge of the collar, 
making a small seam. After the collar 
is ripped from the paper, whip or over¬ 
hand this seam to a close roll on the 
back of the goods and it will be strong 
and not very noticeable. Hem or face 
the tucker down the back, where it 
should be two or three inches deep. Add 
four uprights of featherbone, or nar¬ 
row, white whalebone in a casing of 
lawn, to the inside of the collar, hav¬ 
ing them slant forward from a point 
near the wearer’s ear and one at each 
side of the closing. These supports at 
the back strengthen the lace and give 
a firm hold for the little clasp pins used 
there which is some safeguard against 
their losing out. Such a collar can be 
washed out in five minutes and if pulled 
into shape will look well without iron¬ 
ing. To starch and iron stiff would be 
to spoil its fit. 
With a collar of this sort to wear 
beneath, you can have your waist cut 
in any preferred shape (but a tiny 
square neck is apt to be most becom¬ 
ing) and they can be finished in the 
simple, flat style favored at present, yet 
prove dignified and conducive to good 
looks. One lady who employs expen¬ 
sive dressmakers insists upon having 
all lace ’necks made detachable and pro¬ 
vided with lines of snap fasteners, that 
they may be removed and washed fre¬ 
quently. 
If of your piece lace you also fashion 
a pair of short under-sleeves, you will, 
with your boned collar and out-of¬ 
sight-belt, possess at least three up-to- 
date items in dress. Such sleeves can 
be made of lawn above the elbow and if 
fastened with a small safety pin at the 
shoulder can be worn with different 
gowns. The lace should be of even 
depth all around and finished with a 
narrow insertion and edge set on with¬ 
out fullness. AUGUSTA ROSE. 
Various Ways of Using Marshmallows 
To the candy-lover marshmallows are 
things to be enjoyed in their natural 
state, or doubly enjoyed when roasted 
over the coals of the Summer camp¬ 
fire, or over the cozy hotne-fire in mid- 
Winter, but they are something more 
valuable than mere candies to the 
housewife who knows how to make 
them serve in various emergencies. 
When serving cocoa and there is no 
cream, or no time to whip it, drop 
about four marshmallows into each cup 
and pour the boiling cocoa over them. 
They will come to the to,. as light and 
dainty as a bit of whipped cream, 
though not quite as puffy and fluffy. 
The flavor is delightful. If something 
is wanted to serve with a cup of cocoa 
to a caller put a marshmallow or two 
on a thin wafer, or unsweetened 
cracker, with a tiny bit of butter on 
each “mallow.” Place in a hot oven 
until the marshmallow spreads and 
slightly browns. 
Half a pound of marshmallows mixed 
lightly with a cupful of cream whipped 
stiff makes a delicious dish to serve 
with cake. Flavor the cream with 
vanilla, or whatever is liked. Pile lightly 
in glasses and serve with a strawberry, 
cherry or other preserved fruit on top. 
An extra touch is given by lining the 
glass with shredded pineapple, sliced 
banana, peaches or other fruit before 
filling with the cream. A similar dish is 
made by making a jelly with any of 
the gelatine preparations and mixing 
broken marshmallows through it when 
cool enough that it will not melt them. 
A fine filling for cake is made as fol¬ 
lows: Put one-fourth cupful of milk 
and three-fourths cupful of sugar to¬ 
gether and bring to boiling heat and 
let boil six minutes. While this is 
cooking put one-fourth of a pound of 
marshmallows in a basin and melt; add 
two tablespoonfuls of boiling water 
and cook until smooth. Add the syrup 
slowly, beating constantly. Flavor with 
vanilla and beat until cool enough to 
spread. The above makes a good icing, 
as well as a filling, but for those who 
prefer to make the plain boiled icing it 
is worth while to know that a few 
marshmallows pulled to pieces and 
beaten into the icing while hot (as soon 
as the syrup is poured over the egg) 
will make it of fine texture and keep it 
from cracking when cut. Ten or a 
dozen marshmallows in the icing for an 
average size cake. 
EVA RYMAN-GAILLARD. 
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ALL DRUGGISTS 
11-53 
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the moisture-proof 
package 
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