26 
THE CULTIVATOR. 
Jan. 
seating here given may be adopted, and if desirable 
the elevation may be plain. It should, however, al¬ 
ways be substantial, and of the best material and 
workmanship. 
We also copy the following remarks, in which the 
importance of the subject is by no means exaggerated : 
“Whatever may seem to argue to the contrary, in 
individual instances, it is doubtless true as a general 
thing, that a careless indifference on the part of any 
community, on the subject of popular education, finds 
its truest type in the character and condition of the 
school house. An intelligent and commendable zeal in 
the interests of popular culture, will show itself in 
practical efforts to improve and beautify the temples 
of instruction, and rear up fitting monuments to public 
intelligence and public taste. Nor this alone. It need 
not be argued, that, in educating the children, the si¬ 
lent influences of taste, beauty, loveliness, enstamp 
themselves upon the character—that like the sunlight 
and the dew, and the balmy air, they beautify and 
fertilize all that comes within the circle of their influ¬ 
ence. Too much care cannot be exercised in making 
our school rooms pleasant, healthful, and beautiful. 
The open fields in the gladsome summer time, with 
their wealth of hill and dale, green shady groves and 
singing birds, waving grain and fragrant air, are too 
fair a paradise to be exchanged for the pandemonium 
of a wretched filthy hovel, on the barren hill side, by 
the dusty street, unprotected from the scorching sun or 
the winter blast, or on the margin of a fetid marsh, 
enhaling its deadly miasma. No wonder that free, 
joyous childhood, will not be despoiled of its birthright, 
to pine away in the dreary monotony of such a prison. 
If children are expected to make improvement in their 
studies, the school room where they spend their hap¬ 
piest years must be made attractive. A moment’s 
consideration of this subject, in all its bearings of ex¬ 
pense, utility, health, will suffice to show that it does 
not pay to neglect these important interests. 
Covered Barn-Yards. 
Messrs. Editors —I have within a few days visited 
the farm of S. B. Atwood in Watertown, where his 
barn-yard is completely shedded over. Is this the best 
way 7 It hit my taste exactly, and as I intend to build 
a new underground barn, I would like your opinion, or 
that of some of your correspondents, on the subject. 
I have also a clover mill, shingle mill, and thresher, 
all driven by water-power, and I would inquire which 
is the best and most profitable way to dispose of the 
chaff—to let it rot in the heap, or to cart it to the barn¬ 
yard, and whether sawdust would be a help to it or 
not I Charles Bloss. Bethlem , Ct. 
It is generally best to have manure yards covered— 
depending, however, on circumstances. If there is too 
much water falling on the yard, it must of course prove 
detrimental, by carrying off liquid manure, to say 
nothing of the inconvenience of surplus water. On the 
contrary, if there is a large amount of straw and other 
vegetable matter to be worked down, a cover may keep 
it too dry. Again, a cover may be of little use, if the 
drippings of the eaves, and other surplus water, are 
permitted to flow the yard. Observation will readily 
show any farmer whether excessive water is wasting 
his liquid manure, or whether his vegetable materials 
are too dry to rot and ferment properly, and to act ac¬ 
cordingly. There is no doubt that the best manure is 
made where there is just enough of solid material add¬ 
ed to absorb all the liquid portions from animals, with¬ 
out any addition of water from rains—and this liquid 
portion is larger than is generally supposed ; hence the 
more common error is in not adding enough straw, chaff, 
dried muck, &c., and in all such cases, a shed is bene¬ 
ficial. 
The best way by far to use the chaff, is to use it as 
an absorbent for liquid manure, by carting it to the 
barn-yard, in a dry state. 
Draining Swamps. 
Messrs. Editors —Will it probably pay to drain a 
swamp with a surface of muck from 12 to .18 inches 
deep—sandy subsoil, and pretty well filled with stumps 
and roots, and quite wet. The adjoining land is worth 
from $75 to $100 per acre. 
My soil is a sandy loam about eight inches deep— 
subsoil yellow sand, not leachy. In what mode can I 
most speedily, (having due regard to economy,) by 
bringing up the subsoil and manuring, make a soil two 
feet deep. Can it be well done in a year or two, and 
with how much manure to the acre. Subscriber. 
Saratoga Springs, Nov. 7, 1857. 
We should think the soil described by our correspon¬ 
dent is of just the right character to yield a large pro¬ 
fit by draining—the subsoil forming a good solid bottom 
for the tile. 
We cannot judge the amount of labor and manure 
to make a good soil, not being acquainted with the cha¬ 
racter of the materials; but it is probable that after 
thorough draining, by the use of the subsoil plow and 
then of the double Michigan, a good depth could be 
attained, and a proper proportion of hard soil be mixed 
with the muck, to produce fine crops. A few loads of 
leached ashes per acre, and a moderate dressing of yard 
manure, say 25 to 40 loads, would probably give very 
fine crops. 
Transplanting Trees. 
Messrs. Editors —In a few weeks I intend putting 
out a lot of trees. I am at a loss to know whether it 
is best to deprive the young trees, before setting them 
out, of all the small rootlets or fibres which adhere to 
the main roots, which I have seen recommended in the 
“ Ohio Valley Farmer,” or whether to plant the trees 
as they have been taken from the nursery, with all the 
fibres and roots on, with the exception of those that are 
bruised. You or any of your subscriber’s advice in 
the matter, will much oblige a new beginner of fruit 
culture. C. F. Cincinnati , Nov. 5, 1857. 
It may be laid down as a universal rule, that the 
greater the amount of uninjured roots that can be 
transferred from one place to another, in transplanting, 
the better. If all the roots and fibres can be placed in 
the new position, precisely as they stood before, and 
without drying in the air, the tree would not only be 
uninjured, but unchecked in growth. Where, however, 
the young fibres have been much exposed, dried, and 
killed, they are of no value, and would be better cut 
off, the larger roots sending out new fibres to replace 
them. It is, however, safer to let them remain unless 
badly injured, but care should be taken to spread 
them out well, and fill earth well in among them. It 
is only where they cause interstices in careless setting 
out, that they prove prejudicial. 
-Q—9—©--- 
To Harden JLard for Candles. 
For 12 lbs. lard, take 1 lb. alum and 1 do. of salt¬ 
petre—dissolve the alum and saltpetre in a little water 
—mix the lard and water, or put them together over 
a fire, and boil till the water is all boiled eut. It must 
be stirred while boiling to get the alum and saltpetre 
well mixed with the lard. There will be some sedi¬ 
ment at the bottom. 
For tallow I should think one-third the above would 
be a plenty to harden the softest tallow ; but any one 
can tell by trying a little at first. If that is not 
enough, add more. C. F. W. Union Milis, la. 
