108 AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. [Mabch, 
which may be plunged in the soil of the hot-bed. 
The plants to be thinned to two, and when it is 
safe to set them in the open ground, turn out the 
ball of earth, without disturbing the roots, and 
plant it. Another method is, to lay a good sod, 
grass down, upon a board, and cut it in pieces 
about three inches square ; sow several seeds in 
the earth of each piece of sod, and set the whole 
in the hot-bed or cold frame. In planting, the sod 
containing the roots is placed in the hill. 
Egg Rant. —Nothing is gained by hurrying this 
tropical plant. It is the last of all tender things to 
be planted out, and the seeds should be sown last. 
Tlie plants need a heat of not less than 70°, and as 
they are not set out until June 1st, in the vicinity 
of New York, April 1st is early enough to sow the 
seeds. It will pay to pot the plants, when large 
enough to transplant, giving them rich soil. 
Horseradish. —The old, neglected patch of horse¬ 
radish in a wet corner should be abolished. It has 
a slovenly look, and it is difficult to get a good 
root from it when wanted. The plant should grow 
but one year, and then be taken up. Sets, made in 
trimming the roots for market, are used for plant¬ 
ing. They are about six inches long, and as large 
as a lead-pencil, or larger, with one end cut slant¬ 
ing, to indicate that it is the lower end, and must 
go down in planting. Market gardeners plant a 
row of horseradish midway between the rows of 
early cabbages. It maybe planted by itself, put¬ 
ting the sets 15 inches apart. Make a hole, with a 
small crowbar or rod, deep enough to allow the 
upper end of the set to be three inches below the 
surface. Plant at any convenient time. 
Kohl Rabi is a variety of the cabbage, of which 
the enlarged, turnip-shaped stem is eaten. Taken 
when about the size of a tea-cup,—before they be¬ 
come stringy,—they are delicious. Sow at the time 
for sowing ruta-bagas, in rich soil, in rows 18 
inches apart; thin to 10 inches, and, if desired, 
transplant the thinnings to the same distance. 
Leek is treated the same as onions. 
Lettuce. —Plants that were wintered in frames 
may be set out at the same time as early cabbages, 
placing them between the rows of cabbages, and a 
foot apart. They may also be transplanted to 
other cold frames, and give a crop earlier. Seeds 
should be sown under glass or in window-boxes, 
for a succession. As soon as the soil is in good 
condition, seeds may be sown in the open ground, 
in rows 15 inches apart, to be thinned to 10 inches. 
The Curled Simpson, Tennis-ball, and Ilanson are 
among the good kinds. 
Onions. —Set out any old onions, to grow green 
ones. See notes on “ Rare-ripes.” Plant sets or 
sow seeds, as mentioned elsewhere. Potato onions, 
which multiply by forming small bulbs, may be set 
out in rows 15 inches apart, puttiug in a small bulb 
every four inches. 
Parsley. —Sow in cold frame, window-box, or, 
when the soil is ready, in the open grouud. The 
seed is often several weeks in the ground before 
the plants appear. The Fern-leaved and Double 
Curled are both handsome arid good varieties. 
Parsnips. —Sow at the same time and at the same 
distances as carrots. 
Peas. —Sufficient was said on an early crop of peas 
on page 53, last mouth. 
Peppers, or Capsicum. —Sow at the same time and 
treat like egg plant. 
Potatoes. —Only the earliest varieties are regarded 
as garden crops ; hints on forwarding these were 
given last month on page 60. The Early Rose still 
stands among the best, and there are numerous 
other excellent early varieties. 
Radishes. —Seeds may be sown in the cold frame 
for a few very early, and in the open ground as 
soon as it can be worked, in drills a foot apart, 
dropping two or three seeds to the inch. Scarlet 
Turnip, round; French Breakfast, oblong; and 
Scarlet Short-top, long, are all good; the first- 
named is the most reliable. 
Rhubarb is sometimes forced by placing kegs, 
without head or bottom, over the plants, covering 
with a board, and heaping fermeuting manure 
around them. New beds may be made from seed¬ 
ling plants, or pieces of an old stool, so cut up as 
to have a bud to each root. In either case, set 
four feet apart each way in abundantly manured 
soil. Those who would raise rhubarb largely for 
market, should raise their own plants. Sow the 
seed early, in rich soil, in 15-inch drills; thin to 
four inches. Linnaeus and Victoria are the best. 
Salsify, and Scorzoncra, or Hack Salsify, may be 
sown now or later ; we prefer early sowing. If to 
be worked with the cultivator, sow in rows at a 
corresponding distance; if by hand, 15 inches apart. 
The soil should be deeply and richly manured, 
and the seed of last year’s growth used. Drop two 
seeds to each inch of row, and thin to six inches. 
Spinach. —Remove the covering from the wintered 
crop, and stir the soil between the rows. It may 
be used as soon as the central leaves have made 
some growth. Sow seeds for spring crop in rich 
soil, in rows 15 inches apart, if worked by hand, or 
if by horse at the width of the cultivator, sow 
about three seeds to the inch. The Round-leaved 
and the Lettuce-leaved are good sorts. Sow each 
week for succession. 
Squashes. —Seeds for a few early hills of Summer 
Crookneek may be sown on sods as directed for 
cucumbers ; but the main sowing must not be made 
until warm weather. 
Tomatoes may still be sown. The treatment of 
the young plants is given on page 126. Acme, May- 
Flower, Livingston’s Perfection, and Hathaway’s 
Excelsior are all fine. 
Turnips. —Where the maggot attacks them, it is 
of litttle use to sow early turnips. If they can be 
grown, put in the seed as early as possible, in rows 
15 inches apart. 
The Flower tiardrn and Soivvua. 
Under the above term is comprehended whatever 
part of the place is devoted to ornamental planting, 
be it the front portion of a village lot, a farmer’s 
front yard, or the more spacious pleasure grounds, 
such as almost every farmer might have, and would 
be profitable for him to have. In this country, 
where landed property changes hands so often, it 
is worth while to make the surroundings of a house 
attractive as an investment. While we would have 
lawns and ornamental trees, for their own sake, 
we would keep in view the fact that they are prof¬ 
itable. It will make a great difference to an in¬ 
tending purchaser of a place, if he approaches it 
by a dreary road, and finds the front yard in neg¬ 
lect and no trees for shade or beauty. If instead, 
there are no weeds in the fence corners, and rows 
of trees shade the approach ; if the paths and roads 
are well kept, the lawn neatly clipped, climbers at 
the piazza, while ornamental trees, shrubs and 
flower beds show taste and refinement, the first im¬ 
pression is worth more in effecting a sale than all 
the improvements have cost since they were begun. 
Paths and Roads.- —In improving a place the mis¬ 
take is often made of constructing these, because 
they look pretty on a plan, with graceful “ serpen¬ 
tine ” bends. Every road and walk should be 
made because it is needed to allow some point to be 
reached. It may be bent to avoid obstacles and may 
sweep in easy curves, but not a rod of either should 
be made that is not needed, nor should a zigzag 
approach be made when a direct one will answer. 
Roads and paths are not only to be made, but to be 
kept in order, and there should be no unused ones 
to fall into neglect. In making either, first exca¬ 
vate and lay in a foundation of stones, using 
small broken stones above, finishing with gravel. 
The Lawn, if small, and good turf can be had, 
may be made by laying sods. The turf is cut by 
laying down a board, 10 or 12 inches wide, and 
standing on that, cut down on each side of it with a 
sod-cutter or a spade, ground very sharp. Making 
one end of the strip loose, one person should begin 
to roll it up, while another uses the spade to cut 
off any roots that hold it to the ground. Such rolls 
are easier to handle than flat pieces. 
Preparing for the Lawn. —Whether large or small, 
or to be turfed or seeded, the soil should be drained I 
if needed ; well manured and spaded or plowed. 
It should then be harrowed, and the surface freed 
from stones, chips, roots, etc., by thorough raking. 
In a lawn to be sown, it is well to lay margins of 
sod along the paths and roads as well as along the 
outlines of any beds or borders. 
What kind of grass?— Our experience with mix¬ 
tures, or “lawn-grass” seeds has not led us to 
prefer them to one kind of grass. If the soil is 
light and sandy, we should sow Red-top, especially 
that variety known as Rhode Island Bent. On a 
stronger soil we prefer June Grass (Poa pratensis), 
which is also called Kentucky Elue-grass. With 
either, a quart of white clover may be sown to the 
bushel of grass-seed. What is known as the 
“Central Park Mixture,” consists of Red-top and 
Kentucky Blue-grass, of each 10 quarts ; Rhode 
Island Bent, 8 quarts; Creeping Bent, 3 quarts ; 
White Clover, 1 quart. Thick seeding is essential, 
as fine herbage is impossible without it. If the soil 
is in good condition, three bushels to the acre of 
mixed grasses, or of a single kind, is the least that 
should be sown. If the soil is poor, then four or 
five bushels will be required. 
Sowing the Seed.—It sown late, it is customary to 
mix a quart or so of oats with each bushel of grass- 
seed. The growing oats afford shade to the young 
grass. But the oats in a measure starve and are 
undesirable. They are not needed .when the sow¬ 
ing is done this month, or even as late as next. 
In sowing, divide the grass-seed into four por¬ 
tions, and sow' in four different directions. Sow 
only on a mild day. After sowing give the surface 
a light harrowing, or rake it, and then roll it. 
Deciduous Trees should have the same care in 
planting as advised for fruit trees. A few large 
stones placed over the roots will hold the tree bet¬ 
ter than stakes or a mound. 
Climbers should be planted where they can 
shade and ornament the veranda, 6ummer-house, 
etc. The Japan Honeysuckle; the Dutchman’s 
Pipe; Wistarias; Virginia, and Japan Creepers are 
among the desirable tall growers, while the Hybrid 
Clematises are among the finest low vines. 
Borders and Beds should be forked up and put 
in order. Perennials that have formed large clumps 
may be taken up and divided; in replanting, give 
them a new place. New plants of these may be 
procured ?ind planted. 
Annuals. — Some of the hardy annuals, the Lark¬ 
spur, and the California annuals, should be sown 
early in the open ground. The tender kinds may 
be sown in a hot-bed or window-box. 
Circen-lioii^e and Window Flants. 
The increasing heat of the. sun which causes a 
more rapid growth, will make necessary increased 
attention to watering. 
Repotting will be necessary with plants which are 
found on examination to have filled the ball with 
roots. Change to a pot a size larger aud fill in the 
space with rich soil. 
Insects will increase and fumigation with tobacco 
w'ill be necessary. 
Propagation of plants that will be needed for the 
beds and borders should be pushed forward. 
Plants in cellars must be looked to ; if any are 
very dry, water sparingly. If any have started 
into growth, bring them into the green-house or 
window, and water sparingly at first. 
Buggy Peas.— “B. H.”—It is a common im¬ 
pression that the weevil does not hurt the peas for 
sowing. It is true that the insect does not injure 
the germ, and the peas will grow ; but the young 
plants, being deprived of their proper nutriment, 
are more delicate at the start, and will remain so, 
as a consequence yielding a much smaller crop. 
Besides, no one should sow such peas, for the 
reason that he will aid in multiplying the insect, 
which has now spread over a large portion of the 
country. If the farmers and gardeners of a dis¬ 
trict would destroy all their buggy pea6 and pro¬ 
cure a fresh, sound stock of seed, they could, by 
a concerted action, 600 n get rid of the nuisance. 
