220 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[May, 
Asparagus should be cut only by careful hands, 
who will not injure the plants. As long as cutting 
continues the bed should be gone over every day, 
whether the shoots are needed or not. That sent to 
market must be bunched and kept standing upright. 
Beans are easily killed by frost, and while a few 
may be risked for very early, the main crop should 
wait for settled weather. For Limas, make well- 
manured hills four feet apart each way and set the 
poles, but do not plant the beans until the weather 
is “set fine.” Put in five or six beans to each hill, 
pressing them into the mellow soil with the eye 
downward. When well established, pull up all but 
two or three of the strongest plants. They some¬ 
times require to be helped in climbing the poles. 
Beets .—The first sown must be thinned as soon 
as large enough, leaving the smaller kinds four or 
five inches apart. Handle the thinnings carefully, 
keeping the tops all one way, for use as greens. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers .—The earliest crop, 
from wintered plants, should now be making rapid 
growth with proper encouragement by frequent 
hoeing. Plants raised this spring in hot-beds, or 
cold frames, must be well hardened by exposure 
before they are planted out. Seeds for the late 
crop are to be sown in a well-prepared bed in the 
open ground after the weather gets well settled. 
Savoy Cabbages are so different from the ordinary 
kinds that English writers treat of them as “Sa¬ 
voys,” as if they were a distinct kind of vegetable. 
Those not acquainted with them should make a 
trial of the Savoys. They are not so large or so 
hard as the other kinds, but vastly superior. 
Carrots .—The main crop is usually sown this 
month, though some sow as late as the middle of 
June. Use an abundance of seed, in order that the 
young plants may break through the ground freely. 
Thin sowing is a frequent cause of failure, as the 
young plants, being very weak and slender, can not 
make their way through the soil that covers them. 
Celery .—The seeds, if not already in, should be 
sown at once, in rows a foot apart. The seed is 
slow in germinatiug, and on account of frequent 
failures many prefer to buy the plauts. Much of 
the success in raising the plants depends upon roll¬ 
ing or otherwise bringing the soil in close contact 
with the seed after sowing. Keep clear of weeds 
and thin the plauts to two inches apart in the row. 
Celeriac or Turnip-rooted Celery, is sown in the 
same manner. 
Corn .—The general crop of sweet corn is put in 
at “corn-planting time,” but it is well to risk a 
small planting somewhat sooner, The chance of 
having a picking a week earlier is worth risking the 
loss of a little seed. 
Cucumbers .—Plants from seeds sown on sods or 
in pots, may be planted out as soon as danger of 
frost is over. Make well-manured hills four feet 
apart each way. Sow seeds in similar hills. The 
pickle crop is not usually sown before July. Use 
an abundance of seeds, as insects will demand a 
large share of the young plants. On a small scale, 
the best protection from insects is to cover the hills 
with a bottomless box or frame, with millinet or 
some such fabric over the top. In field culture, 
Paris green is used. Fine slaked lime ora mixture 
of ashes and plaster freely dusted over the young 
plants will keep off the “flea.” 
Egg-plants are the most thoroughly tropical of all 
garden vegetables, and are only to be set out when 
the soil is well warmed ; near New York not before 
June. It is well to pot the plants when large 
enough, so that they may be turned out without 
checking their growth. 
Horseradish may be planted any time this month 
in a well-manured bed by itself, or between the 
rows of early cabbages. When planted in the 
latter manner the foliage is kept hoed off until the 
cabbages are removed, when it is allowed to occupy 
the ground. The sets are four to six inches long, 
and from a fourth toahalf inch through. They are 
made in trimming the roots for market, the lower 
end being cut slanting to distinguish it from the 
top, which is cut square. The sets are dropped into 
a hole made with a small crowbar,and deep enough 
to bring the top of the set three inches below the 
surface. Plant from 18 to 24 inches apart each way. 
The roots should not be left in the ground longer 
than one season. Treated in this manuer the plant 
does not become a weed. 
Herbs, or Sweet Hrbs. —The leading kinds are 
sage, thyme, summer savory and sweet marjoram. 
The last named should be sown where it is to grow ; 
the seeds of the others may be sown in beds, in 
rows far enough apart to allow the hoe to be used 
between them. Sow thinly, cover slightly, and 
keep free from weeds, until June or July, when 
the plants are transplanted. 
Kohl-rabi. —Sow early and at intervals for succes¬ 
sion, in rows 18 inches apart and thin to 10 inches. 
Give rich soil and encourage rapid growth. This 
is a delicious vegetable if taken when about three 
inches through. Later it becomes stringy and use¬ 
less save for cattle. 
Lettuce. —Transplant to rich soil, a foot apart each 
way; hoe often. Sow seeds of India or other late kind. 
Martynias. —Sow when the soil is well warmed, 
and transplant to three feet each way. 
Melons require the same treatment, and are at¬ 
tacked by the same insects as cucumbers. 
Onions. —Sets may still be planted and in northern 
localities seed may yet be sown. As soon as the 
rows can be seen run a push-hoe, or hand-cultivator, 
between them. Hand-weeding should begin as soon 
as weeds are visible. Sufficient was said about 
raising sets in March last. If any plants turn yel¬ 
low or droop, dig them up with the maggot which 
killed them. In marketing it pays to sell a 
part of the crop in bunches, when partly grown. 
Parsley.— Sow, if not already done. When large 
enough, transplant. It makes a pretty edging in 
the kitchen garden. 
Parsnips may still be sown; some prefer to wait 
until the soil is warm, but we usually sow among 
the earliest things in order to get strong plants be¬ 
fore drouths come. 
Peas. —“American Wonder” andotherdwarf va¬ 
rieties may be sown wherever there is room. Tall 
varieties should have the earth drawn to them, and 
given some support before they fall over with 
their own weight, as it is then difficult to make 
them cling to the brush. In localities where brush 
is scarce, a wire trellis, made as described else¬ 
where, will be found an excellent substitute. 
Pppers are transplanted from the hot-bed or win¬ 
dow box, at the time of setting out tomatoes. 
Potatoes should have early attention to save them 
from the “beetle, and the more thoroughly the first 
brood of insects are poisoned, the smaller the next. 
Padishes. —Sow frequently for succession. 
Rhubarb. —Never cut the leaves, but separate 
them with a side-wise pull. Cut the flower-stalks 
when they first appear, and continue to do so. 
Salsify may be much increased in size by thin¬ 
ning to six inches ; give frequent lioeings. 
Spinach.— As soon as the early sowing is large 
enough, thin the plants to three inches apart and 
use the thinnings ; a little later every other plant 
may be cut for use, allowing the last to become 
quite large. Sow every two weeks. As soon as the 
soil is well warmed sow New Zealand Spinach for 
use in the hot months. 
Squashes. —If seeds of bush sorts were started 
under glass, plant out, and sow seeds in hills 
or rows, thinning to 18 inches apart. Use plenty 
of manure. Superphosphate helps them. Win¬ 
ter Squashes—Boston Marrow, Hubbard Mar¬ 
blehead and Butman are among the best— 
should be sown when the ground is well 
warmed. Manure the whole plot, and give the 
bills or rows a little good fertilizer. Make hills 
eight feet apart each way, or lay out rows 12 feet 
apart and put in a dozen seeds at every four feet. 
As soon as the plants appear, dust with ashes and 
plaster; hand-pick squash bugs, and if the 12- 
spotted squash beetle appears, give it poison. A 
single strong plant, or at most two in a place, will 
be enough in a hill. 
Sweet Potatoes.—It plauts or “draws” are to be 
raised, cut the large potatoes lengthwise, and 
place them on the soil of a hot-bed (cut surface 
down); cover with two inches of sand or light soil. 
Tomatoes .—Set out when frosty nights are no 
longer feared. It is well to have a reserve stock of 
plants to guard against accidents. Where there 
are few sets they may be protected as described 
elsewhere. In garden culture support the vines 
by some kind of trellis, which should be put in 
place when the plants are set out. Those who re¬ 
quire but a few plants, usually prefer to buy, rather 
than to be at the trouble of raising them. It is better 
to procure potted plants, even if the price is much 
higher than that for the crowded, drawn-up things 
usually sold. 
Turnips .—Sow the Ruta-baga sorts the last of the 
month or the first of next. For table use, the 
White French, though not the largest, is the finest 
flavored. Rich soil, clean culture and thorough 
thinning are needed. 
Watermelons do best on a light warm soil, well 
manured. Lay out furrows eight feet apart, place 
well-rotted manure in them and cover it with soil 
to form a bed a few inches above the general sur¬ 
face. Sow an abundance of seed in this bed, as 
only a small proportion usually germinates. When 
well up, thin to 18 to 24 inches, and protect from 
insects as mentioned under cucumbers. 
Odds and Ends .—Success in gardening depends 
largely upon little things. As soon as seeds are 
seen breaking the soil, a sharp hoe run near the row 
will help them .... A rake with long, sharp, steel 
teeth, runoverthe surface frequently, will destroy 
thousands of young seedling weeds .... Every 
gardener should have a “Lance-headed hoe”—get 
a triangular piece of steel—an old saw plate will 
answer. Ours is 41 inches long and 21 inches wide 
at base ; fit it to a goose-neck shank by which to 
to attach it to the handle. The shank should be 
so bent as to allow the blade to lie flat when the 
handle stands erect. Grind the two long edges 
sharp, with a short bevel. This is the most useful, 
single implement we have .... Every garden, except 
a very small one, should have a seed drill.... 
Some of the hand-cultivators are very effective. 
Several of the seed-drills have cultivator-attach¬ 
ments .... Thinning, especially of root crops, is 
rarely overdone .... Whatever vegetables are sent 
to market, put them up in the neatest manner. 
Flower Oai’den and I.awn. 
Lawns if they must be made so late as this, should, 
if small, be laid with turf, if it can be procured. 
(See last March for sowing seed). At this time, it 
will be well to mix about a quart of oats with each 
bushel of grass seed. The oats, which will shade 
the young grass, should be cut before they flower. 
Mowing on established lawns should be done as 
often as the growth of grass requires. There is often 
a drouth this month or next, during which little 
growth will be made, and but little mowing 
needed. Weeds in lawns, if annual, are kept down 
by frequent mowing. The perennials, dock, plan¬ 
tain, dandelion, etc., may be pulled when young. 
If allowed to get large, they must be rooted out, 
using a knife. 
Bedding Plants should be hardened off before they 
are set out. Do not attempt ribbon planting, or 
any fancy beds unless they can be kept in order. 
Small circular, oval, or other beds with pleasing 
outline, each filled with one kind of geraniums, ver¬ 
bena, or other flower, are effective. 
Cannas and Dahlias may be planted when the 
weather is settled. Place in a green-house, hot¬ 
bed, or other warm place to start the buds, when it 
can be seen how the roots may be divided. 
Gladioluses are at least half-hardy. Some may be 
planted early and others at intervals of two weeks 
until July, and thus give a succession. 
Tuberoses, in the absence of a green-house, may be 
planted in pots or a box of earth in a sunny win¬ 
dow, to start them. 
Climbers .—For immediate effect, such annuals as 
Morning-glory, Cobsea, Lophospermum and others 
