1883 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
271 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
At the time of writing these notes the spring is 
very backward, but those who observe the seasons 
closely have found that, taking one year with an¬ 
other, the first of June finds vegetation in about the 
same condition. If early development has been re¬ 
tarded, a later and more rapid growth has made up 
for this, and by the first of this month no signs of 
the early backwardness are visible. As a general 
thing, when we have a late spring, the season of 
; growth is prolonged at the other end, and we have 
a. most favorable autumn. These notes have 
reference, not only to the particular month for 
which they are written, but also to weeks that im¬ 
mediately precede and to those which will follow 
this month in which they appear. 
The Orchard ami Nursery. 
First, last, and all the time, the orchardist must 
keep up his fight with insects. Success in fruit¬ 
growing so largely depends upon the destruction 
of insects, that we feel it a duty to keep this sub¬ 
ject prominently before our readers. 
The Codling Moth or Apple Worm. —Heretofore it 
has been supposed that destroying the fallen fruit, 
and trapping, by means of cloths around the 
trunks, the worms which left the apples remain¬ 
ing upon the tree, were the only helps. The 
moth, soon after the fruit sets, lays her egg upon 
the calyx end of the young apple. The young 
grub, as soon as hatched, eats its way into the cen¬ 
ter of the little apple, and there, “ growing with its 
growth,” works its mischief. 
Poisoning the Worm. —Experiments by some West¬ 
ern orchardists show that Paris green may be suc¬ 
cessfully used to destroy the apple worm. Soon 
after the young fruit is set, the whole orchard is 
showered with water, in which a small quantity of 
Paris green is stirred, in the proportion of a table¬ 
spoonful to a barrel of water. The liquid should 
be thrown in a fine spray, in order to wet every 
young apple. In its early state, the young fruit is 
erect, its calyx upwards, and the least particle of 
poisoned water falling upon it is sufficient to dis¬ 
pose of the young apple-worm when it attempts to 
■eat into the fruit. 
Is it not Dangerous? it will be asked. We do not 
regard the process as at all risky. Assuming that 
=all the poison that fell upon the young fruit could 
remain until that was ripe, there would be but lit¬ 
tle danger; but as the rains of months will fall up¬ 
on the fruit, there is no danger to be feared. Fruit¬ 
growers look upon this method of treating the 
.apple-worm as a discovery of great value. 
Thinning is the most important work of the pres¬ 
ent month. While it is abroad regarded as a part 
of the regular orchard work, it has been but lit¬ 
tle practised here. Those who have doubts as to 
Pits value, should thin the fruit upon a single row 
of trees, and keep an account of the market re¬ 
turns. If two-thirds of the fruit upon apple, pear, 
•or peach trees be removed soon after it is set, 
There will then, in ordinary seasons, be too much 
left to mature. 
Crafts.— A graft should be regarded as a tree 
planted in another tree, instead of in the soil, and 
its growth needs to be regulated by proper pinch¬ 
ing. Often the growth from a bud will be very 
vigorous. If the top of thi6 be pinched, it will 
become stocky, and throw out side branches. 
Pruning. —Many prefer to prune at this season, 
-as wounds heal readily. In pruning, do not cut 
away a branch without a definite object in view. 
Young Trees planted this spring should be 
watched, and their form regulated by pinching 
the shoots that push too vigorously, and by break¬ 
ing off the shoots which start where branches are 
not needed. A little care given to trees while 
young will make later pruning unnecessary. 
Slugs, as the green, slimy caterpillars are called 
which appear upon the leaves of pear and cherry 
trees, are best treated by a dusting of dry-slaked 
lime. This may be applied by shaking it from a 
■bag of open fabric, fastened to the end of a pole. 
Fruit Garden. 
The notes last month for this department were 
very full, and many suggestions there given are 
equally applicable now, especially that on 
Mulching. —Any loose litter will answer as a 
mulch. In grain-growing localities, straw is al¬ 
ways to be had. Whatever will cover the ground 
and prevent evaporation, may be used. Look out for 
The Currant-worm, and use white hellebore, as 
directed last month. 
Crape Vines are trained in so many different 
forms, that we can only give general directions. 
Shoots will push from the buds formed last year. 
The growing ends of these should be pinched, 
leaving two or three leaves beyond the uppermost 
bunch of grapes. Young vines should not bear 
more than one bunch to the shoot. Remove all 
others. The Rose-bug often does much injury to 
the young grapes. Shaking it oil and catching it 
in early morning, while torpid, is the only remedy. 
Kitclien and Market Garden. 
The most important crop the present month is 
weeds. The warmth of the soil starts into growth 
those which have been dormant, and myriads of 
seedlings appear. A sharp rake, drawn over the 
surface, is a most efficient implement for the de¬ 
struction of seedling weeds. 
Belated Crops.— If sweet-corn or Lima beans, etc., 
were planted too early and cut off by a late frost, 
do not be discouraged, but try again. 
Asparagus. —So long as cutting continues, cut 
every shoot, large and small. The old rule, to 
stop cuttiug when green peas are ready, is a good 
one. Recollect that next year’s crop will depend 
upon this year’s growth of tops. An application of 
nitrate of soda, 300 lbs. to the acre, when the cut¬ 
ting is over, will be of great service. 
Beans. —The main crop of the bush sorts may be 
planted. Lima beans often sprawl upon the 
ground, and need aid to make them take to the 
pole. If the stems are tied against the pole, giv¬ 
ing them a few turns with a strip of cloth or other 
soft material, they will care for themselves. 
Beets. —It is a good plan to sow an abundance of 
beet seed, in order to have the thinnings to use as 
greens. The crop of Turnip or Egyptian, for win¬ 
ter use, should be sown the middle of this month. 
We prefer them, for winter, to the larger kinds. 
Cabbage and Cauliflower. —The early planted should 
be forwarded by frequent hoeings. Sow seeds in 
the open ground of the winter sorts, not forget¬ 
ting the Savoys. 
Caimots sown early the present month will make 
a crop. Sow a plenty of seed, as the young plants 
are feeble and break ground with difficulty. Thin 
those already up. 
Celery. —Set out in well-manured soil, in rows 
three feet apart, with the plants every six inches in 
the row's. In the climate of New York City, the 
setting begins about the middle of this month, 
and extends well into next month. After planting, 
look out for weeds. 
Corn.— Plant for a succession every week, and 
keep the crop clear of w'eeds. 
Cucumbers. —The crop for pickles is sown from 
the middle of this month until the middle of next. 
Make manured furrows, five feet apart, and sow 
seed, dropping it an inch or two apart over the 
manure. When the plants are up, and out of the 
way of insects, thin so as to leave them about a 
foot apart in the rows. 
Egg-Plants. —Plant in very rich soil, and then 
look out for the Colorado Potato-bug. If there 
are any near, they will find the egg-plants. 
Kohl Rabi. —Thin the plants to 10 inches apart, 
and encourage rapid growth by hoeing. Use while 
young and tender. 
Martynias. —Sow in rich light soil, and thin 
finally to one plant every three feet in the rows. 
Onions. —Keep clear of weeds. A dressing of 
wood-ashes will help the crop. 
Peas. —Picking should be carefully done, else the 
vines will be injured. Late sown peas usually fail, 
but it is worth while to risk a few, as in a favor¬ 
able season they will give fair returns. 
Potatoes. —Keep well hoed, and apply poison. 
Rhubarb. —Cut off the llower-stalks as fast as 
they appear. 
Squashes.— Success with these depends upon 
fighting insects. Examine the under-sides of the 
leaves for the eggs of the Squash-bug, and crush 
them. Allow the vines to take root. 
Sweet-Potatoes. —In Northern localities, the plants 
should be set this month. 
Tomatoes. —If not already done, set out the 
plants. In garden culture, a trellis of some kind 
should be provided. This should be put in place 
soon after the plants are set out, and the vines 
tied up before they get so large as to fall over. 
Watermelons. —If the first planting failed, put in 
more seeds. Look out for insects. 
Odds and Ends. —A grindstone is a useful adjunct 
to the garden, if properly used upon the hoes. 
The difference between the work done with a sharp 
hoe and a dull one is most astonishing. The fre¬ 
quent use of a sharp rake among cabbages, and 
wherever the surface of the soil permits, will do 
wonders in killing weeds. Thin freely all root- 
crops. Parsnips, beets, carrots, etc., when given 
room, will be larger and more tender. As soon as 
a crop is off, occupy the land with something, if 
only peas, to be spaded under, to enrich the soil. 
Flower Garden and Lawn. 
The Lawn should be mowed at least once a week, 
if the growth of the grass warrants it. All lawn 
mowers made in this country scatter the clippings, 
leaving them on the lawn, where they soon shrivel 
and act as a mulch. The frequency of mowing 
should be governed by the growth of the grass. 
In a time of drouth, it must be suspended. 
Beds cut in the Lawn. —Keep the margins of the 
beds well defined. If the grass runs into the beds, 
use a strong knife and cut off all intruding roots. 
Bedding Plants. —Set out the tender kinds, such 
as coleus, etc., and if a late frost is feared, cover 
the bed with newspapers, using stakes to prevent 
them from resting upon the plants. 
Spring Bulbs. —As fast as the leaves die down, 
lift the bulbs and store in a dry place until needed 
for autumn planting. 
Stakes and Ties. —Much of the neat appearance of 
the flower garden depends upon stakes and ties. 
The tall kinds of dahlia must have them, and 
gladioluses and tuberoses are apt to have their 
flower-spikes beaten down unless staked. 
Greenhouse and Window Plants. 
Year by year, those who have greenhouses are 
learning that the old way of stripping them at the 
approach of warm weather is not the best way. 
There are many plants, camellias, azaleas, and 
others, that may be put outside, but a little fore¬ 
thought will allow one to provide decorative plants 
that will keep the greenhouse attractive in mid¬ 
summer ; so with window-plants. It is but a step 
from the “window-garden” to the “balcony- 
garden,” and the two may well be made to work 
together. If pots of plants are to be set out of 
doors, take every precaution as to their safety. 
Put them in partial shade, but not under the drip 
of trees. If the sun will beat upon the pots, lay a 
board against them as a protection. Place the pots 
on a layer of coal-ashes, to keep out worms. Take i 
care that insects do not injure them, and that they 
do not suffer for water. 
To those who ask us how to separate Osage 
Orange seeds from the balls, we would say—Wait! 
The “ Oranges ” have to undergo at least two 
months oi preparation. If the balls are but few, 
put them in a box or barrel. If many, stack them 
in some convenient place, and if where cattle can 
reach them, build a rail pen to keep the animals 
off. Here they are to remain, in rain and snow, to 
freeze and thaw, all winter; those in the box or 
