1883 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
315 
swine. Provide a bed of sand in the yard or pen. 
Pigs to come in November should be spoken for 
this mouth. If the stock is not what is desired, 
begin at once to improve it by securing the use of 
some pure-blood male. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
The early varieties of fruit keep, as a rule, but a 
short time after ripening, and do not bear long 
transportation. Early apples, of good size ard 
attractive appearance, meet with a ready sale at 
high prices. Those who plant orchards near large 
cities find their greatest profit from early varieties, 
as with these there is but little competition from 
distant localities. 
Marketing Early Fruit .—It is best to pack early 
apples and pears in baskets or crates. Pick as 
soon as mature, before softening takes place, and 
assort carefully, making three qualities—first and 
second for market, and a third for the pigs. 
Biaches .—The greater the distance from market,, 
the more care should be given to picking. The 
fruit must remain hard until it reaches the con¬ 
sumer or retailer ; any softening while in trans¬ 
portation will cause damage and loss. 
Preparing for the Fairs .—Those who compete for 
the prizes offered for the “ best plate ” of any 
variety of fruit, often select the specimens before¬ 
hand, and by excessive thinning, cause them to 
grow to a great size. 
Young Trees , planted last spring, are poorly pre¬ 
pared to endure the drouths of mid-summer. If 
the surface soil can not be kept light by cultiva¬ 
tion, a mulch should be put around the tree. This 
may be straw, litter of any kind, chips, or even 
stones. All superfluous shoots, those which start 
where a branch is not needed, should be rubbed 
off. It is much better to shape the trees while 
young than to allow them to grow at will for years, 
and then cut away a large part of the growth. 
Budding usually begins this month in the nur¬ 
series, the exact time for each fruit being governed 
by the condition of the stock and the maturity of 
the buds. Cherries are usually budded first, then 
plums, which are followed by pears. 
Blight is the name for the greatest affliction of 
the fruit-grower. It attacks pear trees especially, 
and the first knowledge their owner has of its 
presence is the blackening and death of a branch 
or of the whole tree. We are unable to apply a 
preventive, and can only cut away the dead por¬ 
tions, or the whole tree, and burn them. 
The Bed Spider, usually regarded as a green¬ 
house pest, sometimes attacks fruit and other trees 
in the open air. If the leaves turn dull and brown¬ 
ish, it is probable that the Red Spider is the cause. 
The insect is so small as to escape notice. If the 
under surface of the leaves is covered with a very 
thin web, and minute blackish or red specks are 
seen moving about, apply either a solution of 
whale-oil soap or of soft-soap, stirring a small 
quantity of kerosene with the soap before adding 
the water. Apply the solutions with a syringe or 
garden pump to the undersides of the leaves. 
Tlte I-Vuit i.anlcu. 
Strawberries .—The treatment of the plants after 
the fruit is gathered will depend upon the system 
of culture. If the vines are grown in single rows 
(the best for the family garden), remove the 
mulch, cut off the runners, and fork in a dressing 
of fine manure or some good fertilizer. If any 
weeds have started in the rows, pull them by hand. 
Some replace the mulch to keep down weeds, while 
others prefer to cultivate the soil, and not apply a 
mulch until cold weather. In the alternate row 
system, the runners are encouraged to strike in 
paths that have been spaded and manured to re¬ 
ceive them. As soon as pot-layered plants are 
well rooted, they may be planted out. The strik¬ 
ing of runners in pots may be continued. 
Raspberries .—Only those shoots or suckers which 
will be needed for bearing next year, are to be al¬ 
lowed to grow. Hoe up all others. 
Currants ,—Fruit to be used for jelly should be 
picked as soon as it is fairly red. Much of the 
trouble of house-keepers with jelly making, comes 
from using over-ripe fruit. For the table, the cur¬ 
rants can not be too ripe. The season may be 
prolonged by mulching the bushes. If long and 
vigorous shoots start and push up in the center 
of the bush, break them off while young. 
Insects Infesting the Grape are numerous, but at 
the present season they are for the most part large 
solitary caterpillars and beetles. One who gives 
his vines proper attention, will discover and de¬ 
stroy these before they do much mischief. 
Mildew is the greatest enemy to the grape-grower. 
While some varieties are more readily attacked 
thau others, in a season when mildew is prevalent, 
few, if any, are exempt. If small whitish patches, 
having the appearance of mould, appear on the 
leaves, usually on the under surface, use sulphur 
at once. The bellows should be so used as to dif¬ 
fuse the sulphur in a cloud, and allow it to settle 
upon all parts of the vine. The work should be 
done in a still day. 
Summer-layering .—This method of propagating 
the grape may be practised this month, as early as 
the shoots are firm enough to handle. Directions 
for the operation were given on page 278, in J une. 
Kiitcliei* and Market Garden. 
Asparagus .—The crop of next spring will depend 
upon a vigorous growth of tops this summer. Do 
not allow any large number of tops to be cut for 
use as “ fly catchers,” as we often see done. Every 
plant cut now means several spears less next spring. 
The thick mass of tops will keep down most 
weeds; if an occasional tall “pig-weed” estab¬ 
lishes itself, pull it up. If seeds were sown to 
grow plants for making a new plantation, keep 
the bed clear of weeds, and encourage the plants 
by occasional hoeing. 
Beans are hot weather plants, and a sowing of 
the bush sorts may be made at any time to keep 
up a succession. If wanted for pickling, the “Ref¬ 
ugee” is preferred. If Limas, after reaching the 
tops of the poles, throw out long wandering 
branches, pinch off the ends of these, to induce a 
setting of pods. 
Beets .—Continue t£> thin the earlier sown, and 
keep clear of weeds. The “Blood Turnip” may 
still be sown for winter use. We find it much 
preferable to the large kinds. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers. —Plants, when large 
enough, are to be set out from the seed-bed. Land 
which was occupied by early potatoes, with a lib¬ 
eral manuring, makes an excellent cabbage ground. 
Give the surface of the soil an occasional dressing 
with the rake, to keep down the weeds. In locali¬ 
ties where the “ Cabbage-worm ” is troublesome, 
use Pytethrum powder or hot water. 
Carrots .—Continue to work between the rows 
until the tops are so large as to be in the way. 
Celery is usually set out this month. Market- 
gardeners put it upon land heavily manured for 
early cabbages or other early crop. Prepare the 
ground by throwing out the soil with the plow, 
going twice in the row, and place well-rotted ma¬ 
nure in the furrows. Throw the soil back, and 
work it with the roller and harrow until a fine bed 
is made. The manured furrows should be three 
feet apart, and the plants set every six inches in 
the rows. Keep the plants well cultivated, and re¬ 
place any that may die, from a reserve lot. 
Celeriac is set out in the same manner as celery. 
Com .—Some of the early sorts may still be plant¬ 
ed, to give a late supply. If seed is*to be saved, 
select the seed-stalks, and mark them by tying 
on them a strip of white cloth before any ears 
are gathered. As soon as the ears are all off, 
cut up and cure the stalks if not wanted for im¬ 
mediate feeding. 
Cucumbers .—If seeds are to be saved, mark the 
earliest specimens before any are cut for use. 
Cut all that are large enough, whether needed 
for use or not, as this will prolong the bearing. 
Seeds for the pickle crop may still be sown. 
Kohl-rabi .—Seeds may be sown for a late crop. 
If grown in rich soil and used while young, this is 
a delicious vegetable. The old rule, “use when 
not larger than a teacup,” is a good one. 
Martynias.—Keeji well hoed, and gather the fruit 
for pickles while yet so tender as to offer no resist¬ 
ance to the thumb-nail. If any get too old, cut 
them away. 
Melons .—'The fight must be kept up with insects. 
Hand work, when the vines are small, will do 
much. If the Spotted-beetle attacks the vines, 
Paris green is the only remedy. 
Okra.— Keep clear of weeds, and use while the 
green pods are tender. If more are produced than 
are needed for immediate use, slice in half-inch 
pieces, and dry for winter use. 
Onions .—Keep down the weeds by hoeing as 
often as necessary. For a near market, onions 
often pay best if bunched and sold while green. 
When half-grown, from three to six, according to 
the market, are tied in a bunch, first washing 
and removing any loose skin. 
Peas .—As a rule, late peas mildew. Some of the 
early varieties may be sown at a venture. 
Peppsi-s.— Encourage by frequent hoeing, and 
cut the fruit as soon as large enough for pickling. 
Radishes .—The Chinese Rose-colored Winter, de¬ 
scribed elsewhere, may be sown this month. 
Rhubarb .—After the early fruits are plenty, the 
rhubarb is allowed to rest, though an occasional 
picking may be made if desired. Keep the flower- 
stalks cut away. 
Salsify .—'Though not generally used until win¬ 
ter, the roots are good whenever large enough. 
Squashes .—Keep down the weeds, and when the 
vines prevent the use of the hoe or cultivator, pull 
by hand those which appear. Continue the fight 
with insects. Hand-picking will keep the mal¬ 
odorous black Squash-bug in check. If the vines 
take root at the joints, do not disturb them. 
Small, unripe squashes of any of the winter varie¬ 
ties, especially of the Hubbard, when cooked, are 
superior to the summer squashes. 
Sweet-Herbs— Sage, Thyme, etc., are usually sown 
in a seed-bed, from which they are transplanted to 
land left vacant by early crops. They may be set 
out any time this month in rows a foot apart, with 
the plants eight or ten inches apart in the rows. 
They do not make much growth until we have 
cool nights, but must be kept clear of weeds. 
Sweet Marjoram, being rather difficult to trans¬ 
plant, does best if sown where it is to grow. 
Sweet-Potatoes .—These are often slow in getting a 
start. Keep the ridges clear of weeds, and it may 
be necessary to build them up anew witli the hoe 
and spade. When the vines once start to run, do 
not allow them to take root; this may be pre¬ 
vented by lifting them with a hoe-handle. 
Tomatoes .—If the rot appears, cut away and de¬ 
stroy the affected fruit. The cause is not yet 
ascertained. If, as is possible, it is due to a fun¬ 
gus, this will tend to check it. Keep the vines 
tied to the trellis. 
Turnips .—The Ruta Baga sorts may still be sown 
very early this month. For table use, none are 
equal to the “ Long White French,” though it is 
not so large as some others. Give rich soil, use a 
plenty of seed, and thin early. The Yellowstone 
and Aberdeen may be sown during the month. 
Watermelons .—The insects that attack squashes, 
melons, and others of the family must be fought. 
Those marauders who look upon -watermelons as 
common property, often save one the trouble of 
deciding when the watermelon is ripe. Having 
been troubled by “vermin ” of this class, we one 
year put up a conspicuous sign to this effect: 
“ Caution ! Those who take melons, must be care¬ 
ful to select those which have not been poisoned.” 
No melons were missed that season. 
Weeds .—When a crop is removed, do not allow 
the land to grow a crop of weeds. It may be sown 
to buckwheat, peas, or other plant that will smother 
the weeds, the crop to be plowed or spaded under 
before frost. 
