334 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[July, 
Home-Made Capers. 
A friend in Virginia inquires of us if the 
climate of that State will allow of the culti¬ 
vation of Capers, and asks how he shall 
propagate the plants. This is one of many 
illustrations of the tendency of the people 
of the Southern States towards a diversified 
husbandry. Instead of depending solely 
upon cotton and corn, the present generation 
of farmers cultivate crops that were un¬ 
known to their fathers. The indications are, 
that before many years every crop that may 
be profitably grown in a sub-tropical climate 
will be produced in our Southern States. In 
the introduction of a new culture, the cli¬ 
mate, though an important one, is not the 
only point to be considered. There are certain 
crops that can only be grown in thickly set¬ 
tled localities, such as those which must be 
gathered at once and rapidly. Though the 
crop may be grown without difficulty, it is 
worthless unless there is abundant help to 
gather it on a given day. The Caper is a na¬ 
tive of the south of Europe, and flourishes 
on both shores of the Mediterranean. As it 
survives the winter in the vicinity of Paris, 
with a slight protection, it is very probable 
that it could be cultivated in Virginia. The 
Caper is a very prickly, much branched, 
straggling shrub, three to five feet high. 
The engraving shows the habit of the plant, 
and the shape of the leaves. The appearance 
of the flowers is given in the separate 
branch above. The botanical name is Cap- 
paris spinosa, and it is the type of a small 
order of plants, the Caper Family, nearly 
related to the Mustards. The portion used 
is not, as many suppose, the fruit, but the 
flower-buds, which are collected just before 
they expand. The bush grows best upon 
rough land, such as stony liill-sides, which 
are unfit for any other crop. It is propaga- 
THE CAPER PLANT. 
ted by cuttings; the portions removed in 
pruning are set out in nursery rows, and the 
next year those that have taken root are 
planted, setting them six feet apart each 
way. In autumn the stems are cut back 
near the ground, and the stools covered with 
a few inches of earth. In the spring these 
mounds are leveled, and the ground hoed or 
plowed. New and vigorous shoots are 
thrown up, and in May the first buds appear. 
The gathering, which is made every day or 
two, continues until autumn. This work is 
done by women and children, and, on ac¬ 
count of the sharp spines, is described as 
“ cruel torment ” to those engaged in it. 
The gatherings of each day are thrown into 
a cask containing salt and vinegar. The 
Capers are prepared for market by assorting 
them by means of sieves, seven different 
sizes, each with its trade name, and placing 
them in bottles with fresh vinegar. In some 
localities they are put into vinegar at once, 
no salt being used. 
The Caper is long lived, some plantations 
being a century old. The plant may be 
raised from seeds. The French writers men¬ 
tion a variety without spines, and say that it 
comes true from seed. An herb, the ‘ 1 Caper 
Spurge ” (Euphorbia Lathyris), is sometimes 
cultivated in gardens, and called the “ Caper- 
plant.” The unripe seed-pods are by some 
pickled and used as Capers. It belongs to a 
poisonous family, and it should not be used, 
as serious results may follow. 
Insect Enemies of Melon Vines. 
A correspondent in Jackson Co., Miss., 
writes us that his watermelon vines were at¬ 
tacked by the Striped-bug, and he dusted the 
plants with Paris green, largely diluted with 
flour. Although the vines have not yet set 
their fruit, he is fearful lest some poisonous 
quality be communicated to the melons, and 
wishes to know if this is possible. Enough 
of such violent poisons as Paris green may 
be used to kill the plants. That a plant to 
which poison has been applied, can take up 
enough and carry it into its circulation to 
make the fruit, the tuber (as in the case of 
the potato), or any other edible part of the 
plant, dangerous to use as food, is highly im¬ 
probable. The plant, if it takes up poison, is 
killed. Our friend states that at the time he 
applied poison to his vines, no fruit had been 
set. This being the case, we are quite sure, 
if the vines survive, that no poison will be 
found in the fruit. Small frames—boxes a 
foot square and six inches high, without top 
or bottom, and covered with mosquito-netting, 
have proved most useful. Mr. Joseph Harris, 
in his “ Gardening for Young and Old,” states 
that he has used for the Striped-bug, when 
the vines were young, a teaspoonful of Paris 
green and two tablespoonfuls of White Hel¬ 
lebore (powdered), stirred into a pailful of 
water. This he applies with a whisk-broom. 
When the vines get stronger, a tablespoonful 
of Paris green to the bucket of water may be 
used. We do not think it is possible that 
any injury to the plant can result from using 
Paris green in these quantities. 
Mr. “ W. D. B.,” Shiocton, Wis., describes 
his melon protector-box as follows : The two 
triangular frames for the ends are ten inches 
high, and the pieces connecting them about 
one foot long. All these are of split lath, 
and tacked together with lath nails. For 
the sides, the mosquito netting is stretched 
from one bottom piece over to the other, 
and tacked securely. The end triangular 
pieces are cut of the size wanted and tacked 
to the frame. The bottom pieces are pressed 
down into the soil, when the plant is cover¬ 
ed, so that no insects can get under the 
frame. A good brisk hand can make fifty 
of these little “houses” any rainy day, and 
if used carefully, they will last two years. 
The striped beetles make their appearance 
early in the season, and frequently penetrate 
through the cracks of earth made by the 
sprouting seeds, and nip off the young plants 
before they are out of the ground. 
Winter Radishes—Chinese Rose-Colored. 
The use of winter radishes in this country 
is mainly confined to our citizens of European 
birth. The Long and Round Black Spanish 
radishes are to be found in our city markets 
in winter. Though tough and exceedingly 
pungent, they are liked by many. Within a 
few years the “ California Mammoth White 
Winter Radish ” has made its appearance; 
this and some closely related varieties, known 
as “Russian Winter,” “Japan Winter,” etc., 
all produce large roots, sometimes a foot or 
more in length, and weighing as much as 
three pounds. These have been introduced 
by the way of California from China and 
Japan. The Japanese, especially, regard the 
radish as one of their most important vege¬ 
tables, and have some varieties that reach the 
enormous weight of thirty and forty pounds. 
Of all the varieties of winter radish that we 
have tried, the most acceptable is the 
“ Chinese Rose-colored Winter.” 'fliis, when 
well grown, forms a root about five inches 
long and two inches in diameter at its broad¬ 
est part, the lower end. The form, which is 
quite peculiar, is 
shown in the en¬ 
graving. The skin 
is of a bright, clear 
rose-color, and is 
marked with trans¬ 
verse lines of white. 
The flesh, though 
somewhat firm, is, 
when well grown, 
crisp and tender, 
and in this respect, 
as well as in flavor, 
more nearly resem¬ 
bles the early rad¬ 
ishes than do any 
other winter varie¬ 
ties. If properly 
kept, they have a 
freshness and crisp¬ 
ness that makes 
them welcome to all 
who like radishes. 
Winter radishes are 
cultivated in much THE “Chinese rose-color- 
,, ED WINTER” RADISH. 
the same manner 
as turnips. The seed may be sown from 
the middle of this month to the end of the 
next. If to be cultivated by hand, the rows 
may be fifteen inches apart, but for the horse 
cultivator the rows must be at the proper 
distance to suit the implement. Sow enough 
seeds to allow for the attacks of insects, and 
finally thin to four inches apart. Good cul¬ 
tivation and the necessaiy weeding must be 
given. Like other late crops, this makes its 
most rapid growth when cool nights, with 
abundant dews, follow warm days, and it 
should be encouraged by frequently stirring 
the soil. When cold weather stops the 
growth, take up the roots and place them in 
trenches as advised for parsnips, salsify, and 
other roots. They may also be preserved in 
the root cellar in boxes or barrels, mixed 
with sand or dry earth, using at least a bushel 
to every two bushels of roots. A friend of 
ours sinks a barrel in the garden and packs 
in the roots with an abundance of forest 
leaves, taking care to have a thick layer of 
leaves at the top; the barrel should have a 
good cover. Those lovers of radishes who 
have not tried the “Chinese Rose-colored 
Winter,” have a pleasing novelty in store. 
