18 
THE CULTIVATOR. 
Jan, 
“ J. H. S.” asks us to insert a plan for “ a good sub¬ 
stantial farm gate,” and in compliance with this re- 
cuest, we herewith give two plans, which, considered 
in all respects, we think, as good as any we have re¬ 
ceived. 
The one above represented, was received from 
Solomon Henkel, Esq., of Virginia, and was given in 
the Cultivator in 1841. Mr. H. considers it a ce com¬ 
plete farm gate,” and describes it as follows:—“It is 
twelve feet in length, and five feet in height, counting 
from the lower edge of the lower slat, to the upper 
edge of the upper slat. The slats are six in number, 
one inch by six inches, and twelve feet in length. The 
heel piece is three by six inches, and six feet in height. 
The middle and head pieces are three by three inches, 
and five and a half feet in height. The braces one inch 
by three inches, and nine feet in length. The slats ought 
to be made of good yellow pine, or good white oak, 
without any sap; the braces, heel piece, middle and head 
pieces, of white oak. The spring, trigger, bolt, and 
both brackets, are made of locust. The heel piece, 
middle and head pieces, have each one rivet near each 
end, so as to keep them from splitting. The braces, 
one being applied to each side of the gate, are fastened 
on by six rivets passing through the braces and slats, 
and join the heel and middle pieces by a shoulder, as 
shown in the cut. Two rivets pass through the two 
bottom slats and the springs. Two rivets confine each 
bracket, and one passes through the middle of the up¬ 
per bracket, the trigger and slat; making in all nine¬ 
teen rivets. The spaces between the slats are gradua¬ 
ted so as to leave a space of two and a half inches be¬ 
tween the two bottom slats, and seven inches'-between 
the two upper slats. The whole of the stui£ ought to 
be plainetfand painted with Venetian red. The hooks 
and hinges are make of tough iron, not very heavy. 
The hinge^ pass through the heel piece, and are secured 
by taps. The lower hinge is square, having a hole 
through it, through which the shaft ofthe hinge is passed 
up to the eye, so as keep the gate from swagging. The 
upper hook ought to be somewhat longer than the low¬ 
er ; it ought to be nine inches in length, and bearded on 
two sides, so as to keep it from drawing out. In order 
to keep the gate from being thrown off the hooks, 
it will be necessary to have a tap put on one of the 
hooks. The posts ought to be made of good white oak 
or locust; the back post ten feet long, and the front 
one nine feet. The back post ought not to be less than 
eighteen inches in diameter at the lower end, and should 
be sunk in the ground three and a half feet; well filled 
in with stone at the bottom, and another layer near the 
surface of the ground; and the balance of the hole 
should be well rammed with clay. The front post will 
be deep enough, if put into the ground three feet. The 
posts, before putting them up, should have the bark ta¬ 
ken off, and the upper ends cut to a cone. The bolt 
may be so constructed as to slide along a level leading 
i« > a mortice made on the inner side of the front post. 
Two locust pins inserted into the front post and pro- 
Tcting two inches, will answer for the gate to rest 
against. 
“ Where the gate is to be used to a field, I should 
prefer hanging it level; but where it is used to a barn- 
} ard or mouth of a lane, I should give it what we here 
Fig. 6. 
call the double swing, so that when it is thrown open, 
it will remain open without being propped; and when 
half shut will fall shut of its own weight.” 
The other cut, fig. 6, represents what is called a 
“ roller gate,” which for sections subject to great falls 
of snow, possesses some advantages over the swinging 
kind. The plan was furnished by an anonymous cor¬ 
respondent and published in the Cultivator for 1842. 
The person furnishing it says:—“ It makes a firm ami 
lasting gate, with less expense than any I have seen. 
It saves at least half an hour shovelling snow after eve¬ 
ry severe snow storm; it plays easily and is not likely to 
get out of order.” 
Description. —1 gate-post 4 by 6 inches—2, do., 
with a mortice the same as the height of the gate— 
3, 3, rails for the gate to roll upon—4, two slats nailed 
on post, four inches apart inside, to keep the gate from 
being pushed either in or out when shut—5, 5, upright 
posts, 3 by 4 inches, with a mortice in the upper end 
long enough to admit the rail and a cast-iron or hard 
wood pulley four or five inches in diameter, upon which 
the gate hangs—6, is a post set beside the fence merely 
for the purpose of morticing the rail into. It can be 
made of any size required. 
Another good plan of a gate will be found in vol. ix. 
of the Cultivator, p. 131. 
Since writing the above we have received the follow¬ 
ing from a correspondent. 
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Fig. 7. 
Mr. Tucker— The above is a plan for a light and 
durable farm gate. The slats are of pine, one inch in 
thickness and three in width. The top piece is of ash, 
three by four inches at one end, and three by three at 
the other. The head pieces are oak, three by four 
inches, one; the other three by two and one-half. The 
height is four feet and the length ten and one-balf feet. 
The latch is wood, suspended by a chain, and passes 
through the head piece. A block about one and one- 
half inches in thickness in the center, but even with the 
post at the edge, is made to catch the latch as the ga'e 
swings to and fro. The lower hinge is cast iron, with 
two branches resting upon oblong staples driven into 
the post; when the gate swings one branch supports it. 
The perpendicular braces are riveted to 
The cost is about three dollars. 
Otsego county, 1845. 
the slats. 
J. H. C 
