1872 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
168 
Bible. There is economy iu it. One man can drive 
three horses as well as two. The '• dead weight ” 
of the implement is the same in either case, and as 
it not unfreqnently happens that the power of one 
horse is expended in drawing the empty machine, 
wagon, or implement, three horses can do as much 
again real work as two. It is a great mistake to do 
heavy plowing or harrowing with two horses, and 
be compelled to let them rest frequently. Put on 
three, and keep them steadily at work. In harrow¬ 
ing, especially, a rapid gait is much more effective 
than a slow, dragging pace. Brisk, steady work, 
and fewer hours in the field, with better grooming 
in the stable, would accomplish more work with 
less fatigue to man and horse. 
Swine .—The system of feeding should be adapted 
to the breed. No pig can grow rapidly on poor food. 
A well-bred pig will grow rapidly on good food—n 
poor-bred pig will not; and this is the real essen¬ 
tial difference between them. If you starve both, 
the well-bred pig is no better than tlie other. Let 
young pigs have all they will eat and digest. The 
younger the pig, the more it will eat in proportion 
t© live-weight, and the more it. will gain in propor¬ 
tion to the food consumed. We commence to feed 
our pigs when two weeks old, placing a little trough 
where the sow can not get at it. The pigs arc 
specially fond of boiled beets or mangels, mixed 
with cooked corn-meal or fine wheat-bran. Wean 
gradually, at from six to eight weeks old. Until 
from three to four months old, the pigs can hardly be 
fed too liberally. After that, and when running 
out at pasture, if they are unmistakably getting 
too fat, ease off on the grain. As a rule, however, 
all young well-bred pigs should have a little grain 
in addition to pasture, and the slops of the house 
and dairy. Sec that the pigs have access to fresh 
water. They may not drink much, but it should 
always be provided for them, no matter how sloppy 
their food may be. Provide ashes, salt, sulphur, 
and charcoal. Keep the pens and troughs clean. 
Poultry .—Provide plenty of nest-eggs for the 
hens, and see that two do not lay in one nest or in 
the same nest with a sitting hen. See that every¬ 
thing is kept clean in the poultry-house, and that it 
is well ventilated. Whitewash frequently. Nothing 
is better for young chickens than curd, or bread 
soaked in hot water, placed outside the coop, where 
the hen can not get at it. Move the coops fre¬ 
quently, so as to keep the ground or grass clean. 
This is particularly necessary with turkeys. Avoid 
the common mistake of having the coops too 
small, and see that they are well ventilated. The 
great secret of raising ducks is to feed them all they 
will eat, half a dozen times a day, or more ! 
Corn .—Nothing is more important in raising 
corn than to secure a “good start.” It is half the 
race. A fine, mellow soil is of the first import¬ 
ance. The best way to secure this depends on cir¬ 
cumstances. Every farmer must determine this 
matter for himself. As a rule, we seldom harrow 
the land sufficiently. Corn can not thrive among 
clods. Our own practice, when planted.in hills, is 
to soak the corn from twelve to twenty-four hours 
i.n warm soft water, and dry it with plaster. By 
exercising due precautions, the same thing may be 
done when sowing with a drill. 
Corn-Fodder .—It is a great mistake to sow corn - ' 
broadcast. Sow in drills 3% feet apart, say four 
bushels of seed per acre, or a kernel about every 
inch in the row. The land must be as rich and 
mellow as possible. Use the cultivator frequently. 
Potatoes .—Peachblows and other late varieties 
should be planted early. If you are late, plant the 
Early Rose or some other variety that ripens early. 
We have had a good crop of Flukes planted the 
first week iu June. The Early Rose has a tendency 
to grow out of the ground, and should be planted 
deep, or else be well hilled up. 
Mangel- Wurzel .—All things considered, we re¬ 
gard this as the best root crop for our climate. If 
the land is rich enough, and the plants get a good 
start, the severest drouth seldom hurts the crop. 
Sow in drills three feet apart, and thin out twelve 
to fifteen inches in the rows. It requires about 
four pounds of seed per acre. The earlier the seed 
is sown tills month the better, provided the soil 
can be got in good condition. But it is better to 
wait until June, or substitute ruta-bagas, rather 
tlian to sow on poorly-prepared land. 
"Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
The spring has been so backward that many of 
the operations which ought to have been finished 
last month, will have to be done in this. Many 
plants that have usually survived the winter with 
a little protection, will probably be found to be 
injured and perhaps in some cases destroyed. It 
will often be necessary to replant, and preparations 
ought to lie made as early as possible, so that the 
trees maybe set before they have started to grow. 
Orcliai'd and Nursery. 
Planting .—If trees were properly heeled in last 
fall, they may be set several weeks later than, they 
could, if taken from the nursery rows. The plant¬ 
ing should be forwarded as fast as possible, so that 
the present season’s growth may ripen properly. 
Grafting, if done after the trees have started to j 
grow, will require considerable care, as the bark 
slips so easily, that there is danger of injuring the 
trees by peeling. 
Cultivating .—An orchard needs to be kepc plowed 
and thoroughly cultivated, in order to produce the 
best results, and during the first few years after 
planting some crop may be raised between the 
rows; potatoes or carrots are good crops for a 
y.oung orchard. 
Mulching .—Too much can not be said about pro¬ 
perly mulching young trees, especially the first 
season after they arc set: it saves a great deal of 
work in destroying weeds, and during a dry season 
will often prevent trees dying. 
Nursery Trees. — Those budded or grafted last : 
summer, will be disposed to throw out suckers from I 
the stock. These should be rubbed off, and not be 
allowed to get large enough to require cutting. 
Seeds .—Plant all seeds as soon as possible, and 
keep the beds free from weeds. Young seedlings 
should be shaded as soon as up, taking care to use 
some kind of shelter that will allow a free circula¬ 
tion of air around the plants ; a screen of laths is 
much used by nurserymen. 
Insects .—War must still be kept up against all in¬ 
jurious insects, plans for destroying which have 
been given heretofore. 
Fruit Garden. 
As the fruit garden is only an orchard on a small 
scale, the directions for planting and general cul¬ 
tivation will be the same. 
Strawberries. —Finish setting new plantations, 
and fork under the manure applied last fall. 
Cuttings of currants, gooseberries, etc., may be 
set out in rows three feet apart, with six inches 
between the cuttings. After one season’s growth 
they may be planted where they are to grow. 
Currant bushes which have become sickly and 
unsightly from the want of care, ought to have the 
old wood cut back, so as to give light and air. 
Raspberries and Blackberries .—Tie up the canes of 
last year’s growth and cut away the old bearing 
canes, if not attended to last fall. Plenty of manure 
should be spaded under between the rows. 
Grape-Vines .—If grape-vines have been left down 
until now, on account of frosts, and the shoots 
have pushed, great care must be used not to injure 
them. When vines are trained according to the 
arm system, the arms should be bent in the form 
of a curve, to allow the buds to start equally. Young 
vines, set out this season, should be allowed to 
grow only one cane. 
Layers may be made by laying the canes in 
trenches until the buds start, when they should be 
gradually covered with soil, as the shoots grow. 
Kitciiew 4iSsii-«lc«n. 
In the warmer parts of the country, the early 
erops of hardy vegetables will be ready to gather 
this month, while in the more northern States the 
ground will not be ready to plant sooner than the 
first week in May. It is best to wait until the 
greund is warm and dry, before sowing, as a few 
days can not make a great difference in the harvest. 
Asparagus may be cut from established beds, 
taking care not to injure the roots. If it is sent to 
market, it should be put up in bunches six to eight 
inches in diameter, according to the season, taking 
care to have the tops even, and when bunched, to 
cut the butts off square. 
Beans. —Do not plant the pole and Lima beans 
until all danger from frost is over. A few rows of 
bush beans may be planted early this month. 
Beets. —Sow a few rows very early, as they will 
stand considerable frost. The seed may be sown 
thickly, atnd afterwards the plants may be thinned 
and used for greens. 
Cabbage and Caidifloivers. —Set out plants from the 
liot-bed and cold-frame, and sow seed for second 
early. As soon as the seed is up, sprinkle the 
plants with air-slaked, lime, to keep off the fly. 
Plants that were set last month must be kept hoed, 
and liquid manure applied occasionally. 
Carrots. —Sow a few rows for early, and put in 
plenty of seed, as it often comes poorly. Keep the 
soil between the rows stirred often, to prevent 
the growth of weeds. 
Corn is a tender plant, and is easily injured by 
frost; therefore it. should not be planted until all 
danger from frost is past. In garden culture 
plant in drills, allowing one foot bet ween the plants. 
Cucumbers, started under glass, may be set out as 
soon as the ground is warm ; give them a little pro¬ 
tection from the sun, during the day, by means of 
a newspaper, or pieces of board set around the 
hills. Sow for pickles next month. 
Egg-Plants require more heat than most other 
vegetables, and ought not to be planted out until 
settled warm weather. 
Herbs. —Sow seeds of Sage, Sweet Marjoram, 
Summer Savory, and Thyme, etc. 
Leelcs ought to be sown early, so as to get a good 
start before the dry weather comes on. Stir the 
soil between the rows, and thin if too thick. 
Lettuce. —Sow seed for a succession, and set out 
plants from the liot-bed. 
Martynias make one of the finest pickles we have, 
and if once tried, will always be grown. Sow when 
the ground is warm, and when large enough, trans¬ 
plant into rows, two feet apart, allowing eighteen 
inches between the plants. 
Melons. —Treat as recommended for cucumbers. 
Mustard. —Sow for salad in rows, 15 inches apart. 
Nasturtiums. —Plant and give them the support of 
brush. 
Okra. —Sow the latter part of the month where 
it is to be grown. 
Onions. —Keep the beds sown last month clear of 
weeds, and loosen the soil often. 
Peas.— Brush the tall varieties and keep them 
properly hoed. Plant more seed for a succession. 
Peppers should be treated the same as egg-plants. 
Potatoes. —Hoe as soon as up ; plant for the second 
early crop. A great deal of labor may be saved, if the 
garden is large enough to allow of horse cultivation. 
Radishes. —Sow for a succession, and sprinkle with 
air-slaked lime as soon as up, if insects trouble. 
Salsify. —Sow thickly iu drills, fifteen inches apart, 
and when up, thin to three or four inches in the row. 
Spinach. —There ought to be several sowings of 
spinach for a succession. New Zealand Spinach 
should be sown in drills, and afterwards trans¬ 
planted into rows, three feet apart each way ; this 
is preferable to Spinach during the summer, as it is 
not so liable to run to seed. 
Tomatoes. —Transplant as soon as the weather 
will permit, three or four feet apart each way, 
according to the richness of the soil. The plants 
